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Re: anyone use a painless wiring kit for a street car? [Re: moparguy] #14690
03/13/05 11:04 PM
03/13/05 11:04 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 140
Iowa City, Ia
frydfish Offline
super street
frydfish  Offline
super street

Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 140
Iowa City, Ia
I'd rather wire a car from scratch than use a Painless kit. It's a nightmare with a modified car.

Re: anyone use a painless wiring kit for a street car? [Re: frydfish] #14691
03/14/05 03:35 PM
03/14/05 03:35 PM

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I don't understand why that would be. I've got the 18 circuit kit so I should have plenty of extra circuits to wire in all kinds of things.

Brian

Re: anyone use a painless wiring kit for a street #14692
03/16/05 05:07 AM
03/16/05 05:07 AM

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Quote:

Hey all,
I've had a Painless Kit for a while and have had my dash and engine harnesses pulled from my car sense the end of last summer. Before I became inundated with school and work I managed to separate the original wiring (what wasn't melted together) and labeled ever wire on both ends. I'm hoping to get started installing my Painless Kit in about a week during spring break (took off work as well ) Anyway, I have a bunch of questions about the installation. I plan on mounting the new fuse box and running wire through a grommet on the firewall (bulkhead connector is fried). When I get to connections such as the headlights I'm going to buy new male/female connectors and cut off the old connector on the headlight side, for example, and replace it with a new one to mate with the new wiring.

If anyone has some tips/warnings/advice I'd really appreciate it. Here are some questions I already have:
Where did you mount the fuse box?
What was the ratings on the fuses you used?
How similar is the wiring process going to be to the original?
--Does the painless come with everything or am I going to need to wire in some minor parts?

This will be an 18 circuit Painless Wiring kit going in a 1969 Charger 383 4bbl with points ignition via a Mallory Unilite distributor. No A/C, no p/w, no p/l, not wiring in the radio, not wiring in the dash yet.

I plan on redoing my dash with Autometer guages. I'll probably keep the speedo, but everything else will be switched, so I 'll deal with that part of the wiring when I get all the guages.

Thanks, and if anyone feels like chatting about there experience please IM me:
AOLIM = lprmessiah
MSNIM = bjranimalmother@hotmail.com

Thanks, and please

Brian Russell





Re: anyone use a painless wiring kit for a street #14693
03/16/05 05:56 AM
03/16/05 05:56 AM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,075
rochester,new york
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plumebody Offline
super stock
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,075
rochester,new york
I would start the project first and then ask your questions as they arise. The painless wiring system is fairly easy to install.

All wires are clearly labeled to their required destination. The kit comes with everything you need to get a car running and function.

I mounted my fuse box under the dash and ran the wiring to the engine throught the original hole in the firewall. The kit comes with various amp fuses depending on the circiut. It also has a 25 or 50 amp main fuse to protect the main board.

Re: anyone use a painless wiring kit for a street [Re: moparguy] #14694
03/16/05 05:01 PM
03/16/05 05:01 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,100
Tucson, AZ
Ramrod39 Offline
My New Title
Ramrod39  Offline
My New Title

Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,100
Tucson, AZ
Quote:

How are the firewall blocks (not sure what they are called) The block that mates the internal harness with the engine harness




That's what I want to know, too. Anybody?


Re: anyone use a painless wiring kit for a street [Re: plumebody] #14695
03/17/05 09:07 PM
03/17/05 09:07 PM

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Quote:

I would start the project first and then ask your questions as they arise. The painless wiring system is fairly easy to install.

All wires are clearly labeled to their required destination. The kit comes with everything you need to get a car running and function.

I mounted my fuse box under the dash and ran the wiring to the engine throught the original hole in the firewall. The kit comes with various amp fuses depending on the circiut. It also has a 25 or 50 amp main fuse to protect the main board.




Well, I started today! Got all the bundles run to their general connections. Now I need to figure out how the power runs to them and the switches and get new connectors. I'll bury you with questions in a day or so, but I'll try and include pics when possible. Unfortunately my car is an hour away from where I live so it's kind of a pain to get new pics, but I took some today. For now I have to celebrate by getting so drunk I see little green men everywhere

Re: anyone use a painless wiring kit for a street [Re: Ramrod39] #14696
03/17/05 09:35 PM
03/17/05 09:35 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 244
Crowley,TX
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70Duster360 Offline
super street
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 244
Crowley,TX
I used an EZwiring harness and they do not have a bulk head connector, they just pass through the firewall with a grommet. I just made a plate to cover the original bulk head hole with a new hole for the new harness and siliconed it in place.

Re: anyone use a painless wiring kit for a street [Re: 70Duster360] #14697
03/20/05 08:36 PM
03/20/05 08:36 PM

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Quote:

I used an EZwiring harness and they do not have a bulk head connector, they just pass through the firewall with a grommet. I just made a plate to cover the original bulk head hole with a new hole for the new harness and siliconed it in place.




That's what I plan on doing. That way if/when I have my car restored I can just pull the individual bundles through with their connectors by removing the plate.

Re: anyone use a painless wiring kit for a street #14698
03/24/05 02:54 PM
03/24/05 02:54 PM

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Okay, as far as mounting the fuse box, where and how!?

I have mine temporarily mounted in the glove box because I'd like to keep it in that area. There's more space back there for the wires to branch out from then around the column, it's easy to get to, and that's where the original was. Where I have mine now I wouldn't really be able to use a glove box insert, plus the fuses aren't easy to read, and the wire juts straight down which there really isn't enough room to bend it out of sight. I guess I could cut all the zip ties and bend the wires outta the way and then re-ziptie them again out of sight. It's currently bolted through an existing hole in the dash lip with the mounting plate it came with underneath. The other bolt on the fuse box goes through the plate, too, but it's susupended. The mounting plate only contacts the car along that lip. I could drill some small holes in the lip and plate to further attach it to the car, but the rest of the mounting plate/fusebox would be hanging out. I'd have to put some kind of rubber matting between the lip and the wires to prevent them from rubbing through on the lip. Here's some pics of how it's currently mounted:


^^^^ Notice the wires jutting out underneath ^^^^


^^^^Notice the plate sticking out from underneath the fuse box to hold it up.^^^^



Another pic of the whole glove box and wires.

I'd like to try and mount it in the original location. I'm wondering if I got a longer bolt to go through the stock mounting "tab" and then got a long enough "L" bracket if I could bolt the "L" bracket to the right of the existing tab and have it extend far enough to bolt the upper fuse box bolt to. I don't think I'd have much trouble with it moving in that location because the existing tab should keep it from swinging the "L" bracket around. Also, I could use the mounting plate to help tie the two mounting points together. Any ideas, hints, tips?

I'll post some more about the various intracacies of the wiring in the coming days. Please check back as updates are made and throw out all your ideas. I'm hoping that with good pictures and ideas I can draw up a "how to" with pics for the tech archives section! (that is if this isn't a complete failure )

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