I am in the process of installing Dr D's Stage 2 front disc setup for my 70 Challenger (manual disc). I just wanted to let those know who may be in the market for a "kit", that the parts that are supplied by Dr D are very good quality and they bolt right in!
I have currently installed the new spindles, my own lower ball joints, caliper mounting brackets, dust shields, the new combination valve, and the aluminum master cylinder (15/16" bore)/mounting kit. (Note: I am currently waiting on the rotors [RH threads] which should be here today).

The spindles and the mounting brackets bolted right in with no problems. I was assuming that this kit was going to come with an adjustable valve for the rear line, but to my surprise it came with a direct replacement valve that bolted in and all of the lines fit just like the valve that I removed. This is the first time that I have dealt with the new style aluminum MC that has the firewall mounting kit. This is the last time that I will be dealing with the four firewall bolts!!
The only "issue" that I had were with the dust shields which were minimal and it appears that who ever is making these parts, people all over are having the same fitment issues. I read about the issues before I received the kit so I knew that ahead of time. A couple of tweaks to gain access around the knuckle mounting bolts, and they are on. So far with this kit, the shields are the only issue and it took a minute each to fix. The valve was the biggest surprise to me because I did not want to cut into my existing SS brake lines for an adjustable valve. The valve in the kit fit perfectly. The calipers are coated black and look great. I painted the spindles and the caliper mounting brackets just because they came bare and to keep the rust down in the future.

I just wanted to let the members know that Cass has put together a very nice disc brake kit. All of the small parts are separated into bags. All of the bolts, clips, hoses, bearings, brake shoes, calipers (slider type) and spindles are all new and included!

Once I get my rotors, I will able to start on the caliper assembly and I hope to have the kit wrapped up by the end of the week. It is still cold here so I am taking my time when the temps allow.

Thanks Cass!

What is the torque spec for the "lock nut" on the end of the spindle that retains the bearing nut?

Thanks

I pre-load wheel bearings by feel, rather than a specific torque spec.

After greasing the bearings, snug the nut. After spinning the rotor a couple times, the bearings usually loosen up a little. Snug the nut again and install the keeper and cotter pin.

The bearings should not spin freely when installed. In other words, you should be able to feel a LITTLE resistance when you turn the rotor.

Got it, thanks.

(edit: I answered my own question when I got home and looked through my parts. No second locking nut)

Thanks Cass.

I have been asked my some members to post some reference pictures from the kit. I am not done with the installation yet, but until then, I will post some pictures of the progress.
The first picture is from another thread. I needed help with the orientation of these mounting tabs for the calipers.

This is one of the minor mods that I had to do to get the splash shields on around the knuckle mounting nuts. Once again, this is due to the manufacturer not the vendor.(dimples around the large slot at bottom of picture. This gave the access around the knuckle arm mounting nut)

This shows the difference between the stock drum versus the new disc valve that comes in the kit. It bolted up exactly like the old one came off except I had to provide the bolt. All of the existing lines screwed right in as before.

This shows the new aluminum M/C with firewall adapter kit. Any future M/C changes will be made with only two mounting nuts. This one is the 15/16" unit for the manual disc setup. This was one of the M/C options by Dr D for a softer brake pedal.
My existing pictures of the spindle assemblies are fairly dark. I will take better pictures this weekend.

Hello everyone, I need a pointer on how to install the new brake lines to the calipers. I have four small washers and four larger washers. Were do they go?

Thanks

You have extra crush washers because 4 come with the calipers and 4 come with the hoses.

Install 1 copper crush washer against each side of the hose banjo fitting.

Install the hose so it angles downward.

I didn't think that you would be on the board today but I am glad you checked in! Thanks Cass!

Is this the correct position?

Dr D suggested that I test fit the bearings on the spindles before install in the case that there were any burrs on the bearing id's. I did find this issue, so I did as suggested and took some sandpaper and just cleaned the id of the bearings and they slid right on. One of the spindles had a burr on the keyway but some sand paper took care of that too.
Thanks again Cass for the suggestion.

Note: Dust shield orientation incorrect.

The brake hose pictured on the left is installed correctly.

It should angle downward slightly when bolted to the car.

Looks like your splash shield is on backward.

http://www.moparaction.com/tech/archive/disc/12.jpg

That picture is hard to tell but that is the drivers side and the opening in the shield is under the caliper mounting bracket.

Thanks

The splash shield must be mounted with the "dish" facing inward, (toward the engine).

The lip around the center hole must face away from the knuckle.

You need to swap the splash shields side to side.

Thanks, I will swap them tomorrow.

I got the dust shields swapped.

Thanks Cass.

Cass,
Do the new rotors come with bearing races installed?

If so, do I use them or knock them out and use the races that came with the bearings that were provided in the kit?

Thanks again.