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#1783707 - 03/19/15 01:37 PM 1970 Roadrunner Project
cataclysm80 Offline
master

Registered: 10/24/06
Posts: 4160
Loc: Florida
Hello everybody, I haven't been on here in quite a while. It's good to see some familiar names.

I'm an E body guy, but I've had this 70 Roadrunner around here for years, and it's time to do something with it, either fix it or sell it. Leaning towards fixing it at the moment, but haven't decided yet.
FC7 In Violet (Plum Crazy) with white interior, 383, 4 speed with console, Air Grabber Hood with V21 blackout and a go wing spoiler. Woodgrain steering wheel. It's a stereo 8 track car, but the stereo's missing so I probably won't put that back anyway.
Not even close to drivable as is, and needs a full resto.

I haven't been focused on cars much in probably 4 or 5 years. Are parts easier to get now? What's changed? Any tips?

To start off with, Where's the best place to get AMD sheetmetal?
Need...
whole front floor
drivers side rear seat foot well
trunk floor
both trunk extensions
cowl (not rusty just major dent from previous fender bender)
filler panel (rear window)
both quarter panels

I saw that some of that stuff was out of stock on the website. Are they going to make more? When? (I'm not necessarily in a hurry)

Do the side scoops fit well onto the AMD quarter panels? Did everything else fit pretty good also?

I've seen some reproduction grills around recently. Not sure where they come from, Dales Cuda Shop maybe? How is the fit and quality of those? They look way better than some of the fiberglass junk I've seen.

Are there any parts which are particularly hard to find that I should check the car for to make sure that I have them before I start the project?

Any feedback (or just a Hello) is appreciated!

Tav

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#1783708 - 03/19/15 03:32 PM Re: 1970 Roadrunner Project [Re: cataclysm80]
mopar346 Offline
Let me tell ya about fat chicks!

Registered: 07/05/07
Posts: 11671
Loc: Florida
Howdy and welcome back, sounds like a nice Runner and I would love a shot at it if you decide to bail in a year or so. I just bought an RT and have to get over that. Depending on where you are in Florida I have an AMD connection that will cheat you right when you are ready, can usually even get delivery if you are patient.
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#1783709 - 03/19/15 04:06 PM Re: 1970 Roadrunner Project [Re: mopar346]
67vertman Offline
super stock

Registered: 11/06/06
Posts: 840
Loc: California USA
Quote:

"I have an AMD connection that will cheat you right"




What are friends for, if you can "Cheat" them.

Sounds like a nice car!

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#1783710 - 03/19/15 06:38 PM Re: 1970 Roadrunner Project [Re: 67vertman]
fc7_plumcrazy Offline
master

Registered: 10/14/06
Posts: 4071
Loc: Germany
Hi,

sounds like a nice car.
Can you show us a pic of the fender tag, please?

Carsten

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#1783711 - 03/23/15 02:50 PM Re: 1970 Roadrunner Project [Re: 67vertman]
cataclysm80 Offline
master

Registered: 10/24/06
Posts: 4160
Loc: Florida
Quote:

Quote:

"I have an AMD connection that will cheat you right"




What are friends for, if you can "Cheat" them.






Well, I'm probably not very interested in being cheated, but thanks for the offer.

I thought about just driving up there to AMD and picking everything up in person. AMD said some of the parts I'm looking for were out of stock, but hopefully would be available around the end of April.

Tav

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#1783712 - 03/23/15 02:54 PM Re: 1970 Roadrunner Project [Re: fc7_plumcrazy]
cataclysm80 Offline
master

Registered: 10/24/06
Posts: 4160
Loc: Florida
Quote:

Hi,

sounds like a nice car.
Can you show us a pic of the fender tag, please?

Carsten





I don't have a pic of the tag handy, but here's a decode...

Fender Tag
V6Y V8W 26 END
J25 L31 M21 M85 R22 V21
FC7 A01 A36 C16 C55 G33
FC7 P6XW EW1 408 117317
E63 D21 RM23 N0G 217XXX

Fender tag is read left to right, bottom to top

E63 – 383 cubic inch orange 8 cylinder single four barrel carburetor 335 horse power
D21 – 4 speed manual transmission floor shift A833 with pistol grip shifter
R – Plymouth B body based on Belvedere/Satellite platform
M - Roadrunner
23 – 2 door hard top
N - 383 cubic inch 8 cylinder single four barrel carburetor (engine family B)
0 - 1970
G – St Louis Missouri assembly plant
217XXX – VIN sequence number
FC7 – body paint color In-Violet (same as Dodge Plum Crazy)
P6XW –premium white and black interior with white vinyl bucket seats
EW1 – white upper door frame paint
408 – Scheduled production date April 8, 1970
117317 – vehicle order number
FC7 – roof paint color In-Violet (same as Dodge Plum Crazy)
A01 – light package (glove box lamp, ash tray lamp, trunk lamp, etc.)
A36 – performance axle package 8.75 heavy duty rear axle with 3.55 ratio sure grip differential,
maximum cooling 7 bade torque drive fan and hemi suspension
C16 - center console with wood grain panel
C55 - bucket seats
G33 – left hand outside remote control chrome mirror
J25 - 3 speed windshield wipers
L31 – hood mounted turn signal lights
M21 – drip rail mouldings over windows (all cars had this)
M85 – bumper guards
R22 – 10 watt AM radio with stereo 8 track player
V21 – black performance hood stripe
V6Y – longitudinal tape sport stripe (roadrunner on fender with dust trail going into side scoop)
V8W – white transverse tape sport stripes (horizontal white stripe on tail panel above lights)
26 – 26 inch radiator
END – end of code list, built on plant’s only assembly line








The fender tag only includes some of the options that a car came with (engine transmission paint trim and anything that required drilling extra holes on the assembly line). The car has other options that are indicated on the broadcast sheet. Most cars no longer have their broadcast sheet as it was supposed to be thrown away on the assembly line. Sometimes you can find it inside a seat above a headliner or behind the glove box.

Options this car had that would have been on the broadcast sheet are:
All tinted windows (this was normal for cars with AC, but this is not an air conditioned car)
Rallye dash (all roadrunners, GTXs and Superbirds had this)
Wood grain steering wheel
Day/Night rearview mirror

Options the car did NOT have that have been added by previous owner:
N96 Air grabber hood (this came off of a 1970 440 GTX, we tracked down the correct air cleaner to mate with the 383 engine)
J81 rear spoiler (this is a 1970 only Go-Wing spoiler, different from the 1971 Gull-Wing)

The original engine and transmission have been replaced with a 400 cubic inch engine and big block 727 automatic transmission. I have a replacement freshly built 383 engine and the correct four speed manual transmission with 1970 only aluminum bellhousing. Still need to find a pistol grip shifter handle and center console.

There were 7,993 1970 Roadrunner hard tops with a 383 and a manual 4 speed transmission sold.

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#1783713 - 03/23/15 10:41 PM Re: 1970 Roadrunner Project [Re: mopar346]
mopar346 Offline
Let me tell ya about fat chicks!

Registered: 07/05/07
Posts: 11671
Loc: Florida
Quote:

...that will cheat you right...




Sorry but that is a common slang saying around here. He runs up to AMD every week or so to pick up stuff so it has always been convenient for us to deal with him and he is always well less than retain and has been known to get scratch and dent stuff regularly that has minor dings.
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#1783714 - 03/25/15 01:32 PM Re: 1970 Roadrunner Project [Re: mopar346]
cataclysm80 Offline
master

Registered: 10/24/06
Posts: 4160
Loc: Florida
Which part of Florida is he in? I'm north of Orlando.

Tav

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#1783715 - 03/26/15 08:02 PM Re: 1970 Roadrunner Project [Re: cataclysm80]
mopar346 Offline
Let me tell ya about fat chicks!

Registered: 07/05/07
Posts: 11671
Loc: Florida
He's actually just inside of Georgia in Moultrie. I live just South of the line north of Tallahassee. I travel a bit and coudl probably work out delivery if your in no hurry. In fact I think I am gonna have the AAR at Olde Town next week end if your around.
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#1876633 - 07/23/15 02:18 PM Re: 1970 Roadrunner Project [Re: cataclysm80]
cataclysm80 Offline
master

Registered: 10/24/06
Posts: 4160
Loc: Florida
Did you have your AAR at the Mopars at Old Town show?
I think it was around April 4th.
I was there, which car was yours? (color?)

Tav

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#1876634 - 07/23/15 02:19 PM Re: 1970 Roadrunner Project [Re: cataclysm80]
cataclysm80 Offline
master

Registered: 10/24/06
Posts: 4160
Loc: Florida
Well, I've decided to keep the Roadrunner.
Have it mostly taken apart now.
I just ordered the AMD sheetmetal.
It should be here next week, and then I can start on the metal work.

Tav

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#1877362 - 07/24/15 03:03 PM Re: 1970 Roadrunner Project [Re: cataclysm80]
Silver70 Offline
I Live Here

Registered: 02/01/03
Posts: 17638
Loc: Rust Belt, SW PA
Amd 70 rr quarters are pretty good. Nice heavy great fitting trunk floors also. Extensions are good. Never used there full front floors. Now the cowl I used, was not as wide front to back as factory. I had to widen it almost half an inch. Next time I would go with a used oem one. The deck filler from amd is even worse... the ones you can get for 60ish or so elsewhere fit a lot better.
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68 Road Runner, 69 Belvedere, 71 Challenger Vert
340 barracuda, 01 Ram CTD, 95 Ram, 04 Ram, 85 Daytona turbo Z
99 Trans Am, 66 GTO, 06 Magnum RT AWD

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#1879375 - 07/27/15 04:34 PM Re: 1970 Roadrunner Project [Re: cataclysm80]
cataclysm80 Offline
master

Registered: 10/24/06
Posts: 4160
Loc: Florida
Thanks a BUNCH for those tips! I'll be sure to look over those areas real good before install.

I was wondering how well the side scoops would fit on the AMD quarters.

If anyone else has experiences with these panels, I'd love to hear it. smile

Tav

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#1879377 - 07/27/15 04:36 PM Re: 1970 Roadrunner Project [Re: cataclysm80]
cataclysm80 Offline
master

Registered: 10/24/06
Posts: 4160
Loc: Florida
Does anyone recall where the body numbers are found on this car? I'd like to make sure not to disturb them if possible. I seem to recall something about the driver side trunk lip?

Tav

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#1880876 - 07/29/15 02:01 PM Re: 1970 Roadrunner Project [Re: cataclysm80]
70gtx440dana Offline
master

Registered: 12/27/03
Posts: 2678
Loc: Lansing, MI
Originally Posted By cataclysm80
Does anyone recall where the body numbers are found on this car? I'd like to make sure not to disturb them if possible. I seem to recall something about the driver side trunk lip?

