I'm in the market for a wideband O2, I'm throwing in the towel when it comes to dialing in this quick fuel carburetor of mine.
I have heard good things about the innovate lm2 but that entire kit is around 300.00 dollars.
Is there any other widebands that are good qauulity and a little bit cheaper? For example I am looking at an innovate Lc1 wideband for 150.00, it comes with a gauge and sensor and bung. Is this a descent wideband? What are some of you guys using and how much did you pay for it?

I spent almost $300 for mine from Amazon.com by AEM.
What amazed me is that for years I thought I was in the ballpark if the car didn't smoke black or smell rich.
Not even close!
I was idling at around 12.0 and it smelled and looked clean. I leaned the primaries 7 sizes down from there!

I also found the innovate mtx-L For 150 also which one would be better the mtx-L or the lc1? they are both 150

I use the LC-1 for my homebrew EFI. As a standalone, the software is pretty decent. You will need a serial port (or USB serial port) to run it. I think it will even do some down and dirty datalogging. I wouldn't hesitate using it like that.

You can buy the kits that have a gauge that you can mount inside of your car. These are less expensive and you can read them "live" as you are driving. They do not store any data, but they are less expensive than the models that do have this option. It you need the data logger, then this is not your option.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/fst-170634
There are several brands that sell their kits like this one.

I don't regret spending the extra money on my LM-2. I'm tuning the cruise on my 950HP and log each change, then view the log on my computer. I add notes to each log with the carb set up. I can compare logs and see where the changes I made affects the afr. For me it saves a lot of confusion. All the logs are in a folder on the computer for future reference. The LM-2 is a great tool .

i have the mtx-l and it was easy to install and works fine.
easily transferred to another vehicle.

This spring I bought a used "Innovate Motorsports 3844 MTX-L Complete All-In-One Air/Fuel Ratio Gauge Kit" from Amazon for $130 and it saved me weeks of troubleshooting. It was sold as used but it was new in the box.

The cable is long enough to to bring it in the car for "live" tests. I rigged a magnetic mount and set the entire thing in my ashtray while I drove it. I agree 100% that "live" tests are the only way to go.

Once I was dialed in, I put it in a box and it sits right here beside me! This setup is cheap and it came with computer connections so you can record the readings are regular intervals. Combine that with a timer and you can chart your results.

It would take very little to convince me to sell this setup now that i am done with the carb work!

I have a DynoJet Wideband commander I was given for fixing someone's ride. This set up has an in car gauge, and a plug and cable for a USB port

The car will have headers and an X pipe

I'd like to know how to determine where to weld the bung/place the O2. I know to point the tip down to prevent the collection of moisture and that I should have it close to the Header collector.

The system only appears to be able to support one sensor, I did buy two bungs JIK

So where should the sensor be installed?

As an L.M.2 owner and user,whatever unit you choose I would suggest getting one that can record info and play it back on your computer or it's own screen. It's much safer and you'll see things that you may miss while driving-and-watching.

There are many here smarter than I am but my research found that the best placement is as close to the cylinders as possible. In fact, newer hi-performance vehicles put them right on the exhaust manifold one-per-cylinder.

As for directional placement, I found some research that suggests you should avoid up and down configurations and placement at 11 O'clock or 1 O'clock is better.

On my Ebody we "hid" them down near the transmission. You can't see them unless the car is lifted. As much as I hated defacing my Accurate stainless exhaust, I hated even more the idea of tearing apart the exhaust to do this work later.

I didn't place them as close to the exhaust manifolds as I would have liked but I believe I got accurate readings here. We put on on each side.

""So where should the sensor be installed?""

Exhaust leaks will cause issues getting a solid reading. So to keep that issue to a minimum, locate the sensors as far forward on the exhaust system as you can.
I did not want to drill into my TTi headers (wish I would have ordered them with the bungs installed b4 coating), so I installed them into the header reducers between 10:00 and 2:00.
Before I drilled mine, I took one of the sensors and moved it around the reducer to make sure that I had the clearance around the under body and trans. Then I marked the spot on each reducer. While you are doing this, you might want to get a game plan together for the harness routing. I ran both of my sensors up through the rubber boot that is around the trans linkage to the console. Then under the console/carpet to the firewall. Then I "tied-up" computer modules under the dash so that they could get some air when they warm up.

in my car, i put the sensors right after the collectors. mine are more at 3 o'clock cause i wouldn't be able to install the sensor if it were higher. first time around i really cheaped out and put in narrow band system, money was tight at the time, but it does tell me if i'm running rich, lean or optimal. i figure with the bungs installed, i can always upgrade.

what gas are you using with your O2 sensors? anyone run leaded fuel with these?

I mistakenly ordered a Bosch 5 wire 17025 O2 sensor but needed a 17018 or 17205 style with a different plug.

http://www.oxygensensor.net/widebandsensors.php

Can I just release the pins and just swap the right plug/connector end onto this sensor?

EDIT I just sent it back.... and found the right one even cheaper

I too wish I would have installed the bungs on the headers before coating. I had them placed just behind the collector vertically.

Things happen very quickly at full throttle and some details can be completely missed without logging capabilities. If maximum output at full throttle is a goal, then logging is a must IMHO.

I would love to have one like the lm2 that stores data. I just don't know if i'll be able to afford one, hunting season is right around the corner and I need to save a little for fuel and ammunition and my rifle needs a new scope. Never ending with the spending. I will see what I can swing by the end of the summer.

Here's a shot of where mine is located.

Awesome placement! No one would ever know they were there.