I thought I would share some photos of my 76 D100 project. These are before it was lowered, after it was lowered with dropped lower control arms and cut springs, and finally after I went back and tossed out the cut springs in favor of Bell Tech Dakota 2 inch dropped spindles and going back to the stock original springs.

It rode horrible with the dropped lower control arms and cut springs. It bottomed out all the time. I had maybe and inch of suspension travel even after cutting 2 inches out of the bump stop bracket. The alignment angles for the upper and lower ball joints was terrible, the outer tie rod angles were terrible. The upper control arms would hit the steering shaft on the drivers side. It drove ok on a smooth roads but smooth roads in Michigan are few and far between.

So far with the dropped lower control arms and the dropped spindles, it rides much better, I've got 3-4 inches of suspension travel. The alignment angles are better, the upper and lower ball joints are more in-line. Also with the outer tie rod end going from the bottom of the steering arm on the spindle that angle is perfect. However, now the lower control arms less then 3 inches off the ground. The lower shock bushing is less then 2 inches off the ground. I've drug the shocks once in the few days I've driven it recently. I ran into some clearance issues using the Bell Tech spindles with the dropped lower control arms. But worked past them.

The stance is exactly the same as it was with the dropped arms and the cut springs.

How it sits now.

wow. them are some extreme suspension angles , and btw what is the front air damn off of?

Air dam, no idea what it came off. Acquired it loose thought it looked cool. More then likely will meet it's demise this summer, as it drags all the time.

Is the rear just the axle flip?

The top two photos above show how the suspension sat stock. The Middle two photos above show how the suspension sat with the dropped lower control arms and springs with one coil cut out of them. The bottom two photos show how the suspension sits presently with dropped lower control arms, Bell tech 2 inch dropped spindles, and the stock springs the truck was born with.

The upper and lower ball joint angles are acceptable now, and the outer tie rod end angle is perfect. The upper control arm on the drivers side doesn't contact the steering shaft now. I can jounce the suspension until the bump stops contacts the lower control arm and the upper does not contact the steering shaft. It's close but it doesn't touch.

The upper control arm did touch the steering shaft with the cut springs and the dropped control arms, (Middle photos above). It was bad it would smack the steering shaft all the time.

I'm really happy with the way it rides now, it drives just like it did stock.

The only issue is with the clearance of the lower control arms. I may go to a slightly larger dia tire on the front to gain a little more clearance.

The rear is an axle flip with a one inch lowering block.

The next task will be C notching and boxing in the rear frame. Since the rear shock mount attaches to the inside of the frame in the same area the notch will go, I'm going to have to shorten the upper shock mount. Any one have photos of how they C notched their frame. I have a good idea how I'm going to do it but I'd like to see how others did it?

Where did you get the dropped LCA (were they the mid-america customs you had a while back)?

Did you replace the springs when you started to use the dropped LCA or did you keep the cut ones in?

I've been kicking around the idea of lowering mine but I don't want to bottom out on these horrible Houston roads.





And are those Boss 338 you have on you truck? What size wheels and tires are you running?
These are Boss 338 on this car...

The dropped lower control arms are the fabricated arms that Mid America sold. The have a 3 inch pocket. BRE sells the same control arm. They are pricey but nicely made. The middle pair of photos in the 1st post show the pocketed lower arms with cut springs (One coil cut out) The lower two photos in the 1st post are with the stock springs, pocketed lower arms and 2 inch dropped spindles. Those lower pocketed arms with 2 inch dropped spindles yeild about a 4-1/2 to 5 inch drop in the front.

I'm not sure if the Van lower control arms are pocketed quite as deep as the fabricated lower control arms as I've never had a set of those.

The wheels are Ridler brand, They are cheapie Torque Thurst knock offs. They have held up well over the last couple of years and still look good. The fronts are 17x7 the backs are 17x8.

I have a pr of their control arms for sale at half price on here in the truck parts section. New they now cost $660

Sorry I meant BPE. http://www.bpeusa.com/BPE37493DropKit.asp

The used pair would be a good deal if you are looking to lower your truck. Josh-

The site I found they were $660. Mid America is no longer around

just to get the stance I want will run me about $1,000
and that's using dodgeboy's LCA

wheels and tires are about $1,000

so that's $2,000 for the look.

I'll have to look at these numbers again

but, in the meantime, this was a cool looking drop too
although a couple of the pics look photoshopped to me

=http://ramchargercentral.com/technical-discussion/lowering-your-truck/860/

Why would it cost you $1000 including my arms? That's seems a bit steep.

Spindles are $238 shipped to the door
Perches & u bolts another $65
Tie rod ends & sleeves are $60
Offset upper bushings are $45
Welding perches $75
Alignment $100

I lowered mine & rebuilt the brakes everything new as well all the suspension for less than $800