400 Stroker Build Suggestions
#1521295
10/22/13 10:16 AM
10/22/13 10:16 AM
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Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 6,445 Missouri
68KillerBee
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Missouri
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So I'm planning on doing a stroker motor for my super bee over the winter. Here are the for sure things: Stealth heads, 383 rpm intake and holley 750. Should I go with the Muscle Motors or 440source kits? I have a line on a 1973 400 block (have to see if it's ever been bored out though). My car has manual steering/brakes and a 4 speed with 3.55's in the rearend right now. 295/50-15's are the rear tire size. Down the line (next year) I will get an 18 spline hemi box and a dana(with probably the same gear ratio ~3.54). I drive my car a lot and have only taken it to the strip a few times (best run of only a 14.5 w/ my low compression motor). Must have decent street manors and get at least 20 mpg (jk about the mpgs ) It has stock hp manifolds on it, but I will probably get rid of those in favor of some headers. The prices on the two kits are comparable, obviously a lot of people talk down on the 440source stuff but it is what it is. I mounted my heads on right out of the box and had no problems with it. Muscle motors search on here shows mixed opinions. This is my first performance engine build so any input is welcome! thanks -devin
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Re: 400 Stroker Build Suggestions
[Re: dogdays]
#1521297
10/22/13 02:23 PM
10/22/13 02:23 PM
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 5,160 Texas
dannysbee
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1. Set a performance goal 2. Find a shop that does precision machine work 3. Have any kits that you do buy checked 4. Work with a pro when selecting your cam. Someone that is familiar with mopars. 5. Keep compression 9.5-10 with cast iron 10-10.5 aluminum heads 6. Keep quench around .040
Getting old just means you were smarter than some and luckier than others.
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Re: 400 Stroker Build Suggestions
[Re: dannysbee]
#1521299
10/22/13 11:40 PM
10/22/13 11:40 PM
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Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 6,445 Missouri
68KillerBee
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Quote:
1. Set a performance goal 2. Find a shop that does precision machine work 3. Have any kits that you do buy checked 4. Work with a pro when selecting your cam. Someone that is familiar with mopars. 5. Keep compression 9.5-10 with cast iron 10-10.5 aluminum heads 6. Keep quench around .040
I want to run mid to low 12's. I will likely have to switch up gear ratio and tire size though?? I have a good machine shop to double check whatever I end up getting, along with doing my machine work.
The cam is another thing that I need to know about.
Thanks
I went to performance only website and there is pretty much nothing on there. I need to be able to read all the info on what all is in the kits.
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Re: 400 Stroker Build Suggestions
[Re: 68KillerBee]
#1521300
10/23/13 12:17 AM
10/23/13 12:17 AM
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 43,007 Bend,OR USA
Cab_Burge
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Quote:
So I'm planning on doing a stroker motor for my super bee over the winter. Here are the for sure things: Stealth heads, 383 rpm intake and holley 750. Should I go with the Muscle Motors or 440source kits? I have a line on a 1973 400 block (have to see if it's ever been bored out though). My car has manual steering/brakes and a 4 speed with 3.55's in the rearend right now. 295/50-15's are the rear tire size. Down the line (next year) I will get an 18 spline hemi box and a dana(with probably the same gear ratio ~3.54). I drive my car a lot and have only taken it to the strip a few times (best run of only a 14.5 w/ my low compression motor). Must have decent street manors and get at least 20 mpg (jk about the mpgs ) It has stock hp manifolds on it, but I will probably get rid of those in favor of some headers.
The prices on the two kits are comparable, obviously a lot of people talk down on the 440source stuff but it is what it is. I mounted my heads on right out of the box and had no problems with it. Muscle motors search on here shows mixed opinions. This is my first performance engine build so any input is welcome! thanks -devin
I'm sure there are more than one C.I. strokers kits avaible for the low deck 400 blocks, 452 C.I., 470 C.I., 496 and 505 to 512 C.I. depending on the bore and stroker sizes on all of them , how big do you want to go to now? I like the 4.25 stroke kits n the 400 blocks . I have built and driven several of them(4.25 stroke 400 blocks, 505 to 512 C.I.) in the last ten years, the increase in C.I. from a 383 to a 451 should amaze you , the 512 will absolutely shock the beejesues out of you On the four speed car I would buy another set of wheels that match the current ones you have on the rear and put a god set of bias ply street legal DOT drag tires on them for the days you want to be shoved way back in the seat when you nail the throttle to the floor instead of going sideways in a cloud of smoke from the radials I've had both types of the same tires on my 727 automatic Duster with a pump gas 512 low deck, it would flat boil the 315x60x15 M/T ET Street radials on the street, not so on the same size(13.50x30x15) ET Street Bias ply tires The radials where faster on a good track, not so on the streets I drive on around here. The bias plys might spin a 1/4 to 2 full turns on the hit and then hook and stay hooked, the radials would not recover once they started to spin in any gear, I would have to let off to keep from going sidewasy into the other lane with the radials on the back The four speed will be much worst on the street than my 727 was
Mr.Cab Racing and winning with Mopars since 1964. (Old F--t, Huh)
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Re: 400 Stroker Build Suggestions
[Re: dogdays]
#1521304
10/23/13 04:59 PM
10/23/13 04:59 PM
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Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 4,319 Puyallup, WA
StealthWedge67
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Goals are mid to low 12's.... A 451 will get you there in quick order, and you could easily source the parts yourself and save about $500 over a "kit". Thats exactly what I did, and my motor has proven to be rock solid. My car is perfectly streetable and runs solidly into the 11's. For an extra $100 or so, you can offset grind the crank, and build a 470. The few hundred you save will be enough to invest in a bigger carb (you're gonna need it). I spent right around 5k on my motor a few years ago. I used a forged 413 crank sorced off Craigslist. I ran across a 230 casting 400 block on craigslist. Got an Engle solid cam / lifters / springs through Moparts member Jeff Patterson. Bought the rest of it online (Iconn pistons w/ Mahle rings; Scat Rods; Source Stealth heads; etc....) It was a fun build and I'm real happy with it.
Last edited by StealthWedge67; 10/23/13 05:02 PM.
LemonWedge - Street heavy / Strip ready - 11.07 @ 120
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Re: 400 Stroker Build Suggestions
[Re: Streetwize]
#1521305
10/23/13 05:08 PM
10/23/13 05:08 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 74,907 U.S.S.A.
JohnRR
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Quote:
Pplease consider adding Dan Costello Moparts member Performance Only to your list of potential stroker kit suppliers
Quality and service SECOND TO NONE
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Re: 400 Stroker Build Suggestions
[Re: 68KillerBee]
#1521306
10/23/13 05:13 PM
10/23/13 05:13 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 74,907 U.S.S.A.
JohnRR
I Win
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Quote:
I went to performance only website and there is pretty much nothing on there. I need to be able to read all the info on what all is in the kits.
Humans are visual creatures but this is one of those cases where you are better off CALLING Dan , telling him what you want to do and what your goals are , Dan will ask you a few questions and tell you exactly what you need without trying to sell you something you don't need.
I prefer to SPEAK to people instead of just blindly ordering something online , that way you get EXACTLY what you want/need instead of wasting your time, and money, getting the wrong part ... or worse having to send parts back ON YOUR DIME WHEN THE PARTS ARE OBVIOUSLY SUB STANDARD ....
was that internet crap enough
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Re: 400 Stroker Build Suggestions
[Re: 68KillerBee]
#1521307
10/23/13 07:03 PM
10/23/13 07:03 PM
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Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 89 Cleveland, Ohio
BB73Challenger
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Quote:
I want to run mid to low 12's. I will likely have to switch up gear ratio and tire size though??
I drove 40 miles each way to the track in my street trim Challenger boasting 4 speed and a 499 ci 440 source kit & 400 block. 3:55 rear, Indy Firehawk street tires. Rolled through the traps and still got into the 12's ( drop the clutch and blow the tires off the line ) Your combo will have NO problems with a well built mill. Frankly I like the 3:55 gear and would not go steeper for freeway drivin'
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Re: 400 Stroker Build Suggestions
[Re: JohnRR]
#1521308
10/23/13 07:42 PM
10/23/13 07:42 PM
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Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 2,091 Delray beach, Florida
Performance Only
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Quote:
Quote:
I went to performance only website and there is pretty much nothing on there. I need to be able to read all the info on what all is in the kits.
Humans are visual creatures but this is one of those cases where you are better off CALLING Dan , telling him what you want to do and what your goals are , Dan will ask you a few questions and tell you exactly what you need without trying to sell you something you don't need.
I prefer to SPEAK to people instead of just blindly ordering something online , that way you get EXACTLY what you want/need instead of wasting your time, and money, getting the wrong part ... or worse having to send parts back ON YOUR DIME WHEN THE PARTS ARE OBVIOUSLY SUB STANDARD ....
was that internet crap enough
John, As you know, anybody can ship out boxed up parts and reap the rewards without any personal liability for said parts. If there's a problem it goes back to the manufacturer, and for the most part people will end up paying the freight and often times the repair costs. Where we try to excel is by selling complete kits that are thoroughly checked out to make sure there's no problems, we balance the assembly and set the rod bearing clearances, provide torque specs for the rods. (we disassemble clean, cycle the bolts and then stretch the bolt to proper length and note the torque needed) and verify the actual bearing clearances for the intended application. Obviously we charge more for all the extra work, but when you buy one of our kits the only clearances you need to check are the main bearings. all the other work is done for you. We've sold a lot of kits to Moparts members and the fact that I haven't heard a single bad word about our kits is something I'm proud of. Many people shop by lowest price alone and I fully understand that. If lowest price is what you need, so be it, but if you want a true no hassle rotating assembly, that's where we shine.
