I was trying to tune my son's Satellite yesterday. It is a 1974 318.

It has sat for a year so it is running poorly. The gas is fresh, on high idle it runs fine,but when it kicks down, it will die. I set the idle up a bit and went to check the timing.

As I rotated the distributor, to walk the timing back towards 0, the idle came way down and then the timing light quit firing. Is that a misfire on #1 cylinder? Or was there not enough energy for the inductive circuit to pick up the circuit firing? Never had that happen before.

Can't say for sure what would cause that, I'd say you have an issue going on in your ignition system or your light isn't good, misfire could be the cause.

Why are you retarding the timing to 0 though? The engine will likely not run best with 0 degrees of initial timing, and also if it was on high idle the mechanical advance was likely already coming in (and vacuum if it was hooked up still). The timing shouldn't have moved from the last time it was running.

I would advance the timing and try to stabilize the running conditions first. And let it warm up and get down to idle speed.

For what its worth, stock 2 barrel small blocks even seem to like at least 10 degrees of initial timing. Just make sure once you set it you don't have too much total, it should be around 34ish without the vacuum advance hooked up once the timing is all in. Stock Chrysler electronic ignition?

Yep all stock right now. I swear the book says +/- 2 degrees of timing. But it likes to run at 10 or 12. Glad to hear that is OK. I have vacuum disconnected,

It probably does, but it will run better with more. The retarded timing is for emissions purposes.

Well, I don't think I have a dial back light. Isn't that what I would need to see the timing mark at 15 degrees advanced?

I think something is wrong with the timing or carb. This thing hates idling low. It is factory 2 bbl and probably needs rebuilt. I have sprayed it with gumout while running and did not notice a change in speed, so I don't think it has leaks anywhere, I think it is gummed up.

I will probably rebuild it this weekend. I don't know anything about the engine, for all I know the timing chain could be off. It is runnign rough.

could be needing the grounds cleaned if it has been sitting.. stat with VR and ECU on firewall..clean the spots for a good ground.

next up would be have a look at the carb..the gaskets shrink when sitting and the crap fuel now days leave deposits/water in the bowls when evaped empty over time. also check accel pump for a good pump shot when working the throttle. have a look at the rubber lines at frame/pump and frame/tank to make sure it is not sucking air with bad rubber lines.

give it some idle time to pump lifter up good and come up to operating temps idling in N so the trans pumps fluid.

stock 74 is a lopo smogger and will always run better with the timing set up close to 10* for a daily driver. if the BBD 2-v carb is up to par that is.

I would advance it up close to 10* BTDC and test drive working bugs out before any WOT blast with it.

If the light quit flashing Id be checking wires.They have sat and how old are they?Ive had quite a few bad wires on my stuff and at work.Thats one reason the light wont pick up a signal.Rocky

Yeah, if it doesn't want to idle don't jump to the carb yet. Do you regular tune up stuff first, plugs, wires, rotor and cap.

Thanks gents. I will check the normal tune up stuff first. If I can keep my kid out of the car. Been 3 yrs in the works, he has 3 days to graduation. Making the most of showing it off!

Rapid Robert I am also going to take your advice from the other thread and determine vacuum and idle speed and see where it like to sit. It did not like much more than 10, but the mark did vanish under the pump so I don't know how much.

Thanks for the ideas. I will see if I can work on it tonight. If not, tomorrow and Sat.

Check your ballast resistor as well, been reading up on a surge I have and have seen a fair amount on resistors not holding the proper energy to run them at normal idle. Just a thought do I search and you can see the info.

Well, I do have a complete MSD ignition swap planned. Billet dizzy, MSD 6AL, wires, coil, plugs, cap rotor everything.

That will eliminate the ballast resistor.

My underhood wiring was done by a blind man with no electrical tape. Untaped splices everywhere. The ballast reisstor has so many bypasses around it with wires taped wrapped together bare, I am certain if I touch it, the car will never run again!

Blind man with no electrical tape is awesome! I love you man.

I just gave my 74 SE Charger, 318, stock rebuild with a mild RV cam and ported 302 casting heads a timing adjustment. It was doggy at higher RPMs set at 0 degrees. I added 10 degrees initial and it woke up with a little more power and much better higher RPM performance. (no tach)
The distributor is original and not in the best condition. I could tell the advance mechanism was sticky.

How much was the rebuild?

here is what I tried today.

Finally found a tach. Holy crap no one carries those any more. Guy at a good parts store said we haven't had one of those in 20 yrs.

Anyway, got a tach, placed on coil wire told it 8 cyl Running around 11 rpm in park.

Placed vac gauge on manifold nipple, did not hold steady, but had a range of 16 - 20 inches.

Timing light on but the mark was gone with the idle up that high.

I placed the car in gear, rpms dropped. I watched vac gauge and turned dist. Got the vac back up to 16 or so. Unlike the 340 from the other thread, my car does not like too much timing.

So, with car in gear I played with the distributor and quit around 15 inches and 800 rpm in gear. Any slower it would die.

WE messed around putting it in gear and and watching rpms. Seemed OK. Kid went in house to get ready for work took mins. The car would not start.

I took lid off air cleaner, closed butterfly and it starts. It seems like my hard start problem is because it is getting too much air. I wonder, since it sat for so long, if the new fuel filter is already plugged. I am going to look at that tomorrow.

This car has a position on the carb when warm, thatthe idle set screw falls into a little notch. It is not spring returning once you open the throttle. I wonder if a spring is missing. Factory 2 bbl. When the idle screw is in that notch, if it dies, it is holding the butterfly wide open and I do not get a start.