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Mcleod twin disc clutch trouble #1637645
06/23/14 07:58 PM
06/23/14 07:58 PM
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clarks summit pa
73cuda340 Offline OP
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I just put a new Mcleod twin disc clutch in my cuda. No matter where I adjust the clutch on the adjusting rod, it wants to go overcenter. I cant even drive the car, that's how far out the adjustment is. I measured everything with feeler gauges when installing and according to the instruction sheet they were within tolerance. The only way I can get the clutch to not go overcenter is if I have the rod backed off almost the entire way, but then the pedal is about a little past quarter way from the floor when its all the way up. All the linkage is brand new, new z bar and all new bushings too so nothing is worn out. Has anybody else had any problems with these? It has been nothing but a problem since I bought it.


1973 Cuda 528 all aluminum Hemi, 4 speed, 3.23 Sure-Grip, (JA5) Silver Frost Metallic 1973 Challenger Rallye 340 1985 W150 Power Ram prospector 1986 Camaro IROC-Z 305 tpi
Re: Mcleod twin disc clutch trouble [Re: 73cuda340] #1637646
06/23/14 08:46 PM
06/23/14 08:46 PM
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Missouri U.S.A.
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71yelladustr Offline
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May have to remove the large over-center spring on the pedal assembly. I had to do this on my duster so the clutch had some "feel" to it after I put the Mcleod DD in.


392 gen III hemi on E-85 727 trans Dana 60
10.02@134
Re: Mcleod twin disc clutch trouble [Re: 71yelladustr] #1637647
06/23/14 08:55 PM
06/23/14 08:55 PM
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Quote:

May have to remove the large over-center spring on the pedal assembly. I had to do this on my duster so the clutch had some "feel" to it after I put the Mcleod DD in.






Agreed,if the over center spring is present, it's got to go

Re: Mcleod twin disc clutch trouble [Re: 71yelladustr] #1637648
06/23/14 08:56 PM
06/23/14 08:56 PM
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clarks summit pa
73cuda340 Offline OP
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Quote:

May have to remove the large over-center spring on the pedal assembly. I had to do this on my duster so the clutch had some "feel" to it after I put the Mcleod DD in.




I tried both. When I removed the overcenter spring it was even worse. The clutch pedal wouldn't return to the top, only part way. You would have to pull it back up.


1973 Cuda 528 all aluminum Hemi, 4 speed, 3.23 Sure-Grip, (JA5) Silver Frost Metallic 1973 Challenger Rallye 340 1985 W150 Power Ram prospector 1986 Camaro IROC-Z 305 tpi
Re: Mcleod twin disc clutch trouble [Re: 73cuda340] #1637649
06/23/14 10:32 PM
06/23/14 10:32 PM
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Niles , Ohio
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therocks Offline
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Do you have a small return spring on the fork?It should have one.Rocky


Chrysler Firepower
Re: Mcleod twin disc clutch trouble [Re: therocks] #1637650
06/23/14 10:58 PM
06/23/14 10:58 PM
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I am running one in my 69RR with the over spring removed and no issues here.

Re: Mcleod twin disc clutch trouble [Re: therocks] #1637651
06/24/14 01:13 AM
06/24/14 01:13 AM
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clarks summit pa
73cuda340 Offline OP
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Quote:

Do you have a small return spring on the fork?It should have one.Rocky




Yes it has the small return spring. It's brand new but it still isn't enough to pull the pedal up. Even if it did pull it all the way back, I still have basically no pedal until it is almost at the floor.


1973 Cuda 528 all aluminum Hemi, 4 speed, 3.23 Sure-Grip, (JA5) Silver Frost Metallic 1973 Challenger Rallye 340 1985 W150 Power Ram prospector 1986 Camaro IROC-Z 305 tpi
Re: Mcleod twin disc clutch trouble [Re: 73cuda340] #1637652
06/24/14 04:08 PM
06/24/14 04:08 PM
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Niwot, CO Formerly denn...
dynorad Offline
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I put a twin disc in my GTX. I removed the over center, and added a new spring to the fork that pulls everything back upon clutch engagement. I fabbed a bracket (I think it bolts to the block or bell) for the front end and used a cushioned stainless P clamp over the end of the adjustment rod.
Works great.