Last edited by Performance Only; 10/23/13 07:43 PM.
machine shop owner and engine builder
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Re: 400 Stroker Build Suggestions
[Re: Performance Only]
#1521309
10/23/13 09:05 PM
10/23/13 09:05 PM
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Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 6,445 Missouri
68KillerBee
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Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
I went to performance only website and there is pretty much nothing on there. I need to be able to read all the info on what all is in the kits.
Humans are visual creatures but this is one of those cases where you are better off CALLING Dan , telling him what you want to do and what your goals are , Dan will ask you a few questions and tell you exactly what you need without trying to sell you something you don't need.
I prefer to SPEAK to people instead of just blindly ordering something online , that way you get EXACTLY what you want/need instead of wasting your time, and money, getting the wrong part ... or worse having to send parts back ON YOUR DIME WHEN THE PARTS ARE OBVIOUSLY SUB STANDARD ....
was that internet crap enough
John, As you know, anybody can ship out boxed up parts and reap the rewards without any personal liability for said parts. If there's a problem it goes back to the manufacturer, and for the most part people will end up paying the freight and often times the repair costs. Where we try to excel is by selling complete kits that are thoroughly checked out to make sure there's no problems, we balance the assembly and set the rod bearing clearances, provide torque specs for the rods. (we disassemble clean, cycle the bolts and then stretch the bolt to proper length and note the torque needed) and verify the actual bearing clearances for the intended application. Obviously we charge more for all the extra work, but when you buy one of our kits the only clearances you need to check are the main bearings. all the other work is done for you. We've sold a lot of kits to Moparts members and the fact that I haven't heard a single bad word about our kits is something I'm proud of. Many people shop by lowest price alone and I fully understand that. If lowest price is what you need, so be it, but if you want a true no hassle rotating assembly, that's where we shine.
I'll try to call you up this week. My problem with not being able to see/read what I'm getting is I work nights and sleep all day. So I can't really call because everything is closed. Except every three weeks I get 5 days off in a row and that would be this current week. Thanks everyone else for all the comments. I guess once I pick everything else out I will ask about cam selection (509 was one suggestion on here so far).
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Re: 400 Stroker Build Suggestions
[Re: 68KillerBee]
#1521311
10/23/13 10:43 PM
10/23/13 10:43 PM
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Joined: May 2003
Posts: 6,545 Downtown Roebuck Ont
Twostick
Still wishing...
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Still wishing...
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 6,545
Downtown Roebuck Ont
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Quote:
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I went to performance only website and there is pretty much nothing on there. I need to be able to read all the info on what all is in the kits.
Humans are visual creatures but this is one of those cases where you are better off CALLING Dan , telling him what you want to do and what your goals are , Dan will ask you a few questions and tell you exactly what you need without trying to sell you something you don't need.
I prefer to SPEAK to people instead of just blindly ordering something online , that way you get EXACTLY what you want/need instead of wasting your time, and money, getting the wrong part ... or worse having to send parts back ON YOUR DIME WHEN THE PARTS ARE OBVIOUSLY SUB STANDARD ....
was that internet crap enough
John, As you know, anybody can ship out boxed up parts and reap the rewards without any personal liability for said parts. If there's a problem it goes back to the manufacturer, and for the most part people will end up paying the freight and often times the repair costs. Where we try to excel is by selling complete kits that are thoroughly checked out to make sure there's no problems, we balance the assembly and set the rod bearing clearances, provide torque specs for the rods. (we disassemble clean, cycle the bolts and then stretch the bolt to proper length and note the torque needed) and verify the actual bearing clearances for the intended application. Obviously we charge more for all the extra work, but when you buy one of our kits the only clearances you need to check are the main bearings. all the other work is done for you. We've sold a lot of kits to Moparts members and the fact that I haven't heard a single bad word about our kits is something I'm proud of. Many people shop by lowest price alone and I fully understand that. If lowest price is what you need, so be it, but if you want a true no hassle rotating assembly, that's where we shine.
I'll try to call you up this week. My problem with not being able to see/read what I'm getting is I work nights and sleep all day. So I can't really call because everything is closed. Except every three weeks I get 5 days off in a row and that would be this current week. Thanks everyone else for all the comments. I guess once I pick everything else out I will ask about cam selection (509 was one suggestion on here so far).
I don't know if I would recommend that cam or not but it did make the number .
Kevin
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Re: 400 Stroker Build Suggestions
[Re: Twostick]
#1521312
10/24/13 09:57 AM
10/24/13 09:57 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,963 Frostbitefalls MN (Rocky&Bullw...
gregsdart
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Frostbitefalls MN (Rocky&Bullw...
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Dan has an excellent rep here, and would be my choice. I have learned a lot from his posts in the ten+ years I have been on this board. You won't go wrong going as big as you can on cubes. Heavy street cars with 3.54 gears need torque, and a 512 has the most. Pick your desired manners, then decide what type of cam, then cam specs, then the rest of the parts. The compression can then be decided on once you pick the cam, along with the style of intake manifold and headers. There are so many possible combinations that it is best to do it in this order.
8..603 156 mph best, 2905 lbs 549, indy 572-13, alky
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Re: 400 Stroker Build Suggestions
[Re: gregsdart]
#1521313
10/24/13 10:24 AM
10/24/13 10:24 AM
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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The price for basic rotating assemblies is the same so going big is a no brainer.
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Re: 400 Stroker Build Suggestions
[Re: Streetwize]
#1521315
10/31/13 04:44 AM
10/31/13 04:44 AM
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Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 6,445 Missouri
68KillerBee
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What about oiling system? Would the stock stuff be good enough on a stroker? I have a brand new 402 pan I bought earlier this year. Sounds like I will need a different windage tray. I've been looking at just getting a S60 rear from Dr. Diff with 3.54 or 3.73's. Buying an original dana and getting it up to snuff with an S60, I'm better off getting the S60 right off the bat. Just need to sell my air grabber hood to pay for that. What clutch set up do A833 drivers use? I want this to be very streetable so I'm thinking 470, maybe a 500. But probably not -Devin
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Re: 400 Stroker Build Suggestions
[Re: 68KillerBee]
#1521316
10/31/13 08:43 AM
10/31/13 08:43 AM
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Joined: May 2004
Posts: 12,379 Taxes & Virus's R-US, NY
Dragula
I Live Here
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I Live Here
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Taxes & Virus's R-US, NY
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Been thinking of putting a spare short block togather myself using a 400 block we have down at the shop. We currently race a pump gas RB 512 with a Hughes girdle, and what a beast...33" tall tires and a 4.56 gear leaving at 1900, shifting at 6400...9.97 and there is more left in it.
What's interesting is we had 4.88 gears, and switched to 4.56's and the 60ft remained the same, and yet, overall, the car went faster...TORQUE is KING!
Last edited by Dragula; 10/31/13 09:32 AM.
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Re: 400 Stroker Build Suggestions
[Re: 68KillerBee]
#1521317
10/31/13 10:56 AM
10/31/13 10:56 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 74,907 U.S.S.A.
JohnRR
I Win
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Quote:
What about oiling system? Would the stock stuff be good enough on a stroker? I have a brand new 402 pan I bought earlier this year. Sounds like I will need a different windage tray. I've been looking at just getting a S60 rear from Dr. Diff with 3.54 or 3.73's. Buying an original dana and getting it up to snuff with an S60, I'm better off getting the S60 right off the bat. Just need to sell my air grabber hood to pay for that. What clutch set up do A833 drivers use?
I want this to be very streetable so I'm thinking 470, maybe a 500. But probably not
-Devin
I would put the 70 up Hemi pan on it , you don't have any more oil passage length but having the extra oil is a good thing , you'll probably want to add the hemi skid plate though because the pan will be flush with the bottom of the K. Do the oil system mods , minus the cam bearing restriction , outlined in the tech section, Especially the enlarging of the passages from the main galley to the mains , sometimes they could be restricted by casting .
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Re: 400 Stroker Build Suggestions
[Re: JohnRR]
#1521318
10/31/13 10:48 PM
10/31/13 10:48 PM
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Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 7,664 IN
ahy
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IN
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Quote:
Quote:
What about oiling system? Would the stock stuff be good enough on a stroker? I have a brand new 402 pan I bought earlier this year. Sounds like I will need a different windage tray. I've been looking at just getting a S60 rear from Dr. Diff with 3.54 or 3.73's. Buying an original dana and getting it up to snuff with an S60, I'm better off getting the S60 right off the bat. Just need to sell my air grabber hood to pay for that. What clutch set up do A833 drivers use?
I want this to be very streetable so I'm thinking 470, maybe a 500. But probably not
-Devin
I would put the 70 up Hemi pan on it , you don't have any more oil passage length but having the extra oil is a good thing , you'll probably want to add the hemi skid plate though because the pan will be flush with the bottom of the K. Do the oil system mods , minus the cam bearing restriction , outlined in the tech section, Especially the enlarging of the passages from the main galley to the mains , sometimes they could be restricted by casting .
