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Re: 400 Stroker Build Suggestions
[Re: 68KillerBee]
#1521335
11/08/13 06:42 PM
11/08/13 06:42 PM
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 43,123
Bend,OR USA
Cab_Burge
I Win
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I Win
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 43,123
Bend,OR USA
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Quote:
Quote:
If you can use a shelf piston have it bored to 4.375 , assuming it sonic checks ok , that is a standard oversize for 400 based strokers.
Assuming this hasn't been said.
Bore .035 over, got it.
Thanks!
Looks like the 1 7/8's headers I have are specific for 383 or 440. The 1 3/4's are interchangeable, dang. Waiting for a call back from TTI. Looks like I gotta find someone to swap these with.
Do NOT go DOWN in primary tube size if you want the motor to breathe the best it can  You have the 1 7/8, why would you want to go down to the 1 3/4 inch tubes 
Mr.Cab Racing and winning with Mopars since 1964. (Old F--t, Huh)
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Re: 400 Stroker Build Suggestions
[Re: dogdays]
#1521337
11/08/13 07:59 PM
11/08/13 07:59 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,985
Frostbitefalls MN (Rocky&Bullw...
gregsdart
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,985
Frostbitefalls MN (Rocky&Bullw...
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If you have concerns about too short of a piston, look at what a factory 454 chevy runs! The pistons look like hockey pucks to us Mopar guys.
A 512 motor can use a 6.535 rod, a 1.32 compression height piston for zero deck at 9.980. All shelf parts. They live very well, no need to worry about where the oil ring is. The rotating assembly is very light, and combined with the lower rpm it actually stresses the block less for the same power goals.
8..603 156 mph best, 2905 lbs 549, indy 572-13, alky
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Re: 400 Stroker Build Suggestions
[Re: Cab_Burge]
#1521338
11/09/13 06:06 AM
11/09/13 06:06 AM
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Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 6,445
Missouri
68KillerBee
OP
master
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OP
master
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 6,445
Missouri
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Do NOT go DOWN in primary tube size if you want the motor to breathe the best it can You have the 1 7/8, why would you want to go down to the 1 3/4 inch tubes
I was just saying that the 1 3/4 are interchangeable, not that I WANTED the 1 3/4. I WILL be getting the 1 7/8  .
I have no problem with a "short piston". Building a motor is all new to me. I'm going to dig out the book I got my dad for xmas a few years ago by Finkbeiner (SP?). I appreciate all of the help and even the PM's I am getting from some.
Basically I gotta get the block and see how good it is and pick bore size. Then I can proceed, I just lucked into getting a set of TTI's on the cheap. I just need to swap them for ones that fit.  Not trying to sound rude by any of my responses, so sorry if I am.
The only for sure thing at this point is:
A) Want a STREETABLE 400 based stroker motor
B)I want it to run mid 12's or faster
Pretty simple, right lol
The more I think about it, the more I want to go bigger. Snow ball effect in 5 ,4 ,3, 2 .....
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Re: 400 Stroker Build Suggestions
[Re: Cab_Burge]
#1521340
11/09/13 05:51 PM
11/09/13 05:51 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,296
Chicago, IL
TonyS451
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,296
Chicago, IL
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I think your heavy B body will like the bigger cubes for sure. I'm also in the process of building a 440 stroker and I went with a 440 source rotating assembly for mine. I have built 4 street/strip strokers with their kits and they have all performed well. My current build is a pump gas 528. (I went with the bigger is better approach). It requires external oiling, but otherwise I figured the extra cubes would only be a plus. I'm going to run a mild hydraulic roller that is 244@.050 and I have a set of Edelbrock RPMs I plan to get ported or perhaps I will step up to some Indy EZ's. Not a race engine at all, but should still haul the mail in my heavy 70 Super Bee.
2 kids and a dog
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Re: 400 Stroker Build Suggestions
[Re: 68KillerBee]
#1521341
11/09/13 09:12 PM
11/09/13 09:12 PM
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Joined: May 2003
Posts: 6,560
Downtown Roebuck Ont
Twostick
Still wishing...
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Still wishing...
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 6,560
Downtown Roebuck Ont
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Quote:
Do NOT go DOWN in primary tube size if you want the motor to breathe the best it can You have the 1 7/8, why would you want to go down to the 1 3/4 inch tubes
I was just saying that the 1 3/4 are interchangeable, not that I WANTED the 1 3/4. I WILL be getting the 1 7/8 .
I have no problem with a "short piston". Building a motor is all new to me. I'm going to dig out the book I got my dad for xmas a few years ago by Finkbeiner (SP?). I appreciate all of the help and even the PM's I am getting from some.
Basically I gotta get the block and see how good it is and pick bore size. Then I can proceed, I just lucked into getting a set of TTI's on the cheap. I just need to swap them for ones that fit. Not trying to sound rude by any of my responses, so sorry if I am.
The only for sure thing at this point is:
A) Want a STREETABLE 400 based stroker motor
B)I want it to run mid 12's or faster
Pretty simple, right lol
The more I think about it, the more I want to go bigger. Snow ball effect in 5 ,4 ,3, 2 .....
If those TTI's are a 440 only fit in a B-body I would be swapping the 400 block for a 440 and all the short piston problems go away. Cheap new Tti's are hard to come by. 440 blocks not so much.