Re: Mcleod twin disc clutch trouble [Re: 73cuda340] #1637653
06/24/14 06:11 PM
06/24/14 06:11 PM
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Rittman Ohio
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Have you adjusted the free-play until the pedal is hard at the top yet? Then back it off till you have about one inch of free-play at the top. After you do that then check your plate departure and install a positive stop so you don't put the fingers into the springs on the disc.
If you can't adjust it to zero free-play then something is wrong with your linkage or you need to adjust your spacing on the release bearing
Gus


64 Plymouth Savoy
493 Indy EZ's by Nick at Compu-Flow
5-Speed Richmond faceplate Liberty box
Dana 60
Re: Mcleod twin disc clutch trouble [Re: fourgearsavoy] #1637654
06/24/14 06:52 PM
06/24/14 06:52 PM
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clarks summit pa
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Quote:

Have you adjusted the free-play until the pedal is hard at the top yet? Then back it off till you have about one inch of free-play at the top. After you do that then check your plate departure and install a positive stop so you don't put the fingers into the springs on the disc.
If you can't adjust it to zero free-play then something is wrong with your linkage or you need to adjust your spacing on the release bearing
Gus




I adjusted it for the one inch of free play and the clutch was going overcenter and actually beginning to re-engage the further you pushed the pedal down. The only way I can keep it from going overcenter is when the pedal is adjusted where its about only 2 inches from the floor. The linkage on the car is fine, its all brand new and the same exact setup I used on the other clutch that I had in my car and everything worked perfectly fine.


1973 Cuda 528 all aluminum Hemi, 4 speed, 3.23 Sure-Grip, (JA5) Silver Frost Metallic 1973 Challenger Rallye 340 1985 W150 Power Ram prospector 1986 Camaro IROC-Z 305 tpi
Re: Mcleod twin disc clutch trouble [Re: 73cuda340] #1637655
06/24/14 10:12 PM
06/24/14 10:12 PM
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Valley of the sun, AZ
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2JcodeChargers Offline
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I had some initial troubles with this clutch in my 68 Hemi Charger. I was using a Lakewood scatter shield. In this application the pivot for the clutch fork had to be moved back and the hole for the fork had to be enlarged for the clutch to work. These clutches are much thicker than a stock type clutch and you just have to make the room for the fork/throwout bearing.
You didn't mention what you are using for a bell housing so I thought this might help.

Re: Mcleod twin disc clutch trouble [Re: 2JcodeChargers] #1637656
06/24/14 11:53 PM
06/24/14 11:53 PM
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clarks summit pa
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just a stock bellhousing, but thanks


1973 Cuda 528 all aluminum Hemi, 4 speed, 3.23 Sure-Grip, (JA5) Silver Frost Metallic 1973 Challenger Rallye 340 1985 W150 Power Ram prospector 1986 Camaro IROC-Z 305 tpi
Re: Mcleod twin disc clutch trouble [Re: 73cuda340] #1637657
06/25/14 02:08 AM
06/25/14 02:08 AM
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West Coast, USA
jbc426 Offline
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How long are each of the arms on the Z-bar from the outside of the tube to the center of the rod pins?

How long is the throwout bearing release arm from the contact tips to clutch rod adjustment hole?

There are at least 3 different z-bars and clutch forks AND clutch fork pivot shapes for Mopars. It all depends on which ones you have. Identifying them by precise measurements and then running it by Brewers could be enlightening.

Last edited by jbc426; 06/25/14 01:14 PM.

1970 Plymouth 'Cuda #'s 440-6(block in storage)currently 493" 6 pack, Shaker, 5 speed Passon, 4.10's
1968 Plymouth Barracuda Convertible 408 Magnum EFI with 4 speed automatic overdrive, 3800 stall lock-up converter and 4.30's (closest thing to an automatic 5 speed going)
Re: Mcleod twin disc clutch trouble [Re: 73cuda340] #1637658
06/25/14 05:22 AM
06/25/14 05:22 AM
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Northern Calyfornua
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Sxrxrnr Offline
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Is this the same car that had what was initially suggested to have transmission linkage issues in a different thread last week?

