Hey guys, i'm the proud owner of a 66' satellite....{highly over looked and under rated body style by the mopar crowd IMHO}. �I have yet to run it at the track, but my local track in Fontana California just re-opened. I'd love to break the 12.99 e.t. barrier in the 1/4 if possible. Here is a rundown of my setup.

69' 440 long block �never rebuilt as far as I can tell so, i'm assuming 9 to 1 comp ratio. The engine makes equal compression in all cylinders, 140-155psi. great oil pressure too, that as well as cost are my reasons for not rebuilding to bump the comp ratio.
stock 906's with new springs/retainers/locks/seals
3310 vac secondary Holley 750
1/2" 4 hole phenolic spacer
Performer RPM intake
Crane adjustable ductile iron rockers i'm assuming 1.5 ratio
Mopar .528 solid cam and lifters
Old Heddman headers 1 3/4" primaries into 3' collectors into Flowmaster 40 series muffs that dump in front of the rear axle.
orange box with mopar electronic dist. 14 initial 35 total all in @ 2600

727 with a shift kit, the big question mark is the converter. i was told a 2500 stall... ? �still not sure.
741 case 8 3/4 with a 3.91-1 suregrip. stock snubber
New mopar factory big block springs and KYB gas adjust shocks in front and back.
275/60/15 radials which equal a 28.5" tall tire... i know, i need slicks
Car weighs 3740 with me in it.
�
Any tips or suggestions of parts/combos/tricks that have proven essential/successful for you guys in the past ?? Anything you could pass along would be much apperciated. Do you think my combo is capable of my goal as it sits ?? I'm stabbing in the .528 next week. Hope it wont kill my bottom end. Im switching from a Howards .506 lift 219/219 @50 hydraulic.

This is a street car first , i'm on a tight budget but, i'd like it to be a strong performer as well.

p.s. i'm not really into the idea of nitrous.

� � �Thanks again in advance, �Dave �

You should be well in the 12's with that package, I ran a bunch of 12.6's with a 77 smog motor with a 509 cam and stock heads in a 3800 pound b-body

I would think high 13's at best as it is. Get the mopar porting templates and port the heads for a start, get them milled and use steel shim head gaskets to get the comp up. Make sure all your timing is in at 2000 rpm. You could do with slicks or drag radials and a bit more converter wouldn't hurt. I wouldn't go too mad on the motor though because you've only got the small pinion centre section. Clamp the front sections on the leaf springs and fit a snubber if you dont have one now. Oh and drop the exhaust at the track, that should give you at least .15 maybe .2.
good luck Mick

The biggest single performance improvement I saw when I was in your shoes was a good convertor. Beg, borrow, or steal a good 10" convertor. TA makes a fantastic piece that will outlast the engine, trans, and car. I ran a 12.19 with the same basic package you're working with in my truck at about the same weight as you. I ran the TA 10" convertor and 4.56 suregrip, 29x10" slicks.Dave

If everything is tuned and running right it should run 12's easy.

The MP orange box pulls timing out above 4000 rpm , really a poor choice for an ignition box , swap it out for something better .

I have close to the same combo with less cam (hydraulic .484 lift). Same gears as yours. With slicks and open headers mid 12's. With 255 60 15" I can just get into the 12.90's. I would think your traction and converter would be the only thing that might hold you back. Mine is in a 62 Sport Fury with a 3500-4000 stall converter, and it is driven on the street most of the time. Also, the converter doesn't give me any trouble on the street, even in the traffic of "Back to the fifties" car show, the best car show in the world (yep, I said the world, and I have traveled all over).

Also, you may want to experiment with more overall timing, up to maybe 38 degrees or so, whatever runs best.

I dont think he can do it... not in the current set
up... a conv would help BIG TIME... look at what the
production cars ran back then... it was really difficult
to get a stock car into the 12s.... everyone back
then thought they had a fast car till they took it
to the track and then it turned a 14

Wow, thanks for all the quick replies fellas much appreciated. I was figuring the converter would be my weak link, as well as my tires. Will I feel any negative effects from clamping the front leafs while running on the street ? And when we're talking about snubbers are you referring to the adjustable kind? I'm already running the stock version.

I think you should be able to meet your goal. My car is real similar with a few differences:

850 DP instead of 750 vac sec.
SS springs
9.5 Dynamic converter
90/10 Calvert shocks
Stock 452 heads
Engle hydraulic cam with .534 lift, 238 @ .050 duration

It usually runs 7.90s in the 1/8 at Barona (best ever was a 7.86) with 1.68 to 1.70 60 foot times, I think that would be like 12.30s to 12.50s in the 1/4 according to the calculators. Maybe someday I'll meet you up at Fontana and we can do some '66 vs. '67 runs and I can get a 1/4 mile time.

