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I would go with the B1Mc motor. It is easier to put a mild cam in it and add a blower to get the 1200 hp over the others. Cubes rule, blown or not. Heads likewise. The more power you want to make, the better they need to be. I am partial to screw type blowers. Whipple has sizes that will accommodate what you want, and not break a sweat doing it. If you build an 800 hp pump gas motor, then put 7.5 psi boost to it, with an intercooler it will produce about an additional 60 percent more hp. That would get you what you want with insane off idle torque to boot.

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My issue is with a screw blower and B1s is the intake. It will cost $2500- $3000 just for the intake. Not that this is a low budget build but I would like to spend that money else where.

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I would go the Indy route as far as engine wise,why because they make and sell all the parts needed for which ever Forced Induction system you chose to use.

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I would go the Indy route as far as engine wise,why because they make and sell all the parts needed for which ever Forced Induction system you chose to use.

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Are you thinking about a blower intake? That is the only thing that Indy makes for the indy heads. Right???

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I would go the Indy route as far as engine wise,why because they make and sell all the parts needed for which ever Forced Induction system you chose to use.

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Are you thinking about a blower intake? That is the only thing that Indy makes for the indy heads. Right???

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Go to www.indyheads.com and you can see what all they offer!

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It will be hard to ONLY make 1300hp with any of those combos.
I have a 500" -1 motor in my turbo car. And a Procharger on my SRT challenger. Both are diffrent animals.
It's hard to choose what type is better.
If you have the $$ and want it running soon then the Procharger is the way to go. It reuses your headers, and comes as a bolt on kit.
If you want to save a little $$ (not much) and can fab up your hot and cold plumbing, and don't mind all the little do dads that go along with a turbo. Then figure out the learning curve of what changes in the tune (everything) then a turbo is pretty neet.
I think if your going to stay carbarated then I would stick with a Procharger. And if your going to use a good stand alone EFI system like Fast or Holley then turbos start to shine.


As for what combo on the street I would go the 4.15 crank combo. Hooking the 4.5 crank could be difficult.

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Thank you for your input. I have 2 four link cars and both are capable of big tires. So hooking should not be a problem. I'm looking to drive the car little more on the street but would like to run 5.0 index when I do race.

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Life begins at 20lbs of boost...

Me, simpilest way to get your project off the ground is too keep it simple. A procharger will do that.

If you go to a crank driven unit, you can run a stock water pump and keep most of you normal brackets and such...

Now if 1300hp is your limit, a 470 with an F1R pushed pretty hard will exceed that, meaning race gas or water injection. A 470 with an F2 will do that easy on pump gas...So a 4.15 crank and the best pistons & rings you can get. You start going above 520 cubes and you need a big air pump, and hp numbers get real big, but so do the expenses. A 572 can make +2000hp on pump gas....So cubes are really not needed. A good block heads, rods and pistons are...

Now I have researched this a bit, and New Era Racecraft I liked the best with a gear drive. You don't need a lot of cubes at 1300hp even on pump gas, but other custom things add up. So if a crank drive will fit with a split radiator set-up, or even a conventional side mount, they are easy to get going. Mopars like boost!

Boosted engines require better tech than some shops can provide, but read up on them. A well built engine will last...

http://www.neweraracecraft.com/engine-component-kits.html

(NER piston and ring packs) Stg 1P
Steve's development of piston and dish / dome profiles continues here at NER. As can be seen by the pictures on this site we use a multitude of crown designs, Flat tops, inverted domes, spherical dish, conical dish, button dish and a round dish. Different engines respond differently to the quench area we give it, the most noted is the BBCHRY's. As with most all of our items we sell, it comes from the school of hard knocks, there was a problem, we work to find the solution, we test it, then we sell it.

The other thing you will see in our pistons is they are hard anodized. This is the same procedure done to the Nitro pistons, it makes the pistons very tuff and it is NOT a coating like ceramic or Teflon skirts. Minor misses in tune up that would have lifted a ring land are totally eliminated, skirts are less appt to collapse and wont scuff, unless your tune up is so far out in right field you can't be seen.

