I would replace the bearing races with the Timken units I supply with the kit.

Thank you!

I received the zinc plated slotted/drilled rotors from Dr D. Very nice parts!
He directed me to remove the existing bearing races that are provided. The existing races get zinc plated too since they are already installed before plating.
I removed both of the races and then installed the Timken races provided in the kit. I packed the rear bearing (high temp disc brake grease) and added the seal (dust cover installs away from the bearing). Then installed the rotor and the outer bearing. I rotated the disc while over tightening the bearing nut. Then I backed off the nut until the bearing was loose, then I tightened the nut to 145 in/lbs (12 ft/lbs) while rotating the rotor. I checked for any play from top to bottom of the rotor and it was tight. The rotor spins smoothly but does not free wheel spin (without a tire and wheel installed).

Note: I know that some of you experienced members do this by feel, but I like throwing a "number" at it, so I went to 145 in/lbs.

Note 2: I also know that allot of the members know the details of the above. But for guys like me who are doing this for the first time, or are thinking of doing this for the first time, the extra detail helps out.

Sorry for the dark picture.

Next is to install the caliper/pads/anti rattle o-ring.

I found this picture on Moparts showing where the o-ring is placed. Since I have a 1970 manual, I did not have a good reference for this o-ring placement. Thanks to the member/s who have posted this picture in earlier threads.
- Install o-ring around caliper mounting bracket.
- Slide the rear pad into the caliper mounting bracket.
- install the outer pad into the caliper (off of the car) and bend the tabs so they are snug around the caliper casting. Install the brake hose at this time too. See above response for placement of the copper washers.
- install the caliper and outer pad onto the caliper mounting bracket.
- install the caliper mounting clips as shown in the picture at the beginning of this thread.
- route the brake line and tighten other end.

After this, I should be able to start the bleeding process of the system this weekend.

Note: I bled the MC after mounting it to the firewall and before screwing on the brake line fittings. (You can purchase a MC brake bleeding kit from your local parts store.)

I forgot to include this picture earlier in the thread:
After I replaced the existing bearing seats with the new Timken seats, I finished packing the bearings and installed the seal. I found a good reference picture on Moparts that showed me the correct orientation of the seal.

I finished the assembly on the drivers side. All of the parts bolted on quick and easy and the new SS brake line fell right into place. I should have the passenger side done in 20 minutes and then I will be ready to bleed the system.
Dr D has put together a complete kit with high quality parts. I know that there are several companies selling these types of kits, but what I like about this one is that the valve for the rear line is a direct bolt in piece. The rotors are drilled/slotted/and zinc plated to keep the rust down for when these cars are sitting. Dr D has a few M/C's to choose from depending on your setup. His customer service is excellent. I emailed him several times while deciding on what parts to buy and he answered my questions immediately either on this board or thru my emails. Nice brake kit Dr D!!

Before I started this install, I found several online "How To" articles about the drum to disc swap. I kept referencing Disc-O-Tech (Mopar Action), Moparforums, Moparts, Dr Diff., Master Power Brakes, and Wilwood for reference material. I know that this is not rocket science, but some of these articles were missing some of the small details for those of us first timers. So I tried to make sure that some of these missing details were in the above thread.
So thanks to those who helped answer my questions and for those who are thinking of doing this swap for the first time, I found it helpful to find a kit that is COMPLETE, and Dr D has provided us with one.

Thanks to all and especially Dr D.

If I have missed any details, please feel free to add to the thread.

Note: I should have the system bled this weekend and then all I need to do is reset the torsion bars and get the alignment done.

Another

I finished the brake install this weekend. After I got the system bled, I noticed that the 15/16" bore MC (manual disc brakes) gave the same pedal pressure as the previous manual drum brakes which is exactly what I wanted. This MC size was suggested my Dr D.
While setting the torsion bars, I noticed that the car set higher with the same turns on the adjuster as before. I assume that this is from the taller spindles. After 2 more turns outward on the torsion bar adjusters, I am at the same fender height as before and I am now ready for an alignment.

* Any alignment suggestions from anyone would be greatly appreciated!!

Thanks again Dr D. Nice kit!!

Can the calipers mount on the rear, intead of the front on the spindles? Or does it matter? Reason I ask is I installed a larger anti-sway bar on my car.

Also, how are the rubber bands oriented?

Thanks

I sell different calipers that can be mounted toward the rear due to the fluid port location.

As noted in this thread, the rubber bands wrap around the slider "ways" on the caliper bracket.