I agree on getting some bias ply slicks and a good converter.

Also, do you guys think the cam swap I mentioned is a step in the right direction? ?

It will run 12's IF you can get the 60' times in line.

The new camshaft will want more initial timing than the old cam. I'd install the cam at 107-108 ICL.

Use the snubber for what they do best, propping the door of your garage open to let a breeze in!

I have a '67

That car should go 12.50s-12.80s on slicks. As stated your best friend at this point would be a new converter.

Take the car out and find out what is does now, adjust as needed AKA go run the car, if it spins real bad to start with loosen up the front shock retaining nuts and washers at the track so the front end will try to transfer weight.My biggest concern on your car is th fuel system, the stock 5/16 pickup and fuel lines will probally limit your top end charge Go have some fun and see whar it does, as you can see from these posts everybody has thier own opinions based on their past expereinces or what they've heard

I think it'll run 12s easily if it hooks good.
The converter, like everyone else said, is the big question. A good 10" 3500-3800 stall would be great.

I'm not a fan of the MP Orange ignition boxes...I like MSD, but everyone has their favorite. Also, bump the timing up to 38� total w/ that combo.

AN 830-850 double pumper would be better than that vac. sec. carb.

I ran 11.80s at 3700# w/ a 10:1 compression 440 w/ stock 906 heads, 509/292 cam, Edelbrock RPM intake, 830 holley, 10" 3800 stall, and 4.10 gears w/ 28x10 slicks. 1 7/8" headers, 3" exhaust w/ flowmasters, pump gas, etc. etc.

Thanks for the input all . first in my list will definitely be a quality converter. Well, maybe some slicks first, before I hit the track. Hey 67 Satty, pm me and we can exchange info. It'd be sweet to hook up with someone who has experience with this platform (66/67 big block b- body) before I run my first time at the track.

Will do, if you can rustle up some slicks by this weekend, you could take it down to Barona for the San Diego Antique Drags.

that would be sweet, but its tore down for the cam swap right now. i'll probably get it running on Sunday. I just missed a killer deal on some used Hoosiers here in Riverside.
$50 for 30x9x15 drag radials... sold yesterday tho .. guess i'll keep lookin.

odds are traction is the key....make all the power you want...unless it hooks up, and weight transfer occurs...your gonna sit and spin...you need some of these...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mickey-Thompson-...4b2&vxp=mtr

I thinly you should use MT ET Streets. The radials still spin.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mtt-3755/overview/

hi ,

easy 12s with a carter electric fuel pump mounted near the tank !
have fun !

I think it should do it, provided you get slicks.
It may take some tuning and practice to get there, but I think that combo with slicks should run 12.70s

You should be able to be faster than that. I ran 12.90's with much less motor. I'd guess all sorted out and hooking you'd be in the 12.50-70 range.

When I installed the new springs I laid a straight edge across the valve tips. The exhaust tips were about 1/8" higher than the intakes... basically proves that hardened exhaust seats have never been installed. Still makes consistent compression tho. Even registered consistently with a leak down test.. Not like a new motor, but all cylinders in the good range..

Drag radials will work fine at your power level and no swapping tires at the track.Get it to hook first and then look at a stall converter.After that you can swap carbs at the track and look for a little more.
If you are on a tight budget forget about a cam.Tune what you have and look for deals on used parts.

Everyone here posted some Great recommendations & I'd probably follow about 99.99999% of them, especially going out & seeing what the car does first. I'm assuming this is a dual-purpose car & being put together with "stash" (spare) money to keep cost down & you're doing your own work.
Assuming all that's true, & once you have a baseline established, I would (in order): 1) get a good converter
2) get some slicks
3) loosen up the front-end to get some weight
transfer & clamp the rear springs
4) make certain you have good fuel flow. Better
lines,pump, sump tank, whatever it takes
5)Lighten the car anyway you can. A good rule of
thumb is 100lbs= 1/10sec.
6) Look at the F.A.S.T. series cars. These guys
are running killer times & using alot of old
school tricks that may apply to your ride.















+

First, drag radials are MORE THAN enough tire. Quite a few guys are in the 7's and didn't one brand X guy just go 6.99 on DR's?? Second, consider this edited post I did the other day...

