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1. Set a performance goal
2. Find a shop that does precision machine work
3. Have any kits that you do buy checked
4. Work with a pro when selecting your cam. Someone that is familiar with mopars.
5. Keep compression 9.5-10 with cast iron 10-10.5 aluminum heads
6. Keep quench around .040

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I want to run mid to low 12's. I will likely have to switch up gear ratio and tire size though??
I have a good machine shop to double check whatever I end up getting, along with doing my machine work.

The cam is another thing that I need to know about.

Thanks

I went to performance only website and there is pretty much nothing on there. I need to be able to read all the info on what all is in the kits.

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So I'm planning on doing a stroker motor for my super bee over the winter.
Here are the for sure things: Stealth heads, 383 rpm intake and holley 750.
Should I go with the Muscle Motors or 440source kits? I have a line on a 1973 400 block (have to see if it's ever been bored out though).
My car has manual steering/brakes and a 4 speed with 3.55's in the rearend right now. 295/50-15's are the rear tire size. Down the line (next year) I will get an 18 spline hemi box and a dana(with probably the same gear ratio ~3.54).
I drive my car a lot and have only taken it to the strip a few times (best run of only a 14.5 w/ my low compression motor). Must have decent street manors and get at least 20 mpg (jk about the mpgs ) It has stock hp manifolds on it, but I will probably get rid of those in favor of some headers.

The prices on the two kits are comparable, obviously a lot of people talk down on the 440source stuff but it is what it is. I mounted my heads on right out of the box and had no problems with it. Muscle motors search on here shows mixed opinions.
This is my first performance engine build so any input is welcome!
thanks
-devin

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I'm sure there are more than one C.I. strokers kits avaible for the low deck 400 blocks, 452 C.I., 470 C.I., 496 and 505 to 512 C.I. depending on the bore and stroker sizes on all of them , how big do you want to go to now? I like the 4.25 stroke kits n the 400 blocks . I have built and driven several of them(4.25 stroke 400 blocks, 505 to 512 C.I.) in the last ten years, the increase in C.I. from a 383 to a 451 should amaze you , the 512 will absolutely shock the beejesues out of you On the four speed car I would buy another set of wheels that match the current ones you have on the rear and put a god set of bias ply street legal DOT drag tires on them for the days you want to be shoved way back in the seat when you nail the throttle to the floor instead of going sideways in a cloud of smoke from the radials I've had both types of the same tires on my 727 automatic Duster with a pump gas 512 low deck, it would flat boil the 315x60x15 M/T ET Street radials on the street, not so on the same size(13.50x30x15) ET Street Bias ply tires The radials where faster on a good track, not so on the streets I drive on around here. The bias plys might spin a 1/4 to 2 full turns on the hit and then hook and stay hooked, the radials would not recover once they started to spin in any gear, I would have to let off to keep from going sidewasy into the other lane with the radials on the back The four speed will be much worst on the street than my 727 was

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Pplease consider adding Dan Costello Moparts member Performance Only to your list of potential stroker kit suppliers

Quality and service SECOND TO NONE

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I went to performance only website and there is pretty much nothing on there. I need to be able to read all the info on what all is in the kits.

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Humans are visual creatures but this is one of those cases where you are better off CALLING Dan , telling him what you want to do and what your goals are , Dan will ask you a few questions and tell you exactly what you need without trying to sell you something you don't need.

I prefer to SPEAK to people instead of just blindly ordering something online , that way you get EXACTLY what you want/need instead of wasting your time, and money, getting the wrong part ... or worse having to send parts back ON YOUR DIME WHEN THE PARTS ARE OBVIOUSLY SUB STANDARD ....

was that internet crap enough

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I want to run mid to low 12's. I will likely have to switch up gear ratio and tire size though??

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I went to performance only website and there is pretty much nothing on there. I need to be able to read all the info on what all is in the kits.

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Humans are visual creatures but this is one of those cases where you are better off CALLING Dan , telling him what you want to do and what your goals are , Dan will ask you a few questions and tell you exactly what you need without trying to sell you something you don't need.