Agree you want at least some extra oil capacity and the Hemi pan is a great option. You didn't state stroke and CI which makes this a fun post.
With Stealth heads, you can set it up to make about the same power with a 3.75 stroke/451 cu in, 3.9x/470, 4.15/496 and 4.25/512. The bigger engines will have more torque and make peak power at lower RPM. The 451 and 470 usually use a piston with enough compression height so top ring supports are not required... a benefit. The 512 is really big for Stealth heads and would run out of breath at pretty low RPM (low 5000's?). The 496 with 6.76 rod uses a short light piston with top ring support. It revs like a smaller lighter engine. That said the short piston is considered a durability drawback... although my Ed head lowdeck 496 has 15k miles and no signs of distress at all.
As many have said, vendors you mentioned are good as well as others. I worked with Muscle Motors for several reasons. They mildly ported and prepped the heads, helped me pick a "custom" cam, provided other parts and advice.
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Re: 400 Stroker Build Suggestions
[Re: ahy]
#1521319
11/01/13 09:48 AM
11/01/13 09:48 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,963 Frostbitefalls MN (Rocky&Bullw...
gregsdart
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The bigger the motor, the more streetable it will be, and the fastest under your restrictions. You have a beautiful ride there, do it justice with a very good build and stretch the budget to the minimum good parts your chosen engine builder wants you to run. The great thing about a 512 is it will have the most torque down low, and the car will pull like it has 4.10 gears in it, even though it has 3.54s. You will not regret this choice.
8..603 156 mph best, 2905 lbs 549, indy 572-13, alky
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Re: 400 Stroker Build Suggestions
[Re: 80fbody]
#1521321
11/01/13 11:12 AM
11/01/13 11:12 AM
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Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 6,445 Missouri
68KillerBee
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Quote:
Stealth heads are not going to really support a 500+ inch motor in my amatuer opinion. 470 is great low deck combo with a light piston & will work within your head limits. Check out the motor just built & dynoed on FABO. Look in the Big Block section. Had over 600ft of torque & over 580hp. A nice street motor that puts the power down by putting together a package.
470 seems like the magic number to shoot for. The one on fabo sounds awesome, except the whole "$10,500-11,500"! My budget will be A LOT lower than that. Plus I still have to change over to 18 spline stuff and Dana rear. Hmmmm once again I do appreciate all of the comments that will help me through this build. I will try to change this into a"in progress" thread as I build the motor.
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Re: 400 Stroker Build Suggestions
[Re: 80fbody]
#1521323
11/01/13 02:07 PM
11/01/13 02:07 PM
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Joined: May 2003
Posts: 6,545 Downtown Roebuck Ont
Twostick
Still wishing...
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Still wishing...
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 6,545
Downtown Roebuck Ont
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What the smaller cube people don't seem to take into account IMHO when they quote the "same" or similar HP and torque numbers as the 500 cube combos is the fact that it takes more compression and RPM to hit those numbers. That means finding gas that it will be happy with might become a challenge IF you were to push the envelope more towards a max effort. It also means having to spin it up to 6800+ to get that peak number and being as this looks more like a street brawler than a track car, how often will you really get to do that without attracting the "wrong" kind of attention. Also the kind of cam it will take to make those 500 cube numbers while fun at first might get old a little quicker than some will admit. Will Stealths support 500 cubes? Depends on how high you intend to spin it. What they will support is the same HP number a 470 will at less RPM. To use my arbitrary 500 @ 6800 number for the 470, the 500 combo should hit the same number at say 5000 and the torque curve will be proportionately lower as well. What that means in the real world is that at basically a dead idle you could side step the clutch, smash the throttle to the rug and watch the back of the car disappear in a cloud of tire smoke. With 3.23 gears. Torque is your friend. To use my own 8.9:1 combo and assuming your B-body is 3800 lbs you could be running mid 12.Oh's on regular gas and a reasonably power brake friendly cam. You said you were going with an 18 spline and a Dana too. Nice upgrades but unless you have them already or intend a lot of track time with DOT slicks or better I would spend some of that money having Modern or Dwayne Porter optimize your Stealths. The tires will be the fuse that will protect your driveline. Dwayne would also be the go to guy to spec you the "right" cam for your project. Kevin
Last edited by Twostick; 11/01/13 02:09 PM.
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Re: 400 Stroker Build Suggestions
[Re: Twostick]
#1521324
11/01/13 07:24 PM
11/01/13 07:24 PM
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Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 4,319 Puyallup, WA
StealthWedge67
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Quote:
What the smaller cube people don't seem to take into account IMHO when they quote the "same" or similar HP and torque numbers as the 500 cube combos is the fact that it takes more compression and RPM to hit those numbers. That means finding gas that it will be happy with might become a challenge IF you were to push the envelope more towards a max effort. It also means having to spin it up to 6800+ to get that peak number and being as this looks more like a street brawler than a track car, how often will you really get to do that without attracting the "wrong" kind of attention. Also the kind of cam it will take to make those 500 cube numbers while fun at first might get old a little quicker than some will admit.
Will Stealths support 500 cubes? Depends on how high you intend to spin it. What they will support is the same HP number a 470 will at less RPM. To use my arbitrary 500 @ 6800 number for the 470, the 500 combo should hit the same number at say 5000 and the torque curve will be proportionately lower as well.
What that means in the real world is that at basically a dead idle you could side step the clutch, smash the throttle to the rug and watch the back of the car disappear in a cloud of tire smoke. With 3.23 gears. Torque is your friend.
To use my own 8.9:1 combo and assuming your B-body is 3800 lbs you could be running mid 12.Oh's on regular gas and a reasonably power brake friendly cam.
You said you were going with an 18 spline and a Dana too. Nice upgrades but unless you have them already or intend a lot of track time with DOT slicks or better I would spend some of that money having Modern or Dwayne Porter optimize your Stealths. The tires will be the fuse that will protect your driveline. Dwayne would also be the go to guy to spec you the "right" cam for your project.
Kevin
When looking at HP only, you make good points, Kevin. However, there is another side to the 500" coin. SHORT PISTONS with OIL SUPPORT RINGS. Source uses a 1.12 ht. piston for goodness sake! Not that it cant work, it will.... but for a street motor that is going to see mostly low RPM use, Its not the way I would go. The longevity OR reliability of a 500" short block won't be what a similarly built 470 would. The guys goals are low 12 second street car for goodness sake. Building a 500 cube short block that requires oil support rings for this desired performance level does not make sense to me. Besides, its not like 470 cubes is small. It would still be the biggest mill at most any cruise night burger stand.
My : 1)470 2)451
LemonWedge - Street heavy / Strip ready - 11.07 @ 120
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Re: 400 Stroker Build Suggestions
[Re: StealthWedge67]
#1521327
11/01/13 10:44 PM
11/01/13 10:44 PM
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Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 19,317 State of confusion
Thumperdart
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 19,317
State of confusion
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Quote:
Quote:
What the smaller cube people don't seem to take into account IMHO when they quote the "same" or similar HP and torque numbers as the 500 cube combos is the fact that it takes more compression and RPM to hit those numbers. That means finding gas that it will be happy with might become a challenge IF you were to push the envelope more towards a max effort. It also means having to spin it up to 6800+ to get that peak number and being as this looks more like a street brawler than a track car, how often will you really get to do that without attracting the "wrong" kind of attention. Also the kind of cam it will take to make those 500 cube numbers while fun at first might get old a little quicker than some will admit.
Will Stealths support 500 cubes? Depends on how high you intend to spin it. What they will support is the same HP number a 470 will at less RPM. To use my arbitrary 500 @ 6800 number for the 470, the 500 combo should hit the same number at say 5000 and the torque curve will be proportionately lower as well.
What that means in the real world is that at basically a dead idle you could side step the clutch, smash the throttle to the rug and watch the back of the car disappear in a cloud of tire smoke. With 3.23 gears. Torque is your friend.
To use my own 8.9:1 combo and assuming your B-body is 3800 lbs you could be running mid 12.Oh's on regular gas and a reasonably power brake friendly cam.
You said you were going with an 18 spline and a Dana too. Nice upgrades but unless you have them already or intend a lot of track time with DOT slicks or better I would spend some of that money having Modern or Dwayne Porter optimize your Stealths. The tires will be the fuse that will protect your driveline. Dwayne would also be the go to guy to spec you the "right" cam for your project.
Kevin
When looking at HP only, you make good points, Kevin. However, there is another side to the 500" coin. SHORT PISTONS with OIL SUPPORT RINGS. Source uses a 1.12 ht. piston for goodness sake! Not that it cant work, it will.... but for a street motor that is going to see mostly low RPM use, Its not the way I would go. The longevity OR reliability of a 500" short block won't be what a similarly built 470 would. The guys goals are low 12 second street car for goodness sake. Building a 500 cube short block that requires oil support rings for this desired performance level does not make sense to me. Besides, its not like 470 cubes is small. It would still be the biggest mill at most any cruise night burger stand.
My : 1)470 2)451
My little 470 is a hoot to drive around and race and even w/275-280 @.050 duration, 8" vert and 1050 dommy, it idles and drives fine and doesn`t overheat..........