Third thing is the ring pack. We sell all our pistons with Total Seal steel tops, Napier seconds and varying oil rings, depending on the application we may use a Dyke ring, 1/16 std style ring, .043" in the tops. Radial wall thickness may vary too but in general we are looking for a bullet proof ring pack so std D wall will apply in most cases. 4th we only use Nickel carbon steel alloy Pins in applications above 1200HP and below we use a high carbon Pin. No std cheap Pins that come with shelf pistons.

If you want the right pistons, the right crown design, and the right ring pack, you need NER's.

NER piston ring packs are $1,450.00 for most applications, and are made for us by J.E. and Diamond.

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I build a lot of 3600lb 8 second blow thru street cars. Pump gas on the street c-16 at the track. You can't go wrong with a blow thru f-2. Don't put to much stroke in it, its not a turbo.

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I build a lot of 3600lb 8 second blow thru street cars. Pump gas on the street c-16 at the track. You can't go wrong with a blow thru f-2. Don't put to much stroke in it, its not a turbo.

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Since I already have 2 motors with 4.50 strokes, will it hurt the performance or just not help?

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I build a lot of 3600lb 8 second blow thru street cars. Pump gas on the street c-16 at the track. You can't go wrong with a blow thru f-2. Don't put to much stroke in it, its not a turbo.

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Since I already have 2 motors with 4.50 strokes, will it hurt the performance or just not help?

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I'm not a fan of long strokes. I like short strokes, and big bores. piston speed boosted makes it tough to control the ring package.

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I build a lot of 3600lb 8 second blow thru street cars. Pump gas on the street c-16 at the track. You can't go wrong with a blow thru f-2. Don't put to much stroke in it, its not a turbo.

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Just curious, why run c-16 at the track? I was informed that there are plenty that run 1,200 hp turbo/supercharged apps with 10.5:1 compression on pump gas only.

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I build a lot of 3600lb 8 second blow thru street cars. Pump gas on the street c-16 at the track. You can't go wrong with a blow thru f-2. Don't put to much stroke in it, its not a turbo.

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Just curious, why run c-16 at the track? I was informed that there are plenty that run 1,200 hp turbo/supercharged apps with 10.5:1 compression on pump gas only.

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I build a lot of 3600lb 8 second blow thru street cars. Pump gas on the street c-16 at the track. You can't go wrong with a blow thru f-2. Don't put to much stroke in it, its not a turbo.

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Just curious, why run c-16 at the track? I was informed that there are plenty that run 1,200 hp turbo/supercharged apps with 10.5:1 compression on pump gas only.

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non intercooled. If you want to add the weight and the plumbing for a A/A or A/W intercooler then yes.

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Awesome! I didn't realize you could make that much power at that compression ratio with just an intercooler on pump gas with no meth, etc.

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Thank you for your input and help.
I have been leaning towards my 583 B1MC motor and changing pistons and cam and adding a F2 gear drive or side slinger with no inter cooler.

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I agree on your choice on the Pro charger, which fuel do you wan to use on the street? If E85 is doable then forget the intercooler, if gasoline I would run a water to air intercoller and use ice in it as needed As far as street motor on gasoline I have built several hemi with roots type superchargers, 10:71 with both EFI and dual dominator carbs, 1300 HP was reach with a lot of work out of a 499 C.I. motor on race gas with Motech EFI The larger B1-MC motor with the right compression ratio should make as much or real close to the same HP per C.I. as the Hemiroids did, intercooling can help a bunch when it comes to using and compressing air for your motor IHTHs

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I'm partial to P/charger.

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Thank you for your input and help.
I have been leaning towards my 583 B1MC motor and changing pistons and cam and adding a F2 gear drive or side slinger with no inter cooler.

