Over the holiday break, I've been working in my garage - removing the 360 engine in my 1970 Duster. At this point in the process, I'm attempting to remove the headers from the engine. However, there and two bolts on the right hand side that are in contact with the header tubing. I have not started on the left hand side yet, but looks like a similar condition. Just wanted to see if anyone has dealt with this condition and what steps you took to resolve. After spending some time on it, I thought about bring out a cutting device. However, I wanted to seek assistance from the Mopar Forum before moving forward. Below is a pic of the front of the right header. There is a similar condition at the rear port of the header too (and LHS too).

Thank you in advance for your assistance and Happy Holidays!!!

Vinny

Can you get an open end wrench on that bolt & move it a fraction of a turn at a time before you reposition the wrench? Loosening all the other bolts then seeing if you can tap the header rearward to gain a hair more of clearance between bolt & tube might help you unscrew that bolt. Also unscrew the bolt then tighten it back up (just snug) then loosen it even further. EDIT you will need to move the flange out as you unscrew the bolt. Have all the other bolts out so the flange can move as you work on the 2 problem bolts, unbolted at the collector also so the header is (almost) free

I was thinking replacing two of the other on bolts on each end, with longer bolts or even studs so the header has something to ride on. This way you wont have to hold the header as you go.
Then do as above open end wrench and keep moving it further out till the trouble bolts are free. Then the two longer bolts should be a breeze.

Yes, I have the headers loose down at the collector. I also used an open wrench to get the bolt to this condition. It was just as you described a series of small rotations with the open wrench, but the bolt head ultimately contacts the piping. I started to tighten the bolt back up to gain space and I was going to get the file out to make some room. I don't plan to reuse the headers, but did not want to destroy in case somebody wanted them.

The front bolt issue seems to be a better condition then the rear (see new photo).

Can you cut off the bolt head and then remove them with vise grips, once the header is out?

You just need to keep using the open end wrench and loosen the headers up so you can move them outward a little at a time to give you more bolt clearance. You will have to loosen up all the bolts to allow the header to move away from the block.

I totally thought about cutting the bolt heads. I will try loosening the bolt some more in the morning, if it does not work, I will cut the bolt heads.

You just pull the header outwards as you undo the bolts, a bit time consuming but nothing to it really.

Sheldon

I will try working the bolts out tomorrow morning... I will report back. Thank you very much to all for the input and quick responses.

Like runcharger said, just keep moving the header out as you loosen the bolt. Those bolts arent that long so it shouldnt take that much effort, just patience

I used to deal with that and wonder why TTIs are so much $$. Then I got a set of their step headers- worth the $$!

Thank you very much to all for the input. I was able to remove all the bolts yesterday based on your feedback. I just wanted to make sure that I was not damaging anything when I initially started the removal process. I'm not sure at this point if I will install headers or stock exhaust manifolds on the 340 engine that I plan to install. However, if I do consider going with headers I will be looking at the bolt position relative to the tubing. Sounds like TTI headers may be the way to go.

Happy New Year and thanks again!

Vinny

Thank you for the info!

Look at Dougs D453 headers.

Can be had with ceramic coating from autozone, for about 500-550 delivered to your door with a 20% off code. They fit great, don't wrap steering linkage and don't hang low.

Thank you for the recommendation on Doug's D453 Headers. I will definitely look into those.

Thanks again,
Vinny

Whether you use headers or exhaust manifolds with the new motor, use studs instead of bolts in the front and rear holes on each side. Those 4 go into water jackets. That way, if you ever need to replace exhaust gaskets...you don't need to drain the coolant.

JDMopar,

Thank you very much for the info on the use of studs in the water jackets.

You're welcome. If you use stock type studs, with the unthreaded part in the middle, you will need a thick washer between the header and nut...on each stud. I always just use the factory washers for exhaust manifolds. Good luck.