Re: Mcleod twin disc clutch trouble [Re: 73cuda340] #1637659
06/25/14 05:58 PM
06/25/14 05:58 PM
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Rittman Ohio
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Quote:

Quote:

Have you adjusted the free-play until the pedal is hard at the top yet? Then back it off till you have about one inch of free-play at the top. After you do that then check your plate departure and install a positive stop so you don't put the fingers into the springs on the disc.
If you can't adjust it to zero free-play then something is wrong with your linkage or you need to adjust your spacing on the release bearing
Gus




I adjusted it for the one inch of free play and the clutch was going overcenter and actually beginning to re-engage the further you pushed the pedal down. The only way I can keep it from going overcenter is when the pedal is adjusted where its about only 2 inches from the floor. The linkage on the car is fine, its all brand new and the same exact setup I used on the other clutch that I had in my car and everything worked perfectly fine.



This is why I suggested a positive pedal stop. When I had a twin in my car I needed to install a stop because the fingers would actually touch the disc when the pedal was pushed all the way down.
I just adjusted the pedal stop so my air gap was .030 between the floater and the first disc.
Gus

8187505-savoyburnout.jpg (75 downloads)

64 Plymouth Savoy
493 Indy EZ's by Nick at Compu-Flow
5-Speed Richmond faceplate Liberty box
Dana 60
Re: Mcleod twin disc clutch trouble [Re: Sxrxrnr] #1637660
06/25/14 06:47 PM
06/25/14 06:47 PM
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clarks summit pa
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Quote:

Is this the same car that had what was initially suggested to have transmission linkage issues in a different thread last week?




Yes, this is the same car. Im chasing two problems at the same time which doesn't help. I believe that the clutch is what is causing my problem though. Im just trying to start with the clutch first and hopefully it takes care of my shifting problem too.


1973 Cuda 528 all aluminum Hemi, 4 speed, 3.23 Sure-Grip, (JA5) Silver Frost Metallic 1973 Challenger Rallye 340 1985 W150 Power Ram prospector 1986 Camaro IROC-Z 305 tpi
Re: Mcleod twin disc clutch trouble [Re: fourgearsavoy] #1637661
06/25/14 06:52 PM
06/25/14 06:52 PM
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clarks summit pa
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Quote:

Quote:

Quote:

Have you adjusted the free-play until the pedal is hard at the top yet? Then back it off till you have about one inch of free-play at the top. After you do that then check your plate departure and install a positive stop so you don't put the fingers into the springs on the disc.
If you can't adjust it to zero free-play then something is wrong with your linkage or you need to adjust your spacing on the release bearing
Gus




I adjusted it for the one inch of free play and the clutch was going overcenter and actually beginning to re-engage the further you pushed the pedal down. The only way I can keep it from going overcenter is when the pedal is adjusted where its about only 2 inches from the floor. The linkage on the car is fine, its all brand new and the same exact setup I used on the other clutch that I had in my car and everything worked perfectly fine.



This is why I suggested a positive pedal stop. When I had a twin in my car I needed to install a stop because the fingers would actually touch the disc when the pedal was pushed all the way down.
I just adjusted the pedal stop so my air gap was .030 between the floater and the first disc.
Gus




Whats involved in installing the positive stop for the pedal and where can I get one., Ive never seen one in person before. Im at work now so Im not sure on the measurements, but I ordered the big block E body Z bar from brewers when I was installing everything so Im hoping that I received the right one.


1973 Cuda 528 all aluminum Hemi, 4 speed, 3.23 Sure-Grip, (JA5) Silver Frost Metallic 1973 Challenger Rallye 340 1985 W150 Power Ram prospector 1986 Camaro IROC-Z 305 tpi
Re: Mcleod twin disc clutch trouble [Re: 73cuda340] #1637662
06/25/14 07:14 PM
06/25/14 07:14 PM
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Quote:

Quote:

Is this the same car that had what was initially suggested to have transmission linkage issues in a different thread last week?




Yes, this is the same car. Im chasing two problems at the same time which doesn't help. I believe that the clutch is what is causing my problem though. Im just trying to start with the clutch first and hopefully it takes care of my shifting problem too.






I've been somewhat sorry that I did not install a hydraulic clutch in my car while the engine was out a few months back. Have one in another car and feels much smoother, manageable and easier on my aging leg.