72 Dart 470 n/a BB stroker street car `THUMPER`...Check me out on FB Dominic Thumper for videos and lots of carb pics......760-900-3895.....
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Re: 400 Stroker Build Suggestions
[Re: barracuda7199]
#1521330
11/02/13 01:52 AM
11/02/13 01:52 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,963 Frostbitefalls MN (Rocky&Bullw...
gregsdart
master
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master
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Posts: 9,963
Frostbitefalls MN (Rocky&Bullw...
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As for those Stealth heads not supporting 500 inches, well, I heartily disagree. They will support them just fine, just at a lower rpm. I have run 535 cubes with 906 heads, so I have some experience with this. A stealth headed 451 will peak torque about 4500 rpm with the right parts, a 512 with the same heads 3900 rpm. The 451 will want more rpm, say up to 6,000 with a street/strip cam. The 512 would be making the same power by 5300 rpm. Which one do you think will pull hardest with a street gear?
8..603 156 mph best, 2905 lbs 549, indy 572-13, alky
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Re: 400 Stroker Build Suggestions
[Re: gregsdart]
#1521331
11/02/13 02:26 PM
11/02/13 02:26 PM
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Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 6,445 Missouri
68KillerBee
OP
master
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OP
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It is sounding like 470 is a happy medium to go to. I'm sure this will be more than fast enough for me for now. Especially coming from my "fastest" vehicle going a 13.9 in the quarter. I will mull it over for a bit with my cousin (has built a stroker for his duster) and the guy doing machine work about going bigger than that. I will probably wait until December to buy all of the parts, in anticipation that some businesses will have some sort of christmas sales. Our truck is broken for the moment so I can't pick up the block I found yet. But its apparently a standard bore 1973 motor.
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Re: 400 Stroker Build Suggestions
[Re: 68KillerBee]
#1521332
11/08/13 04:12 PM
11/08/13 04:12 PM
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Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 6,445 Missouri
68KillerBee
OP
master
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Missouri
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I am going to convert this to my build thread once it gets rolling. In the mean time, our truck should be fixed by Monday to get the motor, I'll take it apart next week and hopefully get it to the machine shop to see what it needs to be bored out to. Then the decisions will begins. I currently just have hp exhaust manifolds on the car with 2.5 inch exhaust and an x pipe and electric cutouts. I've always wanted to keep it looking stock from the engine bay (main reason I got stealth heads) but I know how important headers can be. Got lucky and scored a set that was just bolted up to a car but they found out it wouldn't fit. Paid 250 and brand new they are ~900!! Gotta love Craigslist. Only down side is they say they're for a 440, but TTI's website seems to show them to be the same as for a B motor. "440-178C5" is the part number and they have 1 7/8 od tubes. Says it's good for 400-600 hp. Am selling my air grabber hood this week hopefully so that will free up a bunch of money. Getting excited TTI's website: http://www.ttiexhaust.com/Category-Headers/383440-178/383440-178headers_RB.htm
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Re: 400 Stroker Build Suggestions
[Re: JohnRR]
#1521334
11/08/13 05:48 PM
11/08/13 05:48 PM
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Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 6,445 Missouri
68KillerBee
OP
master
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Missouri
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Quote:
If you can use a shelf piston have it bored to 4.375 , assuming it sonic checks ok , that is a standard oversize for 400 based strokers.
Assuming this hasn't been said.
Bore .035 over, got it. Thanks!
Looks like the 1 7/8's headers I have are specific for 383 or 440. The 1 3/4's are interchangeable, dang. Waiting for a call back from TTI. Looks like I gotta find someone to swap these with.
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Re: 400 Stroker Build Suggestions
[Re: 68KillerBee]
#1521335
11/08/13 06:42 PM
11/08/13 06:42 PM
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 43,007 Bend,OR USA
Cab_Burge
I Win
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I Win
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 43,007
Bend,OR USA
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Quote:
Quote:
If you can use a shelf piston have it bored to 4.375 , assuming it sonic checks ok , that is a standard oversize for 400 based strokers.
Assuming this hasn't been said.
Bore .035 over, got it. Thanks!
Looks like the 1 7/8's headers I have are specific for 383 or 440. The 1 3/4's are interchangeable, dang. Waiting for a call back from TTI. Looks like I gotta find someone to swap these with.
Do NOT go DOWN in primary tube size if you want the motor to breathe the best it can You have the 1 7/8, why would you want to go down to the 1 3/4 inch tubes
Mr.Cab Racing and winning with Mopars since 1964. (Old F--t, Huh)
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Re: 400 Stroker Build Suggestions
[Re: dogdays]
#1521337
11/08/13 07:59 PM
11/08/13 07:59 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,963 Frostbitefalls MN (Rocky&Bullw...
gregsdart
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,963
Frostbitefalls MN (Rocky&Bullw...
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If you have concerns about too short of a piston, look at what a factory 454 chevy runs! The pistons look like hockey pucks to us Mopar guys. A 512 motor can use a 6.535 rod, a 1.32 compression height piston for zero deck at 9.980. All shelf parts. They live very well, no need to worry about where the oil ring is. The rotating assembly is very light, and combined with the lower rpm it actually stresses the block less for the same power goals.
8..603 156 mph best, 2905 lbs 549, indy 572-13, alky
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Re: 400 Stroker Build Suggestions
[Re: Cab_Burge]
#1521338
11/09/13 06:06 AM
11/09/13 06:06 AM
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Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 6,445 Missouri
68KillerBee
OP
master
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OP
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Missouri
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Do NOT go DOWN in primary tube size if you want the motor to breathe the best it can You have the 1 7/8, why would you want to go down to the 1 3/4 inch tubes
I was just saying that the 1 3/4 are interchangeable, not that I WANTED the 1 3/4. I WILL be getting the 1 7/8 . I have no problem with a "short piston". Building a motor is all new to me. I'm going to dig out the book I got my dad for xmas a few years ago by Finkbeiner (SP?). I appreciate all of the help and even the PM's I am getting from some.
Basically I gotta get the block and see how good it is and pick bore size. Then I can proceed, I just lucked into getting a set of TTI's on the cheap. I just need to swap them for ones that fit. Not trying to sound rude by any of my responses, so sorry if I am.
The only for sure thing at this point is: A) Want a STREETABLE 400 based stroker motor B)I want it to run mid 12's or faster
Pretty simple, right lol The more I think about it, the more I want to go bigger. Snow ball effect in 5 ,4 ,3, 2 .....
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Re: 400 Stroker Build Suggestions
[Re: Cab_Burge]
#1521340
11/09/13 05:51 PM
11/09/13 05:51 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,296 Chicago, IL
TonyS451
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,296
Chicago, IL
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I think your heavy B body will like the bigger cubes for sure. I'm also in the process of building a 440 stroker and I went with a 440 source rotating assembly for mine. I have built 4 street/strip strokers with their kits and they have all performed well. My current build is a pump gas 528. (I went with the bigger is better approach). It requires external oiling, but otherwise I figured the extra cubes would only be a plus. I'm going to run a mild hydraulic roller that is 244@.050 and I have a set of Edelbrock RPMs I plan to get ported or perhaps I will step up to some Indy EZ's. Not a race engine at all, but should still haul the mail in my heavy 70 Super Bee.
2 kids and a dog
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Re: 400 Stroker Build Suggestions
[Re: 68KillerBee]
#1521341
11/09/13 09:12 PM
11/09/13 09:12 PM
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Joined: May 2003
Posts: 6,545 Downtown Roebuck Ont
Twostick
Still wishing...
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Still wishing...
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 6,545
Downtown Roebuck Ont
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Quote:
Do NOT go DOWN in primary tube size if you want the motor to breathe the best it can You have the 1 7/8, why would you want to go down to the 1 3/4 inch tubes
I was just saying that the 1 3/4 are interchangeable, not that I WANTED the 1 3/4. I WILL be getting the 1 7/8 . I have no problem with a "short piston". Building a motor is all new to me. I'm going to dig out the book I got my dad for xmas a few years ago by Finkbeiner (SP?). I appreciate all of the help and even the PM's I am getting from some.
Basically I gotta get the block and see how good it is and pick bore size. Then I can proceed, I just lucked into getting a set of TTI's on the cheap. I just need to swap them for ones that fit. Not trying to sound rude by any of my responses, so sorry if I am.
The only for sure thing at this point is: A) Want a STREETABLE 400 based stroker motor B)I want it to run mid 12's or faster
Pretty simple, right lol The more I think about it, the more I want to go bigger. Snow ball effect in 5 ,4 ,3, 2 .....
If those TTI's are a 440 only fit in a B-body I would be swapping the 400 block for a 440 and all the short piston problems go away. Cheap new Tti's are hard to come by. 440 blocks not so much.
