PPG dominates the OE automotive finishes business. Both in American and worldwide. In 98% of the occurances a bad paint job/adhesion etc is due to incorrect or poor prep, or simply not following the instuctions. I sell PPG Marine, and architectural finishes, and they send me to school several times a year. They give me direct access to product line specific specialists. I get calls from painters and boat companies etc, when something doesnt come out right. And I can promise you 98% of the time the problem is due to poor surface prep, applying at wrong temps, or not applying according to instructions.

That being said, noone ever wants to admit at first they misapplied the product, or didnt prep the metal, wood, aluminum, masonry etc. Men and instuctions oftentimes dont go well together. No mechanic, painter, welder, plumber ever wants to admit any lack of knowledge or error whatsover. We all learn new things from time to time, or slip up and make mistakes from time to time. I had a situation where a painter did a whole school with a product line and it was perfect except the doors. In the middle where the kids would open and close the doors with their dirty hands the paint was lifting off of the surface. Simply put the surface was compromised by the oil and other things on peoples hands. But nooooo the painter swore it was bad paint. Bad product! Perfect everywhere else but bad paint where he neglected to wipe down and sand the areas where buildup from human touch was especially significant. So after listening 2 hours, I simply gave him 5 gallons of paint. He paints the entire school system so 5 gallons was a small price to pay. He saved his ego, I saved his business. I know, he knows, everybody now really knows what happened. But the paint mfg was the whipping boy that day.

Sometimes I give the customer new paint as the they are using alot of the product, or loyal to the line, or influential in the specing the paint. But I swear its in the prep. Almost always is........almost always is.

the cars I was speaking of have been prepped pretty well with 320 grit,color tinted catalized sealer was used then basecoat applied and withing 25-30 minutes clearcoat was sprayed, the sealer and basecoat stayed on the car just fine, it's the clear that just peeled off in huge sheets, I'm ot talking about small patches, but rather sheets like a squre foot or two at a time,the cars looked like they had custom satin/flat paint jobs, after contacting the distributor, they asked if they were using adhesion promoter, lol, ask any painter, if he ever uses adhesion promoter between base and clear,I know I never had any adhesion issues between base and clear that made me start using adhesion promoter,no matter what paintline or clear I use

i have never heard of a adhesion promoter between base and clear coat eather. i think the rep was giving you a tall tale.
i think your problem with the clear delaminating from the base coat was using two incompatible products from different manufacturers.
if a body shop is DUMB enough to use products from different manufacturers in there paint jobs they deserve all the problems they get. you should ALWAYS use products from the same manufacturer to garentee the products will be compatible with each other and you can have the manufacturer stand behind the products.
if it wasn't a incompatibility problem you had a problem of applying the base coat to dry. when you do that the paint can't chemically stick to the surface underneath. it's like trying to apply paint with a layer of dust, that can blow off with air pressure, between coats of paint.

let me clear that up for you AGAIN, theese were NOT MY cars or cars of my customers and have NOTHING to do with my shop,MY BROTHER'S SHOP was doing the work, NOT my shop! And the guys who painted those cars are actually very experienced painters and can paint a side of a bus and it'll look like glass without orangepeel or sags ,they can take most of the so-called painters on theese boards to school

FYI,most paintlines actually have a mid-coat adhesion promoter,if you actually were going by all the instructions on tech sheets you might actually come across it ,if you actually read them

Stefan

try a two parts paint to one part reducer mix if your using base coat. that may solve your problem. however omni is not known for its great covering ability. most cheaper lines of paint are the same way. less pigment equals poor coverage.

Reduce it 3 to 1 and you'll be fine.

Oh, I'm pretty sure they made it work, they stopped using that OMNI garbage, that cured the problem real quick

All the greens and dark blues in the Omni line SUCK.One thing to do is use Dp 60 first or a coat of black base.Then it should cover in 2 to 3 coats.

I am using single stage Omni
I mix it 8 4 1 paint,hardener,and reducer respectively.
I am painting as much as myself on the car (door jams,firewall,etc.)
I have no problems with the product at all as long as I pay attention to what I am doing.
I usually goof up more than blaming the product.
The real paint job on the car will be done by a pro using their preferred brand in a base/clear.