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I should just do the 505 cubes .I think it will be more fun. What do you guys suggest?

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The 505 cubes. My next one will be a 535 (30 over/4.5" stroke). No one that I have ever spoken with has lamented after the fact that they just have too much power

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awesome, I am gonna do it. I just never had a stroked motor and just wanted too know what some of you dudes thought. It is going to be a max wedge clone car. The car will appear stock. But it should be a beast I hope. I have both sets 0f 3447 carbs or 3705 carbs. Will the larger 3705 carbs be better for the 505 cubes? I would think so.

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Dude, you do know that the rear tires are the limiting factor on how much power you can put to the ground, correct? I've owned and raced several Max wedge cars over the years, a couple of Street Hemi cars also . I ran both size carbs, the 3447 on the M.W. Stocker and the 3705 on the M.W. bracket car, the bracket car had a 440 short block and it had a full 12 point cage so it weighed about 250 lbs more than the stocker, it had a Dana 70 in it with big tires and wheels on the rear, it was right at .2 ET quicker and 2.0 mph faster than the stocker They where both fun to drive My last pump gas street and strip car was a 512 C.I. 400 stroker that started off with a set of ported big valve 906 iron heads and a stock type low deck six pak, it ended up with a set of Indy SR heads with M.W. ports and a single Dominator 1050 CFM carb. on it, it was a flat out blast to drive If your going to run stock type iron heads don't shoot for or use more than 9.5 to 1 compression My 512 C.i. pump gas stroker made 612 Hp at 5600 RPM and 644 Ft lbs of torque at 4500 RPM on CA pump swill back in 2003 with 9 1/4 to 1 true compression ratio with the 906 heads and six pak, yours will make quiet a bit more HP and torque than that with the M.W. heads and intake and carbs, trust me on that Get ready to live your dream or be scared to death

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I be strokin. Hey that red 63 is awesome. Going to be using a Miloden circle track pan. I don't want it hanging down too far. Heard I will have to notch my K-member. I would rather just beat my pan in a little.

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Thank you for the kind words. I am using the Moroso oil pan and it has good clearence as the angle of the pic makes it look less but its a good 5 to 6 inches of room. And it fit in the K-frame with no cutting or modifying anything as the eng dropped right in. Been driving on the street since 2006 and the pan has never hit anything. Ron

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So the only thing you need to stroke a stock 440 is a bigger crank?

I just rebuilt my 440 with stealth heads, cam, CH4B and 800cfm and am now wondering if I should have got a bigger crank if that's all it took?

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You would need pistons with the wrist pin higher in the the piston(stroker piston).

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Leave the stock crank in my 440. 3.75 stroke.Or buy an eagle crank and stroke 440 to 505 cubes and 4.25 stroke. It is going to have max wedge heads and crossram and stock cast iron max headers. 9.5 to one compression. I should just do the 505 cubes .I think it will be more fun. What do you guys suggest?

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Depends on your end goal.If you are going to run it hard,maybe do a little racing fine,if you want to just drive it and make it look pretty,put your money somewhere else ! I have a few friends that have them just for the "I've got a stroker wow " ! No interest but that's just me .

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If you need a new crank then you're dead even, if your old crank was still good then you're only out the difference of a new crank vs. rebuilding your old crank. So maybe $300 difference for the extra cubic inches.

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Haven't completely reread the OP info to see if he's starting with a cast or forged crank. If cast, time to upgrade, go stroker for no extra cost. If forged, resell to a guy that wants to cut it down for a 400/451 build.

Strokers/torque rule on the street!