Kevin
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Re: 400 Stroker Build Suggestions
[Re: Jerry]
#1521344
11/19/13 01:03 AM
11/19/13 01:03 AM
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Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 167 mi
dirty magnum
member
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member
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 167
mi
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Quote:
as was said before build the biggest and best bottom end you can afford. you will eventually get the bug to upgrade and once the bottom end is solid you can do that easily. supercharger, done. nitrous, no problem, better heads, you betcha. we sell our girdle kits to help keep your bottom end together. since you going to at least line hone the mains, adding good caps now will save you some hassle later when you need them. our girdle kits are specially designed to keep everything in place and its the strongest out there and it works with all the stroker cranks.
girdle is a great idea
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Re: 400 Stroker Build Suggestions
[Re: Streetwize]
#1521345
11/19/13 01:07 AM
11/19/13 01:07 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 27,421 Balt. Md
383man
Too Many Posts
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Too Many Posts
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 27,421
Balt. Md
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Your goal can easily be met. My 63 ran mid 11's with just a mild 440 and iron 906 heads. It weighs 3700 lbs and you can meet your goal of low 12's without going to a stroker. Course a mild stroker should get you in the 11's with no trouble. When I built my stroker I went with the 440 block and the 4.15 crank for 493 cubes. I stayed with the RB block in case I want to put a crossram on it later. I use the aluminum Indy EZ heads because they have good potential and keep the exh ports in stock location so the headers fit good. And they dont need offset rockers as you can use any 440 standard adjustable rockers. I also use a D-dished piston to keep my comp at a pump gas 10.6. And I built .046 quench in it. I dont use a roller as I just use a solid flat tappet cam. I was just looking to get in the 10's on pump thru the full exh and it runs that with no trouble and my 493 is by no means big bad race eng as I drive it on the street all the time as far as I like. And I wanted to be able to pull in any gas station to get gas. As was said I would stay with the chevy size rod journals and you wont have to do alot of clearenceing. Good luck , Ron
Last edited by 383man; 11/19/13 01:10 AM.
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Re: 400 Stroker Build Suggestions
[Re: 68KillerBee]
#1521347
02/20/14 05:47 AM
02/20/14 05:47 AM
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Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 6,445 Missouri
68KillerBee
OP
master
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OP
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Joined: Jan 2004
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Missouri
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Just kind of a bump so I don't lose this thread. Going to go back to the shop today or tomorrow and see what is up. Last time I went, he hadn't done anything to the block though.... But I will be buying a "kit" from performance only. I bought a 68 charger r/t last month and decided it was too much of a project for me. I put it on ebay with a high reserve/buy it now price and it actually sold after 6 hours, should cover the cost of this build and then some . Still waiting for the rest of the money to be put in my account though. Trying to put together a list of other stuff I will need. Gotta get the "hemi" oil pan, springs/locks for the heads, and I'm guessing valve covers(but I'm not for sure yet). I was hoping to have it being assembled by now, but no word from the machine shop. So ya, just a bump so I can look over the thread to help me keep track of what I'm trying to do. Thanks again for all the suggestions.
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Re: 400 Stroker Build Suggestions
[Re: 68KillerBee]
#1521350
02/20/14 01:54 PM
02/20/14 01:54 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 16,917 NC
440Jim
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 16,917
NC
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Quote:
But I will be buying a "kit" from performance only.
Good choice. What stroke/CID did you decide on? What cc are the stealth heads and what CR will you have?
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Re: 400 Stroker Build Suggestions
[Re: 68KillerBee]
#1521353
02/20/14 10:38 PM
02/20/14 10:38 PM
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Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 1,284 okla.
sam64
pro stock
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pro stock
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 1,284
okla.
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Quote:
I would have to find the sheet of paper that I was taking notes on from last month. However the stealth heads are completely stock, just was going to change out the locks and springs. I missed out on someone selling some cnc ported ones for $1400 at the end of last year. Brand new they were 1100 shipped to my house, so that was a smoking deal. At this point I'm tempted to just go pick up my block and send it to performance only, don't know how much that would all cost though. Just saw someone post about Fastenal shipping stuff like this for cheap though...
Edit: o ya, I'm thinking it will be just under 500" and I probably will end up getting a different carb. Just baby steps for now though
don't be disappointed that you didn't get those 1400.00 ported stealth heads,i bought them and the seller didn't pack them for sh t so the decks got scared and the valvesprings were rusted.
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Re: 400 Stroker Build Suggestions
[Re: 68KillerBee]
#1521354
02/20/14 11:44 PM
02/20/14 11:44 PM
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Joined: May 2008
Posts: 5,399 Aurora, Colorado
451Mopar
master
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master
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 5,399
Aurora, Colorado
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I would build the 512" stroker with the 24cc dished pistons for compression in the high 9's to very low 10's for pump fuel. The engine will have so much torque, you will want the 3.55 or 3.54:1 gears. The Strange S60 is pretty well priced. I did not like the hardware they provided for the flange to brake backing plates, but that's about it. Changing axles, you will need a shorter driveshaft. I would just run the 8-3/4" until it needs replaced, then upgrade. 12's will be pretty easy to run if you get traction. A 750 cfm carb would be OK on the street, but for the strip, I would be looking for 950cfm and larger carb. 1-7/8" headers minimum. Cam selection will depend more on how quick you want to be at the strip. Use a 3-bolt timing set, even if you run a hydraulic flat tappet cam, then you can use it if you change to a roller. For a mild cam, I would use something like the Comp XR286 Solid Roller with 248/254@ 0.050" duration.
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Re: 400 Stroker Build Suggestions
[Re: 451Mopar]
#1521356
02/21/14 12:00 AM
02/21/14 12:00 AM
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Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 9,092 Rogue River, OR
Jeremiah
master
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master
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 9,092
Rogue River, OR
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Quote:
I would build the 512" stroker with the 24cc dished pistons for compression in the high 9's to very low 10's for pump fuel. The engine will have so much torque, you will want the 3.55 or 3.54:1 gears. The Strange S60 is pretty well priced. I did not like the hardware they provided for the flange to brake backing plates, but that's about it. Changing axles, you will need a shorter driveshaft. I would just run the 8-3/4" until it needs replaced, then upgrade. 12's will be pretty easy to run if you get traction. A 750 cfm carb would be OK on the street, but for the strip, I would be looking for 950cfm and larger carb. 1-7/8" headers minimum. Cam selection will depend more on how quick you want to be at the strip. Use a 3-bolt timing set, even if you run a hydraulic flat tappet cam, then you can use it if you change to a roller. For a mild cam, I would use something like the Comp XR286 Solid Roller with 248/254@ 0.050" duration.
Why high nines or low tens for pump gas? Aren't we getting away with 10.5-11.0 on 91? Or are you saying stay lower than that with due to more cranking PSI caused by a more "streetable cam" ?
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Re: 400 Stroker Build Suggestions
[Re: Jeremiah]
#1521358
02/21/14 05:05 AM
02/21/14 05:05 AM
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Joined: May 2008
Posts: 5,399 Aurora, Colorado
451Mopar
master
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master
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 5,399
Aurora, Colorado
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Quote:
Quote:
I would build the 512" stroker with the 24cc dished pistons for compression in the high 9's to very low 10's for pump fuel. The engine will have so much torque, you will want the 3.55 or 3.54:1 gears. The Strange S60 is pretty well priced. I did not like the hardware they provided for the flange to brake backing plates, but that's about it. Changing axles, you will need a shorter driveshaft. I would just run the 8-3/4" until it needs replaced, then upgrade. 12's will be pretty easy to run if you get traction. A 750 cfm carb would be OK on the street, but for the strip, I would be looking for 950cfm and larger carb. 1-7/8" headers minimum. Cam selection will depend more on how quick you want to be at the strip. Use a 3-bolt timing set, even if you run a hydraulic flat tappet cam, then you can use it if you change to a roller. For a mild cam, I would use something like the Comp XR286 Solid Roller with 248/254@ 0.050" duration.
Why high nines or low tens for pump gas? Aren't we getting away with 10.5-11.0 on 91? Or are you saying stay lower than that with due to more cranking PSI caused by a more "streetable cam" ?
For a 512" street car, 3.55:1 gear, and 4-speed, I was being conservative on compression ratio for a few reasons. One is the chambers of the RPM and Stealth heads do not have as much quench area as the small chamber heads like the Victor or B1 B/S, also the spark plug location of the Stealth has not been relocated closer to the chamber center like the other heads. They may also want to use a really mild cam less than 240 @ 0.050"?, the 512 will still have plenty of torque because of its size, the engine will be more tolerant if using lower octane fuel. The 24cc dish pistons on a 512, zero deck, 0.040" quench (head gasket) with 84cc heads is still 9.88:1 compression. The 17cc dish pistons are 10.44:1, and the flat tops with 4cc valve reliefs is 11.69:1 compression. Of course you can always get custom dish pistons for extra $$$.
I used 84cc for the head chamber size, because that is the RPM and old Stealth size. The new Stealth heads are reported to be 80cc? so that would bump the 9.88:1 compression to 10.19:1. The dynamic compression with something like the Solid roller Comp XR286R should have a dynamic compression around 7.3:1 to 7.5:1 depending on the actual compression ratio, cam installed centerline, and valve lash.
One thing of note is that the block had been milled to set the piston even with the deck so quench equals gasket thickness, If the piston is setting below the deck or using thicker gaskets, you loose much of the quench benefits.
FWIW, I have ran my 12:1 compression 500" stroker on pump premimum on the street (I use race gas at the track to be safe), but it has smaller chamber heads, a 0.714" lift roller cam (dynamic compression is only 7.45:1) , high stall converter, 4.10:1 gears (was 3.91:1), and I run a 160 thermostat, and I am at 6,000 ft altitude. A part of running high compression on pump gas is keeping the engine and incoming air cool, and having a good tune.