Tav


DS trumk lip and radiator support.
_________________________
70 Road Runner 383-4 4 speed FJ5 & black guts 70 Charger R/T 440-4 4 speed FJ5 & white guts

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#1985091 - 01/06/16 04:54 PM Re: 1970 Roadrunner Project [Re: 70gtx440dana]
cataclysm80 Offline
master

Registered: 10/24/06
Posts: 4160
Loc: Florida
Originally Posted By 70gtx440dana
Originally Posted By cataclysm80
Does anyone recall where the body numbers are found on this car? I'd like to make sure not to disturb them if possible. I seem to recall something about the driver side trunk lip?

Tav


DS trumk lip and radiator support.



Found the numbers, thanks!

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#1985119 - 01/06/16 05:30 PM Re: 1970 Roadrunner Project [Re: cataclysm80]
cataclysm80 Offline
master

Registered: 10/24/06
Posts: 4160
Loc: Florida
It's about time I put some pictures in this thread.

Let's see if I can remember how...

There used to be an image loader down here somewhere.
I guess that's been lost in the intervening years.
I hope my old threads still have their pics!
Looks like we have to link to externally hosted images now.
Let's try this...



Edited by cataclysm80 (01/06/16 05:51 PM)

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#1985143 - 01/06/16 05:55 PM Re: 1970 Roadrunner Project [Re: cataclysm80]
cataclysm80 Offline
master

Registered: 10/24/06
Posts: 4160
Loc: Florida
OK, that took a few tries, but seems to be working.
I dislike Photobucket and all it's junk advertising.
I miss the old photo uploader we had here. It had image size restrictions, but it was easy to use.


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#1985146 - 01/06/16 05:58 PM Re: 1970 Roadrunner Project [Re: cataclysm80]
cataclysm80 Offline
master

Registered: 10/24/06
Posts: 4160
Loc: Florida







There's already a new rocker panel, frame rail, & crossmember in this picture.



Edited by cataclysm80 (01/06/16 06:00 PM)

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#1985149 - 01/06/16 06:03 PM Re: 1970 Roadrunner Project [Re: cataclysm80]
cataclysm80 Offline
master

Registered: 10/24/06
Posts: 4160
Loc: Florida








Edited by cataclysm80 (01/06/16 06:09 PM)

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#1985202 - 01/06/16 07:23 PM Re: 1970 Roadrunner Project [Re: cataclysm80]
David_in_St_Croi Offline
top fuel

Registered: 05/21/03
Posts: 2351
Loc: St. Croix, US Virgin Islands
In the end how well did the AMD metal work out? Is that an AMD cowl and rear filler panel? I believe those pieces were the ones mentioned as not fitting for someone. Our car, also 70 RR but a coupe (RM71) pretty much needs all the metal you are putting on it, along with front wings. Will probably bondo up the metal ones and make composite ones. Already have made a mold for a carbon fibre bonnet. Looking good by the way.

Have you considered putting in frame connectors while you are in there. Now would be so much easier.
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#1985353 - 01/06/16 10:41 PM Re: 1970 Roadrunner Project [Re: cataclysm80]
NANKET Offline
master

Registered: 12/13/03
Posts: 3743
Loc: northwest USA
Well you have been busy, car is looking good. Neat car with the colors and options on the tag. Please leave the surf board off the trunk. 8 track is the only radio in your car to have 3 dash speakers, so it would be just wrong to leave it out of the car. I like the N96 added.

I was so close to buying an awesome 70, and the added wing on a dark metallic color killed it for me as the Guy had no extra paint for it. Same deal as this, car was great with what the tag showed, didn't need any add-ons.

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#1985441 - 01/07/16 07:06 AM Re: 1970 Roadrunner Project [Re: NANKET]
mopar4ya Offline
master

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 2517
Loc: western PA
It don't look like you had much for bracing for having the car cut that far apart. Did it not flex??. I've never had a car that far apart all at one time, always thought it would bow like crazy. Looks like a great car to do !.

Dan.
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#1992401 - 01/17/16 12:18 AM Re: 1970 Roadrunner Project [Re: NANKET]
cataclysm80 Offline
master

Registered: 10/24/06
Posts: 4160
Loc: Florida
Originally Posted By NANKET
Please leave the surf board off the trunk.


I understand where you're coming from there, but I'm building this car for my dad, and he likes it, so it will stay. It was a factory option, and it came with the car. Our trunk lid was rusted, so we had to find another trunk lid, but unless he changes his mind for some reason, it will be drilled for the spoiler.
I'm still trying to talk him out of reinstalling the traction bars that came on it. We'll see how it goes.

Originally Posted By NANKET
8 track is the only radio in your car to have 3 dash speakers, so it would be just wrong to leave it out of the car.


We're taking a few liberties with the restoration. At the moment, the plan is a modern aftermarket radio that he can plug his MP3 player into. Glad to have the stereo speakers for it in the dash already.
We'll probably have steel belted radial tires and electronic ignition also.
Seriously considering putting factory disc brakes on the front as well. The car WILL be driven.
No air conditioning or cruise control though. You have to draw the line somewhere. smile

Originally Posted By NANKET
I like the N96 added.


Thanks, we like it too. Unfortunately, that original 440 GTX air grabber hood was to rusty on the underside for us to use. We really wanted it though, so we picked up a new air grabber hood from AMD.

Tav


Edited by cataclysm80 (01/17/16 12:20 AM)

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#1992416 - 01/17/16 01:56 AM Re: 1970 Roadrunner Project [Re: mopar4ya]
cataclysm80 Offline
master

Registered: 10/24/06
Posts: 4160
Loc: Florida
Originally Posted By mopar4ya
It don't look like you had much for bracing for having the car cut that far apart. Did it not flex??. I've never had a car that far apart all at one time, always thought it would bow like crazy. Looks like a great car to do !.

Dan.


Thanks, Nope, not really much bracing unless you count the 2x4 boards and painters tape that were holding up the tail panel. laugh
Flex wasn't really a problem. Yes, stuff can move if you cut off enough supporting pieces, and sometimes that's necessary to replace a part. You take a LOT of measurements from a lot of different places, and write it all down. I can't count how many times the different panels were on and off for test fitting. We even had the glass in and out to check fitment. If you look at the pics, the gray primered car next to mine is also a 70 roadrunner, and that was handy for double checking measurements, along with the factory service manual measurements.
I did a lot of work on my E bodies, but I'm overly busy running my business now and have enlisted the help of a good friend to do most of the work on this Roadrunner. He's done full restorations on 16 B bodies that I can think of, and I'm sure there's more that I don't know about. That's not counting the E bodies and side projects he's done. He did a 68 Hemi Charger that took 1st place in class at the 2013 Mopar Nats. There's 4 B bodies in his shop right now. His experience in knowing which pieces to remove and in what order was invaluable. We didn't remove the torsion bar crossmember until after the rocker panel was done. He has a good straight K frame that he uses just for helping to align & install front frame rails. (my K frame was a little bent when the car was hit behind the drivers front wheel, which is why the frame rail, inner fender, firewall, cowl, & rocker needed replaced. It didn't look to bad until we got the fenders off and started measuring) He keeps jigs around for stuff like this.
If it were a convertible, he would have put some additional bracing across the door openings.

Tav


Edited by cataclysm80 (01/17/16 01:58 AM)

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#1992420 - 01/17/16 02:23 AM Re: 1970 Roadrunner Project [Re: David_in_St_Croi]
cataclysm80 Offline
master

Registered: 10/24/06
Posts: 4160
Loc: Florida
Originally Posted By David_in_St_Croi
In the end how well did the AMD metal work out? Is that an AMD cowl and rear filler panel? I believe those pieces were the ones mentioned as not fitting for someone.



Yes, this is an AMD cowl and filler panel. I already had them ordered when I heard about the problems Silver70 had. That's what I get for not logging in to Moparts very often.
Overall, I'd say they fit great. Sheet metal really needs to be worked and fit to the car, and having someone with a lot of sheet metal experience help out is beneficial. Even NOS sheet metal doesn’t always fall into place. It's not like a bolt on part that just fits every time. With sheet metal, sometimes you have to bang it, bend it, and tweak it to really get it to fit just right.
At first, we thought that the gap between the passenger side of the cowl and the fender / door would be a little to wide, but it came out fine. No modifications needed. Here's a picture, but this isn't the final adjustment of the fender or door, they've been moved since we checked. When we're done, we'll have nice even gaps between all the panels.


The filler panel took more work to fit it to the quarters and get a nice even gap all the way around the trunk lid. In the end, the drivers front corner (by the glass) stuck up about 1/16th of an inch, but everything else fit perfect, so we made a little cut, pushed the window lip down into place and welded it up where we wanted it. Here's a pic.
If I recall correctly, we had to make a little cut like this on the right trunk extension panel also, but all the other panels fit good after some work getting everything aligned.


Tav


Edited by cataclysm80 (01/17/16 01:09 PM)

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#1992424 - 01/17/16 03:06 AM Re: 1970 Roadrunner Project [Re: David_in_St_Croi]
cataclysm80 Offline
master

Registered: 10/24/06
Posts: 4160
Loc: Florida
Originally Posted By David_in_St_Croi

Have you considered putting in frame connectors while you are in there. Now would be so much easier.


If we wanted frame connectors, I agree that this would be the time. We aren't planning on using them though.

We did get all 4 factory style torque boxes & all of the Hemi suspension reinforcement plates.

We also chose to install the XV racing lower radiator support brace. It's a square tubing piece that connects the front frame rails together under the radiator and behind the radiator support. It welds in solid and may be a good place to connect to if my dad ever decides to tow the vehicle cross country behind his remodeled 1971 Silver Eagle bus.

Tav


Edited by cataclysm80 (01/17/16 03:09 AM)

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#1999396 - 01/26/16 08:16 PM Re: 1970 Roadrunner Project [Re: cataclysm80]
David_in_St_Croi Offline
top fuel

Registered: 05/21/03
Posts: 2351
Loc: St. Croix, US Virgin Islands
Hi Tav,

Thanks for the replies and especially the pictures. For the first time I understand how the lower rear window corner sheetmetal goes together. AMD lists these extra pieces and it was unclear to me if they were patch pieces or required. Now I see how it goes together.

Please post more pictures as you are able. I do not have another 70 on a rotisserie next to my car smile so photo sequences like you posted are invaluable. We actually have the only 70 RR on the island so no references, other than a completely rusted out Sport Satellite (roof sitting on the floor pan lever of rust) under a tree that might be gone now.

Encouraging news on the AMD as I stated earlier about needing all those bits.

Best regards, Dave


Edited by David_in_St_Croi (01/26/16 08:18 PM)
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#2379456 - 09/30/17 04:49 PM Re: 1970 Roadrunner Project [Re: cataclysm80]
cataclysm80 Offline
master

Registered: 10/24/06
Posts: 4160
Loc: Florida
Originally Posted By cataclysm80

I've seen some reproduction grills around recently. Not sure where they come from,



The reproduction grills come from OER on the west coast.
They're all argent, so I had to paint it, but other than that it fit great.


