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I wonder how much the difference in the A body exh manifolds would cost him?



Dave

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Not sure , the factory rated the engine 5hp less than the RR/superbee engine in 69 , everything is the same except the manifolds an the A body has a dual point instead of the single point .

My dart is about 300 lbs lighter than a B body , I did buy a set of 4.30 gears last spring

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I wonder how much the difference in the A body exh manifolds would cost him?



Dave

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Not sure , the factory rated the engine 5hp less than the RR/superbee engine in 69 , everything is the same except the manifolds an the A body has a dual point instead of the single point .

My dart is about 300 lbs lighter than a B body , I did buy a set of 4.30 gears last spring

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Welcome back John. How are things in the frozen north??

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John,

I thought something was up, its been awful quiet around here!

You may be right on the pistons being the different #. I can't verify the pistons because there is no # stamped on them. Right now the motor is sitting on a crate so I cant get a piston out. I need to do this and match it to my friends stock pistons.

My block is .040 over. I see the PAW catalog only shows a .030 for the 2316, but I'm sure I can get a .040 for it.

What about the KB-162? I know its not in the NHRA rule book, but am curious as to why they aren't considered OEM if weight and compression is OK.

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the 162's would be better , but you will have to take .020 off the deck to get them where you need them then there is the 5cc CAVERN they call valve reliefs you have to combat .

Just don't deck the block .100

did you check Summit for the .040 2315 ?

i just looked , they don't have them in stock but they list them , the negative is they aren't cheap , price has gone up about 50 bucks since i bought a set , but that was 2 years ago .

Contact DRAM and see what he can do for you .

My next set will be Diamonds at the CH I want so I don't have to cut a alot off the block , between the .018 off my block and the heads I'm using that are cut about .040 I had to take about .075 off the valley end rails to get the valley pan to fit a way I was happy with .

the goods

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With the 2316's being $400 a set now, it would be better to get a set of Diamonds if they are still around $550 and not have to do all the extra machining. And the need for custom push rods, (thought its probably better to use them anyway).

I did see a set of 40-over 2316's on ebay for $325 right now.

I'm curious on the heads. What are the typical legal tricks that could cost you so much? I'd think the only things that would be legal would be a disired CC, backcutting the valves, maybe a radius edge and a 5 angle valve job. Seems anything beyond that would be questionable on "pure stock". But I'm not expert engine builder so i'd think there could be some more little tricks.

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thats not a bad price for those pistons , if it's a buy it now then maybe you should pull the trigger , otherwise weigh the cost of all the machining required and the 2315's vs the cost of diamonds TWEAKED to exactly what you need .

As far as the heads go it's the quality of the work that you are paying for . You could just run a set down to the local parts store and get a VJ done for $275 bucks that would pass tech , but having the VJ done by someone that knows exactly how to make them flow with what is legal costs alittle more . I think PS legal is only a 3 angle VJ and that's all depends on who you are . I know of one A12 racer that upset the cart by going TOO FAST and was told his once legal 3 angle VJ no longer was legal and he had to go back to a more out the door of the factory VJ.

But then there is knowing WHICH head to use , there is a CERTIAN 906 that flows BETTER as cast than the rest ... I have a set of those that are waiting to go under the knife so to speak ...

Dwayne made 500hp with his 3 angle VJ and no porting 906's and they weren't the GOOD castings .


oh , one more thing if your engine wasn't balanced or decked at least to be SQUARE NOW is the time to deck the block , get your new pistons ( decide on diamonds or speedpros before the actual decking), then have it balanced .

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Oh John come on don't tease the guy

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But then there is knowing WHICH head to use , there is a CERTIAN 906 that flows BETTER as cast than the rest ... I have a set of those that are waiting to go under the knife so to speak ...

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I would gladly pay you Tuesday for more information on those heads today!





Dave

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Yeah John, what the F ?

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no implied profanity allowed

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I think a stripped 69 post RR with fresh air hood and the better driver side manifold might be a good race for a 383 Abody.

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Thats some good info on the heads. Looks like money well spent after seeing the work.

On the shortblock that I have, I may be better off to buy a full shortblock kit for about $625 with the pistons, rings, bearings, gaskets, etc, etc, than buy pistons and rings only. Seems the costs of the rest of the parts are very little after subtracting the pistons/rings out.

I wouldn't even chance cutting the block .100" That would be kind of crazy on a 70-HP block.

I think the best thing to do would be to have block gone over, then have the rotating assembly balanced, and have someone like Fast68plymouth build some heads that are ready to bolt on.

Still, its a $3500 investiment. But the motor would be near perfect other than tuning.

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