Last edited by Sxrxrnr; 06/25/14 07:15 PM.
Re: Mcleod twin disc clutch trouble [Re: 73cuda340] #1637663
06/25/14 09:28 PM
06/25/14 09:28 PM
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Rittman Ohio
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I used a piece of 3/8" threaded rod with some nuts and washers.Just mark the spot on the floor or firewall and drill a hole and insert threaded rod, adjust as necessary.
Just Google images of "clutch pedal stop" there are many options and some very good images of some better more technical designs than mine.
I just try to keep it lightweight and simple and used what I had in the scrap box
Gus

8187671-rearviewsavoy.jpg (107 downloads)

64 Plymouth Savoy
493 Indy EZ's by Nick at Compu-Flow
5-Speed Richmond faceplate Liberty box
Dana 60
Re: Mcleod twin disc clutch trouble [Re: fourgearsavoy] #1637664
06/25/14 11:12 PM
06/25/14 11:12 PM
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clarks summit pa
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ok thanks.


1973 Cuda 528 all aluminum Hemi, 4 speed, 3.23 Sure-Grip, (JA5) Silver Frost Metallic 1973 Challenger Rallye 340 1985 W150 Power Ram prospector 1986 Camaro IROC-Z 305 tpi
Re: Mcleod twin disc clutch trouble [Re: 73cuda340] #1637665
06/26/14 01:50 PM
06/26/14 01:50 PM
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A capscrew, 3/8" diameter is right, two nuts and two 3/8" fender washers will get the job done.
If the head of the capscrew is going to tear up the back of the pedal, a button headed capscrew won't.

R.

Re: Mcleod twin disc clutch trouble [Re: dogdays] #1637666
06/26/14 02:16 PM
06/26/14 02:16 PM
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I don't use the positive stop, but don't worry about how high up the clutch pedal sits. It is just slightly above the brake pedal at rest.

My other main concern, aside that it full disengages, it that the spring on the clutch throwout arm pulls the throw-out bearing off the clutch fingers when its released. Mine spring hooks conveniently to a bolt hole in my scattershield.

I also removed the overcenter spring.

Last edited by jbc426; 06/26/14 02:17 PM.

1970 Plymouth 'Cuda #'s 440-6(block in storage)currently 493" 6 pack, Shaker, 5 speed Passon, 4.10's
1968 Plymouth Barracuda Convertible 408 Magnum EFI with 4 speed automatic overdrive, 3800 stall lock-up converter and 4.30's (closest thing to an automatic 5 speed going)
Re: Mcleod twin disc clutch trouble [Re: Sxrxrnr] #1637667
06/26/14 02:19 PM
06/26/14 02:19 PM
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jbc426 Offline
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Quote:

Quote:

Quote:

Is this the same car that had what was initially suggested to have transmission linkage issues in a different thread last week?




Yes, this is the same car. Im chasing two problems at the same time which doesn't help. I believe that the clutch is what is causing my problem though. Im just trying to start with the clutch first and hopefully it takes care of my shifting problem too.






I've been somewhat sorry that I did not install a hydraulic clutch in my car while the engine was out a few months back. Have one in another car and feels much smoother, manageable and easier on my aging leg.




That wouldn't be the same old leg you're still kicking Axe, and taking names with would it, Roger?


1970 Plymouth 'Cuda #'s 440-6(block in storage)currently 493" 6 pack, Shaker, 5 speed Passon, 4.10's
1968 Plymouth Barracuda Convertible 408 Magnum EFI with 4 speed automatic overdrive, 3800 stall lock-up converter and 4.30's (closest thing to an automatic 5 speed going)
Re: Mcleod twin disc clutch trouble [Re: jbc426] #1637668
06/26/14 06:19 PM
06/26/14 06:19 PM
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clarks summit pa
73cuda340 Offline OP
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How much travel do you guys have in your clutch pedal? Like I said with mine, in order for it to be adjusted correctly I only have like 2 maybe 3 inches of travel and when it is fully returned it is about 3 inches from the floor pan/firewall.


1973 Cuda 528 all aluminum Hemi, 4 speed, 3.23 Sure-Grip, (JA5) Silver Frost Metallic 1973 Challenger Rallye 340 1985 W150 Power Ram prospector 1986 Camaro IROC-Z 305 tpi
Re: Mcleod twin disc clutch trouble [Re: 73cuda340] #1637669
06/28/14 09:37 PM
06/28/14 09:37 PM
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clarks summit pa
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Anyone?


1973 Cuda 528 all aluminum Hemi, 4 speed, 3.23 Sure-Grip, (JA5) Silver Frost Metallic 1973 Challenger Rallye 340 1985 W150 Power Ram prospector 1986 Camaro IROC-Z 305 tpi
Re: Mcleod twin disc clutch trouble [Re: jbc426] #1637670
06/29/14 12:02 AM
06/29/14 12:02 AM
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Quote:

Quote:

Quote:

Quote:

Is this the same car that had what was initially suggested to have transmission linkage issues in a different thread last week?