Edited by cataclysm80 (09/30/17 06:51 PM)

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#2379515 - 09/30/17 07:00 PM Re: 1970 Roadrunner Project [Re: cataclysm80]
cataclysm80 Offline
master

Registered: 10/24/06
Posts: 4160
Loc: Florida
Well, Photobucket never was a very good website, and now they've gotten rid of all the pics I posted in this thread.

I'll post new pics to make up for it.

Here's what it looked like when I brought it home in November 2004.


Attachments
DSC00045.JPG

DSC00047.JPG

DSC00046.JPG

DSC00051.JPG




Edited by cataclysm80 (09/30/17 07:08 PM)

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#2379516 - 09/30/17 07:02 PM Re: 1970 Roadrunner Project [Re: cataclysm80]
cataclysm80 Offline
master

Registered: 10/24/06
Posts: 4160
Loc: Florida
November 2004


Attachments
DSC00052.JPG

DSC00050.JPG

DSC00053.JPG

DSC00048.JPG



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#2379517 - 09/30/17 07:03 PM Re: 1970 Roadrunner Project [Re: cataclysm80]
cataclysm80 Offline
master

Registered: 10/24/06
Posts: 4160
Loc: Florida
November 2004


Attachments
DSC00049.JPG



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#2379519 - 09/30/17 07:07 PM Re: 1970 Roadrunner Project [Re: cataclysm80]
cataclysm80 Offline
master

Registered: 10/24/06
Posts: 4160
Loc: Florida
July 2005

My neighbor down the road has a 1973 Challenger. It was his first car, and he's had it forever. His dad bought it for him. He doesn't have a very high opinion of the car, but he keeps it for sentimental reasons. It's basically rotting into the ground. He's not very interested in ever fixing it, but he also refuses to sell it.
He was having some problems with code enforcement for having to much junk in his yard. Knowing that I was playing with old Mopars, he came to tell me that he had 340 engine with a 727 trans attached (not from his car), and it was headed to the scrap yard unless I wanted it. I went right over and hauled it home. I wanted the small block 727 for my Challenger, and figured it wouldn't hurt to have a spare 340 laying around since it was free. Out of curiosity, I decoded the numbers to see what it was out of. I don't recall exactly at the moment, but I think the engine & trans matched each other and were out of a 1971 vehicle.

Not long afterward, I received a phone call from another old friend who is an engine builder. He was looking for a 340 block, and was having trouble finding one to build. I happened to have the one my neighbor gave me, and he asked me what I wanted for it. Well, I have this 70 Road Runner here, and I guess it's going to need an engine at some point. It's originally a 383 car. He had some 383 blocks that were buildable. He said he'd pick one out, build it to stock 383 Magnum specifications for me, and swap straight across if I'd drive the 340 block up to him (Florida to Kansas, so it was quite a drive). DEAL!
His shop helper painted it Chevy orange instead of Mopar orange though. Oh well, I can repaint it.

On the way home, I stopped by a Mopar junkyard and bought a 1970 aluminum bellhousing and a 4 speed manual transmission to go with it. Seemed like good things to round up into a pile.

After arriving home, I checked all the numbers on the new engine & trans. By some amazing coincidence, both were from 1970 cars built in St. Louis, just like my Road Runner. Judging by the VINs, they must have both been built several months before my Road Runner, but I figured that's about as close as I could possibly get to having the right stuff for the car.


Attachments
383.JPG



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#2379521 - 09/30/17 07:11 PM Re: 1970 Roadrunner Project [Re: cataclysm80]
cataclysm80 Offline
master

Registered: 10/24/06
Posts: 4160
Loc: Florida
September 2006, just sitting around.


Attachments
Roadrunner-(2).jpg



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#2379525 - 09/30/17 07:18 PM Re: 1970 Roadrunner Project [Re: cataclysm80]
cataclysm80 Offline
master

Registered: 10/24/06
Posts: 4160
Loc: Florida
December 2007

Time to move the Road Runner off the grass and into a different part of the yard with gravel.
I mounted some old tires onto a set of Crager unilug wheels that I had laying around. I needed something that would hold air for at least half an hour or so, and the car would look better with matching wheels.
Man these lug nuts are really stuck. OH, they're still the original left hand threaded lugs.
While I've got it jacked up, is the Sure Grip unit any good. No, it's not.

I did manage to get it moved over to the other part of the yard.
I also managed to round up an air grabber dash switch & vacuum canister since they didn't install any of that during the hood swap.
The Air Grabber Hood was from a 440 GTX, so I traded the 440 Air Grabber air cleaner stuff for 383 Air Grabber air cleaner stuff.
I got a factory tinted drivers window out of a junkyard to replace the one I was missing.
Hardtop (23) door glass is different than Coupe (21) door glass. Something to do with the B pillar I suppose.
I checked the Road Runner trunk lid to see if it had spoiler cutouts. Yep, the Go-Wing was optional on Road Runners built after Jan 1st 1970. This car was built in April, so the trunk lid was ready. I ordered a pair of reproduction spoiler brackets to go with the Go-Wing in the back seat.

I wasn't quite sure if I was ever going to actually build this car, but it made sense to round up all the parts because whoever did build it would want them.


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#2379526 - 09/30/17 07:19 PM Re: 1970 Roadrunner Project [Re: cataclysm80]
cataclysm80 Offline
master

Registered: 10/24/06
Posts: 4160
Loc: Florida
February 2013
Still sitting...
It had been over 5 years since I even took a picture of the car.
In the meantime, I got married, bought a house or three, etc. etc...


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#2379527 - 09/30/17 07:23 PM Re: 1970 Roadrunner Project [Re: cataclysm80]
cataclysm80 Offline
master

Registered: 10/24/06
Posts: 4160
Loc: Florida
August 2013

Ok, the Road Runner has gotten really dirty from never washing it. This is what 9 years without a bath looks like.
I really should do something with this soon. Maybe I should sell it?


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#2379528 - 09/30/17 07:25 PM Re: 1970 Roadrunner Project [Re: cataclysm80]
cataclysm80 Offline
master

Registered: 10/24/06
Posts: 4160
Loc: Florida
August 2013


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#2379531 - 09/30/17 07:30 PM Re: 1970 Roadrunner Project [Re: cataclysm80]
cataclysm80 Offline
master

Registered: 10/24/06
Posts: 4160
Loc: Florida
March 2015

Ok, it's finally time to do something with this Road Runner.
I aired up the tires, loaded it up on a trailer, hauled it to a local car show to put the word out, and parked it by the highway with "For Sale" written on the windshield.
I also cleaned up the engine and applied the Mopar orange paint. (That's my 70 'Cuda in the photo with the engine.)
It was for sale for a few weeks. Some people stopped by, but no serious offers, just a guy who wanted to take it off my hands for dirt cheap so that he could rat rod it.

It had been a few years since I spent much time working on cars, and this was kind of fun. I had some money in the bank and an empty space in the garage. I decided to build the car and keep it. I don't like selling cars, it's more fun to keep them.
I removed the Air Grabber hood, and pulled the 400 engine with 727 trans.

About a week later, someone came by who was seriously interested. He has a Lemon Twist 1970 GTX with a 440 four barrel. He's had it since the early 70's. He's the second owner, but it's a northern car and really rusted out bad. It's rusted enough that the body is sagging and holding the doors closed. He wants to find a good body to move all his stuff over to. To late, I'm keeping this one. He gave me his contact info in case I changed my mind. I visit with him occasionally. He's getting pretty old, I hope he can build his car someday.


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#2379533 - 09/30/17 07:32 PM Re: 1970 Roadrunner Project [Re: cataclysm80]
cataclysm80 Offline
master

Registered: 10/24/06
Posts: 4160
Loc: Florida
March 2015


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#2379534 - 09/30/17 07:35 PM Re: 1970 Roadrunner Project [Re: cataclysm80]
cataclysm80 Offline
master

Registered: 10/24/06
Posts: 4160
Loc: Florida
August 2015

Project Analysis. This car was rusty when I got it, and sitting around all those years didn't help it any.
It had the typical B body rust at the lower corners of the rear window, and that rusted out the trunk floor. Need new package tray, all the window corner pieces, lower rear window channel, filler panel, trunk floor, and rear crossmember.
The trunk lid itself was also pretty rusty at the rear lip. This is a one year only Plymouth B body trunk lid, and they're getting sort of hard to find. There was also a mid year change for the spoiler cut outs, so when you do find one, there's about a 40/60 chance it's the wrong one. Luckily, I knew where to find one, but it was 5 states away. I drove to get it. It was dented pretty good, but repairable, and it wasn't rusty at all. This is a part that they need to start making reproductions of.
It had the typical lower quarter panel rust. Need new quarter panels, outer wheel wells, and trunk extensions for both sides.
It had the floor rusted through from not having a window all those years. Need new full floor & driver's rear seat footwell.
The battery tray was rusted. Need one of those.
The bottom of the Air Grabber hood had also gotten pretty rusty, so I ordered a new one of those also. Even though the Air Grabber isn't original to the car, it's an option I want to keep.

There was also some metal that needed replaced due to a previous accident. The car had been hit behind the drivers wheel. (or maybe it slid sideways into a pole or something?) The damage had been "repaired" back in the day, but there was still some hidden damage that needed fixed. I knew the car had some damage in this area when I got it, but wasn't aware of how extensive the damage was until the car was disassembled. The drivers front frame rail was bent. The drivers rocker panel had been pushed in also, enough to slightly bend the torsion bar crossmember. The driver's kick panel sheet metal had been crunched in front of the door hinges, and that also crunched that end of the firewall. The upper cowl was also damaged. The driver's inner fender had some issues too.
I ordered all of that from AMD, and a passenger inner fender also.

The K frame was tweaked a bit when the frame rail was bent, so I was hunting for a K frame.
The doors had some repairable rust in the corners, but they also had large tears in the jamb around the latch mechanism. It could probably be fixed, but would be more cost effective to replace them, so I was looking for a good pair of doors.
The car fenders were ok. The driver's side just needed some minor work. (I'm sure it was replaced during the accident.)

The car did originally have a front sway bar, but it didn't have any torque boxes or factory frame stiffening.
The plan is to build a very nice car, but it won't be a trailer queen. This car will be driven on the street and enjoyed, so I wanted some suspension improvements.

I ordered the four factory style torque boxes, all the leaf spring mount reinforcements, and the pinion snubber reinforcement from Resto Rick and Harms Automotive. If you haven't heard of these individuals, you should look them up. I highly recommend both of them. These reinforcements were all part of the factory Extra Heavy Duty Suspension (Hemi Suspension) that was standard on Hemi & 440-6 cars.
I also ordered a lower radiator support reinforcement from XV engineering, to tie the front of the front frame rails together better. I've enjoyed every part that I've purchased from XV. For this car, I prefer the design of the XV piece over the US Car Tools part. The XV lower radiator support looks more like a factory frame rail, while the US Car Tools part is full of lightening holes and looks more like it belongs on a race car. I'm sure they both function fine, but I wanted a less radical more factory look. Something that people might not even notice.