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Re: 400 Stroker Build Suggestions
[Re: 451Mopar]
#1521359
02/21/14 01:29 PM
02/21/14 01:29 PM
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Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972 Romeo MI
MR_P_BODY
Master
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Master
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972
Romeo MI
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For a 512" street car, 3.55:1 gear, and 4-speed, I was being conservative on compression ratio for a few reasons. One is the chambers of the RPM and Stealth heads do not have as much quench area as the small chamber heads like the Victor or B1 B/S, also the spark plug location of the Stealth has not been relocated closer to the chamber center like the other heads. They may also want to use a really mild cam less than 240 @ 0.050"?, the 512 will still have plenty of torque because of its size, the engine will be more tolerant if using lower octane fuel. The 24cc dish pistons on a 512, zero deck, 0.040" quench (head gasket) with 84cc heads is still 9.88:1 compression. The 17cc dish pistons are 10.44:1, and the flat tops with 4cc valve reliefs is 11.69:1 compression. Of course you can always get custom dish pistons for extra $$$. I used 84cc for the head chamber size, because that is the RPM and old Stealth size. The new Stealth heads are reported to be 80cc? so that would bump the 9.88:1 compression to 10.19:1. The dynamic compression with something like the Solid roller Comp XR286R should have a dynamic compression around 7.3:1 to 7.5:1 depending on the actual compression ratio, cam installed centerline, and valve lash. One thing of note is that the block had been milled to set the piston even with the deck so quench equals gasket thickness, If the piston is setting below the deck or using thicker gaskets, you loose much of the quench benefits. FWIW, I have ran my 12:1 compression 500" stroker on pump premimum on the street (I use race gas at the track to be safe), but it has smaller chamber heads, a 0.714" lift roller cam (dynamic compression is only 7.45:1) , high stall converter, 4.10:1 gears (was 3.91:1), and I run a 160 thermostat, and I am at 6,000 ft altitude. A part of running high compression on pump gas is keeping the engine and incoming air cool, and having a good tune.
Diamond Pistons allow 2 changes to the pistons before they call them custom... I had them add more dish to my set and it cost $35 extra for the set... might be $40 now ... if he goes with Dan as the builder I believe he uses Diamond quite often and can get them tweaked for minimal cost
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Re: 400 Stroker Build Suggestions
[Re: 451Mopar]
#1521360
02/21/14 01:36 PM
02/21/14 01:36 PM
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Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 9,092 Rogue River, OR
Jeremiah
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master
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 9,092
Rogue River, OR
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I would build the 512" stroker with the 24cc dished pistons for compression in the high 9's to very low 10's for pump fuel. The engine will have so much torque, you will want the 3.55 or 3.54:1 gears. The Strange S60 is pretty well priced. I did not like the hardware they provided for the flange to brake backing plates, but that's about it. Changing axles, you will need a shorter driveshaft. I would just run the 8-3/4" until it needs replaced, then upgrade. 12's will be pretty easy to run if you get traction. A 750 cfm carb would be OK on the street, but for the strip, I would be looking for 950cfm and larger carb. 1-7/8" headers minimum. Cam selection will depend more on how quick you want to be at the strip. Use a 3-bolt timing set, even if you run a hydraulic flat tappet cam, then you can use it if you change to a roller. For a mild cam, I would use something like the Comp XR286 Solid Roller with 248/254@ 0.050" duration.
Why high nines or low tens for pump gas? Aren't we getting away with 10.5-11.0 on 91? Or are you saying stay lower than that with due to more cranking PSI caused by a more "streetable cam" ?
For a 512" street car, 3.55:1 gear, and 4-speed, I was being conservative on compression ratio for a few reasons. One is the chambers of the RPM and Stealth heads do not have as much quench area as the small chamber heads like the Victor or B1 B/S, also the spark plug location of the Stealth has not been relocated closer to the chamber center like the other heads. They may also want to use a really mild cam less than 240 @ 0.050"?, the 512 will still have plenty of torque because of its size, the engine will be more tolerant if using lower octane fuel. The 24cc dish pistons on a 512, zero deck, 0.040" quench (head gasket) with 84cc heads is still 9.88:1 compression. The 17cc dish pistons are 10.44:1, and the flat tops with 4cc valve reliefs is 11.69:1 compression. Of course you can always get custom dish pistons for extra $$$.
I used 84cc for the head chamber size, because that is the RPM and old Stealth size. The new Stealth heads are reported to be 80cc? so that would bump the 9.88:1 compression to 10.19:1. The dynamic compression with something like the Solid roller Comp XR286R should have a dynamic compression around 7.3:1 to 7.5:1 depending on the actual compression ratio, cam installed centerline, and valve lash.
One thing of note is that the block had been milled to set the piston even with the deck so quench equals gasket thickness, If the piston is setting below the deck or using thicker gaskets, you loose much of the quench benefits.
FWIW, I have ran my 12:1 compression 500" stroker on pump premimum on the street (I use race gas at the track to be safe), but it has smaller chamber heads, a 0.714" lift roller cam (dynamic compression is only 7.45:1) , high stall converter, 4.10:1 gears (was 3.91:1), and I run a 160 thermostat, and I am at 6,000 ft altitude. A part of running high compression on pump gas is keeping the engine and incoming air cool, and having a good tune.
Than you sir. I appreciate you sharing that.
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Re: 400 Stroker Build Suggestions
[Re: MR_P_BODY]
#1521361
02/22/14 06:39 AM
02/22/14 06:39 AM
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Joined: May 2008
Posts: 5,399 Aurora, Colorado
451Mopar
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Joined: May 2008
Posts: 5,399
Aurora, Colorado
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Diamond Pistons allow 2 changes to the pistons before they call them custom... I had them add more dish to my set and it cost $35 extra for the set... might be $40 now ... if he goes with Dan as the builder I believe he uses Diamond quite often and can get them tweaked for minimal cost
Good info on the pistons. I thought those pistons were around $800/set, but I found a place selling them for under $700/set. I sent 68KillerBee a PM, and recommended he use one of the shops here to get a pre inspected / setup kit, and to make sure the shop checks that the crank has the correct pilot hole size for a manual trans bushing.
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Re: 400 Stroker Build Suggestions
[Re: Jeremiah]
#1521362
02/24/14 11:19 AM
02/24/14 11:19 AM
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Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 6,445 Missouri
68KillerBee
OP
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Missouri
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Thanks for all the replies. I guy has a set of these brand new for $475 or should I just keep searching for some used TTI's in 1 7/8". Not in a huge hurry for headers as I'm STILL waiting for the machine shop . Once they do their work, then I'll order up the kit from Performance Only. someday... Here's the headers I can get for $475-->> http://www.summitracing.com/parts/dte-151-c/overview/edit: Maybe I can make a road trip to Indy this weekend for the trade show to see what all is there. doubtful, unless I can find someone else to join...
Last edited by 68KillerBee; 02/24/14 11:24 AM.
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Re: 400 Stroker Build Suggestions
[Re: 68KillerBee]
#1521364
03/02/14 04:25 PM
03/02/14 04:25 PM
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Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972 Romeo MI
MR_P_BODY
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Master
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972
Romeo MI
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Alright, which pick up should I get for the oil pan. I believe this is the pan that I need to get, but don't know 1/2" or 3/8" pickup. Wish it hadn't been bad weather or I would have went up to Indy looking for headers, oil pan etc. http://chucker54.stores.yahoo.net/mabheap.html
Thanks for all the answers to my "newbie" questions.
Just get the 3/8 pick up ... you would have to redrill and tap the hole if you went 1/2" but this is a street car so you wont be reving it all that high for any length of time
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Re: 400 Stroker Build Suggestions
[Re: MR_P_BODY]
#1521365
03/02/14 09:54 PM
03/02/14 09:54 PM
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Joined: May 2008
Posts: 5,399 Aurora, Colorado
451Mopar
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Joined: May 2008
Posts: 5,399
Aurora, Colorado
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Alright, which pick up should I get for the oil pan. I believe this is the pan that I need to get, but don't know 1/2" or 3/8" pickup. Wish it hadn't been bad weather or I would have went up to Indy looking for headers, oil pan etc. http://chucker54.stores.yahoo.net/mabheap.html
Thanks for all the answers to my "newbie" questions.
Just get the 3/8 pick up ... you would have to redrill and tap the hole if you went 1/2" but this is a street car so you wont be reving it all that high for any length of time
The hemi oil pan works great with the 3/8" pickup. I have that setup on my 383 engine. T used the same oil pan on my stroked 440, but with the oiling modified for 1/2", and I had a hard time getting the correct 1/2" pickup for that setup?
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Re: 400 Stroker Build Suggestions
[Re: 451Mopar]
#1521366
03/02/14 10:14 PM
03/02/14 10:14 PM
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Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 6,445 Missouri
68KillerBee
OP
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OP
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Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 6,445
Missouri
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Quote:
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Alright, which pick up should I get for the oil pan. I believe this is the pan that I need to get, but don't know 1/2" or 3/8" pickup. Wish it hadn't been bad weather or I would have went up to Indy looking for headers, oil pan etc. http://chucker54.stores.yahoo.net/mabheap.html
Thanks for all the answers to my "newbie" questions.