Yes, this is the same car. Im chasing two problems at the same time which doesn't help. I believe that the clutch is what is causing my problem though. Im just trying to start with the clutch first and hopefully it takes care of my shifting problem too.






I've been somewhat sorry that I did not install a hydraulic clutch in my car while the engine was out a few months back. Have one in another car and feels much smoother, manageable and easier on my aging leg.




That wouldn't be the same old leg you're still kicking Axe, and taking names with would it, Roger?




Naw, now only taking names.

Speaking of axes, did I ever tell you of the original axe with which George Washington cut down the cherry tree that my Grandfather left to me?

Almost like new, only has had the handle replaced 3 times and the head twice.

Re: Mcleod twin disc clutch trouble [Re: 73cuda340] #1637671
06/29/14 12:34 AM
06/29/14 12:34 AM
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Quote:

Anyone?




What does McLeod advise?

Going back to your original thread where you thought that was transmission problem and indication initially was that you had not changed clutch or transmission(I am operating from memory) and could change gears with disconnected linkage, but not with shift linkage connected,,,the scenario changed to where you had also 'upgraded' to a double disk clutch and things got really confusing.

Perhaps you could give a blow by blow, step by step of all you have done. As in:

1. Car initially a 360 with automatic.

2. Pulled engine and transmission

3. Installed brand X clutch linkage

4......and so forth with each step and vendor products used,,,clutch fork, flywheel, bell housing, clutch pressure plate and disc(s), throw out bearing, shift linkage ,,,,,etc

I've believed from the beginning that shift issues was a clutch problem,,,now we must figure out just where things went astray,,,like warped discs, perhaps installed backward,,,easy to do on some cars,,,,clutch pivot ball(I'm thinking as in Chevy here,,,sorry)' pilot bearing, incorrect clutch linkage or improperly mounted,,,etc.

With Hemi engine upgrade, is there any possibility that engine is positioned out of spec as result of incorrect motor mounts causing clutch linkage 'throw' issues?

If pivot ball as in Chevy,,,,this would be my first best guess as cause.

With a complete blow by blow, we will figure it out

Last edited by Sxrxrnr; 06/29/14 12:39 AM.
Re: Mcleod twin disc clutch trouble [Re: Sxrxrnr] #1637672
06/29/14 08:36 PM
06/29/14 08:36 PM
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clarks summit pa
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The car started as a 340, 23 spline 4 speed and a hayes clutch. I put everything together and went through the transmission and everything worked fine in the car; clutch, transmission, shifter, etc. All new shifter linkage and rods, levers and clutch rod kit.

Next I put my hemi in the car with a 18 spline hemi 4 speed and a Mcleod rxt twin disc kit. Stock replacement bellhousing, new clutch linkage kit and pilot bushing from brewers performance. I used the same shifter linkage, mechanism, and rods that were on the car before and worked perfectly when I had them on there with the old motor and tranmission. When installing the clutch kit, I measured all the clearances with feeler gauges and everything was in spec that the gave me in the directions.

Now I have the problem with the clutch going overcenter when I push the pedal more than halfway down. The only way that I can adjust it so that it doesn't go overcenter and re-engage is when the clutch is adjusted to the point where the pedal is about 2-3 inches from the floor when it is all the way up and the 2-3 inches is all the travel that I have in the clutch.

I called the McLeod tech line three different times and the first two times the guys words were "I don't know what to tell you". The other time I was told that I can send it back and they would adjust the travel on the pressure plate fingers. However, I don't want to have to continuously take the clutch out, send it back, wait for them to adjust it, put it back in and find out that it needs more adjustment and repeat the whole process over and over. That is why I was asking and hoping to find some advice to make it work with what I have now.


1973 Cuda 528 all aluminum Hemi, 4 speed, 3.23 Sure-Grip, (JA5) Silver Frost Metallic 1973 Challenger Rallye 340 1985 W150 Power Ram prospector 1986 Camaro IROC-Z 305 tpi
Re: Mcleod twin disc clutch trouble [Re: 73cuda340] #1637673
06/29/14 10:01 PM
06/29/14 10:01 PM
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Not being Mopar wise in this particular area,,,does the clutch release(goes from external clutch linkage to throw out bearing) pivot on a ball just as with Chevy?