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#2379536 - 09/30/17 07:40 PM Re: 1970 Roadrunner Project [Re: cataclysm80]
cataclysm80 Offline
master

Registered: 10/24/06
Posts: 4160
Loc: Florida
October 2015

The new metal has arrived. Time to get to work!
Removing the rear window revealed some additional rust at the top and sides of the window opening. Luckily it was repairable.

The car in the background is a 71 440-6 Tor-Red Road Runner.


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#2379539 - 09/30/17 07:44 PM Re: 1970 Roadrunner Project [Re: cataclysm80]
cataclysm80 Offline
master

Registered: 10/24/06
Posts: 4160
Loc: Florida
October 2015

The car in the background is a 70 440-6 black on black Road Runner.


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#2379541 - 09/30/17 07:47 PM Re: 1970 Roadrunner Project [Re: cataclysm80]
cataclysm80 Offline
master

Registered: 10/24/06
Posts: 4160
Loc: Florida
October 2015

Here you can see how the rocker panel is bent from the crossmember forward. It did bend the crossmember a little also.

It was really handy having another 70 Road Runner in the room to double check measurements, along with the Factory Service Manual info. We used an original straight K frame to help position the new frame rail in the correct spot. All the other black metal seen here is new from AMD.


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#2379542 - 09/30/17 07:49 PM Re: 1970 Roadrunner Project [Re: cataclysm80]
cataclysm80 Offline
master

Registered: 10/24/06
Posts: 4160
Loc: Florida
October 2015

Red 1970 Challenger T/A in the background.


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#2379543 - 09/30/17 07:50 PM Re: 1970 Roadrunner Project [Re: cataclysm80]
cataclysm80 Offline
master

Registered: 10/24/06
Posts: 4160
Loc: Florida
October 2015 Again

With the new metal in place, you can see how much the firewall was pushed in.


Attachments
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#2379592 - 09/30/17 09:27 PM Re: 1970 Roadrunner Project [Re: cataclysm80]
cataclysm80 Offline
master

Registered: 10/24/06
Posts: 4160
Loc: Florida
November 2015

I found a good K frame and a passenger door at the Don Garlits show swap meet. I still needed to find a driver's door.

With the new rocker panel, crossmember, kick panel, and front frame rail installed, we removed the rest of the metal that needed to be replaced.
I also got my first test drive, Flintstones style.


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#2379593 - 09/30/17 09:29 PM Re: 1970 Roadrunner Project [Re: cataclysm80]
cataclysm80 Offline
master

Registered: 10/24/06
Posts: 4160
Loc: Florida
November 2015


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#2379595 - 09/30/17 09:32 PM Re: 1970 Roadrunner Project [Re: cataclysm80]
cataclysm80 Offline
master

Registered: 10/24/06
Posts: 4160
Loc: Florida
November 2015

With the old metal out of the way, the new pieces were fit onto the car.


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#2379597 - 09/30/17 09:34 PM Re: 1970 Roadrunner Project [Re: cataclysm80]
cataclysm80 Offline
master

Registered: 10/24/06
Posts: 4160
Loc: Florida
November 2015

Fitting a quarter panel.

The cars in the background are the same 70 440-6 black on black Road Runner and a 71 440-6 Tor-Red Road Runner as previously pictured.


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#2379599 - 09/30/17 09:38 PM Re: 1970 Roadrunner Project [Re: cataclysm80]
cataclysm80 Offline
master

Registered: 10/24/06
Posts: 4160
Loc: Florida
December 2015

The first picture here is the pile of bad metal that was removed from the car.

The lower cowl (rain pan) was blasted, primed, and painted body color to protect it from future corrosion and also so that you'd see body color if you ever looked down through the cowl vents.

Proceeding with fitting new metal.


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#2379602 - 09/30/17 09:42 PM Re: 1970 Roadrunner Project [Re: cataclysm80]
cataclysm80 Offline
master

Registered: 10/24/06
Posts: 4160
Loc: Florida
December 2015

Proceeding with fitting new metal.


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#2379607 - 09/30/17 09:44 PM Re: 1970 Roadrunner Project [Re: cataclysm80]
cataclysm80 Offline
master

Registered: 10/24/06
Posts: 4160
Loc: Florida
December 2015

Proceeding with fitting more of the exterior sheet metal.
It's starting to look like a car again.


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#2379612 - 09/30/17 09:46 PM Re: 1970 Roadrunner Project [Re: cataclysm80]
cataclysm80 Offline
master

Registered: 10/24/06
Posts: 4160
Loc: Florida
December 2015


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#2379616 - 09/30/17 09:48 PM Re: 1970 Roadrunner Project [Re: cataclysm80]
cataclysm80 Offline
master

Registered: 10/24/06
Posts: 4160
Loc: Florida
December 2015

A trip to visit family for the holidays results in a drivers door.
This drivers door is from a 1969 Road Runner, but it does have the arrow stamping in the door jamb that tells the assembly line workers were to install the new for 1970 door VIN sticker. It must have been a very late built 1969 car to have a 1970 door.
(1968 doors have the inside lock button located in a different position.)
4 door car doors are not interchangeable with 2 door car doors.


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#2379626 - 09/30/17 09:51 PM Re: 1970 Roadrunner Project [Re: cataclysm80]
cataclysm80 Offline
master

Registered: 10/24/06
Posts: 4160
Loc: Florida
January 2016

Working on getting consistent panel gaps.


Attachments
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#2379631 - 09/30/17 09:54 PM Re: 1970 Roadrunner Project [Re: cataclysm80]
cataclysm80 Offline
master

Registered: 10/24/06
Posts: 4160
Loc: Florida
January 2016

The filler panel had a small issue on the driver's side. It was sticking up into the rear window opening just a little at the corner. A small cut, tap it into place, and weld it up fixed it.

(This was mentioned earlier in this thread, and is one of the pictures that Photobucket deleted.)


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#2379638 - 09/30/17 09:58 PM Re: 1970 Roadrunner Project [Re: cataclysm80]
cataclysm80 Offline
master

Registered: 10/24/06
Posts: 4160
Loc: Florida
February 2016

More work on the panel gaps.


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#2379642 - 09/30/17 10:01 PM Re: 1970 Roadrunner Project [Re: cataclysm80]
cataclysm80 Offline
master

Registered: 10/24/06
Posts: 4160
Loc: Florida
February 2016

Turning the car over to work on the bottom, installing the 4 speed manual trans floor hump, and installing the torque boxes.


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#2379643 - 09/30/17 10:03 PM Re: 1970 Roadrunner Project [Re: cataclysm80]
cataclysm80 Offline
master

Registered: 10/24/06
Posts: 4160
Loc: Florida
February 2016

Installing leaf spring reinforcements, & pinion snubber reinforcement.


Attachments
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#2379649 - 09/30/17 10:06 PM Re: 1970 Roadrunner Project [Re: cataclysm80]
cataclysm80 Offline
master

Registered: 10/24/06
Posts: 4160
Loc: Florida
March 2016

Media blasting & block sanding


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#2379654 - 09/30/17 10:08 PM Re: 1970 Roadrunner Project [Re: cataclysm80]
cataclysm80 Offline
master

Registered: 10/24/06
Posts: 4160
Loc: Florida
March 2016

block sanding


Attachments
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#2379661 - 09/30/17 10:11 PM Re: 1970 Roadrunner Project [Re: cataclysm80]
cataclysm80 Offline
master

Registered: 10/24/06
Posts: 4160
Loc: Florida
April 2016

More block sanding


Attachments
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#2379668 - 09/30/17 10:14 PM Re: 1970 Roadrunner Project [Re: cataclysm80]
cataclysm80 Offline
master

Registered: 10/24/06
Posts: 4160
Loc: Florida
April 2016

sorting through what's left of the parts to see if there's anything I still need to order/find
referencing the original parts to make sure I get the correct colors/patterns on interior parts.
sending the gauges off for restoration


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#2379673 - 09/30/17 10:16 PM Re: 1970 Roadrunner Project [Re: cataclysm80]
cataclysm80 Offline
master

Registered: 10/24/06
Posts: 4160
Loc: Florida
April 2016

documenting the non-numbers matching engine & transmission numbers before installation


Attachments
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#2379677 - 09/30/17 10:18 PM Re: 1970 Roadrunner Project [Re: cataclysm80]
cataclysm80 Offline
master

Registered: 10/24/06
Posts: 4160
Loc: Florida
May 2016


Attachments
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#2379680 - 09/30/17 10:19 PM Re: 1970 Roadrunner Project [Re: cataclysm80]
cataclysm80 Offline
master

Registered: 10/24/06
Posts: 4160
Loc: Florida
May 2016


Attachments
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#2379687 - 09/30/17 10:25 PM Re: 1970 Roadrunner Project [Re: cataclysm80]
cataclysm80 Offline
master

Registered: 10/24/06
Posts: 4160
Loc: Florida
June 2016

Picked up this solid 1970 Satellite for a parts car. I wanted the nice trunk lid, and a few other things.

Also brought home this 1968 Dodge Charger. It's Dark Turquoise with a white vinyl top, white interior, and white R/T bumblebee stripe. 440 four barrel with console shift auto trans and air conditioning. This will get built someday. I'm already gathering parts. It's not road worthy at the moment, but it runs well enough to drive it around the yard or on and off a trailer.


Attachments
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#2379689 - 09/30/17 10:29 PM Re: 1970 Roadrunner Project [Re: cataclysm80]
cataclysm80 Offline
master

Registered: 10/24/06
Posts: 4160
Loc: Florida
August 2016

seam sealing & sound deadening


Attachments
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#2379692 - 09/30/17 10:31 PM Re: 1970 Roadrunner Project [Re: cataclysm80]
cataclysm80 Offline
master

Registered: 10/24/06
Posts: 4160
Loc: Florida
August 2016

painting the doors and the new trunk lid


Attachments
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#2379694 - 09/30/17 10:41 PM Re: 1970 Roadrunner Project [Re: cataclysm80]
cataclysm80 Offline
master

Registered: 10/24/06
Posts: 4160
Loc: Florida
September 2016


Attachments
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#2379695 - 09/30/17 10:43 PM Re: 1970 Roadrunner Project [Re: cataclysm80]
cataclysm80 Offline
master

Registered: 10/24/06
Posts: 4160
Loc: Florida
September 2016

had an issue with the heater core tubes. They didn't come through the firewall at the same angle. Bent them to shape, and had the local radiator shop resolder it.


Attachments
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#2379696 - 09/30/17 10:45 PM Re: 1970 Roadrunner Project [Re: cataclysm80]
cataclysm80 Offline
master

Registered: 10/24/06
Posts: 4160
Loc: Florida
September 2016


Red 1969 Charger R/T on the left, Plum Crazy 1970 Road Runner center, Black 1970 Road Runner right


Attachments
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#2379700 - 09/30/17 11:03 PM Re: 1970 Roadrunner Project [Re: cataclysm80]
cataclysm80 Offline
master

Registered: 10/24/06
Posts: 4160
Loc: Florida
October 2016

table of parts waiting to be installed

looking over the manual trans. Looks like I'm going to need shift levers, linkages, shift mechanism with mounting bracket, shift handle with grips etc. Also need lockout linkages that go to steering column.