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I agree on your choice on the Pro charger, which fuel do you wan to use on the street? If E85 is doable then forget the intercooler, if gasoline I would run a water to air intercoller and use ice in it as needed As far as street motor on gasoline I have built several hemi with roots type superchargers, 10:71 with both EFI and dual dominator carbs, 1300 HP was reach with a lot of work out of a 499 C.I. motor on race gas with Motech EFI The larger B1-MC motor with the right compression ratio should make as much or real close to the same HP per C.I. as the Hemiroids did, intercooling can help a bunch when it comes to using and compressing air for your motor IHTHs

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Thank you for your input Cab and Big Times. I respect what you have done and believe that both of your knowledge has great value. I will be posting more questions and updates as I go. The build will include E 85 since it is local get buy.

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I have both combos, I ran a f-2 cog side slinger for the last 5 years making 24lbs no issues. now I have the gear driven chris alston drive.

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I'm partial to P/charger.

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Man that thing is sweet......and really fast.

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the problems with the supercharger store gear drives is not the quality or reliability its the fact that you need special gears for them and they do not make all of the accessory drives.

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I have both combos, I ran a f-2 cog side slinger for the last 5 years making 24lbs no issues. now I have the gear driven chris alston drive.

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Not mine
http://detroit.craigslist.org/wyn/pts/4557516567.html

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I wish I had a hemi to put it on.

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I have both combos, I ran a f-2 cog side slinger for the last 5 years making 24lbs no issues. now I have the gear driven chris alston drive.

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Hi Bob, since your car is for sale any chance you want to sell your side slinger set up? If so please pm a price and what it includes. I want to try a couple of Josh's races but know I can't get it done NA. My Dart is perfectly set up with a stock fire wall and bolt on strut/k member.

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I have both combos, I ran a f-2 cog side slinger for the last 5 years making 24lbs no issues. now I have the gear driven chris alston drive.

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Hi Bob, since your car is for sale any chance you want to sell your side slinger set up? If so please pm a price and what it includes. I want to try a couple of Josh's races but know I can't get it done NA. My Dart is perfectly set up with a stock fire wall and bolt on strut/k member.

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sorry my car is not for sale, that was a joke. The side slinger engine and blower is sitting here in the shop as a spare.

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Well if your not selling your car and you continue to race Josh's races I have less desire to race there. It would be like taking a knife to a gun fight!
Lol

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I have both combos, I ran a f-2 cog side slinger for the last 5 years making 24lbs no issues. now I have the gear driven chris alston drive.

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Hi Bob, since your car is for sale any chance you want to sell your side slinger set up? If so please pm a price and what it includes. I want to try a couple of Josh's races but know I can't get it done NA. My Dart is perfectly set up with a stock fire wall and bolt on strut/k member.

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sorry my car is not for sale, that was a joke. The side slinger engine and blower is sitting here in the shop as a spare.

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Well if your not selling your car and you continue to race Josh's races I have less desire to race there. It would be like taking a knife to a gun fight!
Lol

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I have both combos, I ran a f-2 cog side slinger for the last 5 years making 24lbs no issues. now I have the gear driven chris alston drive.

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Hi Bob, since your car is for sale any chance you want to sell your side slinger set up? If so please pm a price and what it includes. I want to try a couple of Josh's races but know I can't get it done NA. My Dart is perfectly set up with a stock fire wall and bolt on strut/k member.

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sorry my car is not for sale, that was a joke. The side slinger engine and blower is sitting here in the shop as a spare.

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Well if your not selling your car and you continue to race Josh's races I have less desire to race there. It would be like taking a knife to a gun fight!
Lol

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that's not true, I have yet to win one of those races. first one I got a flat in the final and the last one I broke a trans on the second qualifier.
remember we race cars not time slips!

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That's very true. I have a feeling that you have addressed your weak links and your car will haul the mail!

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I have both combos, I ran a f-2 cog side slinger for the last 5 years making 24lbs no issues. now I have the gear driven chris alston drive.

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If there were no issues, can I ask why you changed.??