Just get the 3/8 pick up ... you would have to redrill and tap the hole if you went 1/2" but this is a street car so you wont be reving it all that high for any length of time
The hemi oil pan works great with the 3/8" pickup. I have that setup on my 383 engine. T used the same oil pan on my stroked 440, but with the oiling modified for 1/2", and I had a hard time getting the correct 1/2" pickup for that setup?
Would this be basically the same oil pan? http://www.summitracing.com/parts/dcc-5007807ab/overview/
A member pm'd me and has one that he can no longer use.... Otherwise I'll put mancini's "kit" on my to buy list.
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Re: 400 Stroker Build Suggestions
[Re: 68KillerBee]
#1521367
03/02/14 10:20 PM
03/02/14 10:20 PM
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 43,007 Bend,OR USA
Cab_Burge
I Win
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I Win
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 43,007
Bend,OR USA
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Quote:
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Alright, which pick up should I get for the oil pan. I believe this is the pan that I need to get, but don't know 1/2" or 3/8" pickup. Wish it hadn't been bad weather or I would have went up to Indy looking for headers, oil pan etc. http://chucker54.stores.yahoo.net/mabheap.html
Thanks for all the answers to my "newbie" questions.
Just get the 3/8 pick up ... you would have to redrill and tap the hole if you went 1/2" but this is a street car so you wont be reving it all that high for any length of time
The hemi oil pan works great with the 3/8" pickup. I have that setup on my 383 engine. T used the same oil pan on my stroked 440, but with the oiling modified for 1/2", and I had a hard time getting the correct 1/2" pickup for that setup?
Would this be basically the same oil pan? http://www.summitracing.com/parts/dcc-5007807ab/overview/
A member pm'd me and has one that he can no longer use.... Otherwise I'll put mancini's "kit" on my to buy list.
No that is not the 6 quart 1970/71 Street Hemi/440 6 pak pan Buy the best one you can get, it is really hard to have to much oil supply available on thses motors, especially when your revving them up
Mr.Cab Racing and winning with Mopars since 1964. (Old F--t, Huh)
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Re: 400 Stroker Build Suggestions
[Re: Cab_Burge]
#1521369
03/03/14 02:49 AM
03/03/14 02:49 AM
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Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 6,445 Missouri
68KillerBee
OP
master
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Joined: Jan 2004
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Missouri
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No that is not the 6 quart 1970/71 Street Hemi/440 6 pak pan Buy the best one you can get, it is really hard to have to much oil supply available on thses motors, especially when your revving them up
That's what I thought, but was double checking.
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Re: 400 Stroker Build Suggestions
[Re: 68KillerBee]
#1521370
06/02/14 01:54 PM
06/02/14 01:54 PM
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Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 6,445 Missouri
68KillerBee
OP
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My health has been shoddy so far this year so I was in and out of the hospital. I also work overnights, so it's tough getting anything done. I was having dan from performance only build me a "stroker kit". But we all know the unfortunate circumstances that happened there. Last week I call muscle motors and i have my stroker kit being built by them right now. I have stock stealth heads on my super bee right now and they are going to go on the new motor. So after this weekend, I may take them off and send them up there for them to CNC them. If not then, I will do it over the winter. I've got pretty much everything ordered. Just need to figure out pushrods, rockers, and valve covers. I guess intake and carb too now. I have a holley 750, but that will be too small. What should I move up to? Remember this is a driver, with 3-4 trips to the drag strip a year. Also will my newish intake be useless also after all of these adjustments. It's just an Edelbrock performer rpm? Still holding out for a set of used TTI's also. I'll have to give in eventually. O and I went with MM's "400/470”: 3.91 stroke x 6.700 rod, 4.375 bore 1.320 CH piston. " kit.
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Re: 400 Stroker Build Suggestions
[Re: 68KillerBee]
#1521371
06/02/14 03:57 PM
06/02/14 03:57 PM
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Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 2,431 SK,Canada
gregsrt
top fuel
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top fuel
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 2,431
SK,Canada
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MM built the shortblock for my 400 based 512. I used crane 3/8' pushrods, crane stainless steel roller rockers, Stealth heads, they spec'd out the solid flat tappet cam, Performer RPM intake, 830 Quickfuel street series carb, Firecore dist and wires, TTi 1 7/8" headers, TTi 3" exhaust with Ultraflows. I'm still tuning it now, got the timing about right after lots of reading and searching on here, just need more jetting. Also just went to an RC9YC plugs from the RC12YC to help with the pinging etc. Seemed better last night after the changes. Spins through 1st and most of the way through second with 3.55 gears.....and a smallish tire. Stupid 66 B body wheel wells. Lol Here's a vid after the first fire http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QkwCr9yTm1I
An association of men who will not quarrel with one another is a thing which has never yet existed, from the greatest confederacy of nations down to a town meeting or a vestry.
Thomas Jefferson
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Re: 400 Stroker Build Suggestions
[Re: gregsrt]
#1521372
06/04/14 03:37 PM
06/04/14 03:37 PM
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Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 6,445 Missouri
68KillerBee
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Thanks for the info. Would a 850 be good enough for the streets or go 950? I like using Holleys, but am up for whatever. More good news on all of this is that I've got a 68 18 spline transmission that I'm buying off a board member, along with flywheel, pressure plate, clutch, etc. I just went up to Chicago yesterday to buy wheels for my challenger and I wasnt feeling great, so I headed home instead of meeting up with my friends. Had I stayed the night I woulda saw the members post and bought the stuff today. argh. My buddy is coming down on fathers day weekend and is going to pick it up for me though. The Dana I bought was thought to have 3.54's in it, but we opened it and it ends up they are 4.10's. So now I'm working on finding some one to trade me 3.73's to make it a little more street-able. I got a guy that will build me a new drive shaft. Just trying to remember all the little stuff. I have a recurved distributor, but I guess I should go with a better one (firecore)?? I already run his wires on it. Then maybe get the REV-N-NATOR also so I'll have a rev limiter. If the weather holds out this weekend I will run my car once more Friday night down the strip. (runs ~14.5's at 92-93). Then a fathers day car show.... Then rip off the heads and have Muscle Motors cnc and do their thing with the heads. Hopefully have it all back together by the Nationals (hah). Don't know if I'm going for sure or not though. Need to schedule a date to go up to the Mayo clinic this year, so might have to use my days off work for that instead of going to the nationals. Thanks again everyone for all the input so far. I'm going to read back through all of this next week when I'm off for five days and have everything set to make this huge driveline swap.
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Re: 400 Stroker Build Suggestions
[Re: David_in_St_Croi]
#1521377
10/15/14 09:04 AM
10/15/14 09:04 AM
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Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 6,445 Missouri
68KillerBee
OP
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Joined: Jan 2004
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Missouri
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I have everything up at the machine shop waiting its turn in line. Here is the cam Muscle Motors recommended for my build: http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/cam-specs/Details.aspx?csid=708&sb=2Once he starts machine work I'll take out my motor and bring him the heads. Then figure out the rocker set up I will end up with. I also scored a used set of TTI's and installed them already. They cut down my ET slightly and also brought up my mph. Going from a car that runs mid 14's to this stroker set up is going to be interesting.
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Re: 400 Stroker Build Suggestions
[Re: 68KillerBee]
#1521379
12/08/14 03:02 PM
12/08/14 03:02 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 16,376
dogdays
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 16,376
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Holley owns Quick Fuel Technologies and BG Fuel Systems (Demon). Except for the Street Demon, all of the four-barrel carbs being sold by the three companies are based on the same Holley design. If you can work on a Holley you can work on the other two.
As far as rockers go, stockers are light and cheap. There have been many many bigblocks built with the .509 lift cam and stock rockers. Your suggested cam is in that ballpark for lift and that's where I'd go. Most cheap aluminum rockers are cheap and don't work well or for long. You may want to find AndyF's article on bigblock rockers, seems like some of them don't fit too well. Many have had good luck with Harland Sharps, I believe Hughes sells the plain bearing set. Otherwise I'd stick to known brands.
R.
Last edited by dogdays; 12/08/14 03:12 PM.
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Re: 400 Stroker Build Suggestions
[Re: 68KillerBee]
#1521381
02/14/15 10:06 AM
02/14/15 10:06 AM
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Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 6,445 Missouri
68KillerBee
OP
master
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OP
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Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 6,445
Missouri
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Small update, new 400 block was given to the machine shop to check out. Have not heard back yet from them. I ordered my strange dana 60 from dr. diff and my dad picked it up while I was stuck at the hospital. Went with 3.54's since it will have enough power that I don't need 3.73's really. Now I'm trying to figure out what skid plate I need to buy for the oil pan I bought( http://www.manciniracing.com/mabheap.html ). I imagine I should get the 1966-1969 hemi one even though that pan is technically for 70-71 ebodys: http://www.manciniracing.com/kskpl.htmlI am about to order the Carter Mechanical Strip Super fuel pump, ARP bolt kit, and hotchkis subframe connectors from Summit Racing. After that I just will need my heads done. Had a question on those too though : https://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/show...e=4#Post8419233I know when I send them off to get CNC (probably next winter) they will have to go to 10* locks/retainers. Someone on that thread said I should be fine with what I have and a flat tappet cam.... Again my health has put me behind but I'm still chugging away at this. Have been in the hospital 3-4 weeks since the end of December . But new treatment option might turn things around.