The 78 (440, OE crank rods and cast pistons...way down in the hole) was yanked from a wrecked 60K mile Monaco.

To it was added a MP .484 stick, redone 915 heads, (stock ports, OE valve sizes), Eddy Torker, 850 TQ, recurved dizzy, small tube headers (1 3/4"?) 11" hemi converter, 4.56's in a all OE 65 Belvedere Wagon. Best of 12.32 @ 110 open headers on 9" x 28" slicks Car weighed 4,2xx lbs.

The 76 (440 again OE crank rods and cast pistons) was found sitting idle in a 76 3/4 pu that had an been t-boned and rolled in 1980. It was given to me in 1985. So, after SITTING FOR FIVE YEARS:

Tossed in the infamous MP .557 cam, redone 452 heads (2.14/1.81, home ported to MP templates), Holly SD intake, Holley 750 DP, MP elec dizzy, 2" Pro Parts headers, 4.30 gears, 10 x 28" McReary tires in a all OE 72 Duster, with full exhaust. 11.70's were too easy. And I mean OE STOCK 72 Duster. Full interior, all OE glass and sheet metal, flat hood, no scoop, steel rally wheels. Was 3440 with me in the seat according to my old notes.

As far as your OE fuel system not being enough? Guess what both cars above ran? Yep..OE STOCK fuel tanks, 5/16" lines and mechanical pumps. On the Duster, since the motor had been sitting so long, I splurged and got a reman fuel pump. Wooooo whoooo!

Further interesting to note: I added 3/8' alum line and a Carter elec pump to the Duster. Still ran 11.70's. The peanut gallery all said that I needed the "trick" Holley blue pump and bigger line. Okay...in with 1/2" line, a sump added to the tank and that blue pump. Wow...11.70's still.

The junkyard Dart in the pic gave me a best of 11.41 @ 117 with a 5/16" line and auto parts store reman mechanical pump.

Let's consider this from a well known Mopar guy, Mr. Porter:

QUOTE: [the 5/16" fuel line....everyone seems to get all worked up about that.
fact is......in 1995, i had a roller cammed 448 in it with ported 906's. same fuel system, flat hood, crank driven water pump, battery up front.....same 3670lbs.....running well into the 10's @ 125+(best of 10.61).]

I have often wondered why we spend big dollars on billet cement mixer pumps, -8 and -10 lines...just so a .110" needle and seat can meter the fuel. Hmmm

All that said, I'd go run the car right now the way it sits. Make 5 good runs and get a good baseline, go from there. Besides, it's WAY fun chasing and reaching that ET/MPH goal you've set for yourself.

My sons 400 Dart pictuted here has run 11.40's @ 117 with the stock 5/16 fuel line as he has just not got around to changing it. As long as the rest of the fuel system is ok you can run in the 11's with a 5/16 line and as said some run in the 10's with it. Of course a larger line always helps but for a 12 second car the 5/16 line should do the job. Good luck , Ron

I agree about the 5/16th line. I used to run 11ohs at 120+ with a holley 950 and mechanical fuel pump.

You should have no prob running 12s with that combo at that weight. I ran 10.91 @ 120.56 in my 3100 lb. Duster with "bone stock" 906s & a XE284H cam, PTC 9.5" 4400 stall, 4.10 gears, 9.73 compression, shifted at 5600, It ran 11.12 with a PTC 11" 2800 stall, 1.57 60ft.

Heck i ran 12.5s @ 105 in my 71 Swinger with a junkyard 360 magnum shifting at 5K.

Hey , thanks again guys for all the helpful input. I really appreciate it. I just need to get this cam swap I got goin buttoned up , get her tuned the best I can on the street and head to the track.

Some good tires. Install an electric fuel pump and make sure your fuel lines are clear including the sock in your tank. If you pick up a good enough fuel pump you can bypass the stock pump and route the fuel line away from heat. You can also pick up a spring kit to tune your secondaries on the Holley.

Update....

Hey guys, well, its been a few years.. lol.. but, i finally got to the track. After a full bottom end rebuild,"old school style", and a few other mods since the original post i finally decided to see what my old rust bucket was capable of..
Of about 6 passes my best e.t. was 13.16 at 105.5 mph. I was actually very pleased and pleasantly suprised at how consistant the car ran. And most of all i had a blast!!👍👍

After my best pass i made some carb adjustments, i have an adjustable vacuum pod for my secondary circut.I adjusted the secondaries to hit quicker,then i started to spin off the line..🤔🤔 I need some better slicks than the used BFG drag radials I have currently.. then, i think i'll hit my 12.99 goal pretty easily. And it's up from there.. 😃Thanks again to all who posted suggestions.. all of them were helpful.😃😃👍

Any other new suggestions or advise would be great too.

