Should this have some plumbing coming out the bottom like newer Edelbrocks or should it be this way? It came off this way. Thanks pete
oops. Cant add pics from my cell? Will upload soon. Basically no piping coming out from bottom holes.

has to have an emulsion tube and an idle jet tube.

So this is not good I assume. Maybe one tube out of large hole called acceleration tube? Neither had one??

i don't see a secondary discharge nozzle,...? or a secondary well tube,...?

This is my first old afb so I didnt realize any issue when i took it apart. Everything was crusted but I dont know if someone previously modified it. If it is wrong i dont think there is a source for replacements. Bummer.

see if you can find a "parts" edelbrock 1405 and use the secondary clusters out of it.

Wow, thanks for the tip. I did not know they were interchangeable. I have a 750 performer on my car now. I wonder if that would work?

the clusters are the brains. the carb body's on the majority of those afb's are the same. chrysler had a couple of versions that were a little different. what you have is of the more conventional style. anyhow, the 750 clusters should screw in and work. they're basically the same carb. the 750's are jetted quit a bit richer than a stock carb but that's easy to deal with. the only hitch would be the air bleed sizes but i don't think thats a major problem.

Thanks. I will give it a shot. Don't really have another choice. I have an A/F meter so I will know if it isn't right. Just put an ad in engines want ad section for junk Eddy!

I was told by the seller of my rebuild kit that some AFB secondary venturis did not have down tubes. Has anyone else seen this?

I'd have to look at my stash of carbs, but AFBs came in two styles. Those with a weighted air valve in the secondary and those without. In my experience RB motors had carbs without the air valve. The secondary clusters were completely different on the two styles.

Very possible, I'd try the carb first before swapping parts about. Carter made several hundred different AFB's for OEM applications over time.

i don't know how they could draw fuel out of the well without a tube. pm 62maxwagon for some details. he has parts and refurbishes carbs. he'll probably know.

Tube is mostly for emulsion since it has holes in the sides, the vacuum from the booster venturi would have no problem sucking the fuel up from the well.

how does the carb siphon fuel if nothings in the fuel supply? can you sip a coke thru a straw without the straw in the coke? maybe i'm missing something here and somebodys going to have to draw me a picture?

The tube is the hole in the casting. The brass tubes you think are siphoning fuel are not there for that purpose. They are there to mix air with the fuel (emulsion). To use your Coke analogy it's like sipping Coke with a hole in your straw.

Gotcha, so do you think this carb came stock without them? Obviously there is no way I will get the original Carter diagram of the 4327s..

If anyone has a junk 1967 Carter 4326 or 4327 AFB sitting around that they would split and check for me, I will find a monk that will grant you total consciousness on your deathbed...

I forget, it has been almost 30 years since I fooled with an old AFB, I run the E brock version these days. Someone with the FSM for your year/model might be able to look at the carb section and answer.

I wouldn't , you'll be potentially transferring the reason that particular carb is a POS to the replacement carb.

????

Most on here dont like the eddy performer 750. Mine actually runs fine. I mean the 440 is slow but starts fine and stumble gone after tuning distributor. Hopefully the 4327s gives ita little more giddyup. Also scored a ch4b intake to swap out the stock iron.
I hhave to admit that i banged up the finish of the carb. After gunk soak it was clean but still carbon . Read motorcycle thread about cleaning carbs in oxyclean. Pics looked great. As as someone with a chemistry background I should have known better. It oxidized and now has a blackish smut as they call it inside and out. I am just going to let it go and hope all is well. Too hard to rub off.

I'm with Lew, not sure how it would work without the tubes.

Here is a secondary booster from one of my 4327S carbs.

"....I will find a monk that will grant you total consciousness on your deathbed..." Do I really want that????????

i really appreciate you posting that. I guess the ones on my core were messed with or the tubes were crusted in the base and I missed it but I doubt all four tubes would have come out. Bummer!

Regarding total consciousness, Bill Murray got it in Caddyshack. "So Ive got that going for me, which is nice."

...when Chevy Chase was playing through Bill's apartment???

Exactly. Cannonball comin at ya. I could use a jug of wine and a j right now. Well the old me would have enjoyed it.

So is the new Performer 800 a better carb for my mild 440 then the eddy 1411? If i cant get my afb right i will be looking for something to top my new c4hb.

I looked at a 4327 I have apart, no tubes on these either, they look like the ones in your picture. 4327 dated H6, still had the tag on the screw, car was pretty original.

I would be real hesitant to put parts from an Eddy into a real AFB.

That is interesting. Mine is a little different in a couple of other aspects as well, when I look closely.

OK, thanks. Now I am really confused. Mine had tag as well (dated A6) and was very difficult to get apart. I would be naive to think that it had never been apart.
The guy from Mike's Carbs says some don't have it and says "It will simply pass through the hole in the venturi from accelerator pump pressure."
I will slap it together and give it a go.

I got the carb together last night after a few rookie issues and will try to run it this week depending on honey do list and early Bronco projects. First was excited to get top plate on and figure out pump connections. Thankfully I took a lot of pics. Look in parts tub and see pump nozzle jet. Doh!
The stock needle and seat are so different then new. Stock seat has several holes around it and they sit lower than the new one. I thought about keeping original but decided against it as they do wear.
I thought the float is supposed to be parallel to top plate at 7/16", but it is not with new seat. I would have had to do major bending on old floats to get that so I got it to 7/16" near end of float, yet closer to 5/16" near seat. Hopefully not an issue. The drop was easy to do.
Anyway, wish me luck. Honestly, between the old parts and my skills, I will be surprised if it runs well. I am going to try it on my current manifold before Inswapnin the ch4b, just to eliminate an additional factor..