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Re: 400 Stroker Build Suggestions
[Re: 68KillerBee]
#1521382
02/14/15 11:33 AM
02/14/15 11:33 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,963 Frostbitefalls MN (Rocky&Bullw...
gregsdart
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,963
Frostbitefalls MN (Rocky&Bullw...
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Devin, best wishes on the health deal. Not fun. On the rockers, it would be well worth checking into the use of a 1.6 rocker for a couple of reasons. First, stock rockers don't deliver a full 1.5 lift, and although a lot of guys have used them successfully, since you have to buy rockers, you might as well step up to some good ones, adjust them once, and be done. Then you won't have to worry about having one fail. The extra lift of a 1.6 rocker will help in the Hp department, and the rpm range for your build will be very low, so not much worry about problems there.
8..603 156 mph best, 2905 lbs 549, indy 572-13, alky
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Re: 400 Stroker Build in Progress
[Re: gregsdart]
#1521383
02/16/15 04:12 PM
02/16/15 04:12 PM
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Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 6,445 Missouri
68KillerBee
OP
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OP
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Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 6,445
Missouri
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Quote:
Devin, best wishes on the health deal. Not fun. On the rockers, it would be well worth checking into the use of a 1.6 rocker for a couple of reasons. First, stock rockers don't deliver a full 1.5 lift, and although a lot of guys have used them successfully, since you have to buy rockers, you might as well step up to some good ones, adjust them once, and be done. Then you won't have to worry about having one fail. The extra lift of a 1.6 rocker will help in the Hp department, and the rpm range for your build will be very low, so not much worry about problems there.
I suppose I could add those on when I get them cnc'd next winter. Everyone is saying the stockers will work right now. On another thread I have, a guy states that the 7* locks are good enough. But will be going to 10's on that.
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Re: 400 Stroker Build in Progress
[Re: 68KillerBee]
#1908360
09/07/15 11:19 PM
09/07/15 11:19 PM
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Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 6,445 Missouri
68KillerBee
OP
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OP
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Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 6,445
Missouri
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Well I have the motor back and painted up. Just need to take the old one out and put the new one in. Got the Brad Penn oil and my wix oil filter for break in. Specs on everything and some random stuff: 470" Stroker kit from muscle motors CNC ported stealth heads from MCH (numbers below) Cam: xe274h-10 Xtreme Energy XE274H Hydraulic Flat Tappet Camshaft & Lifter Kit Lift: .488''/.491'' Duration: 274°/286° Stock stamped rockers (will upgrade in the future, but will work fine with the cam I have) Edelbrock Performer RPM 750 holley carb (figured an intake and carb will be easier to replace than taking the heads off again so I spent the money on that. May go EFI) Carter Strip Super mechanical fuel pump ProSport SFI Harmonic Balancer Cometic head gasket .051 thickness Can't recall what the compression ratio should be Hemi 4 speed Centerforce clutch TTI 3 inch headers Strange 60 w/ 3.54 gears 295-50-15's I know the rockers and intake/carb set up are holding me back now. What should I put in the 750 for now as far as jets and what not? I have a full jet kit, just don't know what a good estimate would be to throw in. What kind of spark plug does everyone like? As money allows, I will upgrade those things. My new k frame, pulleys, fan just got done getting powdercoated so I'll pick them up tomorrow. Ordered a new steering gear box that should be here in a couple weeks from Firm Feel. Resealed the hemi 4 speed I bought off of here and it looked good inside. Still need to check if I need to mess with the bellhousing alignment, but have a Browell tool for that so it should be easy. Will still need to put in the strange 60 and get a driveshaft made through Dr. Diff once I get the measurements (unless someone knows what a 68 b body with a hemi 4 speed and strange 60 dana length will need to be).
Last edited by 68KillerBee; 09/07/15 11:31 PM.
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Re: 400 Stroker Build in Progress
[Re: 68KillerBee]
#1908476
09/08/15 04:12 AM
09/08/15 04:12 AM
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 43,007 Bend,OR USA
Cab_Burge
I Win
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I Win
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 43,007
Bend,OR USA
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The flow numbers on those heads are encouraging They outflowed the CNC ported Eddy RPM Jeff at MCH did for me back when I have a customer who bought a set of those heads two years ago, I'm building him 511 C.I. pump gas stroker motor now and it will need a decent set of heads like that(his aren't ported, yet) to make the power he wants Thanks for posting your update
Last edited by Cab_Burge; 09/08/15 04:13 AM.
Mr.Cab Racing and winning with Mopars since 1964. (Old F--t, Huh)
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Re: 400 Stroker Build Suggestions
[Re: 68KillerBee]
#2079799
05/25/16 03:57 AM
05/25/16 03:57 AM
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Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 6,445 Missouri
68KillerBee
OP
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Missouri
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I listened to your wise advise after getting my linkage straightened out. While working on it the UPS guy dropped off something and I set it down in front of my car. Well that box took a mile long trip with me and the car. I kept hearing a noise that was scaring me, but I figured out that it was just that box haha. Later gave my gf's oldest son a ride that I promised him after he "helped" install the motor a few months ago. He told her I was the fastest driver in the world lol (I maybe got up to 35 mph). Once the sun went down I ran around a bit more, but need to put my hood back on still. My old motor sounded good with my cutouts opened, but this motor is on a whole nother level. While swapping it rearends I needed to change brake lines. Well the rear brake fluid in the master cylinder was nasty! So I cleaned it out and gravity bled them. Now the brakes work better than before. Next on the list to buy is disc brakes, rockers and maybe cam someday. But I sign into Moparts today and a member listed a SSBC disc brake setup for $250, so they're on their way up to me. There is a huge get together Friday night near me that has a dyno, so might see what it does.
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Re: 400 Stroker Build Suggestions
[Re: 68KillerBee]
#2086844
06/06/16 06:15 AM
06/06/16 06:15 AM
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Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 6,445 Missouri
68KillerBee
OP
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OP
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Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 6,445
Missouri
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May not get much response in this thread, but I'll try it first anyway. Break in went fine, got my linkage set up correctly on the 4 speed and put probably 100 miles on it. No problems to speak of until I went to take it to a cruise night. Heard a knock, and had a fuel leak at the pump. Fixed the leak but now I have to figure out the knock issue. It isn't really loud, sounds a little louder than an exhaust leak. Tomorrow I'll try to figure out where it's coming from. Hoping it's something simple, obviously. I had an issue with the bottom pulley bolt holes not lining up with the dampener, so going to make sure that isn't the issue as the whole pulley system looks a little "wobbly". Then I'll take off valve covers. I've read people say that moly disulfide from cam break in can sometimes cause a knock. After breakin, I changed filter and added back a quart of break in oil. So I was thinking maybe change over to my regular brad penn oil. When looking at dipstick, the oil has a very faint white-ish look to it. Seems like I should just rip it apart- valve covers, intake, maybe oil pan if the first two things show nothing. Tough to decide with so many opinions on certain break in procedures, stories of comp cam issues, or comp cams saying you may hear the "dull sewing machine sound", etc. I don't want to drive it, thinking that's just how it should sound and then end up really messing it up. Sorry for the long post, just frustrated as it seemed to be doing just fine- even when I parked it last.
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Re: 400 Stroker Build UPDATE
[Re: 68KillerBee]
#2196764
11/15/16 02:18 PM
11/15/16 02:18 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 14,479 So. Burlington, Vt.
fast68plymouth
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 14,479
So. Burlington, Vt.
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I had to read back a bit to see what you ended up with for a combo.
You are obviously experiencing some "new combo blues". One you get it sorted out it should go(at least) 8-10mph better. ET's are much more dependant on how well you can get the car to leave. "Street" cars with a std trans and mild gearing don't usually 60' nearly as well as a comparable auto, but mid-low 12's should be no problem.
68 Satellite, 383 with stock 906’s, 3550lbs, 11.18@123 Dealer for Comp Cams/Indy Heads
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Re: 400 Stroker Build UPDATE
[Re: 68KillerBee]
#2196902
11/15/16 06:29 PM
11/15/16 06:29 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 14,479 So. Burlington, Vt.
fast68plymouth
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 14,479
So. Burlington, Vt.
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I agree. A set of 26x8 slicks would be pretty high on my list.
It's hard to get good data to sort the car out if half the runs are plagued with tire frying launches. With the slicks you have a much better chance of making sure each trip down the track provides both better ET's and useful info.
68 Satellite, 383 with stock 906’s, 3550lbs, 11.18@123 Dealer for Comp Cams/Indy Heads
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Re: 400 Stroker Build UPDATE
[Re: 68KillerBee]
#2197235
11/16/16 05:00 AM
11/16/16 05:00 AM
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Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 6,445 Missouri
68KillerBee
OP
master
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OP
master
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 6,445
Missouri
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Thanks, I put on some 275 60 15 Nitto drag radials. But obviously that isn't going to help if I do too short or too long of a burnout, crappy track prep, crappy driver mod , etc. I know, my car is heading on the right path so I'm feeling better than a few months ago. More than anything I drive the car, but still want to have some fun at the track here and there. As long as the clutch holds, everything else should easily hold up to any power I currently have. Just figured I would update this thread all the way and now I'll let it die. It's been a big learning curve and I'm still trying to figure it all out. I don't expect the efi to make me faster or anything, just more efficient and hopefully easier to hop in and start up year round. I'm about tapped out on spending money on this for now, but hope for a few upgrades down the line. Thanks again to everyone.
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