Coded on the Fender Tag
Plum Crazy 1970 two door hardtop (no B pillar) Plymouth Road Runner with a 383 four barrel engine and console shifted 4 speed pistol grip manual trans.
Premium vinyl bucket seats in a white interior with black A pillars, dash, kick panels, carpet, & seat belts.
Scheduled Production Date of April 8th 1970 in St. Louis MO
Light package
3.55 Performance Axle Package with Max Cooling fan & 26 inch radiator
Remote control driver's side mirror
3 speed wipers
Rallye Dash (standard on Road Runner)
Stereo 8 Track Radio with 3 speaker dash
Performance Hood Stripe
Road Runner Dust Trail side stripes
Reflective White Road Runner tail panel stripe

Not coded on the tag, but would have been on the Broadcast Sheet
All glass factory tinted (which is a little odd for a non-air conditioned car)
Woodgrain steering wheel (desireable)
Power Steering
Day / Night rearview mirror
Carpet
Ashtrays in the rear armrests were standard
The Hardtop (23) armrest bases are chrome. The Coupe (21) armrest bases were color keyed unless you paid extra for the A87 Road Runner Décor Group which was only available on the Coupe (21) cars. This décor group got you chrome armrest bases, and several other upgrades which came standard on the Hardtop (23).

Factory Options being added to the car
Air Grabber Hood
Go-Wing Spoiler
Passenger Side Mirror
Hood Pins
Exhaust Tips
Extra Heavy Duty Suspension (Hemi Suspension) (and then some)
I enjoy the 3 speaker dash, but the original 8 track was missing, so I'll use a reproduction 1970 Plymouth AM/FM with modern internals.
Power Front Disc Brakes (11.75 inch, so actually larger than factory) The car originally had manual drum brakes on all four corners.
I'm going to run 15 inch Rallye wheels. I've no idea what wheels the car originally had, but they were probably 14 inch.
High Capacity fan blade which pulls more air at all RPM.

Modifications
I'm going to run Pertronix electronic ignition inside the distributor. I want electronic ignition, but these cars never had it, so it will remain mostly hidden inside the distributor.
The original antenna was also missing. I'll use a power antenna with a stock bezel so that it looks close to original, but a car cover will be easy to use. Power Antennas that use stock bezels are made by Retro Sound. I ordered one through Classic Industries.
Radial Tires and improved suspension


Attachments
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#2379702 - 09/30/17 11:11 PM Re: 1970 Roadrunner Project [Re: cataclysm80]
cataclysm80 Offline
master

Registered: 10/24/06
Posts: 4160
Loc: Florida
November 2016

a few more parts on the table

black powder coated seat springs


Attachments
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#2379704 - 09/30/17 11:17 PM Re: 1970 Roadrunner Project [Re: cataclysm80]
cataclysm80 Offline
master

Registered: 10/24/06
Posts: 4160
Loc: Florida
January 2017

The engine is still patiently waiting.


Attachments
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Edited by cataclysm80 (09/30/17 11:18 PM)

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#2379709 - 09/30/17 11:44 PM Re: 1970 Roadrunner Project [Re: cataclysm80]
cataclysm80 Offline
master

Registered: 10/24/06
Posts: 4160
Loc: Florida
March 2017

Time to make the engine a little more pretty.

Painting


Attachments
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#2379712 - 09/30/17 11:48 PM Re: 1970 Roadrunner Project [Re: cataclysm80]
cataclysm80 Offline
master

Registered: 10/24/06
Posts: 4160
Loc: Florida
March 2017

Sanding


Attachments
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#2379714 - 09/30/17 11:52 PM Re: 1970 Roadrunner Project [Re: cataclysm80]
cataclysm80 Offline
master

Registered: 10/24/06
Posts: 4160
Loc: Florida
March 2017

More painting & sanding


Attachments
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#2379715 - 09/30/17 11:56 PM Re: 1970 Roadrunner Project [Re: cataclysm80]
cataclysm80 Offline
master

Registered: 10/24/06
Posts: 4160
Loc: Florida
March 2017

Close ups of the lower radiator support reinforcement, followed by masking to paint the underside.


Attachments
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#2379718 - 10/01/17 12:18 AM Re: 1970 Roadrunner Project [Re: cataclysm80]
cataclysm80 Offline
master

Registered: 10/24/06
Posts: 4160
Loc: Florida
April 2017


Attachments
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#2379719 - 10/01/17 12:21 AM Re: 1970 Roadrunner Project [Re: cataclysm80]
cataclysm80 Offline
master

Registered: 10/24/06
Posts: 4160
Loc: Florida
April 2017


Attachments
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18011161_1539845169394038_3125945652196351996_n.jpg

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#2379721 - 10/01/17 12:24 AM Re: 1970 Roadrunner Project [Re: cataclysm80]
cataclysm80 Offline
master

Registered: 10/24/06
Posts: 4160
Loc: Florida
April 2017


Attachments
0404171431a.jpg

0412171109.jpg

18198531_1551993098179245_8292652344125517370_n.jpg

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#2379724 - 10/01/17 12:32 AM Re: 1970 Roadrunner Project [Re: cataclysm80]
cataclysm80 Offline
master

Registered: 10/24/06
Posts: 4160
Loc: Florida
April 2017

Yes, the bottom of the car was also sanded like the top and painted Plum Crazy before being very neatly undercoated.
I know this isn't quite the (sloppy) way that the factory did things. I guess that makes this car a touch over restored.
I certainly have an appreciation for the factory primer bottoms with body color overspray, but on a car that's going to be regularly driven, I like undercoating for a variety of reasons.


Attachments
18156906_1551994058179149_1828343725892707552_n.jpg

0417170853.jpg

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#2379725 - 10/01/17 12:34 AM Re: 1970 Roadrunner Project [Re: cataclysm80]
cataclysm80 Offline
master

Registered: 10/24/06
Posts: 4160
Loc: Florida
April 2017

That's a Firm Feel Stage 3 power steering box being installed.
Stage 3 is the least assisted power steering box, for a more firm steering wheel. It requires slightly more effort to turn than the factory steering box, which most people would say is a good thing. Chrysler factory power steering was over assisted, making it easy to overcorrect in a turn.

Steering firmness is also affected by front tire width (scrub), and steering wheel diameter (leverage).
It would also be affected by a fast ratio pitman arm (leverage).

Stage 3 is nowhere near being overly firm in my 70 'Cuda, and I expect it to perform nicely in this 70 Road Runner also.


Attachments
18193949_1551993681512520_843970377550362447_n.jpg

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#2379726 - 10/01/17 12:39 AM Re: 1970 Roadrunner Project [Re: cataclysm80]
cataclysm80 Offline
master

Registered: 10/24/06
Posts: 4160
Loc: Florida
April 2017

Had some more parts powdercoated in black.

Tracked down a High Capacity fan blade. These are kind of hard to find, probably something to do with them being used on Superbirds.
There are 5 levels of Mopar cooling
1. Standard Cooling
2. Air Conditioning (bigger radiator with shroud, different water pump impeller, bigger fan blade & thermal drive with 2 rpm limits)
3. High Capacity Fan (pulls more air at all RPM, no RPM limit like thermal drive or torque drive)
4. Max Cooling (biggest radiator with shroud, air conditioner sized fan blade but with torque drive that has 1 rpm limit)
5. Trailer Towing (this is the Max Cooling radiator with the High Capacity Fan)

Ordered a 2998956 Max Cooling radiator from Glen Ray Radiators.

Tracked down a correct carburetor core and sent it to Harms Automotive for restoration. Scott Smith does Amazing work!

I've attached a list of the four barrel carburetors used on 1970 383 engines. (click on it or download it, and you'll be able to read it better)
It includes CFM ratings for the Carter carbs (difficult to find CFM ratings for those)
It also includes the correct Choke part number for each carb, correcting two typos in the parts book, and a note about superceded part numbers.
Scott told me that having the correct carb list # (R-4???A) isn't critical for proper function. The differences are minor, and he can build any Holley 4160 so that it will work like one of the other list numbers.
I ended up getting the correct carb list # for my car, but having Scott build it to work like an Air Grabber carb, since I added the Air Grabber Hood.


Attachments
0421171110.jpg

0425171834-1.jpg

IMG_20170427_193056221.jpg

1970 383 Carbs.JPG



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#2379731 - 10/01/17 01:20 AM Re: 1970 Roadrunner Project [Re: cataclysm80]
cataclysm80 Offline
master

Registered: 10/24/06
Posts: 4160
Loc: Florida
May 2017

The button to fold the seat forward is always black.


Attachments
0502171341.jpg

0502171111.jpg

0502171112.jpg

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#2379732 - 10/01/17 01:23 AM Re: 1970 Roadrunner Project [Re: cataclysm80]
cataclysm80 Offline
master

Registered: 10/24/06
Posts: 4160
Loc: Florida
May 2017


Attachments
0513171141.jpg

0513171141a.jpg

0513171142.jpg

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#2379733 - 10/01/17 01:25 AM Re: 1970 Roadrunner Project [Re: cataclysm80]
cataclysm80 Offline
master

Registered: 10/24/06
Posts: 4160
Loc: Florida
May 2017


Attachments
0513171143.jpg

IMG_20170502_134449931.jpg



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#2379734 - 10/01/17 01:29 AM Re: 1970 Roadrunner Project [Re: cataclysm80]
cataclysm80 Offline
master

Registered: 10/24/06
Posts: 4160
Loc: Florida
May 2017

I had to learn a bit about B body disc brakes, so here's a bunch of useful brake info.
Some of this also applies to other cars.

I ordered an MBM Brakes master cylinder and booster kit from Mancini Racing. This includes the master cylinder, brake booster, firewall reinforcement plate, and linkages to the pedal. These are all parts that are needed to convert from drum brakes to disc brakes.
Item MBMBCK8536-1 & MBMBCK8536-2 appear very similar in the photograph and item list, and it took me a bit to figure out which item number was correct for my application.
The item fitment description lists the wrong change over year for B bodies, and that added to the confusion. It says that 70 B bodies are the same as 70-74 E & 71-74 B, but this is incorrect. 70 B body is actually like the older 66-70 cars. B body didn't update until 1971.
The difference between these two items is the firewall reinforcement plate. MBMBCK8536-1 comes with the 1966-1970 B body firewall plate, while MBMBCK8536-2 comes with a 1970-1974 E body & 1971-1974 B body firewall plate.
I'm building a 1970 B body here, so I bought the MBMBCK8536-1, which strongly resembles what the factory would have used in a power disc brake car.
Their photo provided for MBMBCK8536-2 does not resemble what the factory used in E bodies, so I would be reluctant to use that in an E body. (maybe their picture is wrong?)