I didn't see mention of you having a cold air system. That is well worth the effort. How about collector extensions if you drop the exhaust? I would try 18 to 24 inch extensions. Those two items alone could beworth more than two tenths ET. Pump the front tire pressure up some, every little bit helps. Be sure you have an excellent air cleaner base for best air entry. If your heat riser passages aren't blocked, do so.

Congrats. You should be hooked now.

The first thing it seems that everyone does after their first time out with some tire spin is to do better tires.

Here is a promise, you can do 12.99 with driving practice and tuning alone.

Not so much a coldair system, but i do have a functional R023 Belvedere style scoop on my steel hood. I keep my front skinnies at 30 psi.. would more be good ?
I wish i could run uncorked, but the track has a monitored db limit.. pretty lame, but, they didnt check for the db's at tech, so, maybe i could try it.. dont wanna get 86'd tho.. i do have my heat cross overs blocked.. and i run a 14"x4" K&N element.. should be plenty of flow.. thanks for all the suggestions tho. I run a pretty big drop base .. i may need to try a flat one if i can squeez it in. Need to cut a larger hole in the hood..

Seal the air pan to the scoop opening.

Leave the exhaust. Faster through muffs is better

Add jet until it slows down and go back down a size.

Does your 3310 have a secondary metering block? If not convert it.

If you add one step in jets and it slows down, go the other way until it slows down.

Once you find the optimum fuel curve, start experimenting with timing.

Get a log book and maintain copious notes. Change ONE thing at a time.

I PROMISE YOU, if the motor is remotely healthy you have a solid high 12 second ride with the parts that you already have!

Happy Hunting!

....and buy a weather station.

If you have room, you could put some race mufflers on the collector extensions. That might reduce the Db enough to allow unhooking the regular mufflers?
As far as how much air to run in the front tires, I am not concerned about running 10 to 15 more than what is on the sidewall. They pick up pressure as they warm up on the highway, so there is some safety margin.

I glad you had FUN. Fun gets you through the bad times and makes you enjoy the good times even better. God knows I love making passes

"Add jet until it slows down and go back down a size.

Does your 3310 have a secondary metering block? If not convert it.

If you add one step in jets and it slows down, go the other way until it slows down. "


Thanks for the tips Cudadog, i do have a secondary metering block. When you say "add jet" should i just focus on the primary side first? Or try primary and seconary at the same time ?
I'll definetly be buying a log book,Holley jet kit and weather station before my next trip to the track.Maybe i'll try 40 psi in the fronts next time. Do you think 38° total is too much timing for a 9.8-1cr with iron heads on 91 octane ?
Thanks for all the solid info guys 👍👍

Just do a couple of degrees of timing at a time..
and look at the plugs.. as to fuel.. try 3 jets
at a time till you see it change(speed up or slow
down) do things in small amounts till you get a
handle on things

Should i focus on jetting the primary side first, then move to the secondaries ?
Also, i've been leaving off idle.. my converter flashes up to about 2,800 when i launch. I'll probably try running up the stall to maybe 1,500-1,800 next time.

I would do both primaries and secondaries together to maintain even fuel distribution throughout the manifold. I think bringing the launch speed up will help.

Its as simple as you say, get some new or good used slicks and your there, your 105.5 at 3740lbs computes to an on track 360hp and 12.77's with 60fts around the 1.77 mark, your tickets will show the story...once you have the slicks and its hooking good, you can bring those secondaries in early like before and also try more start line rpm and you'll be well into your goals and past it, once you have some time slips and a base with that tune, up jet the carb both pri/sec at 2>3 size increments until the mph drops off but there's only so far you can go with what I think is a small carb for that set up, 440's like air and lots of it.

Next step would be a good used 850DP Holley keeping costs down which would work well and even better with a looser converter (3>3200 as you have the cam) and perhaps at some time taller gears to get that weight moving quicker but still keeping it streetable and within your rpm range on track at the stripe..I could see it going close to mid 12's like that?.

