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I'm thinking of building my 383 HP to a Blueprint/Purestock spec. It will go in either a 70-Bee or RR 4spd.

I'm curious about how to get the 9.5 cr. with the limited pistons and CC's.

I think I have the 2315 pistons and the depth is at .105 in the whole. I can't see a 79.5cc head helping much (apx. 8.3).

How do I accomplish this? Do I deck the block .070-.080 to make it work?

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This sounds like way too much hassle since you aren't class racing.
A nice idea but why not just do the easy way(s) and go faster?

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This is where the delimma for me is. I could add stealth heads, a stock appearing aluminum intake, a comp. series TQ, shave 200#s off the car and spend about the same $$, look stock, and go faster.

But....

Then its not quite as challenging.

It would be nice to do the Purestock build, but there are no events in the KCMO area. All of them seem to be 500 miles away.

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They do have the Nostalgic race here. Chrysler Classic was coming here, but I think quit.

Last year (07), there were a couple of FAST cars. A hemi challenger from KS and I think a Yenko camaro from MO and possibly a mustang. They got rained out just as they were at the line. And that was the race I wanted to see. 08 didn't have any FAST cars. Gateway is about 250 miles from KC, which isn't so bad.

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If I really had the gonads, I'd race my A12 RR. Its an all #'s car that I'm in the process of restoring, so I can't risk it.

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LOL...might as well, you could join the other 6 or 8 that show up every year!

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If I really had the gonads, I'd race my A12 RR. Its an all #'s car that I'm in the process of restoring, so I can't risk it.

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LOL...might as well, you could join the other 6 or 8 that show up every year!

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I plan on racing my #'s 6 pack car this year. although, like you, there is no Pure Stock event anywhere near me. Oh well, I'm sure people at the local track will think I'm crazy, but what the heck, that's what these cars were built for, right!

I have no delusions of keeping up with guys like Rob, Jim, Bob and the others though.

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If I really had the gonads, I'd race my A12 RR. Its an all #'s car that I'm in the process of restoring, so I can't risk it.

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Rob, got to meet you at Atlanta in Oct 2004 when you were racing the Camaro and I was running the Bee. Nice to see you have stepped up the performance of the Yenko since then! Good Job!

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Yeah, the engine at that time was way down on compression @ 10:1 (supposed to be 11:1), and I've got it hooking a tad better now as well...but the car's still just as overweight as it was back then!

Wasn't that event a rain out the final day, maybe? I remember leaving Saturday evening for some reason...??

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Wasn't that event a rain out the final day, maybe? I remember leaving Saturday evening for some reason...??

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Well, the short block was already rebuilt when I got it in trade. A real 70 HP 383 thats .040 over. I nice rebuild with receipts, forged pistons, etc. But not balanced or anything.

If it cost 3-5k to get the motor to purestock specs, it may be just as fun and cheaper to do build basically as stock appearing and have fun at the local track.

I'm just now getting started and want to get a feel for what is needed since I've never really checked into it this deep and havn't dragged raced before, but always wanted too.

Thanks for all the input!

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Did the deck heigth from the factory have quite a bit of tolerance when they were being built?

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This sounds like way too much hassle since you aren't class racing.
A nice idea but why not just do the easy way(s) and go faster?

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This is where the delimma for me is. I could add stealth heads, a stock appearing aluminum intake, a comp. series TQ, shave 200#s off the car and spend about the same $$, look stock, and go faster.

But....

Then its not quite as challenging.

It would be nice to do the Purestock build, but there are no events in the KCMO area. All of them seem to be 500 miles away.

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The shortblock isn't the expensive part , having the HEADS done to be PURESTOCK LEGAL IS the expensive part .

the purestock drags is 800 plus miles one way for me , I'd love it top ONLY be 500 miles away , then maybe I would actually go again ...

But I'd have to have my car together first

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i'm not really sure how you'd end up with a set of TRW L2315's down the hole .100+, unless the block was MUCH taller than the 9.98" spec.

as i recall, i decked my block around .035 to get the pistons to .018 above the block(crank stroked to 3.388).

based on your current deck clearance, assuming a typical BB OE chamber volume of 88cc's, and using a steel shim head gasket.....you'd be at about 7.8cr right now.

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the purestock drags is 800 plus miles one way for me , I'd love it top ONLY be 500 miles away , then maybe I would actually go again ...

But I'd have to have my car together first

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try 3,000 miles!

BTW, I was wondering where you got to!

What's so expensive with the heads? milling, decent valves and springs and a good 3 angle valve job, right? What am I missing?


Dave

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I would think you could get a 383 to go into the 12s in the right car on a razor tune

I wish there were more guys running them

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I would think you could get a 383 to go into the 12s in the right car on a razor tune

I wish there were more guys running them

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Tom,

I think JohnRR's Dart might be the perfect car for it as it is a heck of a lot lighter than my tank. (I would think about 400 to 500 lbs lighter)
Like you said build a spec'ed 383 and throw some gear in it (4:30's or 4:56's ) and a low, low 13's maybe a 12 would be a possibility.