Just curious, because seems like a lot of work to move the radiator etc..



Chris..

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I have both combos, I ran a f-2 cog side slinger for the last 5 years making 24lbs no issues. now I have the gear driven chris alston drive.

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If there were no issues, can I ask why you changed.??

Just curious, because seems like a lot of work to move the radiator etc..



Chris..

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I am pretty much leaning toward a procharger for the 499. It has the block, crank (Bryant A fuel with 2 1/4" slots), and heads and is 4.470 bore and under 4" stroke. I don't think a crank gear driven unit is a good maych for the car but a side mount may work. Where can I get details about mounting the unit, the pulleys and also accessory drive for the vac pump and the alt? Needs to be compatible with a Jesel cam drive, ATI balancer (will get the keyway slots), motor plate, Indy reverse flow and elec water pump. The driver side of the front of the motor is wide open except for the stock oil filter location (but a big pump and cover).

What does the blower mount on?

What would be a good manifold and how much carb? Now there is a tall single plane w/ Dominator and lotsa NOS plumbing. The B1 heads are on a short deck KB block.

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Big Time is a distributor for Procharger and has a proven car. I will be using him when I am ready. It will cut down on the learning curve which can be very expensive.

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mine is a 606 cuin hemi 700 lift roller cam 11.9 to 1 pump gas stage V hemi, makes about 880 - 900 on motor( 9.60s at 142) in a 3910 lb street car drive it any where any time has 2 foggers on it right now runs 8.90s at 156mph on a little 200 hp tune up so its around 1100 hp that combo has been together since 2007 !!!!!!! mabe ill turn it up on some race gas this year !!

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Even on the 200 shot you can run pump 93 with nothing else?

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I am pretty much leaning toward a procharger for the 499. It has the block, crank (Bryant A fuel with 2 1/4" slots), and heads and is 4.470 bore and under 4" stroke. I don't think a crank gear driven unit is a good maych for the car but a side mount may work. Where can I get details about mounting the unit, the pulleys and also accessory drive for the vac pump and the alt? Needs to be compatible with a Jesel cam drive, ATI balancer (will get the keyway slots), motor plate, Indy reverse flow and elec water pump. The driver side of the front of the motor is wide open except for the stock oil filter location (but a big pump and cover).

What does the blower mount on?

What would be a good manifold and how much carb? Now there is a tall single plane w/ Dominator and lotsa NOS plumbing. The B1 heads are on a short deck KB block.

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Big Time is a distributor for Procharger and has a proven car. I will be using him when I am ready. It will cut down on the learning curve which can be very expensive.

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I am pretty much leaning toward a procharger for the 499. It has the block, crank (Bryant A fuel with 2 1/4" slots), and heads and is 4.470 bore and under 4" stroke. I don't think a crank gear driven unit is a good maych for the car but a side mount may work. Where can I get details about mounting the unit, the pulleys and also accessory drive for the vac pump and the alt? Needs to be compatible with a Jesel cam drive, ATI balancer (will get the keyway slots), motor plate, Indy reverse flow and elec water pump. The driver side of the front of the motor is wide open except for the stock oil filter location (but a big pump and cover).

What does the blower mount on?

What would be a good manifold and how much carb? Now there is a tall single plane w/ Dominator and lotsa NOS plumbing. The B1 heads are on a short deck KB block.

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Big Time is a distributor for Procharger and has a proven car. I will be using him when I am ready. It will cut down on the learning curve which can be very expensive.

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Why? He won't answer messages. Strange cause I am wanting a F2 on my BB and have the dough. Is this a Moparts thing or just me? Is the process to just drop off your car many states away and just wait to be told to come and get it when they are done and here is the bill?

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I just check my machine and there is no messages back to work I go

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I have both combos, I ran a f-2 cog side slinger for the last 5 years making 24lbs no issues. now I have the gear driven chris alston drive.

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Dude awesome car, so awesome I see Fred in the back ground checking it out