Just fired my first Gen II Hemi Sunday. What's a good target for total ign advance on these motors, as a starting point?
Specifics are:
477 CI (big bore)
10.1:1 CR
aluminum heads
231/239 dur @ .050; .535/.550 lift hyd roller cam
FAST EZ EFI
4-sp manual
Thanks all!

30-34

What total did you have when you broke it in? I would set the initial with the "vac gauge method" then shorten the slots to get the total you want (this amt is with can capped) then play with springs then plug in/adj the can. IN ORDER. Alot of work but alot of gain to be had & I know you dont want a wimpy Hemi

I run mine locked out @ 32. Starts fine even in warm weather.

on the dyno, while not huge, mine made about 6hp more at 32 that at 34 for every 100 rpm. this was around 6k. 32 is generally the place to go!

As has already been mentioned, it takes time but is worth it! There is absolutely no reason to even break out a timing light until you KNOW exactly where top dead #1 is in relation to the timing tab on your damper and timing chain cover. If you didn't measure this yourself, check it with a piston stop! NEVER TRUST YOUR ENGINE BUILDER TO DO THIS! Ask me how I know. I have seen as much as 18 degrees off! (I once pulled the vacuum advance line to check timing and the engine died, (what's this?) The owner couldn't understand the "lazy acceleration)
On the dyno, my engine made more power at 32 degrees as well, or so said the sheet. Problem was, the timing marks didn't match top dead center when I checked with a piston stop (the builder hinted that it "might be off a degree or two"?)
Three degrees, (out of 360) may not sound like a lot, but when you are actually at 32 vs. 35, you can FEEL the difference!
I am also a believer in vacuum advance. Look at it this way, if it wasn't needed the factory would have NEVER added the cost. Once you get the mechanical figured out, then TUNE the vacuum. It pays off big time in part throttle "tip in" response, HAS to be good for the engine, (burning fuel that would otherwise contaminate the oil and wash the rings down) and improve mileage.
My engine shows over 200lb cranking pressure, is 10.75 to 1 measured with aluminum heads and runs great it 100 degree weather with 93 octane and over 40 degrees with vacuum advance, (adjusted to come in slow of course). All of this takes time and experimentation, all a part of a sweet running, powerful STREET car.
One more comment and I will shut up, no two cars, engines, gear/converter combos will be the same, the ONLY way to tune your car, it to take the time as was said earlier. My car weighs 4,175lb, 3.54 gear (2.76 in OD) and has a "small cam", 11" converter and etc. A lighter car with more gear, different cam/converter would be totally different. So you have to experiment with YOUR combo. Still, starting at 32 degrees total is safe, but not absolutely right for YOUR combination.

Great info guys. Thanks.
I'm just looking for a starting point on the total and didn't know how these Hemi's compared to the wedge motors. Will use 32 degrees and go from there.
Ragtop: I established a new timing mark dead-nuts on while blueprinting, so we should be good there. Thanks for the additional info.

My iron-head 438-incher with 10.8 actual CR is happy at 36. Also has vac adv. Does have a pretty big Crower cam in it, though. Never rattles even on pump 91 in Summer.

30-35° will be fine.

FWIW...the timing that makes the most power on the dyno doesn't necessarily run the fastest at the track.
My 572" pump gas hemi likes 34-35°.

I assume he's using the FAST system to control ignition, so reference to vacuum advance don't apply. My Iron headed, 10.5:1, FAST EFI 477 hemi likes 33 FWIW. My solid roller is similar to your hyd roller.