Is this pivot ball adjustable as with some Chevy balls( basically changing the angle of the fulcrum)' or are their different balls offered as certain GM configurations.

Is it possible to install either the throw out bearing or either clutch disc in backward,,,not suggesting that you did, just asking. It is possible on some cars to do this.

It is possible as I had mentioned in your other thread to severely distort a clutch disc if one leaves the transmission 'hanging' before trans main shaft is throughly ensconced into the pilot bearing,,,given all additional info now, doubt this is the problem.

Are you certain that is correct throw out bearing

Is it a Borg and Beck clutch or a diaphragm pressure plate. Is it possible that any fingers are compromised in some way,,,broken or distorted.

How does new clutch linkage compare dimensionally to that which you replaced?

You are certain that engine is properly placed via correct motor mounts and K member is all in place properly.

Did you replace flywheel and is it correct if you did,,,if thicker(or thinner) can throw off geometry of pivot ball, pressure plate and clutch release lever.

Assuming that you did not replace clutch pedal assembly and correct bell housing is used.

Damn, running out of ideas. McLeod's are the experts in the room, it is there clutch assembly(though not to insist it is there product at fault) surprised how they have shucked and jived you off with no solution. If it is happening to you, likely has happened to many who went before you so you would think that they would have seen this before.

Have you had the clutch out for a re-examination of all components since original installation to find if any damage to any?

Where earlier I said my dough was on the clutch as the cause of poor shift action, I now give even odds that is defective pressure plate or the geometry of the pivot ball,,,if this is used with Mopar too.

How's about a hydraulic clutch as a backup?

Last edited by Sxrxrnr; 06/29/14 10:06 PM.
Re: Mcleod twin disc clutch trouble [Re: 73cuda340] #1637674
06/29/14 10:33 PM
06/29/14 10:33 PM
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MD
RTSE4ME Offline
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I have the same problem with my twin disc. When I adjust the pedal for an inch of free play the throwout bearing is depressing the clutch fingers.
I think there is not enough bell housing depth. What throwout bearing are you using?

Re: Mcleod twin disc clutch trouble [Re: Sxrxrnr] #1637675
06/29/14 10:53 PM
06/29/14 10:53 PM
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clarks summit pa
73cuda340 Offline OP
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There isnt a ball, just the fork is on a bracket that is inside the bellhousing. However it only goes on one way so there's no adjustment.

The throwout bearing can only go in one way and it is possible to install the discs backwards, but they are labeled with a sticker from the factory showing which side is the pressure plate side and which is the flywheel side. I double checked that they were facing the right way when installing them.

I installed a throwout bearing from McLeod and according to the part number it was the correct one, it seemed to fit fine too.

The clutch is a borg and beck and the transmission never rested on the fingers during the install, so unless they were slightly bent from shipping, they should be fine.

The linkage is factory replacement and the only difference from the previous setup is that the adjusting rod is straight for the big block and angled for the small block.

For the motor mounts I used the Schumacher hemi conversion mounts and supposedly people have said that the motors position is slightly different from stock, but this shouldn't affect the amount of distance the throw is for the fork. If anything it might cause the linkage to bind from being at a different angle; however I don't have a binding problem, just too much travel.

The flywheel I used came with the clutch kit and is made specifically for that clutch setup.

I don't want to install a hydraulic setup if I don't have too.

I have yet to take the trans and clutch back out for inspection. Ive been looking it over hoping to find a stupid mistake and fix the problem, but Ive looked over this a hundred times and I cant come up with anything. I appreciate all that help that has been given but Im pretty much at a loss of what to do at this point. I cant find any other clutch that is rated for the power for my engine, if I did have to go down that road. My engine dynoed right at 700 hp and the only other kit that I can find that is close is only rated to 500 hp.


1973 Cuda 528 all aluminum Hemi, 4 speed, 3.23 Sure-Grip, (JA5) Silver Frost Metallic 1973 Challenger Rallye 340 1985 W150 Power Ram prospector 1986 Camaro IROC-Z 305 tpi
Re: Mcleod twin disc clutch trouble [Re: 73cuda340] #1637676
06/29/14 11:21 PM
06/29/14 11:21 PM
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Northern Calyfornua
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Sxrxrnr Offline
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Hanging transmission would distort clutch disc, not pressure plate fingers. Think heavy transmission shoved into disc splines but not into pilot hole. Think pull down on transmission and the damage that might ensue to clutch disc and the corruption to disc runout. Can be enough to keep clutch surfaces contacting both pressure plate and flywheel even though clutch pedal all the way down.