Kevin
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Re: 400 Stroker Build Suggestions
[Re: Jerry]
#1521344
11/19/13 01:03 AM
11/19/13 01:03 AM
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Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 167
mi
dirty magnum
member
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member
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 167
mi
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Quote:
as was said before build the biggest and best bottom end you can afford. you will eventually get the bug to upgrade and once the bottom end is solid you can do that easily. supercharger, done. nitrous, no problem, better heads, you betcha. we sell our girdle kits to help keep your bottom end together. since you going to at least line hone the mains, adding good caps now will save you some hassle later when you need them. our girdle kits are specially designed to keep everything in place and its the strongest out there and it works with all the stroker cranks.
girdle is a great idea
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Re: 400 Stroker Build Suggestions
[Re: Streetwize]
#1521345
11/19/13 01:07 AM
11/19/13 01:07 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 27,421
Balt. Md
383man
Too Many Posts
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Too Many Posts
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 27,421
Balt. Md
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Your goal can easily be met. My 63 ran mid 11's with just a mild 440 and iron 906 heads. It weighs 3700 lbs and you can meet your goal of low 12's without going to a stroker. Course a mild stroker should get you in the 11's with no trouble. When I built my stroker I went with the 440 block and the 4.15 crank for 493 cubes. I stayed with the RB block in case I want to put a crossram on it later. I use the aluminum Indy EZ heads because they have good potential and keep the exh ports in stock location so the headers fit good. And they dont need offset rockers as you can use any 440 standard adjustable rockers. I also use a D-dished piston to keep my comp at a pump gas 10.6. And I built .046 quench in it. I dont use a roller as I just use a solid flat tappet cam. I was just looking to get in the 10's on pump thru the full exh and it runs that with no trouble and my 493 is by no means big bad race eng as I drive it on the street all the time as far as I like. And I wanted to be able to pull in any gas station to get gas. As was said I would stay with the chevy size rod journals and you wont have to do alot of clearenceing. Good luck , Ron
Last edited by 383man; 11/19/13 01:10 AM.
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Re: 400 Stroker Build Suggestions
[Re: 68KillerBee]
#1521347
02/20/14 05:47 AM
02/20/14 05:47 AM
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Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 6,445
Missouri
68KillerBee
OP
master
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OP
master
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 6,445
Missouri
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Just kind of a bump so I don't lose this thread. Going to go back to the shop today or tomorrow and see what is up. Last time I went, he hadn't done anything to the block though.... But I will be buying a "kit" from performance only. I bought a 68 charger r/t last month and decided it was too much of a project for me. I put it on ebay with a high reserve/buy it now price and it actually sold after 6 hours, should cover the cost of this build and then some  . Still waiting for the rest of the money to be put in my account though. Trying to put together a list of other stuff I will need. Gotta get the "hemi" oil pan, springs/locks for the heads, and I'm guessing valve covers(but I'm not for sure yet). I was hoping to have it being assembled by now, but no word from the machine shop. So ya, just a bump so I can look over the thread to help me keep track of what I'm trying to do. Thanks again for all the suggestions.
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Re: 400 Stroker Build Suggestions
[Re: 68KillerBee]
#1521350
02/20/14 01:54 PM
02/20/14 01:54 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 16,923
NC
440Jim
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 16,923
NC
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Quote:
But I will be buying a "kit" from performance only.
Good choice.
What stroke/CID did you decide on?
What cc are the stealth heads and what CR will you have?
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Re: 400 Stroker Build Suggestions
[Re: 68KillerBee]
#1521353
02/20/14 10:38 PM
02/20/14 10:38 PM
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Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 1,285
okla.
sam64
pro stock
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pro stock
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 1,285
okla.
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Quote:
I would have to find the sheet of paper that I was taking notes on from last month. However the stealth heads are completely stock, just was going to change out the locks and springs. I missed out on someone selling some cnc ported ones for $1400 at the end of last year. Brand new they were 1100 shipped to my house, so that was a smoking deal.
At this point I'm tempted to just go pick up my block and send it to performance only, don't know how much that would all cost though. Just saw someone post about Fastenal shipping stuff like this for cheap though... 
Edit: o ya, I'm thinking it will be just under 500" and I probably will end up getting a different carb. Just baby steps for now though 
don't be disappointed that you didn't get those 1400.00 ported stealth heads,i bought them and the seller didn't pack them for sh t so the decks got scared and the valvesprings were rusted.
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Re: 400 Stroker Build Suggestions
[Re: 68KillerBee]
#1521354
02/20/14 11:44 PM
02/20/14 11:44 PM
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Joined: May 2008
Posts: 5,399
Aurora, Colorado
451Mopar
master
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master
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 5,399
Aurora, Colorado
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I would build the 512" stroker with the 24cc dished pistons for compression in the high 9's to very low 10's for pump fuel. The engine will have so much torque, you will want the 3.55 or 3.54:1 gears. The Strange S60 is pretty well priced. I did not like the hardware they provided for the flange to brake backing plates, but that's about it. Changing axles, you will need a shorter driveshaft.
I would just run the 8-3/4" until it needs replaced, then upgrade.
12's will be pretty easy to run if you get traction. A 750 cfm carb would be OK on the street, but for the strip, I would be looking for 950cfm and larger carb. 1-7/8" headers minimum.
Cam selection will depend more on how quick you want to be at the strip. Use a 3-bolt timing set, even if you run a hydraulic flat tappet cam, then you can use it if you change to a roller. For a mild cam, I would use something like the Comp XR286 Solid Roller with 248/254@ 0.050" duration.
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And I think a 750 carbs a bit small myself but that`s just me............... 
