Curious if anyone is running 14" brake rotors and how they worked out for wheel sizing and feel.
Whos kit and price would be nice too..

I have been looking at the Bear 14" with the 6P calipers, but they are $2,400+ each end.

Oz and Feets made their own from Mercedes rotors and Calipers. I believe 72Swinger used an AndyF kit or made his own utilizing Viper calipers. From my reading, 18" wheels are a tight fit and may require the outside edge of the rotors to be turned down to bring the calipers in a little.

I run an srt rotor and viper gen 3 caliper with a bracket Dr diff had at one time. It's a killer setup with a hydroboost and 11.75 rear discs.

I have 14" brakes off the front end of the gen 3 & 4 vipers. 4-piston brembos and 14" rotors. Brakes feel great, stops NOW and inspires confidence in your ability to stop short when needed. Pedal modulation to avoid lock-up is easy. Snd despite efforts to heat them up with repeated hard stops, I've not experienced brake fade yet.

Wheel size, I doubt you could fit 17" wheels over these, never tried myself though. 18" is probably the safe minimum diameter.

I wouldn't go bigger than 14" rotors unless I bought super expensive aluminum hubs with bolt on rotor surface area to reduce weight. These stock viper rotors weigh around 30lbs each.

Nice setup. I'd like to know more about your mounting brackets, and which spindle you're using. Along with the hub set-up

So I notice here for almost the first time in a decade, a brake size discussion "of mine are bigger then yours" on brakes that includes more then a mere suggestion on the package weight. We have actually made progress.

To bad its a little more complicated to include MOI in casual rotor discussions since diameter is such a factor.

The mounting system is designed to handle different rotor diameters. You just add a spacer to move the caliper up to go from 13 to 14 to 15 inches.

If you look in the archives you'll see a couple of magazine articles that I wrote on Tim's Valiant. We put a 13 inch Baer 6P kit on his Valiant and it works fine. Tim's car is road raced and has 150+ mph capability so it is very fast for a vintage Mopar. We could've gone 14 inch or 15 inch on the rotor size but there wasn't any reason to do so. The 13 inch rotors do the job from 150 so why go bigger. A 14 inch rotor does give you a little more leverage and a little more surface area and perhaps some additional head sink. I doubt that very many guys on here have a car that is fast enough to require a 14 inch rotor but nothing wrong with putting them on a car if you have the cash and don't mind spending it.

I suspect that brake technology has progressed in pretty big strides lately, in the area of pads/fluids. I have been around racing applications since discs (solid) were introduced. And surprisingly Nascar had to wait for the technology to progress enough before they became a user. That said, and I have said before, any un ducted brake system that can lock a tire in use, and doesn't fade, in competition should be considered over capacity in whatever way you choose to measure. Racers have for decades added ducting/blowers to be able to reduce the size of the heat sink, and all the benefits that reduced heat sink provides. I am doubtful many here are experiencing brake fade with a properly set-up brake system ( balanced correctly, correct pads for application, fresh bleed fluid). Anybody suffering severe brake fade has a problem with their brake system, or it s undersized for the application, or their driving technique might be in need of improvement. The only way to actually determine that, is to push the system to point of approaching brake fade. That should not be hard to do, if the system is balanced properly, concerning suspension, F/R, HP, etc. If that fade is difficult to achieve, ducting will provide more then enough safety margin for one's peace of mind, if it the can't, something is not in balance and you have brake system overkill, to a proven performance detriment. I have heard others say that brake ducting is difficult, well only if you haven't tried, and F1 aero is not a big concern. Anything is a lot better then nothing. I also get a kick out of the bigger brakes givening better modulation crowd, well if you are braking at 100% thresholds at over 100mph with the typical cars here, you are first 1 in 1000? and can't be gaining much insight on this forum. If you are running under 100mph and or autocross, your oversize brakes are costing you time.

FWIW at the recent optima Daytona,less then 1/3 of the cars had brake ducting, which for a competition event seemed rather strange, it was hot, it was long, and Daytona was/is likely one of the faster courses in the series. No way to find out reliability what factor brake fade played, on most of the big brake cars. remember it is 3+ miles long, serious banking, and possible to hit 160mph.

I think the last paragraph is fairly accurate, and I'm sure there will some disagreement on how to interpret my observation.

I think any of the disc brake setups will be lighter than the 11x3" drums that are on my car now.

What is the difference with the spindles?
I know I need to change the spindles, but which is better in a '69 Coronet?

I use the taller (and lighter) FMJ knuckles on everything I build.

Mine are same as Wades in the front except for color.

So what about the rear brakes?
I have a stock Dana 60 with the tapered wheel bearings.

Doctor Diff has what you need.