However sounding now more and more like somehow defective pressure plate or it's internal set up adjustments.

Minor suspicion motor mount positioning of engine, no options for clutch lever pivot, likely discard this.

Hate to say it but perhaps time to pull trans and clutch if all else is as you believe, in order.

I recently had to pull oil pan to resolve oil leaks on my 512 stroker 5 times to finally resolve a circus of missteps by 4 different so called reputable manufacturers and/vendors. And of course my fault in trusting each of them that they knew what they were doing or had the quality control to ensure that they did.

As I believe it was President Reagan was wont to say: 'Trust but verify'.

Re: Mcleod twin disc clutch trouble [Re: 73cuda340] #1637677
06/30/14 03:56 AM
06/30/14 03:56 AM
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West Coast, USA
jbc426 Offline
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Have you read this page thoroughly from Brewer's Transmissions?

http://www.brewersperformance.com/products.asp?cat=105

You did say you had a small block in the car didn't you and now you have a big block, but are using the same clutch linkage Z-bar?

Also, you are running a 700 hp hemi with a stock bellhousing? That's just plain crazy! Have you ever seen a car that had a clutch explode? it does happen.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L9vpcyxvvC8


1970 Plymouth 'Cuda #'s 440-6(block in storage)currently 493" 6 pack, Shaker, 5 speed Passon, 4.10's
1968 Plymouth Barracuda Convertible 408 Magnum EFI with 4 speed automatic overdrive, 3800 stall lock-up converter and 4.30's (closest thing to an automatic 5 speed going)
Re: Mcleod twin disc clutch trouble [Re: jbc426] #1637678
06/30/14 09:05 AM
06/30/14 09:05 AM
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PA
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Get rid of the over-center spring on the clutch pedal under the dash! That is the starting point. I had the same problems until I got rid of the spring in my Dart. After that it was cake to adjust. Feels like a normal clutch then also. Plus make sure your geometry is correct in your Z-bar and other linkage. It all works together.

Re: Mcleod twin disc clutch trouble [Re: 73cuda340] #1637679
06/30/14 10:01 AM
06/30/14 10:01 AM
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MD
RTSE4ME Offline
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Quote:



Next I put my hemi in the car with a 18 spline hemi 4 speed and a Mcleod rxt twin disc kit.



Quote:

The clutch is a borg and beck and the transmission never rested on the fingers during the install, so unless they were slightly bent from shipping, they should be fine.



I thought the RXT only came with a diaphragm pressure plate.
The RST/RXT pressure plates require less than.400" of bearing travel to fully release according to Mcleod.
I think the additional clutch height and the reduced pressure plate travel needed is causing the issue.

Not sure what the solution would be. Maybe you could use a longer clutch pedal to torque shaft rod to reduce travel? Just thinking out loud.

Re: Mcleod twin disc clutch trouble [Re: RTSE4ME] #1637680
06/30/14 07:41 PM
06/30/14 07:41 PM
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Niwot, CO Formerly denn...
dynorad Offline
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You won't solve this until you get rid of the over center spring.

Re: Mcleod twin disc clutch trouble [Re: dynorad] #1637681
07/01/14 12:15 AM
07/01/14 12:15 AM
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74RALLYE Offline
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Here's an idea: Order a torque shaft replacement pin and mount it to the torque shaft leaver that actuates the clutch fork. Mount it at a position closer to the pivot point of the torque shaft. This will reduce the amount of travel and it will need all of that pedal travel to operate the clutch. This is just an idea to consider as I'm not a clutch expert.

http://brewersperformance.com/proddetail.asp?prod=TSP

Re: Mcleod twin disc clutch trouble [Re: 74RALLYE] #1637682
07/01/14 06:17 PM
07/01/14 06:17 PM
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clarks summit pa
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I did remove the overcenter spring from the pedal. It didn't make any difference. They do make the clutch kit in a borg and beck assembly. Here is the link to the one that I bought.

http://www.brewersperformance.com/proddetail.asp?prod=MC64408B


1973 Cuda 528 all aluminum Hemi, 4 speed, 3.23 Sure-Grip, (JA5) Silver Frost Metallic 1973 Challenger Rallye 340 1985 W150 Power Ram prospector 1986 Camaro IROC-Z 305 tpi
Re: Mcleod twin disc clutch trouble [Re: 73cuda340] #1637683
07/03/14 12:01 AM
07/03/14 12:01 AM
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Cedar Rapids, IA
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69Mcode440 Offline
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I am not an expert, but isn't this all a matter of pedal ratio, fork ratio to calculate pedal travel required to the travel of the clutch for disengagement. Maybe get out a tape measure and see what it figures out to be.


