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Yup this is the extreme solid line.

The engine idles OK with less initial, but idled better and better the more initial I gave it, thus why I locked it. Although I did not verify with a vacuum gauge I will double check this weekend, RPMs came up and I reset curb idle to get them back down. Once warmed up the engine fires right off at the touch of the key, doesn't even get a full revolution in really before it comes to life.

I am running a valley tin with paper gaskets on either side. The gaskets seemed to crush well, but the reason I am worried about a potential vacuum leak is because I had a little trouble getting the intake on. Port alignment was good, and even with no gasket/tin the intake face to head alignment looked flush, but I did have to touch up the bolt holes to get the bolts started easily.

The only other way I can think to more accurately check for a vacuum leak is with propane and a long rubber hose. Someone on here had suggested something good a few months back for checking for vacuum leaks, and now I can't find the thread. I thought I favorited it.

I've had a cold since Monday AM so I haven't gotten out to play with the car after work.



carb cleaner, spray around the gaskets and bottom of carb, if engine idles up or changes there's your leak. The more advance the better it will run but harder to start. If carb is right on it will idle at 4 to 5 hundred rpm. Get your air bleeds and idle fuel restrictions right and it won't matter what the vacuum is.