Yeah, it's been covered differently on other posts over time, but I'd like to hear specifically WHY people prefer the Dana 60 (or modern replacement) vs. the current Ford-type 9" differential for a stout street/strip application.

Just checked out Strange's web site and they do offer both as bolt-in assemblies for an E-body, but I didn't dig deep enough to start coming up w/ $$$ differences, or whether things like my current 8.75" drum brakes can be swapped directly to a 9" assembly, etc.

I'm not prejudiced against either, since I like the drop-out centersection design of my 8.75", and my ol' A12 Road Runner had the factory-installed Dana 60 backing up its 4-speed. I'm looking for legit stuff, not a bunch of subjective "You wouldn't put a FORD rear under your MOPAR, would ya'?" type comments, or whatever comparable would apply to a Dana.

So, please tell me the pros & cons of each. At some point I know The MoPig is going to need something better than my 8.75", so I might as well start asking now.

While we're at it, can I hear people's input on differential options to consider, too? My 8.75 has a tight clutch-type Sure-Grip unit and it's held up OK, but I also see options for Eaton/Detroit Lockers, Eaton/Detroit True-Track, the S-Track, etc.

I'm not familiar with the True-Track or S-Track stuff and don't know why you'd run one of those instead of a locker for similar money. Just don't suggest I run a spool, please.

I went through the same thing when my 8.75 grenaded. For my application, the Dana 60 was cheaper than the 9". You can build a complete Dana 60 from a junkyard truck rear that will withstand 1000+ hp for the cost of just a good aftermarket drop in 9" centersection (around $1300).

For that level of power, the only factory Ford part used from a junkyard 9" will be the bare housing (NOT the centersection)...and that will need a backbrace welded onto it.

I was not concerned w/ weight or the fact that 9" parts are available at wal-mart practically. I just wanted something strong and the best bang for my buck at the time.

IMO...

In a race car, 9". Gear selection, hard core parts availability, aluminum case (weight), ability to keep the 4 link narrow and weld brackets and braces where ever they need to go, able to have multiple/spare centers ready, easy to work on.

Street/strip. Danas are ok. Cost less, weight not so much an issue, reliable and strong, and you're more likely to install it and forget it in that application.

I would put a Dana in a street car. A race car? 9". Some people like vanilla, some like chocolate. Pick your flavor.

If you aren't in a big hurry keep your eyes up for a good deal on either one. Dr Differential had a good price on new Dana 60's. I found a used 9" with very good axles, spool, aluminum housing, 4:30 pro gear and 2 complete sets of strange brakes for 500 dollars. I may never use it but the price was to good to pass up. I have a 9" in the Daytona, a dana in my Duster, and a 9" in my new small tire car.

Dana 60 with a Power Lock. Install it and forget about it.

I like the Dana 60 for a lot of reasons (Strength, Cost) and I like the Ford for the sealed wheel bearings (packing and adjusting tapered roller bearings is not all that much fun )and the ease of changing ratios. Now I have the best of both worlds in the racer, Dana 60 case, Dr. Diff Spool, 4.10 gears, 35 spline Dutchman axles, Ford "Torino" wheel bearings, Ford 11" Drum brakes, 1350 Forged Pinion Yoke....assemble and forget it


I built a similar Dana 60-2 for the tow vehicle, narrowed 6" on left axle tube & shaft only, resplined (1) stock 35 spline axle, PowerLock carrier with 4.10 gears, stock 12" Jeep Drum brakes and new Forged 1310 Pinion Yolk. This will go under the '87 D100 daily driver that came to me with 16" aftermarket wheels (matching the Jeep Drums & wheel 5 on 5.5" bolt circle). Now I wish I had used a set of Ford 1/2 truck brakes and "Torino" wheel bearings (it came with the tapered roller bearings same as an 8.75") because I could use this under an A-body with 15" wheels (same width as the truck) A nice geared LSD like a Tru-Trac (sp) would be good , too because then I could forget about using special gear oil (no clutches).

Right now I have about $900.00 in the truck rear (bought yard fresh, rebuilt for $400.00)
and it is worth more than double that to me.

Cost and strength were big factors for me when I built my Dana. Also the ability to reuse my current brakes helped as well.

I bought a junkyard F250 D60, 4.10's with a powerlok. I could have reused the stock parts and changed the side gears to 35 spline. Instead I went new and spent a few extra bucks, but it was worth it to me. I could resell the powerlock and gears I bet if I tried.

I have $1100 invested, Housing, billet housing ends, ring and pinion, axles, narrowing, set up kit, forged yoke etc. I sold my 8.75 for $650 making the total investment $450 for a rearend I haven't worried about for a minute since installing 4 years and 1000 drag strip passes ago.

My new ride has a 9", but it came with the purchase of the truck, and it is nice knowing if I need to change gears its going to be a quick project unlike the dana.

Here's something that no one ever mentions: The 9" pinion support. While it adds strength to the gear mesh, it takes up valuable room and forces design compromises in the limited slip. For that reason the 9" is much better suited to using either a spool or original type Detroit Locker. Those point towards strip use.

The 60, on the other hand, depends on the stiffness of the pinion shaft to keep the gears meshed. But there is plenty of room for a limited slip of about any configuration. This points towards street applications.

As far as weight goes, I don't think there's that much difference between a race 9" and a race D60. One is physically larger, for sure. That doesn't mean it's heavier when prepped for racing.

As far as limited slips go, the Truetrac has been developed over the last 30 years into a pretty decent unit. That's the direction I'd go in a hot street car, the D60 with Truetrac.

To me, nothing says "serious" like that odd-shaped differential cover. And there is something to be said for tradition, even though it doesn't win races.

R.

For me there is not really a wrong answer here both are good for there own applications with a limited slip a Dana is hard to beat.

My new project will have a 9" because,
A) gear changes are easier
B) lower pinion location so car can sit lower with stock floor
C) gear availabilty
D)lower weight with a alum. case
and as a bonus it will pi$$ off the purists

If you decide on a Ford 9", opt for the 12 bolt center - 3% more efficient.

A 9" can be back brace for tube strength..if both
have equal sized tubes.. thats a major plus

Brad, once you see the pinion support spit out on the starting line from a Ford nine inch rear end you will never think of using a Ford type nine or nine and half inch rearend again

9 inch you can get in chromoly housing, aluminum bolt through center sections. You can back brace the housing. Easy gear gear changes, more gear selections. More used at race tracks so replacement parts are more available in a pinch.more support for your pinion so less chance of hurting gears.

I put a Strange S-60 under my street/strip Dart five years ago, no issues.

As stated above, the pinion support on a stock 9" is not to strong. I have seen many pinions spit out the front of 9" center sections at the track. Of coarse you can buy the new beefed up center with 12 bolts , bolt through bearing cap retainers, back brace the housing, weld on chrome moly housing tubes, or just put in a stock dana to achieve the same results. My Dana has been under my Barracuda for 40 years with thousands of runs , Still running the original bearings. and brakes.

WHO RUNS STOCK supports on a race car? answer nobody, there you have it...