ok, preparing for oiling mods on my 71' 360 block. ordered the 1/2" and 9/32x12" drill bits. most of my 1/2" oil passages were done way back, so wont have to spend much time there. I will be opening up the passages to the mains with the 9/32" bit, leaving the cam passages as they are and blocking passage to driver side at #1 main, but leaving tube out of pass side. oil to heads will be restricted to .060 as I spray bar oil(previously blocked). hows that? think it will be good to 7500rpm?

When I did mine, I first went through the main passages with 1/4" bit, just to clean out anything that might have been in there, then hit it with the 9/32. Call me paranoid, but to quote the instructions from McCandless, "...if you break off the bit in there, then you have real problems."
Worked for me, and made me feel a lot better about drilling on a perfectly good block!

Yes take your time and go slow. If you break a bit off you might as well junk the block because you will probably never get it out.

I've been working on my R1 block, most of the passages were already 1/2" so just a little drilling there. I've also drilled the passengers side main bearing feeds to 9/32". Still haven't made my mind up on opening up the #2 & #4 cam bearing feeds from the mains. I'm going to pick up a 1/4" set screw to plug the feed to the drivers side and also the fittings for the crossover, think I'll use a 1/4" hard line for it.

The #1 single most important mod to the SB is to port and polish the #5 cap main oil feed entry passage and I also port, polish, debur and chamfer the internals of the oil pump.

I forgot to mention that, mine is drilled and port matched, going to reuse the pump off my 408 as it's already been ported. One more thing is where the oil returns to the block from the filter, it has to make a 90* turn in the block. I blend the back of the 90 to smooth the oil flow

ok, thanks for all the info here. I will definitely take my time with this. so would it be better to spin the drill at low speed?

sorry to hijack but where did you order the bits from. need to do all of this to mine soon.

ebay. aircraft drill bits.

Just open up #2,#3,and#4 oil feeds to the mains. I don't drill #1 as it only feeds one rod. Don't do the cam bearing feeds either. If you do anything to cam bearings , drill a new 3/32" hole in cam bearing opposite the original hole, and install with new 3/32" hole lined up with feed hole. You have to install #2 and #4 cam bearings as is, because of rocker oiling on sm. blocks. 3/32" hole is plenty, even on street applications.
I would not restrict oil to rocker arms. Chryslers timed oiling works pretty well. If anything, some builders put a small groove on the #2 and #4 cam journal to give a small amount of oil to rockers full time. The old mushroom cores have the groove already on the #2 and #4 journals.
And as stated in one of the replys, the oil path from oil filter, cleaning out the 90* corner in bottom of center hole especially the short turn helps a bunch. Also the cap and pump work as suggested.

ok, 2,3,4 main oil feeds only. thanks for that. I have been spray bar oiling the top end(valve,rockers,etc) for 8+yrs with the oil passage to the heads plugged. just gonna drill a .060" hole in the plugs just for piece of mind.

Any pics of your spray bar setup?

Is there a proven way to restrict oil to the rocker shafts WITHOUT having to pull the heads to insert a restrictor?

I've wondered if a proper length spacer sleeve that has a 5/16 ID but with an OD smaller than the shaft hold down holes could work. Just insert it through the pedestal to reduce the full flow to the shafts.

Not at the moment but it was bought and installed at BLP.

I can restrict it at the block deck or in the pedestal on the indy head. That passage is already threaded.

7500? What crank?

My cap is done, and the block is too. Does anyone have pictures of the pump cleanup? I have an idea of what to do, but some guidance would be helpful.

7500 would be max shift point and may be 7000. 4" eagle forged.

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=103623&page=2 best I can do.

I don't have any experience with that crank but I've had 2 engines with the stock iron crank and at 7400 I couldn't keep rod bearings in them until I took the oil supply for the heads completely off of the cam.