Mike
69 440 Cuda
71 Dart drag car
70 Duster drag car Best et 9.32, 145.9 mph
2019 Ram 2500 4x4
Re: Mcleod twin disc clutch trouble [Re: 73cuda340] #1637684
07/03/14 05:24 AM
07/03/14 05:24 AM
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Norway
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General 68 Offline
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Does it require a lot of pressure to push the pedal through the release travel? I do not think you want to run the 3 finger original street twin without the over center spring. The original street twin also comes in a diphragm version and this one is tougher than the common 800hp and 1000hp twins. I run this diphragm 1200hp version and THIS clutch works well without the spring but is hard on the leg. It feels lik it requires twice the pedal effort we are used to from more modern cars. Mcleod describes the pedal effort to 'slightly heavier than stock' and that is for the diphragm version. I also might follow the idea of inproper pedal ratio - if the pedal is hard.
Lars

Re: Mcleod twin disc clutch trouble [Re: General 68] #1637685
07/03/14 08:45 AM
07/03/14 08:45 AM
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Truckville, the capital of NY
85_Ram_4speed Offline
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No experience with a twin disk, but I set up my old Dartsport with a stop as was suggested previously and no overcenter spring. If you adjust the clutch right, there will actually be very little movement in clutch pedal travel to get the disk to release. Mopars have WAY to much travel in stock form. It took me having someone in the car pressing the pedal while I got underneath to see what was actually happening. I think I set my air gaps to be about .090 on the several different clutches I tried, anything much tighter and it was hard to shift at high speed---again, this is what I determined worked for me.

I'd be willing to bet if someone pressed the clutch for you while you under neath, measure your air gap and have the assistant note where the pedal started and stop to achieve that, you'd see it doesnt take much travel at all. My pedal actually was not any higher off the floor than my brake pedal--in fact it was lower---stock it was alot higher than the brake pedal. It doesn't matter which side of the pedal you limit, or both, you just need to limit it for a specified distance. And make sure the linkage geometry is right too.


Outcast Dodge guy.
Re: Mcleod twin disc clutch trouble [Re: 73cuda340] #1637686
07/03/14 11:10 AM
07/03/14 11:10 AM
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MD
RTSE4ME Offline
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The original Street Twin uses a Borg & Beck long pressure plate. This is a borg & beck hat with long style fingers. You have lower static pressure and they have c/w on fingers for lock up. It is kind of in between a B&B and diaphragm.
I think they make different diameter overcenter springs depending on static pressure. I would give Brewers a call.

I think a member(71TA) uses the same exact clutch with a Lakewood bell without any issues.

Re: Mcleod twin disc clutch trouble [Re: 85_Ram_4speed] #1637687
07/03/14 11:17 AM
07/03/14 11:17 AM
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MD
RTSE4ME Offline
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Quote:

Mopars have WAY to much travel in stock form.

I'd be willing to bet if someone pressed the clutch for you while you under neath, measure your air gap and have the assistant note where the pedal started and stop to achieve that, you'd see it doesnt take much travel at all. My pedal actually was not any higher off the floor than my brake pedal--in fact it was lower---stock it was alot higher than the brake pedal. It doesn't matter which side of the pedal you limit, or both, you just need to limit it for a specified distance. And make sure the linkage geometry is right too.




I would do this.

Re: Mcleod twin disc clutch trouble [Re: RTSE4ME] #1637688
07/03/14 08:20 PM
07/03/14 08:20 PM
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clarks summit pa
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I had a helper working the pedal while I was underneath. I just got it to the point where it will disengage. Im just going to live with the lower pedal. I got it to be about halfway now.


1973 Cuda 528 all aluminum Hemi, 4 speed, 3.23 Sure-Grip, (JA5) Silver Frost Metallic 1973 Challenger Rallye 340 1985 W150 Power Ram prospector 1986 Camaro IROC-Z 305 tpi
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