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Re: Electrical question about a 1968 300?
[Re: 70Charger V code]
#1475180
07/28/13 09:54 AM
07/28/13 09:54 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 21,065
Niles , Ohio
therocks
oh wait.but hey.lets see.oh yeah.
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oh wait.but hey.lets see.oh yeah.
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 21,065
Niles , Ohio
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The VR is a small box with one wire on each end.Get one of the new replacement ones that electronic.It bolts in and wires up just like OE.That way you dont have to run a new field wire and change to the new style alt and new style reg.It should be on the firewall IIRC.Its about 2 inches by 1 inch and if OE about 1 inch tall.Rocky
Chrysler Firepower
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Re: Electrical question about a 1968 300?
[Re: therocks]
#1475181
07/28/13 10:30 AM
07/28/13 10:30 AM
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,040
Lincoln Nebraska
RapidRobert
Circle Track
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Circle Track
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,040
Lincoln Nebraska
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What Rocky said. And when you mount the new one make sure there's good contact between the case/mounting bolts & the firewall (get some bare metal showing there).
live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
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Re: Electrical question about a 1968 300?
[Re: RapidRobert]
#1475182
07/28/13 10:45 AM
07/28/13 10:45 AM
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Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 3,886
Lost and Spaced
bboogieart
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 3,886
Lost and Spaced
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Don't forget to check the bulkhead connector. The amp gauge wires pass through it and can cause some heat problems. Corrosion can cause erratic fluctuations in the system. You can see the heavy red wire for the charging system here.
This is a shot of my 68 New Port. It's kinda cruddy but I haven't got to the engine bay yet. This will be next as I am about to install all new brake lines and a new master and booster.
I have mechanical Aptitude.
I can screw up anything.
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Re: Electrical question about a 1968 300?
[Re: bboogieart]
#1475183
07/28/13 10:47 AM
07/28/13 10:47 AM
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Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 3,886
Lost and Spaced
bboogieart
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 3,886
Lost and Spaced
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A new electronic regulator. This one is Chinese. I imagine you could find one built here in the States, but I got a deal on this. So I'm gonna take that chance. Please keep the hate to yourselves folks.
I have mechanical Aptitude.
I can screw up anything.
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Re: Electrical question about a 1968 300?
[Re: bboogieart]
#1475184
07/28/13 05:03 PM
07/28/13 05:03 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 21,065
Niles , Ohio
therocks
oh wait.but hey.lets see.oh yeah.
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oh wait.but hey.lets see.oh yeah.
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 21,065
Niles , Ohio
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Most of the new regs are real flat and dont have the tall box cover like that.You can put your old cover over the new one if looks are a concern.Rocky
Chrysler Firepower
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Re: Electrical question about a 1968 300?
[Re: 70Charger V code]
#1475186
07/29/13 11:44 AM
07/29/13 11:44 AM
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,040
Lincoln Nebraska
RapidRobert
Circle Track
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Circle Track
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,040
Lincoln Nebraska
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With the eng on a fast idle and all lights/accessories OFF then take off the green wire from the alt field terminal & jump 12V from the batt positive terminal to the male terminal on the alt that you just removed the green wire connector from & see if it charges. Keep the jumper on there for 3 seconds max just long enough for you to look at the meter & get a reading & likely you'll hear the eng slow down slightly as the alt engageing from this "full fielding" will drag the eng speed down slightly but enough to notice. this'll tell you the alt is good/brushes have continuity
live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
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Re: Electrical question about a 1968 300?
[Re: 70Charger V code]
#1475188
08/05/13 05:26 PM
08/05/13 05:26 PM
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,040
Lincoln Nebraska
RapidRobert
Circle Track
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Circle Track
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,040
Lincoln Nebraska
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this is the OE 1968 (early) system with the box reg in the pic & an alt with either 1 field terminal (69 & earlier) or a later alt with 2 field terminals & if so then one of them has to be grounded right there to the alt case. With the alt/reg good (assuming the reg is grounded well to the firewall) that only leaves the field wiring. check that there is fire to the blue wire (ign) side terminal on the reg with the key on or jump fire directly to it from the batt positive terminal or the starter relay large "batt" stud & see if it will now charge. If not switch the ign off then take off the green wire off of the other side of the reg and on the other end of the green wire at the alt pull the female connector off of the field terminal & connect the two with a jumper wire & restart it & see if it now charges. If the alt is good & has 1 field terminal with the green wire on it or 1 of the field terminals grounded if it's a later alt & the reg is good & the reg is grounded and the "ign" side of the reg has fire and there's continuity between the reg "fld" terminal and the alt field terminal via the green wire then it MUST charge. Holler back when you can. EDIT To check the continuity of the green wire an easier way would be (ign off) to disconnect the green wire from the reg "fld" terminal & then start it & jump fire to the green wire (not the fld terminal) for 3 seconds max & see if it charges (fast idle)
Last edited by RapidRobert; 08/05/13 06:04 PM.
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Re: Electrical question about a 1968 300?
[Re: RapidRobert]
#1475190
08/05/13 07:27 PM
08/05/13 07:27 PM
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Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 5,746
Ontario, Canada
Dodgem
master
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master
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 5,746
Ontario, Canada
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Quote:
this is the OE 1968 (early) system with the box reg in the pic & an alt with either 1 field terminal (69 & earlier) or a later alt with 2 field terminals & if so then one of them has to be grounded right there to the alt case. With the alt/reg good (assuming the reg is grounded well to the firewall) that only leaves the field wiring. check that there is fire to the blue wire (ign) side terminal on the reg with the key on or jump fire directly to it from the batt positive terminal or the starter relay large "batt" stud & see if it will now charge. If not switch the ign off then take off the green wire off of the other side of the reg and on the other end of the green wire at the alt pull the female connector off of the field terminal & connect the two with a jumper wire & restart it & see if it now charges. If the alt is good & has 1 field terminal with the green wire on it or 1 of the field terminals grounded if it's a later alt & the reg is good & the reg is grounded and the "ign" side of the reg has fire and there's continuity between the reg "fld" terminal and the alt field terminal via the green wire then it MUST charge. Holler back when you can. EDIT To check the continuity of the green wire an easier way would be (ign off) to disconnect the green wire from the reg "fld" terminal & then start it & jump fire to the green wire (not the fld terminal) for 3 seconds max & see if it charges (fast idle)
ground one field most replacement alts have both field terminals isolated and one needs to be grounded. the original would be internally grounded at the screw .
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