On my best pass my 60' was 1.95.. so thats definitley where i can do much better.. i do have an 850 vac secondary carb.. it felt sluggish compared to my 750 with the proform main body.. so, i put the 750 back on.. i was gonna save the 850 for when I actually bite the bullet on some better heads.. 🤔🤔in reality the 850 probably just needs more tweaking to be optimized for my current combo. The 750 just feels so much better on the street..
A better converter is on my list too.. its just a matter of funding.. I'm leaning toward a 3500 Turbo Action.. but, i think I'll be better off investing in some better tires first.. thanks again all for the helpful hints..😃👍

"Old Heddman headers 1 3/4" primaries into 3' collectors into Flowmaster 40 series muffs that dump in front of the rear axle"




You might consider "straight through" type mufflers (at some point). Those flowmasters have some baffles in them that could restrict top end flow(mph). Nice job so far with only a 1.95 60ft!

My time slip.. 😕😕 so close.. yet so far.. still have a goal to shoot for tho.. 😊.. thanks pacifica.. so much fun!!

Just wanted to put a cap on this post. Finally got back to the track with a new converter 9.5" FTI 3600 stall. I ran out of fuel at 3/4 track due to my stock fuel pump. Bummed!! I upgraded the fuel pump from a 20gph unit to a 130gph mechanical unit. I also stepped up to 3/8" line.

Also stepped up to an 850 annular booster double pumper. It hits hard !! Woo hoo!!

M/T pro bracket radials 28x9". My next trip out it went 12.55 @107.75!! Totally stoked !! Thanks to all for all your helpful tips and info. All I can think about now is how to scratch into the 11's .. lol.. but that's another post.

Focus on the first hundred feet, the rest of the track will take care of itself, info shared with me by Joe Allread (RIP) circa 1976
Your on the right path to going faster by looking at the results, a lot of cars run out of gas around the 1000 Ft. mark and the owners, drivers, don't realize that
Focus on the time slip and spark plugs, richen the mixture up until it slows down, if you can't do that you have a fuel volume delivery problem, if you can you don't
TEST, Test ands Test some more
I won my first drag race trophy at the old Mickey Thompson Fontana Drag City in the spring of 1964, I have raced on the new track your on now also

Time slip from my best pass. I made 3 consecutive 12.50 passes.. 12.55,12.56,12.57. Pretty stoked..

Will clamping the front sections on my leafs help with my 60 ft ?? I just have the standard heavy duty leafs on there and a stock snubber.

I think it might. My '65 Coronet 60's 1.89 on Radial T/A's with a 3.23 and 22-2400 stall converter. Stock '70 440-6, resto cam, 727. Runs 13.70's on the radials. I have been 13.29 @ 102 with Hoosier Quick Time Pro's, 60's are 1.82 with the QTP's. Car weighs 3765 with me in it.

I am running stock leaves with the front segments clamped, basic over the counter truck shocks in the rear, and no snubber. The 13.29 was run with worn out front torsion bars for what it's worth, they have since been replaced.

Maybe, find out
AKA aside, they should help as long as there is room for improvement, I've seen .03 ET improvement on one of my old race cars by adding the clamps. Made the car look better, even front travel on both sides, on the hit all the way through low gear also
Make sure all the normal race weight is on the springs when you tighten the clamps

Thanks Cab, solid advice as usual. I'll try it.

When chasing et make sure you just barely get into the stage light. I seen .01 from deep staging to barely getting the stage bulb to light. This was on back to back passes.

Are you still leaving at idle? Have you tried loading the converter and just rolling into it. If you are spinning at the hit this could help. this seems counterintuitive but I run half the rear tire and if I don’t load the converter it flashes too high and snaps the tire loose at the hit. The stall rpm is different than the flash rpm. I load it enough that the car launches but doesn’t blow the tire off. I have a 9.5” ptc converter that flashes to about 3500 my best 60’ is 1.71 have someone with an iphone slowmo video the launch and just pay attention to the little things. Don’t spin the tires while sitting in the water. It slings water up in the wheel house to rain down on the tire. Pull around the water and back into it. When you pull out of the water avoid the puddles that collect in the ruts right in front of the water box. Offset left or right to stay out of them. The tire is not your limiting factor at this time.

I do roll through the water.. maybe I'll try going around next time. On my best passes I've been loading the converter to about 1,500 rpm then rolling into it. I could probably push the rpm higher ?? I'll just have to experiment. Good info tho fuzzy. Thanks!

You can drive through the water instead of going around and then backing into and out of it, just don't spin the tires in the water I drive through and don't spin the tires in the water box anymore, I'll pull up a tiny bit in front of the waters edge and then do my burn outs.
You can also try limiting or increasing the burn out time to help hook the car up on the starting line also, lots of things to test