As far as you can tell it was rebuilt with a stock cam?. I'd think it should idle at less than 800 plus not stall when the initial is backed down to 15. Vac leak maybe? something still ain't right & I'm not sure if it is inside or outside the carb. Any possibility the cam phasing is off

Motor was rebuilt back in 05. I contacted the shop, but they couldn't help me as they only kept records for 5 years. It sounds stock, nice rumble but no lope, just smooth idle. No aftermarket items except performer intake, and 1405 edelbrock carb, and Pertronix Flamethrower 3. I did change the timming chain (CompCams) as the old chain had stretched, installed straight up. The stalling problem was before the installation of these parts.
Funny thing, when I first got the car it ran fine, a little sluggish, but it didn't stall, but it was running a points dist. with a vac, advance that didn't work. then it went downhill from there. It runs better with the Pertronix, but thats not saying much...checked for vaccum leaks after intake installed, but none found...

To clarify, at one time it ran OK (but a bit sluggish) then it deteriorated with no part changes? & after the part changes it ran a bit better but still had an issue? Were all of the part changes done at the same time (including the dist) & when it first went bad was it all of a sudden or gradually?

Thy Edelbrock carbs are jetted fairly lean. Try going up 1-2 sizes larger on the primary jets and see if the stalling & hesitation go away.

It was a gradual deterioration. I replaced the carb,after replacing everything from the gas tank to the carb, then distributor,wires, plugs, then timming chain, and intake in that order.I was trying to eliminate problems and change suspect old parts. The Pertronix was put in place of the points distributor, that had a defective vac advance. Timming chain was replaced when I dicovered the timming was jumping back and forth. I decided to change the intake at the same time, since the front end was apart, and take a little weight off the front. I had thought at one time I might have internal issues, possible burnt valves or sticky valves, not sure. It has been about 25 yrs since my last Mopar (681/2 Super Bee) but man this car has me stumped....I like to tinker but this is really driving me crazy because the car is top shape otherwise.....case of the beautiful car that doesn't run well, and hard to get help here cause Hawaii is 90% Chevy muscle which is fine, I traded my 69 427 Vette for this car. I know it will get resolved, thanks to everybody for their advice.

I keep thinking vac leak & most of the time the valley pans seal well & sometimes they dont. I'd take the clusters out & blast the brass tubes with the holes along the length of the tubes etc with brake kleen and also the recess where the clusters sit plus blast the idle mix screw ports on the chance that it is the carb idle circuit. Might block the metering rods up so you are on the power circuit (tho I ain't sure how much the power circuit is working at idle on eddies) and open up the idle mix screws all in an attempt to richen it & compensate for a vac leak if that is indeed the issue & take it out for a spin & see how it acts. We gotta get this before you trade back for the vette

I'm thinking its not a vaccum leak, because it was stalling with the original manifold on, did a lot of testing to find leaks pretty sure its not that, and i did shoot the clusters the other day when I adjusted the floats,blew out the mixture ports also, but will richen the mixtures to see how it runs.....will work on it tommorow and see what happens...

Does the car have power brakes?

No power brakes....A/C, power steering....when the A/C is turned on, thats guarateed the car will stall when slowing down to a stop. Amp gauge goes negative when stalling happens.

I am thinking timing,I would check stock harmonic dampener for slipped outer ring. If ok.
I would still add some INITIAL timing up to 15, tune distributor curve for 35 degrees at 3000 rpm, add as much vacuum timing as it will tolerate for cruise. Then start chasing carb issues if any.
In my experiences when carb acts finicky at idle tune distributor for best vacuum, adjust carb for best idle.
One other thought, I have seen multiple edelbrock timing chains installed incorrectly due to vague 0 degree timing marks on lower gear. If you didn't use one of these sets no worries.

Changed jets today, 104 from 100, same rods, about two steps richer.
let engine warm up, set timming to 13 btdc 750 rpm. Blip throttle a few times to 3000rpm, seemed ok, turn a/c on blip throttle again, as rpms drop goes negative 750rpm, down to almost stalling then comes back up to 750. Blip again, rpms drop to stall. Start up again same procedure, rpms drop, and again almost stall engine, but goes back to 750. As rpms drop close to stalling, amp meter reads negative. Rpm drops to 680-670 in drive and reverse. When a/c is off, tendency of stalling seems to be less, but as car runs longer, tendecy to stall goes up, a/c on or off.

Took the RR out for a run, stopped at a friends house close by, he was thinking maybe the A/C compressor might be causing the stalling, by putting too much drag on the engine....too much pressure or something like that...it stalled again at his house as soon as I turned the a/c on and blipped the throttle...is there some test to check the compressor for drag on the engine or running too much pressure...

To all who helped me with suggestions up to October 28, I kept working on the car, and what I finally figured out was that the gas
I was using, 10% ethanol mix, was giving me the stalling problems. I couldn't believe that made all the difference. I did change the carb to a Edel 650 AVS, from a 1405, and I went back to my original points set up, but I have to say the RR purrs now.....so, it was the ethanol fuel blend that made the car run like crap.
Thanks for all the help....