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I wonder how much the difference in the A body exh manifolds would cost him?

You've done a great job with yours IMO Andy, especially considering the stock bore, relatively low compression and bone stock cam.

Dave

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Yeah John, tell us what is so expensive about the heads? Just stock heads right?

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I wonder how much the difference in the A body exh manifolds would cost him?



Dave

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Not sure , the factory rated the engine 5hp less than the RR/superbee engine in 69 , everything is the same except the manifolds an the A body has a dual point instead of the single point .

My dart is about 300 lbs lighter than a B body , I did buy a set of 4.30 gears last spring

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I wonder how much the difference in the A body exh manifolds would cost him?



Dave

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Not sure , the factory rated the engine 5hp less than the RR/superbee engine in 69 , everything is the same except the manifolds an the A body has a dual point instead of the single point .

My dart is about 300 lbs lighter than a B body , I did buy a set of 4.30 gears last spring

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Welcome back John. How are things in the frozen north??

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John,

I thought something was up, its been awful quiet around here!

You may be right on the pistons being the different #. I can't verify the pistons because there is no # stamped on them. Right now the motor is sitting on a crate so I cant get a piston out. I need to do this and match it to my friends stock pistons.

My block is .040 over. I see the PAW catalog only shows a .030 for the 2316, but I'm sure I can get a .040 for it.

What about the KB-162? I know its not in the NHRA rule book, but am curious as to why they aren't considered OEM if weight and compression is OK.

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the 162's would be better , but you will have to take .020 off the deck to get them where you need them then there is the 5cc CAVERN they call valve reliefs you have to combat .

Just don't deck the block .100

did you check Summit for the .040 2315 ?

i just looked , they don't have them in stock but they list them , the negative is they aren't cheap , price has gone up about 50 bucks since i bought a set , but that was 2 years ago .

Contact DRAM and see what he can do for you .

My next set will be Diamonds at the CH I want so I don't have to cut a alot off the block , between the .018 off my block and the heads I'm using that are cut about .040 I had to take about .075 off the valley end rails to get the valley pan to fit a way I was happy with .

the goods

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With the 2316's being $400 a set now, it would be better to get a set of Diamonds if they are still around $550 and not have to do all the extra machining. And the need for custom push rods, (thought its probably better to use them anyway).

I did see a set of 40-over 2316's on ebay for $325 right now.

I'm curious on the heads. What are the typical legal tricks that could cost you so much? I'd think the only things that would be legal would be a disired CC, backcutting the valves, maybe a radius edge and a 5 angle valve job. Seems anything beyond that would be questionable on "pure stock". But I'm not expert engine builder so i'd think there could be some more little tricks.

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thats not a bad price for those pistons , if it's a buy it now then maybe you should pull the trigger , otherwise weigh the cost of all the machining required and the 2315's vs the cost of diamonds TWEAKED to exactly what you need .

As far as the heads go it's the quality of the work that you are paying for . You could just run a set down to the local parts store and get a VJ done for $275 bucks that would pass tech , but having the VJ done by someone that knows exactly how to make them flow with what is legal costs alittle more . I think PS legal is only a 3 angle VJ and that's all depends on who you are . I know of one A12 racer that upset the cart by going TOO FAST and was told his once legal 3 angle VJ no longer was legal and he had to go back to a more out the door of the factory VJ.

But then there is knowing WHICH head to use , there is a CERTIAN 906 that flows BETTER as cast than the rest ... I have a set of those that are waiting to go under the knife so to speak ...

Dwayne made 500hp with his 3 angle VJ and no porting 906's and they weren't the GOOD castings .


oh , one more thing if your engine wasn't balanced or decked at least to be SQUARE NOW is the time to deck the block , get your new pistons ( decide on diamonds or speedpros before the actual decking), then have it balanced .

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Oh John come on don't tease the guy

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But then there is knowing WHICH head to use , there is a CERTIAN 906 that flows BETTER as cast than the rest ... I have a set of those that are waiting to go under the knife so to speak ...

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I would gladly pay you Tuesday for more information on those heads today!





Dave

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Yeah John, what the F ?

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no implied profanity allowed

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I think a stripped 69 post RR with fresh air hood and the better driver side manifold might be a good race for a 383 Abody.

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Thats some good info on the heads. Looks like money well spent after seeing the work.

On the shortblock that I have, I may be better off to buy a full shortblock kit for about $625 with the pistons, rings, bearings, gaskets, etc, etc, than buy pistons and rings only. Seems the costs of the rest of the parts are very little after subtracting the pistons/rings out.

I wouldn't even chance cutting the block .100" That would be kind of crazy on a 70-HP block.

I think the best thing to do would be to have block gone over, then have the rotating assembly balanced, and have someone like Fast68plymouth build some heads that are ready to bolt on.

Still, its a $3500 investiment. But the motor would be near perfect other than tuning.

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