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I hate to keep asking questions here but these rides (tows) home are getting expensive and annoying. I am really curious if this is really my issue or if I am just grasping at straws here.

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Keep posting bro, we'll get this sooner or later . I wanna see you get this as much as you do (& I ain't paying the tow truck)

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I've read through this...The fuel gauge is a good thing but you did'nt state what the pressure was during the "vaporlock" issue...

Heated lines...OK, but there's alot of vehicles out there with headers and they don't have a vaporlock issue but anything is possible..A factory vapor separator and return line to keep the fuel cycling would be a good thing if you truely believe the vaporlock theory...

Lastely, you've checked the lines leading to the pump for debris...And you've never mentioned how the tank is vented...If it's a later model tank with the 4 lines and divorced vapor catch that itself would be another source for the degrading black rubber...

Which brings me to the last question...Did you verify the vent system is actually working and not creating a vacuum condition under a high load/demand on the fuel pump ???

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The fuel pressure gauge is under the hood so I can't see it while I drive. If necessary, I may plumb a line in and tape a gauge to the windshield. The fact that the pump holds pressure for 2-3 minutes after shutdown tells me the pump is good (at least at the time).

I have a brand new tank connected to the factory vapor separator with 4 rubber lines. I replaced the rubber lines last summer and they still look brand new. The separator is not connected to the vapor line as I don't have it anymore. It just vents to atmosphere. Also, this doesn't just happen under high load, its after 20 minutes or so of driving and pressing the pedal harder actually got through the stuttering enough to get home.

I don't see any symptoms that would lead me to think it's a vacuum lock issue. When I pop the fuel cap, no 'whoooosh' of air or anything. I know the tank is vented as I parked it with a very FULL tank of gas and jacked the rear up to do some work and it dripped gas all over during the course of several days.

The fuel line was replaced several years ago and but it is SS and I did flush it to make sure it was clean (it was). I am 99.999% sure we have a squeaky clean line from the tank to the pump as everything is brand new at this point.

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I am hoping this bodes well for curing possible vapor lock issues.

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Sounds promising

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Lot of Drama and trauma, but I know fuel/ignition problems can be taxing at times, I read this whole thread, or tried to keep in check you woes/repairs/observations



no mention of changing the fuel pump rod, I know you said OEM, but get it off the list, don't buy the Mopar replacements, buy from www.racepumps.com pn#6030 $30

Fuel bowl level, no mention of setting up/checking, do you have adjustable float bowls on your Holley?

Memory check, where's your fuel filter located in the system? is the direction of flow correct?...sometimes it's the simplest things that kick one's ar$e

Mike

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I have heard the fuel pump push rod theory before but I would like to hear somebody with 1st hand knowledge of a worn rod causing this kind of issue. I know a work rod can cause fuel starvation issues but this motor will cut off when not under any real load at all. The fact that it made it 20 miles up and down hills and then starts to do this after sitting makes me think 'heat issue' but I could be wrong. I hate to keep throwing money at this swapping parts but if somebody here can give me some experience where a worn rod did this, please let me know!

The fuel levels of both bowls are where they should be aka slight dribble out of each site hole. I did verify this when I rebuilt the carburetor a few weeks back. It is a 4150 and it does have adjustable fuel bowl levels.

The fuel filter is the Summit billet unit with a 40 micron metal mesh filter. I don't remember if it has a dedicated in/out on it but I don't see how the direction would really matter on it. I just assembled it so that if I open the filter, the mesh sits down in there and doesn't fall out.

I appreciate the response...I will consider the worn rod theory but if anyone here can confirm if this can cause (1st hand not guessing) the issues I am having, I will buy a new one.

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At least measure you existing push rod, should measure 3.244 long (a tad under 3 1/4")

I'd confirm the flow direction of the fuel filter and make sure it's mounted between the pump and the carb

Have you tried driving the car without the gas cap on?

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Filter is between the pump and carburetor. There is no filter between the pump and the tank except for the sender sock.

When I get over being PO'ed at this car, I might pull the pump and check the rod length. I didn't measure it but I did inspect it last time I had it out and both ends were perfectly flat with no signs of worn metal. I'm pretty sure it's the original rod as it has the engraved ring around the center of it where it seems most of the aftermarkets are just smooth.

I am pretty sure this isn't a vacuum lock issue because I have popped the cap after running the car and I don't get any 'whoosh' of air like there is a vacuum building in the tank. My fuel filler is dead center on the back of the tank so I don't want to drive w/o the cap and give my rear bumper/plate a gasoline bath.

I didn't check the fuel level in the bowls when the car cut off. I did see pressure on the gauge but I do need to check that next time. I can always see gas from the squirters, even after the car dies.

When the engine wouldn't start, it does feel like it's firing. I pulled the distributor wire and it was sending all kinds of spark to the ground when I held it close. At this point I am 99.9% sure it's not ignition-related as I have tested both the ECU and ignition system during a no-run condition.

When I cut off, I only tried to re-crank it for about 5 seconds or so before I gave up and pushed it out of the road. I have a feeling I would have gotten it to crank eventually but how long it would run...I don't know. As I said before, 5 minutes later I fired it right up and it idled in-gear with A/C on just fine (when I took the video). It just felt 'off' when I tried to drive it like it was going to try and stall...

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If there is fuel at the squirters, there is some fuel in the bowls. Next time it happens, open the sight plug and judge how much fuel is actually in there. If you can see the fuel, there is more than enough for the motor to fire, and fuel delivery to the carb would not be the issue.

Is it possible that fuel is leaking from the carb and flooding the motor while its parked? When it is hard to start have you tried putting the pedal to the floor and crank it (to clear a flooded condition)?

I know you said the carb was recently rebuilt but is possible that there is piece of schmutz in an internal passage? Perhaps something is blocking the fuel flow somewhere in the idle circuit.

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A moparts member named Challenger1 I think, has had real good luck running mechanical pumps. He runs the stock mopar pumps that have a return line at the pump to return fuel to the fuel tank. That way the fuel doesn't get a chance to heat up in the line because it's always moving.

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