I prefer to SPEAK to people instead of just blindly ordering something online , that way you get EXACTLY what you want/need instead of wasting your time, and money, getting the wrong part ... or worse having to send parts back ON YOUR DIME WHEN THE PARTS ARE OBVIOUSLY SUB STANDARD ....

was that internet crap enough

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I went to performance only website and there is pretty much nothing on there. I need to be able to read all the info on what all is in the kits.

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Humans are visual creatures but this is one of those cases where you are better off CALLING Dan , telling him what you want to do and what your goals are , Dan will ask you a few questions and tell you exactly what you need without trying to sell you something you don't need.

I prefer to SPEAK to people instead of just blindly ordering something online , that way you get EXACTLY what you want/need instead of wasting your time, and money, getting the wrong part ... or worse having to send parts back ON YOUR DIME WHEN THE PARTS ARE OBVIOUSLY SUB STANDARD ....

was that internet crap enough

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John, As you know, anybody can ship out boxed up parts and reap the rewards without any personal liability for said parts. If there's a problem it goes back to the manufacturer, and for the most part people will end up paying the freight and often times the repair costs.
Where we try to excel is by selling complete kits that are thoroughly checked out to make sure there's no problems, we balance the assembly and set the rod bearing clearances, provide torque specs for the rods. (we disassemble clean, cycle the bolts and then stretch the bolt to proper length and note the torque needed) and verify the actual bearing clearances for the intended application.
Obviously we charge more for all the extra work, but when you buy one of our kits the only clearances you need to check are the main bearings. all the other work is done for you.
We've sold a lot of kits to Moparts members and the fact that I haven't heard a single bad word about our kits is something I'm proud of.
Many people shop by lowest price alone and I fully understand that. If lowest price is what you need, so be it, but if you want a true no hassle rotating assembly, that's where we shine.

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I'll try to call you up this week. My problem with not being able to see/read what I'm getting is I work nights and sleep all day. So I can't really call because everything is closed. Except every three weeks I get 5 days off in a row and that would be this current week.
Thanks everyone else for all the comments. I guess once I pick everything else out I will ask about cam selection (509 was one suggestion on here so far).

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I went to performance only website and there is pretty much nothing on there. I need to be able to read all the info on what all is in the kits.

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Humans are visual creatures but this is one of those cases where you are better off CALLING Dan , telling him what you want to do and what your goals are , Dan will ask you a few questions and tell you exactly what you need without trying to sell you something you don't need.

I prefer to SPEAK to people instead of just blindly ordering something online , that way you get EXACTLY what you want/need instead of wasting your time, and money, getting the wrong part ... or worse having to send parts back ON YOUR DIME WHEN THE PARTS ARE OBVIOUSLY SUB STANDARD ....

was that internet crap enough

---

John, As you know, anybody can ship out boxed up parts and reap the rewards without any personal liability for said parts. If there's a problem it goes back to the manufacturer, and for the most part people will end up paying the freight and often times the repair costs.
Where we try to excel is by selling complete kits that are thoroughly checked out to make sure there's no problems, we balance the assembly and set the rod bearing clearances, provide torque specs for the rods. (we disassemble clean, cycle the bolts and then stretch the bolt to proper length and note the torque needed) and verify the actual bearing clearances for the intended application.
Obviously we charge more for all the extra work, but when you buy one of our kits the only clearances you need to check are the main bearings. all the other work is done for you.
We've sold a lot of kits to Moparts members and the fact that I haven't heard a single bad word about our kits is something I'm proud of.
Many people shop by lowest price alone and I fully understand that. If lowest price is what you need, so be it, but if you want a true no hassle rotating assembly, that's where we shine.

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I'll try to call you up this week. My problem with not being able to see/read what I'm getting is I work nights and sleep all day. So I can't really call because everything is closed. Except every three weeks I get 5 days off in a row and that would be this current week.
Thanks everyone else for all the comments. I guess once I pick everything else out I will ask about cam selection (509 was one suggestion on here so far).

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I don't know if I would recommend that cam or not but it did make the number .

Kevin