Thanks.
How substantial is the Dana housing where the cover bolts enter, and what size are they? (I'm sure some here will anticipate where I'm going with this).
If the housing thickness is sufficient as an "anchor" point, the cover could be stiffened a great deal by simply adding an "X" brace across the dome (landing in between several bolts). This should be as tall (standing away from the cover) as practical. It serves as the attachment point for 2 spans (1" 4130 tube) each ending on a big adjustable clevis on either end (like a 4-link). The cover's new addition and the housing axle ends have the mating clevis shapes.
When assembled, the spans pull the axle tubes backward toward the landing spot on the cover to whatever tension you want on the clevises. The taller the X brace the more leverage the clevises have.
To service the gears, back off on both clevises a few turns, and remove the pins holding the inner spans to the cover; rotate them down and out of your way (or remove completely if they're in the way).
The cover now comes off as normally.
Service complete: attach the cover, tighten the clevises and re-install the pins through the spans.

Guys, many of you have more experience with these rears than I but I wanted to bring up a couple of points. I was at a seminar once that DTS put on and they mentioned that Dana axle tubes were not very strong - thin wall mild steel and some people were having problems bending them -They had a process where they would mill out the tube welds in the case and remove the stock tubes and replace them with chrome moly thicker wall tubes and weld them back to the case in the stock locations as well as a full weld where the tubes exit the case.
I would think that the length of the tubes as well as where the suspension components (leaf springs, ladder bars, ect...) attach also would play into the bending of the axles. A shorter rear would be stiffer.

I also am tired of hearing that a 9" is the only way to go especially on street & street/strip cars. My argument is that you can build a Dana that is basicly trouble free for a car up to the 9 sec zone with mostly the parts it came with - add a steel cap, gear and axles and you are ready to go. When building a 9" Ford you need to replace almost everything in the 3rd member, case, pinion support, ect... as well as brace the housing - Is it stronger and lighter than a Dana, Yes, but also more expensive for this type of car. Unless you are running a class car, an extreme HP car or possibly a really fast car on Drag Radials, I don't see the need to HAVE to run a 9"
Just my 2 cents

Well... 9" here..

3000# and runs in the 8's..

Never have broke any parts..

Bent the housing when the car wrecked..

It started out as a Nodular 9" with a Daytona pinion support and back braced.. Moly tubes..
It now has a bolt thru Moser aluminum case, and has always had 35 spline M/W axles..

And always has had street gears too..

Never have broke a set of those.. But we don't do what Monte does either..

It's still a 900+ hp deal @ 3000#..

Monte didn't say everyone needed a 9".. A Dana is just as good for some things, and not as good for others..

Gear selection and simplicity makes the 9" a no brainer for me..



Chris..