I received the .020 idle feed restrictors this afternoon. I installed them and put the carb back together, only now it wont idle on it's own I think I put a metering block gasket on wrong or crooked.
But I did hold the throttle steady at about 2500 rpm and I watched the hedders and they started to glow red again. Before doing that I took all my plugs out and I had 2 fouled plugs.
So I put 2 new plugs in it tonight. I will tear into it tomorrow and try to figure out why it wont idle, I am 90 percent sure it has something to do with a metering block gasket blocking something off because they came off with the metering block and I had to put them back on in the dark with a flash light.
I have been wondering and I don't know if this is possible but I think it might be, do you think my high speed air bleeds are too small and that is allowin the mains to come on faster then they should? and do you think that could contribute to the extremely rich mixture I have at fast idle? That's the only other thing I can think of, unless .020 idle feed restrictors are too big. But that's the smalles idle feed restrictor quick fuel sells.

""unless .020 idle feed restrictors are too big. But that's the smalles idle feed restrictor quick fuel sells""
""I received the .020 idle feed restrictors this afternoon. I installed them/now it wont idle on it's own/But I did hold the throttle steady at about 2500 rpm and I watched the hedders and they started to glow red again.""
""Before doing that I took all my plugs out and I had 2 fouled plugs.""
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Which side is the header glowing red, or is it both sides?
Which cylinders have the fouled plugs? Is it always the same locations?
I think that there is a reason why QF does not sell any IFR's below .020.

Since you have used .020-.033 IFR's and you are still getting glowing header(s) at 2500rpms (while using 64 main jets), I am leaning towards the issues that you are having are not carb related.
You might start a new thread asking about your glowing headers at 2500rpms. If you have a leaking intake gasket (between the head and the intake), this could cause the intake to be sucking in air causing a lean condition (red header(s)). This same issue could cause the exhaust to pop and also certain plugs to be "oil-fouled" (not fuel fouled). I just suggest that you take a step back and make sure that there is nothing besides the carb that could be causing the glowing header issue.

Are the fouled plugs always the same cylinders? If so, maybe you have bad spark plugs wires that are not firing which could cause those cylinders to be filling with fuel causing the red headers. The bad wires could also cause the popping out the exhaust too. Ohm out the wires on the cylinders which you are finding the fouled plugs to see what they measure.

Your earlier post stated your timing is 15* initial plus you have constant vacuum hooked to the vac advance giving you 30* at idle. That is too much timing and is probably the cause of your popping at idle, not a lean mixture. Remove the vac source and plug it so your back to 15* initial and see if your idle popping stops. 20* timing at idle is max for any small block and a mild cam like yours is more like 15*.

No it is not the same plugs that are becoming fouled. And they are not oil fouled, they are fuel fouled, They look just like the inside of a chimney. Normally there is a plug fouled on each side. Both sides of the hedders are glowing, mainly the 2 middle pipes on each hedder.
The plugs that were fouled yesterday were plug 6 and plug 7.
I removed all of my plug wires and they all ohm out at 40 ohms of resistance per foot, I jut got these plug wires for Christmas and they have maybe 500 miles on them, MAYBE.
Tonight I am going to take out the high speed air bleeds and start it and let it idle on the fast idle circuit and see what happens. If they still light up I will remove the vaccum advance from the manifold source and put it on the ported source, altho I don't see how this could cause the hedders to glow, at 2000 to 2500 rpm the distributer is going to see the same amount of vaccum from the manifold port and ported port on the carb.
If it still does it after this I'm going to buy a wideband even though I really cant afford it and wait until I get it and then I will get it hooked up and i'll be able to tell you guys what the wideband says the mixture is.
I really think this is fuel related, the plugs look black and sooty just like the inside of a chimney looks like. I did another compression test with the engine warm and ignition dis-abled and the carb all the way open and every cylinder reads 150 psi.
If the high speed air bleeds aren't the cause of this then I give up and will get a wideband. I am starting to think that maybe the high speed air bleeds are allowing the mains to come inn to soon which is adding fuel to the idle circuit while it's idling on the fast idle. I have read that the .028 high speed air bleeds are actually quite small and make the mains come on pretty quick. I'm going to put smaller main jets in and see if that changes anything too, if it does then that might indicate that the high speed air bleeds are coming on too soon.
I have checked for vaccum leaks, I can not find one. All of my vaccum lines are brand new, my intake manifold gasket is brand new and my intake manifold is brand new and I checked it for flatness with a straight edge. I have sprayed carb cleaner with the engine idling all around the intake manifold and the carburetor and I don't hear a change in the idle.

I agree that the .028 HSAB's are fairly rich! Mine came stock with .033's. I now run .033/.036's. It sounds like you have checked everything else out! Let us know what you find with the leaner bleeds and just test the bleeds first before swapping jets. Keep it at one change at a time so you know for sure what makes a difference.