Attachments
68-to-70-B-body-Brakes.jpg

68 to 70 B body brakes 2.jpg

68-to-70-B-body-brakes-3.jpg

1970 B body disc brake valves before Jan 1.jpg



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#2379735 - 10/01/17 01:36 AM Re: 1970 Roadrunner Project [Re: cataclysm80]
cataclysm80 Offline
master

Registered: 10/24/06
Posts: 4160
Loc: Florida
May 2017

Time to figure out the stereo.

First I did some research into what was originally available for B body radios.
This info may not be as complete / thorough as my E body radio post, but it's a good starting point for anyone looking for info though, and maybe it will help point someone in the right direction.

B Body Radio Options 1968-1970 & 1971-1974

In 68-70 B bodies Only the AM 8-track cars had a 3 speaker dash (with crossover box and harness)
The AM 8-track was the only Stereo radio available. AM & AM/FM radios in 68-70 B bodies were Mono.
Some 68-70 cars have package trays with symmetrical speaker holes, while most have asymmetrical speaker holes. The difference was do to different vendors supplying the part.
68-70 R31 is the rear speaker option.
68-70 never had dual rear speakers, they had an optional single rear speaker.
That rear speaker is a 5 x 7 speaker on the drivers side.
The passenger side hole was only used for an optional defogger.
The defogger was designed to fit in 6 x 9 speaker holes, so that is why the 68-70 B body defogger intake opening looks like a 6 x 9 speaker hole.
Since dual rear speakers were not available, these cars never had an adapter for dual speakers with defogger.
In 68 the rear speaker fader was next to the radio in the faceplate.
in 69 & 70 the rear speaker fader was on the bottom of the dash frame, to the left of the ashtray.
Stereo radios with a rear speaker used a dual pot fader, while mono radios with a rear speaker used a single pot fader.



71-74 B bodies never had a 3 speaker dash, not even on cars with a Stereo radio. Instead, a Stereo radio came with a single dash speaker and a drivers rear speaker.

71-72 B bodies could have...
mono AM single dash speaker
mono AM single dash speaker + drivers rear speaker
mono AM single dash speaker with cassette player (only 71-72, not a listed option in 73-74)
mono AM single dash speaker with cassette player + drivers rear speaker (only 71-72, not a listed option in 73-74)
Stereo AM/FM single dash speaker + drivers rear speaker
Stereo AM/FM single dash speaker with cassette player + drivers rear speaker
A Microphone is listed as being optional only with cassette players, and only for 1971. (likely available over the counter for other years)
Defogger was optional and used the passenger side package tray hole as an intake, same as in previous years.
The package tray is missing a provision for mounting the dual speaker with defogger adapter, these cars never had an adapter for dual speakers with defogger.

73-74 B bodies could have...
mono AM single dash speaker
mono AM single dash speaker + drivers rear speaker
mono AM/FM single dash speaker (new for 73-74)
mono AM/FM single dash speaker + drivers rear speaker (new for 73-74)
Stereo AM/FM single dash speaker + drivers rear speaker
Stereo AM/FM single dash speaker with cassette player + drivers rear speaker (only 71-73, not a listed option in 74)
Defogger was optional and used the passenger side package tray hole as an intake, same as in previous years.
The package tray is missing a provision for mounting the dual speaker with defogger adapter, these cars never had an adapter for dual speakers with defogger.


The adapter for dual speakers with a defogger was only used on E bodies & C bodies. (same part on both cars)


Original speakers were 8 ohm
You never want to run 4 ohm total impedance speakers with these old original radios. It will burn up the radios output transformer over time.

Modern aftermarket radios are designed to handle modern 4 ohm speakers. (you could use 8 ohm speakers with a modern radio, but it would be quiet)

The new reproduction B body radios have modern internals and can handle 4 or 8 ohm speakers.

Turnswitch.com has an excellent selection of 4 ohm & 8 ohm speakers that are designed to fit classic cars without cutting your car or dash. They accomplish this by using smaller super magnets like inside computers, instead of using larger less powerful ceramic magnets that are typically found on aftermarket speakers.

Having original speakers reconed isn't a great option if you plan to actually listen to the radio because the old magnet will never be as good as it used to be.



I decided to use a Retro Radio power antenna, which I modified a bit. It comes with a flexible portion in between the mast and the motor. I removed this flexible portion.

Though this car was originally a Stereo 8-track car with the 3 speaker dash, I decided to go with a reproduction 1970 AM/FM with all modern internals. It has Bluetooth and an auxiliary input on the back for my MP3 player.
The 1970 AM/FM B body radio is a very desirable one year only radio, and I'll be glad to use my 3 speaker dash with the modern internals.
Antique Automobile Radio is the manufacturer. http://www.radiosforoldcars.com/whoF.htm

For Speakers, I went to Turnswitch.com and ordered a pair of the 3.5 inch square 8 ohm speakers for the stereo dash locations, and a 4x10 Mopar B body Stereo High Output 8 ohm for the dash center (it's a bracket that holds two 8 ohm round speakers in the original 4x10 location, without interfering with any of the heater cables under the dash).
This gives me four 8 ohm dash speakers, that I've wired in parallel so that the left pair is a 4 ohm load, and the right pair is a 4 ohm load. The reproduction radio has modern internals which can handle a 4 ohm load, so this should sound great!
The 3.5 inch square outboard speakers need a bass blocker installed in line with the speaker wire so that they don't distort from low bass notes. The center dash speakers can handle the low notes and don't need the bass blockers.
I also ordered a pair of the SX69 coaxial 6x9 oval speakers, which will mount under the package tray just fine without any cutting or drilling.

Wiring Diagram pictured below.


Attachments
B-Body-Radio.jpg



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#2379738 - 10/01/17 01:48 AM Re: 1970 Roadrunner Project [Re: cataclysm80]
cataclysm80 Offline
master

Registered: 10/24/06
Posts: 4160
Loc: Florida
The wiring grommet that comes with the power antenna fits the factory hole in the kick panel sheet metal.
The top of the power antenna is held by the fender.
A metal bracket was made to hold the bottom of the power antenna. It goes over these two door hinge bolts that are sticking out, and then I put nuts on them to hold the bracket in place. (hinge bolts marked with red arrows in pic below. Not my car in this pic, just grabbed this off the internet to show the door hinge bolts) The metal bracket goes forward from these hinge bolts, and down to the bottom of the antenna, where it bends horizontal to fasten to the bottom of the antenna.

Next the bracket was painted Plum Crazy to match the car, and everything was installed.


Attachments
Power Antenna Bracket Mounts Here.jpg

0513171141.jpg



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#2379746 - 10/01/17 02:32 AM Re: 1970 Roadrunner Project [Re: cataclysm80]
BigMoneyLewis Offline
master

Registered: 08/17/04
Posts: 3864
Loc: Alabama
Would it be possible to get a better quality pic of this front license plate ? Assuming you still have it, I might be interested in buying it from you ..

Greg


Attachments
Screenshot (2841).png




Edited by BigMoneyLewis (10/01/17 02:33 AM)
_________________________
gregward@mchsi.com phone 256-852-0955

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#2379753 - 10/01/17 05:29 AM Re: 1970 Roadrunner Project [Re: BigMoneyLewis]
cataclysm80 Offline
master

Registered: 10/24/06
Posts: 4160
Loc: Florida
Originally Posted By BigMoneyLewis
Would it be possible to get a better quality pic of this front license plate ? Assuming you still have it, I might be interested in buying it from you ..

Greg


It's a pretty cool license plate.
It says SUPER The Road Runninest
It always made me think of Superbirds. smile

It's been awhile since I've seen it, but I should still have it around somewhere. I'll have to look for it.

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#2379786 - 10/01/17 07:30 AM Re: 1970 Roadrunner Project [Re: cataclysm80]
larry4406 Offline
mopar

Registered: 10/04/03
Posts: 402
Loc: Virginia
Awesome build!

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#2380056 - 10/01/17 03:22 PM Re: 1970 Roadrunner Project [Re: larry4406]
cataclysm80 Offline
master

Registered: 10/24/06
Posts: 4160
Loc: Florida
Originally Posted By larry4406
Awesome build!


Thanks! smile

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#2380064 - 10/01/17 03:42 PM Re: 1970 Roadrunner Project [Re: cataclysm80]
cataclysm80 Offline
master

Registered: 10/24/06
Posts: 4160
Loc: Florida
July 2017

Suspension

Rebuilt the 8.75 rear end with 3.55:1 gears and a Sure Grip.

With the car all taken apart, I wasn't able to weigh the car for use in the suspension calculations, so I had to do a little educated guesswork.
A friend weighed a 1970 Hemi GTX, and that gave me something to guess in the ballpark with. It weighed 3841 pounds without a driver, 2177 on the front wheels = 54%, and 1845 on the rear wheels = 46%.
I looked up engine weights, and came up with 765 pounds for a Hemi, and 620 pounds for a 383, so I'm guessing about 145 pounds off the front weight of my 70 Road Runner.
With a 181 pound driver, I'm guessing the 70 Road Runner should weigh about 3877 pounds. I'm guessing 2094 on the front wheels = 54%, and 1783 on the rear wheels = 46%.
OK, now I have an educated guess at what the car should weigh. Ideally, you'd just weigh the car.

I wanted improved handling, so stock torsion bars are to soft for my tastes, but at the same time, this isn't a race car that's going to be driven on a perfectly smooth track. This will be a fun street driven car. I was aiming for torsion bars that were stiff enough to have a spring rate of about 10% of the front end weight, without going over 10%. I selected Firm Feel 1.00 inch diameter torsion bars, which have a spring rate that is 8.9% of my estimated front end weight.
I wanted to match that 8.9% figure for the spring rate of the leaf springs supporting the rear weight. The math said that I needed 160 pound spring rate (each) leaf springs to accomplish this.
I've heard that the Mopar Performance Super Stock springs are 160 pound spring rate, but I've also heard that they're intended to be race parts, so they don't have the durability of a part designed for long term street use, and they sag after a few years. They also require different spring mounts because they're not the same length as original springs, and that also affects the way they function.
I decided to have Firm Feel custom make leaf springs for me. They're original length to use the stock spring mounts, the spring rate I specified, and should be durable enough for long term use on the street. I don't plan to replace my leaf springs every 3 years like some race cars might.

The stock front sway bar is better than nothing, but simply isn't large enough diameter. I chose a Firm Feel 1.125 diameter front sway bar.
Doing the math, this gave me a front roll bias of 78%, which according to the theoretical handling line, would be perfect for a car with 54.5% of the total car weight on the front wheels.
If my car weight is actually 54% on the front like I guessed, then I'll be just a little bit on the oversteer side of the line (the less safe side). Since the car weight was guesswork though, I'm going to start with this and check the actual car weight when it's finally all put together.
If I end up with 54.5% to 55.5% of my total car weight on the front wheels, then I'll run this setup as is.
If I end up with 53% to 54% of my total car weight on the front wheels, then I'll change to a Firm Feel 1.25 diameter front sway bar.
If I end up with 56% to 57% of my total car weight on the front wheels, then I'll add a Firm Feel .75 diameter rear sway bar.
Rear sway bars were never originally available on these cars, but Firm Feel does make them.
These figures will keep me close to the theoretical handling line, or just on the safer understeer side of the line.


