Quote:

---

I would go with the B1Mc motor. It is easier to put a mild cam in it and add a blower to get the 1200 hp over the others. Cubes rule, blown or not. Heads likewise. The more power you want to make, the better they need to be. I am partial to screw type blowers. Whipple has sizes that will accommodate what you want, and not break a sweat doing it. If you build an 800 hp pump gas motor, then put 7.5 psi boost to it, with an intercooler it will produce about an additional 60 percent more hp. That would get you what you want with insane off idle torque to boot.

---

My issue is with a screw blower and B1s is the intake. It will cost $2500- $3000 just for the intake. Not that this is a low budget build but I would like to spend that money else where.

Quote:

---

I would go the Indy route as far as engine wise,why because they make and sell all the parts needed for which ever Forced Induction system you chose to use.

---

Quote:

---

Quote:

---

I would go the Indy route as far as engine wise,why because they make and sell all the parts needed for which ever Forced Induction system you chose to use.

---

Are you thinking about a blower intake? That is the only thing that Indy makes for the indy heads. Right???

---

Quote:

---

Quote:

---

Quote:

---

I would go the Indy route as far as engine wise,why because they make and sell all the parts needed for which ever Forced Induction system you chose to use.

---

Are you thinking about a blower intake? That is the only thing that Indy makes for the indy heads. Right???

---

Go to www.indyheads.com and you can see what all they offer!

---

Quote:

---

It will be hard to ONLY make 1300hp with any of those combos.
I have a 500" -1 motor in my turbo car. And a Procharger on my SRT challenger. Both are diffrent animals.
It's hard to choose what type is better.
If you have the $$ and want it running soon then the Procharger is the way to go. It reuses your headers, and comes as a bolt on kit.
If you want to save a little $$ (not much) and can fab up your hot and cold plumbing, and don't mind all the little do dads that go along with a turbo. Then figure out the learning curve of what changes in the tune (everything) then a turbo is pretty neet.
I think if your going to stay carbarated then I would stick with a Procharger. And if your going to use a good stand alone EFI system like Fast or Holley then turbos start to shine.


As for what combo on the street I would go the 4.15 crank combo. Hooking the 4.5 crank could be difficult.

---

Thank you for your input. I have 2 four link cars and both are capable of big tires. So hooking should not be a problem. I'm looking to drive the car little more on the street but would like to run 5.0 index when I do race.

Quote:

---

Life begins at 20lbs of boost...

Me, simpilest way to get your project off the ground is too keep it simple. A procharger will do that.

If you go to a crank driven unit, you can run a stock water pump and keep most of you normal brackets and such...

Now if 1300hp is your limit, a 470 with an F1R pushed pretty hard will exceed that, meaning race gas or water injection. A 470 with an F2 will do that easy on pump gas...So a 4.15 crank and the best pistons & rings you can get. You start going above 520 cubes and you need a big air pump, and hp numbers get real big, but so do the expenses. A 572 can make +2000hp on pump gas....So cubes are really not needed. A good block heads, rods and pistons are...

Now I have researched this a bit, and New Era Racecraft I liked the best with a gear drive. You don't need a lot of cubes at 1300hp even on pump gas, but other custom things add up. So if a crank drive will fit with a split radiator set-up, or even a conventional side mount, they are easy to get going. Mopars like boost!

Boosted engines require better tech than some shops can provide, but read up on them. A well built engine will last...

http://www.neweraracecraft.com/engine-component-kits.html

(NER piston and ring packs) Stg 1P
Steve's development of piston and dish / dome profiles continues here at NER. As can be seen by the pictures on this site we use a multitude of crown designs, Flat tops, inverted domes, spherical dish, conical dish, button dish and a round dish. Different engines respond differently to the quench area we give it, the most noted is the BBCHRY's. As with most all of our items we sell, it comes from the school of hard knocks, there was a problem, we work to find the solution, we test it, then we sell it.

The other thing you will see in our pistons is they are hard anodized. This is the same procedure done to the Nitro pistons, it makes the pistons very tuff and it is NOT a coating like ceramic or Teflon skirts. Minor misses in tune up that would have lifted a ring land are totally eliminated, skirts are less appt to collapse and wont scuff, unless your tune up is so far out in right field you can't be seen.

Third thing is the ring pack. We sell all our pistons with Total Seal steel tops, Napier seconds and varying oil rings, depending on the application we may use a Dyke ring, 1/16 std style ring, .043" in the tops. Radial wall thickness may vary too but in general we are looking for a bullet proof ring pack so std D wall will apply in most cases. 4th we only use Nickel carbon steel alloy Pins in applications above 1200HP and below we use a high carbon Pin. No std cheap Pins that come with shelf pistons.

If you want the right pistons, the right crown design, and the right ring pack, you need NER's.

NER piston ring packs are $1,450.00 for most applications, and are made for us by J.E. and Diamond.

---

Quote:

---

I build a lot of 3600lb 8 second blow thru street cars. Pump gas on the street c-16 at the track. You can't go wrong with a blow thru f-2. Don't put to much stroke in it, its not a turbo.

---

Quote:

---

Quote:

---

I build a lot of 3600lb 8 second blow thru street cars. Pump gas on the street c-16 at the track. You can't go wrong with a blow thru f-2. Don't put to much stroke in it, its not a turbo.

---

Since I already have 2 motors with 4.50 strokes, will it hurt the performance or just not help?

---

Quote:

---

Quote:

---

Quote:

---

I build a lot of 3600lb 8 second blow thru street cars. Pump gas on the street c-16 at the track. You can't go wrong with a blow thru f-2. Don't put to much stroke in it, its not a turbo.

---

Since I already have 2 motors with 4.50 strokes, will it hurt the performance or just not help?

---

I'm not a fan of long strokes. I like short strokes, and big bores. piston speed boosted makes it tough to control the ring package.

---