I don't post here very often but I check the site out everyday. I am considering going to a dry sump system to gain ground clearance in my Arrow chassis car.I would like to keep the dry sump pump and the tank on the oil pump side and was looking for drawings or pictures of oil pan designs so I can fabricate a pan of my own. Is there anything else I must change in order to switch over. Thanks

BB or SB engine? I have some dry sump pans for sale for both engines. One of them might work for you.

My dry sump pan was a roundy round pan... the pick
ups were on the right side but I welded them closed
and run the picks through the pan and exit on the
drivers side.. pretty easy... I welded the tubes to
the AN fittings then welded the fittings to the pan...
sorry I didnt take any pics... I run 2 pick ups in
the pan with a wall at the #3 bearing area so 1 pick
up is in front of that wall and the other is at the
back... plus I put in the one way screen for helping
windage

Big block. Thanks for the replies

I have this pan for sale. It is fairly low profile. It is set up for a 5 stage pump but I've run it as a 3 stage setup before and it worked okay.

My question is why? I run a dry sump on my motor and its a pain, with the pump, and hoses,tank,filter it takes up alot of space.

just put a dragster pan on it its almost as short as a drysump pan (I know I run them both ) If you are going to a dry sump system for ground clearance only its a very expensive way to do it. 4000.00 for a system that is not a used bunch of crap.
I think a friend of mine has a used dragster pan for sale I think he wants 150.00 for it, I will measure it and let you know what it is.

I get a very uneasy feeling whenever I brake after a run and the oil pressure goes to 0. I thought the dragster pans are designed for motors that are shut off right after the run. I agree that a pan like that if it could control the deceleration oil slosh would be much easier.

They do have trap doors in them to catch the oil when you lift. I had one going 7.50's all day long with no problem and I never shut it off after a run. Sorry I did not get a chance to measure that pan but I will get to it asap

Bruce

I have said this before and maybe it bares repeating here. There is HP in a GOOD oil pan period! It sees to be one of those areas guys dont seem to want to or like to spend money on. Windage is an inherent issue with a BB Mopar. Control that windage and the resulting oil in suspension will make power. A properly designed pan will make power, control windage and will be able to control oil on decel. Just saying

OK Al,

I currently have a Charlie's pan on my Cuda, but would be interested in a better pan... What do you recommend? Anyone use o-ring seal?

I hate the oil leaks I am having now. Good thing I have a vaccum pump, but it leaks in the trailer.

Still using torsion bars, and draglink goes through the pan.

Ideas?

Arne

Bump!

Lets keep talking about oil pans...

Arnie

Arnie IMO if you need to run a drag link through the pan thee is not much you can do. My suggestion is find a way to use a dragster style pan and then you can begin to worry about oil control. For what you have a scraper and windage tray is about all you can do.

Ask for this for Christmas

I have this pump I'm selling pretty cheap... I never
ran it but it is a used one(came off a Viper build
we were doing then they changed directions).. it had
dyno time on it

MrP is that a Dialey pump? If so shoot me a PM

Dailey's billet pan with dry sump pump, no hoses.

Hey Lance,

What about an accusump. It's a way cheaper alternative to a dry sump. Not nearly as cool but it works and you get the benefit of a pre oiler.

I have no issues with my flat bottom pan. I built it myself but I do have the Indy swinging pick up. The accusump is just a little insurance! Just a thought.

I was thinking of putting the swinging pickup in the pan as opposed to the fixed pick up at the back of the pan. An accusump would be easier to install for sure. Don't have alot of room in the engine compartment of the Arrow, not like the Charger.

I have see them put all over the place. If I remember correctly I have seen them in the trunk. I would highly recommend the electric solenoid regardless of where you put it. May have to rev the motor up prior to shutting it off to get the pressure up. I have seen your fabrication skills. I am pretty sure a Winterhawk fabrication bracket could easily be constructed.