I'm running Firm Feel tubular upper control arms with offset bushings installed for more caster. This car will have plenty of caster adjustment available. I'm aiming for 6 degrees positive caster and negative .6 degree camber.
I think the Hotchkiss tubular upper control arms are the best performing upper control arms for a Mopar, but the pivot relocation which gives them an advantage also creates additional effort during alignments, and I didn't want to hassle with that. (plus they're very expensive)
I haven't tried the Magnum Force tubular upper control arms, but I've heard good things about them, including that they provide +4 degrees of caster instead of the +3 you get from Firm Feel. I would seriously consider using those on a future build, without the problem solver bushings, and you might still be able to hit +5 degrees caster if you're lucky, which is pretty good.

I'm running Bilstein shocks.

I've welded plates to the bottom of the lower control arms to keep their U shape from flexing during hard cornering.

I've also installed Firm Feels idler arm roller bearings, and steering box sector shaft support, to help prevent the K frame from flexing due to the steering forces.

I want this car to still look very original, so I've kept that in mind while choosing these modifications. Extremely few people will notice torsion bar diameter or sway bar diameter, or that the leaf springs are very slightly different. Tubular upper control arms aren't really noticeable unless your looking up from underneath the car.
Continuing with this original appearing theme, the car will ride on 15 inch rallye wheels. I didn't want to go with a larger than original wheel on this car. I am using modern steel belted radial tires though, and all the wheel lugs are right hand threaded.

The biggest disc brakes that will fit inside the 15 inch rallyes is 11.75 inch rotors. Consider it done.
11 inch drums on the back.


Attachments
20245790_1666849210026966_8215105074877897848_n.jpg

0714171351.jpg

20139968_1666849306693623_8468907850357470145_n.jpg

20108164_1666849066693647_3400133201511905774_n.jpg



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#2380066 - 10/01/17 03:46 PM Re: 1970 Roadrunner Project [Re: cataclysm80]
cataclysm80 Offline
master

Registered: 10/24/06
Posts: 4160
Loc: Florida
July 2017


Attachments
20228760_1666849670026920_2972216021347421122_n.jpg

0713171040.jpg

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#2380069 - 10/01/17 03:49 PM Re: 1970 Roadrunner Project [Re: cataclysm80]
cataclysm80 Offline
master

Registered: 10/24/06
Posts: 4160
Loc: Florida
July 2017

The car is finally on the ground again.


Attachments
0715171027a.jpg

20108205_1666850430026844_5244974196447671358_n.jpg

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#2380073 - 10/01/17 03:55 PM Re: 1970 Roadrunner Project [Re: cataclysm80]
cataclysm80 Offline
master

Registered: 10/24/06
Posts: 4160
Loc: Florida
July 2017

Installing the headliner


Attachments
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DSCN1464.JPG

DSCN1422.JPG

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#2380074 - 10/01/17 04:00 PM Re: 1970 Roadrunner Project [Re: cataclysm80]
cataclysm80 Offline
master

Registered: 10/24/06
Posts: 4160
Loc: Florida
July 2017

Installing various parts


Attachments
20229112_1668338633211357_2665681434603157850_n.jpg

0718171013.jpg

DSCN1428.JPG

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#2380076 - 10/01/17 04:03 PM Re: 1970 Roadrunner Project [Re: cataclysm80]
cataclysm80 Offline
master

Registered: 10/24/06
Posts: 4160
Loc: Florida
July 2017

Installing various parts, and all the under dash stuff.
Note the Heater Box Factory OK inspection tag. A little over 10 years ago, I was able to speak with Frank, who happened to be one of the Chrysler quality control inspectors back when these cars were built. His job every day was to inspect heater boxes. They came in on pallets, and he was supposed to inspect a certain percent of the boxes on every pallet. He had a pile of these green tags, and a ball point pen to write on them. He didn't always sign the tag. If the box got a tag, that means it was checked. Only heater boxes that were inspected received the green tag, so not every car has one of these.


Attachments
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DSCN1420.JPG

DSCN1421.JPG

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#2380080 - 10/01/17 04:07 PM Re: 1970 Roadrunner Project [Re: cataclysm80]
cataclysm80 Offline
master

Registered: 10/24/06
Posts: 4160
Loc: Florida
July 2017

The Dash


Attachments
DSCN1441.JPG

DSCN1440.JPG

DSCN1439.JPG

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#2380083 - 10/01/17 04:10 PM Re: 1970 Roadrunner Project [Re: cataclysm80]
cataclysm80 Offline
master

Registered: 10/24/06
Posts: 4160
Loc: Florida
July 2017

The Dash


Attachments
DSCN1444.JPG

DSCN1442.JPG

DSCN1443.JPG

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#2380087 - 10/01/17 04:13 PM Re: 1970 Roadrunner Project [Re: cataclysm80]
cataclysm80 Offline
master

Registered: 10/24/06
Posts: 4160
Loc: Florida
July 2017

The Dash


Attachments
DSCN1445.JPG

DSCN1447.JPG



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#2380089 - 10/01/17 04:16 PM Re: 1970 Roadrunner Project [Re: cataclysm80]
cataclysm80 Offline
master

Registered: 10/24/06
Posts: 4160
Loc: Florida
July 2017

Dash Install
sitting on the side bolts and held in place at the center by a metal wire with a hook bent on each end, so that everything can be plugged in and hooked up. Then just remove the wire, tilt the dash up into place, and install the fasteners.


Attachments
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DSCN1449.JPG

DSCN1452.JPG

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#2380092 - 10/01/17 04:18 PM Re: 1970 Roadrunner Project [Re: cataclysm80]
cataclysm80 Offline
master

Registered: 10/24/06
Posts: 4160
Loc: Florida
July 2017

Dash Installed


Attachments
DSCN1459.JPG

DSCN1463.JPG

0720171024b-edit.jpg



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#2380095 - 10/01/17 04:22 PM Re: 1970 Roadrunner Project [Re: cataclysm80]
cataclysm80 Offline
master

Registered: 10/24/06
Posts: 4160
Loc: Florida
July 2017

Engine Bay


Attachments
DSCN1427.JPG

20156137_1668338723211348_6069999799191615175_n.jpg

DSCN1456-edit.jpg

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#2380098 - 10/01/17 04:25 PM Re: 1970 Roadrunner Project [Re: cataclysm80]
cataclysm80 Offline
master

Registered: 10/24/06
Posts: 4160
Loc: Florida
July 2017

Engine Install
That distributor is just there to plug the hole in the engine. I used a different distributer with a tan cap.
The exhaust manifolds were coated in Cast Blast before being painted orange. When the orange burns off the manifolds, the cast blast grey will still be there to protect them from rusting.


Attachments
IMG_20170725_115301057.jpg

IMG_20170725_115402832.jpg

0725171001a.jpg



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#2380100 - 10/01/17 04:27 PM Re: 1970 Roadrunner Project [Re: cataclysm80]
cataclysm80 Offline
master

Registered: 10/24/06
Posts: 4160
Loc: Florida
July 2017

Transmission


Attachments
IMG_20170725_115556133.jpg

0725170954.jpg

IMG_20170725_115757321.jpg



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#2380105 - 10/01/17 04:32 PM Re: 1970 Roadrunner Project [Re: cataclysm80]
cataclysm80 Offline
master

Registered: 10/24/06
Posts: 4160
Loc: Florida
July 2017

A few more pics of some of the suspension items that I mentioned earlier.
I probably should have duplicated the original cosmoline look on the lower control arms. Oh well.


Attachments
IMG_20170725_115847997.jpg

IMG_20170725_115957883.jpg

IMG_20170725_120022919.jpg

IMG_20170831_141102047.jpg



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#2380107 - 10/01/17 04:34 PM Re: 1970 Roadrunner Project [Re: cataclysm80]
cataclysm80 Offline
master

Registered: 10/24/06
Posts: 4160
Loc: Florida
July 2017

drivers front suspension, view from front of car.


Attachments
IMG_20170831_141012447.jpg



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#2380108 - 10/01/17 04:38 PM Re: 1970 Roadrunner Project [Re: cataclysm80]
cataclysm80 Offline
master

Registered: 10/24/06
Posts: 4160
Loc: Florida
August 2017

Install steering column, grill, & front bumper
Paint hood
Paint V21 organisol performance hood treatment
Install tail lights, rear bumper, & exhaust with tips from Accurate Exhaust


Attachments
IMG_20170804_164234760_HDR.jpg

IMG_20170807_150935524.jpg

IMG_20170809_141347341.jpg

IMG_20170809_142356791_HDR.jpg



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#2380110 - 10/01/17 04:43 PM Re: 1970 Roadrunner Project [Re: cataclysm80]
cataclysm80 Offline
master

Registered: 10/24/06
Posts: 4160
Loc: Florida
August 2017

Install side glass
Install rear window, door panels & rear seat


Attachments
IMG_20170809_142226021.jpg

IMG_20170818_161342314.jpg

IMG_20170818_161244614-edit.jpg

20992949_1709897659055454_8276417876440599026_n.jpg



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#2380113 - 10/01/17 04:45 PM Re: 1970 Roadrunner Project [Re: cataclysm80]
cataclysm80 Offline
master

Registered: 10/24/06
Posts: 4160
Loc: Florida
August 2017

Install hood pins


Attachments
IMG_20170818_162247065.jpg



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#2380116 - 10/01/17 04:51 PM Re: 1970 Roadrunner Project [Re: cataclysm80]
cataclysm80 Offline
master

Registered: 10/24/06
Posts: 4160
Loc: Florida
Armrests

This car was missing all of it's armrests when I got it. That meant I had to do some research to figure out what I was supposed to have.
1. Front and rear armrest pads are the same length on this car.
2. The white interior is supposed to have white armrest pads front and back.
3. The rear armrest pads always have ashtrays.
4. The rear armrest pads should be installed with the ashtrays toward the front of the car.
5. Standard armrest bases are color keyed to the interior on 1970 Belvederes & RM21 Road Runner Coupes (has B pillar).
6. 1970 Belvedere sedans could get chromed armrest bases only with the extra cost Custom Trim Package.
7. 1970 RM21 Road Runner Coupes (has B pillar) could get chromed armrest bases only with the extra cost Road Runner DĂ©cor Package.
8. 1970 Satellites, Sport Satellites, GTXs, & RM23 Road Runner hardtops (no B pillar) had standard chromed armrest bases.


That was more complex than I expected!
Not having any of these parts, I went to order reproductions. black or white front armrest pads are available. Only black armrest pads are available with ashtrays installed. Even though I never intend to use the ashtrays, I want to have them because every car had them, and it would just be wrong to not have them. I'd really rather not paint a black armrest pad white though.