Iv'e come to the conclusion that my engine wont idle with the .020 idle feed restrictors.
I have to sit there and keep it running with the gas pedal, it will not idle. And I took both metering blocks off and put the gaskets back on perfectly and put the metering blocks back on perfectly and it wont idle on it's own.
And I noticed the hedders were still glowing red with the .020 idle feed restrictors last night when I was keeping it running at 2500 rpm, I had to hood popped and my door open and I stood up and looked at the hedders and they were still glowing! so I think this is something else, not the idle circuit.
The only other thing I can think of are high speed bleeds and or main jets. So I am thinking tonight I will put the .030 idle feed restrictors in it that I had bought a few days ago along with the .075 idle air bleeds. And see what happens.
My guess is that this combo will let it idle on it's own and I will re-set the idle mixture screw to best vaccum in drive with tires blocked. Then I will remove the high speed bleeds which will delay when the main circuit kicks inn and see what happens from there.

if it does turn out being the high speed air bleeds which size should I try to run YO7? I was thinking maybe .030's or .031's.

You found that the .020's are way too lean if you could not keep it idling. Good test.
There is not much difference between the .030's and the .031's. I would say just pick one.
I think you found that it idled fairly well on .065 IAB's. If so, then I would go with that.
Lets say that you test the .030 IFR's and the .065 IAB's. If this idles well, then start with changing the HSAB's. Get it idling again first at your normal idle rpm, then move on to leaning out the HSAB's.h
Lets say that the .028 HSAB's are too rich which are bringing on your mains too soon. This may be what is causing the rich condition (as long as the plug wires are good, there are no vacuum or intake leaks). I would make a guess at low to mid 30's on the HSAB's for your test.
You just need to keep testing!

Note: My .033 HSAB's bring my mains in right around the 2500-2700rpm range. Remember that the main jets and the MAB's are a team and they work together. One could be fine while the other could be off. I would suggest leave the 64's in there and lean out the .028's.

Ok I'm feeling very optimistic right now, I'm just waiting for it to get dark to see if removing the high speed air bleeds fixes this issue. I don't have any high speed air bleeds to test with, so removing them is all I can do at the moment. But I installed the .030 idle feed restrictors along with the .075 idle air bleeds. I fired it up and it would idle on it's own now. The .020 idle feed restrictors were obviously way too small because it would not run on it's own.
With the .030 ifr's and .075 iab's I set the mixture screws to the best vaccum reading with the transmission in drive and the tires blocked. After that I hit the throttle a few times and I found that it cut out and felt and sounded a little lean right around 1500 to 2000 rpm. So I took the .075 iab's out and I put some .070 iab's inn and re-set the idle mixture screws to the best vaccum reading in drive with tires blocked, this came out to be exactly 1 turn out on each mixture screw. I hit the throttle a few times and it didn't sound lean and didn't cut out. So I think the ifr's and iab's are real close. Then I gave it some throttle while watching the boosters with my air cleaner off and I noticed that the boosters start to drip fuel pretty fast, I'd say around 2000 to 2200 rpm. And that's when it starts loading up and popping and when that is happening I can feel the heat coming from the hedders. So I hope I am correct in thinking that the high speed bleeds were too small allowing the mains to come on way too soon. It should be dark in about an hour and I will go out and see what it does with the high speed bleeds removed.

I am extremely happy to announce that I found the culprit to the overly rich mixture at fast idle, from 1500 rpm to 2500 rpm. It was indeed the high speed air bleeds, for the most part. I removed all 4 high speed air bleeds and waited until it got dark. Fired it up with the choke/fast idle on and I let it idle for about 5 minutes on the fast idle. I heard a few faint pops out the exhaust here and there, but nothing compared to how it was before. I decided to look at the hedders after about 5 minutes of it idling on the fast idle.
On the drivers side nothing was glowing at all, on the passenger side the two last hedder pipes running off of cylinder 6 and 8 were slightly showing a little bit of red, it wasn't glowing bright orange like it was when the high speed bleeds were in place, but you could see a little red, not glowing, but you could see it. So that leads me to believe the idle circuit is a little on the rich side with the .030 idle feed restrictors and the .070 idle air bleeds.
I was thinking I would order one more .028 idle feed restrictor because I have 3 .028 idle feed restrictors I broke the fourth one. And some .033 and some .035 high speed air bleeds. Then I was thinking when that arrived I would install all four .028 idle feed restrictors along with the .070 idle air bleeds and then install the .033 high speed bleeds and see what that does.
With the high speed bleeds completely removed, I had to of been idling strictly on the idle feed restrictors and the idle air bleeds tonight with it on the fast idle, and for 2 of the hedder pipes on cylinder 6 and 8 to slightly light up red shows me I have the idle mixture a tad too rich. So I think going with the .028 idle feed restrictors and the bigger .033 high speed air bleeds is a step in the right direction. I will also check my plugs before firing it up again to make sure I didn't foul any. I only ran it for about 10 minutes total today, but it doesn't take much to foul a plug in my expierence.

Good job testing!

