on my small block aluminum 90 degree oil filter adapter,there is a threaded nipple(the oil filter screws onto it),this nipple screws into the aluminum adapter. it has a square opening in the center, allen wrench? 3/8s extension? what goes into that to tighten it down? is there a gasket between it and the aluminum adapter? how tight? anything needed to go on steel nipple thread going into aluminum?

loctite on brake kleened threads. grind down a cheap HF extension. no gasket

thanks, just was in process of doing my "break in" oil change and pulled off filter....and felt the nipple was loose....loctited and installed now!

I've generally found Robert's advice to be sound and based on actual experience. I do know of a couple of relatively simple and no cost modifications that you may want to consider at your next oil change. First just having to use the 90* adapter adds some more restrictions to the lube system. If you remove the adapter you will see some pretty tight turns that some porting can help with. Next there are some nipples that don't have the internal square drive hole, but are round inside and nearly 1/2 in. in diameter. They use a hex on the outer flange. If you can't find one it is a relatively simple matter to drill out the square drive [ do it in stages ] to 1/2 in. Then simply grind a hex on the flange so you can use a socket. 13/16 works pretty well. There are plenty of internal drive nipples around since that's what holds the filter plate on small blocks without an adapter. That way if you screw one up replacing it isn't a problem. Re install as Robert said ie. clean threads and blue locktite. Just in case you're interested the large bolt that holds the adapter to the block goes in at 50 ft.lbs. or at least good and tight. I use blue locktite on it as well. Obviously if you can avoid using the adapter that would be best, but I realize some exhaust systems require it.

about grinding the entrance ramps off, it does make for a better fit on such a thin flange. I usually find an older socket I don't mind grinding on.

kinda sorta have to use the 90 degree adapter with these headers...

Header wrap? Have you had any problem with excessive corrosion underneath the wrap?

I actually bought them that way right off Ebay....new, wrapped,Hooker Super Comps...been 15 minutes run time on them so far...so good. guess they were popular before fancy ceramic metalic coating...

William I have an extra one that is round on the inside with the hex on the outside. Holler at me if you need it & I'll send it out

i am good thanks, loctited it in and tightened it with 3/8s extension on ratchet. filter on,just have to adjust the rockers,add oil,and the engine is done, now as far as the trans....that is a nother story...

broke motor in....1500 rpm for 12-14 minutes, idled down, foot on brake, trans shifted to "R", worked fine, foot on brake, shifted to "N",ok, then 1st, nothing, 2nd,nothing,then 3rd, nothing, no foward gears engaged. fluid level is ok, pulled pan, valve body, performed ATSG air checks of servos&bands, all applied, all worked with air pressure. possible defective turbo action RMVB, dont know, called them today, the tech guy,called me back, i gave him serial#,he said ah 2000 build date, i told him i bought it new but did not build trans till 7 years later, did not put fluid in till weeks ago.he did not have an answer why i would have reverse but not foward gears, send to box up and send back for inspection/repair etc, ok, i have second valve body i bought in 92, gave him that serial #, came out of a working trans, its going in my car am tuesday. hopefully it will work and vb#1 was a defect...if not will pull trans #1 out and tear it apart looking for problem, have trans #2 i bought sat ,318 a-body core,just pulled, will go thru it with mancini hp rebuild kit and install. need to hit road before winter and drive car.