Side Note: Door lock knobs are supposed to be white on a white interior car. Only black door lock knobs are available reproduction. I did not want to paint the black door lock knobs white because this car will be driven, and I don't expect the paint would hold up as well as I'd like. I've decided to leave my door lock knobs black for now. In the future, I may pull one off, use it to make a silicone mold, and resin/plastic cast my own white door lock knobs.

Back to the armrest pads now. I decided to get 4 white reproduction armrest pads, and install ashtrays into two of them myself.
I grabbed on of the rear armrests out of my Satellite parts car for an example to work off of.
1. Place the ashtray bezel upside down on the armrest, located where it's supposed to go.
2. Trace around the inside of the bezel where the ashtray goes. This marks the area that needs removed for the ashtray.
3. I used a Dremel tool to grind out the part of the pad that needed removed.
4. Surprise! Unlike the originals, the reproduction has a metal reinforcement inside, and it's in the way.
5. I put a little cut off wheel in the Dremel, and removed the metal that was in the way.
6. Continue grinding the rest of the foam out, to the depth needed for the ashtray.
7. Test fit the bezel & ashtray into the armrest pad. The bezel is very flat, and the armrest pad has a slight crown. Some slight adjustments with soft jaw pliers will do wonders for fitment.
8. Some of the bezel retaining tabs were longer than others. The shorter tabs held tighter for me, so on the second armrest pad, I cut all the bezel retaining tabs down to the short size, and got a much tighter fit than what I achieved on the first armrest pad.
9. Bend the bezel retaining tabs over into the armrest pad to hold the bezel in place. Squeeze them nice and tight.
10. Install ashtray


Attachments
IMG_20170819_010056071.jpg

IMG_20170819_010150586.jpg

IMG_20170819_010023818.jpg

IMG_20170819_191929902.jpg



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#2380119 - 10/01/17 04:53 PM Re: 1970 Roadrunner Project [Re: cataclysm80]
cataclysm80 Offline
master

Registered: 10/24/06
Posts: 4160
Loc: Florida
Armrests continued...


Attachments
IMG_20170820_034342325.jpg

IMG_20170820_034556075.jpg

IMG_20170820_034635658.jpg

IMG_20170820_034809681.jpg



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#2380123 - 10/01/17 05:00 PM Re: 1970 Roadrunner Project [Re: cataclysm80]
cataclysm80 Offline
master

Registered: 10/24/06
Posts: 4160
Loc: Florida
August 2017

Installed front license plate
Installed armrests, carpet, pistol grip shifter, passenger seat, seatbelts, hood mounted turn signal indicators, and most of the other A01 Light Package stuff, windshield, etc.
Installed Go-Wing Spoiler


Attachments
20882058_1709897362388817_2160444201225739509_n.jpg

IMG_20170824_135759892.jpg

IMG_20170824_135835244.jpg

IMG_20170824_140640746.jpg



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#2380126 - 10/01/17 05:02 PM Re: 1970 Roadrunner Project [Re: cataclysm80]
cataclysm80 Offline
master

Registered: 10/24/06
Posts: 4160
Loc: Florida
August 2017

Received and installed carburetor from Harms Automotive, and an NOS choke
(that's still not the right distributor in these pics, it's just there to fill the hole in the engine)


Attachments
IMG_20170824_140854917.jpg

IMG_20170824_140934291.jpg

IMG_20170824_141001413-edit.jpg



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#2380128 - 10/01/17 05:05 PM Re: 1970 Roadrunner Project [Re: cataclysm80]
cataclysm80 Offline
master

Registered: 10/24/06
Posts: 4160
Loc: Florida
August 2017

Carburetor close ups


Attachments
IMG_20170824_141414884.jpg

IMG_20170824_141341407.jpg



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#2380130 - 10/01/17 05:08 PM Re: 1970 Roadrunner Project [Re: cataclysm80]
cataclysm80 Offline
master

Registered: 10/24/06
Posts: 4160
Loc: Florida
August 2017

Installed reflective white tail panel stripe


Attachments
IMG_20170824_145815231.jpg

IMG_20170831_101413782_HDR.jpg

IMG_20170831_101025496_HDR.jpg



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#2380134 - 10/01/17 05:11 PM Re: 1970 Roadrunner Project [Re: cataclysm80]
cataclysm80 Offline
master

Registered: 10/24/06
Posts: 4160
Loc: Florida
Here's where the ground wire for the steering column goes.
Also had to make sure that the voltage regulator had a good ground on the firewall, and that the tail light housings had a good ground to the body. All that fresh paint gets in the way of good grounds sometimes.


Attachments
70-B-Body-Steering-Column-Ground.jpg



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#2380136 - 10/01/17 05:16 PM Re: 1970 Roadrunner Project [Re: cataclysm80]
cataclysm80 Offline
master

Registered: 10/24/06
Posts: 4160
Loc: Florida
August 31st 2017

It's finally time to start the engine and burn off some of that orange paint on the exhaust manifolds.


Attachments
First-Start.jpg

IMG_20170831_101310630.jpg

IMG_20170831_101351781.jpg

IMG_20170831_101506543.jpg



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#2380139 - 10/01/17 05:19 PM Re: 1970 Roadrunner Project [Re: cataclysm80]
cataclysm80 Offline
master

Registered: 10/24/06
Posts: 4160
Loc: Florida
August 31st 2017


Attachments
IMG_20170831_102013339.jpg



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#2380140 - 10/01/17 05:22 PM Re: 1970 Roadrunner Project [Re: cataclysm80]
cataclysm80 Offline
master

Registered: 10/24/06
Posts: 4160
Loc: Florida
September 2017


Attachments
21462297_1736464476398772_1233989083296709592_n edit.jpg

21430142_1736464719732081_1638514310786433659_n.jpg

21462413_1736464883065398_5396564531482496863_n.jpg

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#2380141 - 10/01/17 05:24 PM Re: 1970 Roadrunner Project [Re: cataclysm80]
cataclysm80 Offline
master

Registered: 10/24/06
Posts: 4160
Loc: Florida
September 2017


Attachments
21433214_1736465276398692_8602525043623263213_n.jpg

21430507_1736464209732132_8958363317122541069_n.jpg

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#2380142 - 10/01/17 05:25 PM Re: 1970 Roadrunner Project [Re: cataclysm80]
cataclysm80 Offline
master

Registered: 10/24/06
Posts: 4160
Loc: Florida
There's still some odds and ends left to do...
get an alignment
fender bird decals
door VIN decal
install console
find a wheel for the spare tire
maybe a few other things

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#2380324 - 10/01/17 09:57 PM Re: 1970 Roadrunner Project [Re: cataclysm80]
Chris2581 Offline


Registered: 01/19/03
Posts: 6528
Loc: Jacksonville, FL
It's very nice. I have a 70 RR 383 4-speed car that I'm hoping to start on very soon.
_________________________
Nautilus Racing-
We use Superformance gaskets and Turbo Action converters/products.

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#2380327 - 10/01/17 10:02 PM Re: 1970 Roadrunner Project [Re: cataclysm80]
fc7freak Offline
member

Registered: 10/07/07
Posts: 122
Loc: Kentucky
Awesome car! I am putting the finishing touches on my GY3 Duster 340 now. Always some issues that need fixing but does look finished. Good Luck!

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#2380387 - 10/01/17 11:36 PM Re: 1970 Roadrunner Project [Re: fc7freak]
cataclysm80 Offline
master

Registered: 10/24/06
Posts: 4160
Loc: Florida
GY3 is a great color. It's difficult to capture in a photograph, but it looks amazing in person.

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#2380412 - 10/02/17 12:55 AM Re: 1970 Roadrunner Project [Re: Chris2581]
cataclysm80 Offline
master

Registered: 10/24/06
Posts: 4160
Loc: Florida
Originally Posted By Chris2581
It's very nice. I have a 70 RR 383 4-speed car that I'm hoping to start on very soon.



What's your car like?



There's a 70 year old man down the road who's had a 1970 GTX since 1971. It's a 440 four barrel 4 speed manual transmission with a Dana rear end. It's a California car, and that's where he bought it, but it lived most of it's life in Wisconsin and is rusted BAD on the bottom.
He was interested in buying my Solid 1970 Satellite parts car once I was done with it, so that he could fix his car.
I drove the Road Runner over to see him the other day, to see if he still wanted the Satellite parts car, and he decided that he was getting to old to build his GTX. He really liked what I'd done with the Road Runner, and sold me the GTX to go with the Satellite parts car. I don't plan on building the GTX, but I hate to see it keep rusting away or get crushed, so I want to get it and the parts car into the hands of someone who will build it.
I see that you're in the same state as me, any interest in building a GTX instead of a Road Runner?

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#2381417 - 10/03/17 07:00 PM Re: 1970 Roadrunner Project [Re: cataclysm80]
Chris2581 Offline


Registered: 01/19/03
Posts: 6528
Loc: Jacksonville, FL
My Dad bought the car after he came back from Viet Nam. It was a demo and had about 6000 miles on it.Currently it has 31,000 on it now. We used it as a drag race car,but never cut on it,raced with a 4-speed then 727.We kept all the original parts except for the rear leaf springs,and the hub caps.It had a little rust in the 1/4's and some around the lower back window corners,but that was it.I have everything to get the car back on the road,just needs a bit more body work and might need a trunk floor,and new paint. It's a K2 car with burnt orange bench seats.I would like to get the car done soon as my Dad is 75 and I know he'd like to drive it again.
_________________________
Nautilus Racing-
We use Superformance gaskets and Turbo Action converters/products.

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#2381833 - 10/04/17 01:39 PM Re: 1970 Roadrunner Project [Re: Chris2581]
6PKRTSE Offline
master

Registered: 01/29/04
Posts: 2940
Loc: Motor City
Beautiful ride. It sure looks a lot better than my 70' Road Runner project car.
_________________________
1970 Charger R/T S.E. 440 Six Pack
1970 CHALLENGER R/T, 25.5 Cert, Big Inch Alum 16 plug HEMI twin turbo.
1970 Charger 500 S.E. 440 4 BBL
1970 Plymouth Road Runner.
1996 2500 RAM 488 V-10 4X4.
2012 Challenger R/T Classic.

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#2381848 - 10/04/17 02:18 PM Re: 1970 Roadrunner Project [Re: Chris2581]
cataclysm80 Offline
master

Registered: 10/24/06
Posts: 4160
Loc: Florida
Originally Posted By Chris2581
My Dad bought the car after he came back from Viet Nam. It was a demo and had about 6000 miles on it.Currently it has 31,000 on it now. We used it as a drag race car,but never cut on it,raced with a 4-speed then 727.We kept all the original parts except for the rear leaf springs,and the hub caps.It had a little rust in the 1/4's and some around the lower back window corners,but that was it.I have everything to get the car back on the road,just needs a bit more body work and might need a trunk floor,and new paint. It's a K2 car with burnt orange bench seats.I would like to get the car done soon as my Dad is 75 and I know he'd like to drive it again.



That's awesome! You should definitely build that car, and soon.

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