Now you may want to test something that was mentioned by Jeremiah:
""At 4200 ft above sea level I usually start out with .075 or .080 IAB's in the Quickfuel stuff.""

Your IAB's will affect the A/F ratio way up into after the main circuit is starting in. If you have some larger IAB's or you have some drill bits, I would test the above statement. You could just put some larger IAB's up on the Primary side for testing if you only want to drill out a pair. Then if it works, then drill out a second pair for the secondary side.
I would suggest leaving in the .030 IFR's and start testing with the larger IAB's. If it starts good, and it gets rid of the glowing headers, then you are doing the same as if you were swapping in smaller IFRS. As long as your metering screws don't get too far out with the larger IAB's, you should be fine.

It would still be a good idea to buy the .036/.039ish sizes of MAB's for your testing too. You could also test with some smaller main jets than your current 64's since you found removing the MAB's leaned out the issue.

Nice job! You have put in allot of effort to try and figure this out. Some people would have just bought another carb instead of blaming their own lack of effort. Since you are at a much higher altitude than most, you have a little extra hurdle to jump.
I just hope you are keeping good notes! You will be flying through this tuning crapt once you get your wideband kit one day.

well like I sad I'm fighting this fight at 1500 to 2500 rpm because my plugs were fouling out so quickly. And when you have it on the fast idle just as the choke opens and you can hear it popping and banging out the exhaust and when you pop the hood at night and see your hedders glowing that's whats got me fighting this fight with this thing.
I did install the .075 idle air bleeds with the .030 idle feed restrictors and it caused a little bit of a lean spot around 1500 rpm. that's why I went down to .070 on the idle air bleeds. But I will put the .075 idle air bleeds back in it tonight and see if that makes the last 2 hedders pipes not light up at all.

What size drill bit would I need to drill out the .028 high speed air bleeds to .033's? Does anyone know? I'm inpatient and don't want to wait 3 days for the bleeds to arrive that I ordered yesterday.

I need a drill bit size 66 to make a .033 high speed air bleed. which of course I don't have and neither does any of the part stores or hardware stores in my area. The smallest drill bit I have is a .059, I measured it with my digital calipers and it comes out to .039
So I can make .039 high speed bleeds. Which will probly be too lean, but I was thinking if I jetted up the primary jets to 65's it might be ok. I have some 65 main jets I could put in there. And I could take it for a test run this way and see if there is any issues.
I just wish I could get the .033 and .035 high speed bleeds I ordered faster.

Definitely test the .039 HSAB's but don't sweat changing from the 64 to 65 jets (just yet).
ONE CHANGE AT A TIME!

Note: I don't think that they would be too lean in your case. I swap back and fourth from .036 to .039's on my secondaries as the outside temps change to tune my WOT A/F readings.

McMasterCarr.com is your friend. They have drill bits in all of the small sizes that you will need. I bought a dozen or so from them so that I could drill out my IFR's/IAB's/ and MAB's.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-drill-bits/=t0eh03

well I had the 63 main jets in it, So I drilled out the .028 high speed bleeds to .039 on all 4. I installed the .075 idle air bleeds and re-set idle mixture screws to best vaccum reading with transmission in drive and tires blocked. I installed the 65 main jets because I was worried the .039 high speed bleeds would be too lean.
once I got it warmed up I opened the throttle while I was under the hood with the air cleaner off and I seen fuel start to drip from the boosters at about 2200 rpm, And before with the .028 high speed bleeds it seemed like it was coming inn at around 1600 to 1800 rpm.
So my set up is this, 65 main jets, 74 secondary jets. .030 idle feed restrictors and .075 idle air bleeds. ,039 high speed bleeds. .031 accelerator pump nozzle, white pump cam on number one setting. Float level is at bottom of sight glass when engine is running. All 4 mixture screws are about 1.25 turns out from fully seated.
So hopefully this is close, I'm going to take it for a drive tonight and see how it feels. Oh and I took all my plugs out again to check them and plug number 5 had some black sooty looking stuff on the plug but it wasn't fouled. So I have 8 fresh plugs in it gapped at .045

Make sure to get us an update!

well I drove it around last night and I didn't really know what to think. It seemed to be a little lean in that spot of the throttle between the idle circuit/ main circuit. I noticed I had to give it quite a bit more throttle to take off when pulling out on the highway.
I'm sure this is due to the delay in the mains coming inn because of the larger high speed bleeds. While cruising around town on the idle circuit it felt pretty good, I think the .075 idle air bleeds might be a little too big. The idle air bleed controls how fast the fuel flows thru the idle circuit and the idle feed restrictors control how much correct? I think I'm in need of the .028 ifr's that I ordered. Because like I said with the high speed bleeds completely removed and with the engine idling on the fast idle circuit the last 2 hedders pipes by cylinder 6 and 8 were slightly showing a little red. So I think .028 ifr's will eliminate the hedders lighting up at all and I have some smaller .065 and some .063 idle air bleeds to work with once I install the .028 ifr's.