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Drum brake problem driving me nuts!
#1430862
05/05/13 09:15 PM
05/05/13 09:15 PM
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Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 754
Pennsylvania
67DeLuxe
OP
super stock
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OP
super stock
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 754
Pennsylvania
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I have been chasing this problem now for 2 weeks. 1961 Dodge Phoenix with manual drums all around (yes, I know I should just do a disc conversion.) New single reservoir master cylinder, new wheels cylinders front and back, soft lines all look brand new. When you first start out driving the car you have nice pedal feel and car is rolling along great. After driving for 30 minutes or so around town the pedal becomes harder and harder. Eventually you can feel the brakes starting to grab ( rears, not fronts). Today when this happened I hurried up and jacked the back end up when i got home. Wheels were practically locked up. I could barely turn them and wheels were HOT. Cracked the bleeders open and fluid shot out like a firehose. Wheel cylinders released, wheels spun freely. This pressure will release on it's own eventually too because once the I stop driving the car for a few hours the wheels free up on their own. I have replaced the obvious, checked the obvious, bled properly, etc etc. Front wheels no problem, back wheels driving me nuts. What would cause pressure to build in the rear wheel cylinders while driving enough to cause the shoes to grab. And why does the pressure dissipate after it sits for a few hours? What am I missing here. I am no drum brake genius but there are only so many things it could be. I have even considered that the fluid may be getting heated up somehow but I don't see anything obvious with the routing of the brake lines. Any ideas, guys?
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Re: Drum brake problem driving me nuts!
[Re: 67DeLuxe]
#1430863
05/05/13 09:19 PM
05/05/13 09:19 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 20,158
Park Forest, IL
slantzilla
Too Many Posts
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Too Many Posts
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 20,158
Park Forest, IL
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Did you replace the rubber hose in the rear? It may look good but be delaminated inside and holding fluid pressure.
Had one on a Dart do it that looked brand new on the outside.
"Everybody funny, now you funny too."
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Re: Drum brake problem driving me nuts!
[Re: 67DeLuxe]
#1430865
05/05/13 10:57 PM
05/05/13 10:57 PM
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,040
Lincoln Nebraska
RapidRobert
Circle Track
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Circle Track
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,040
Lincoln Nebraska
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X3 if both rear corners are locked/hot. If only 1 side then I'd do a good visual behind that drum & if all kosher then replace the wheel cyl & bleed it out.
live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
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Re: Drum brake problem driving me nuts!
[Re: DoctorDiff]
#1430868
05/05/13 11:20 PM
05/05/13 11:20 PM
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,040
Lincoln Nebraska
RapidRobert
Circle Track
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Circle Track
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,040
Lincoln Nebraska
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I think the Doc nailed it  . I forgot about the adjustable pushrod on the early manual brake apps
live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
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Re: Drum brake problem driving me nuts!
[Re: 1_WILD_RT]
#1430870
05/05/13 11:31 PM
05/05/13 11:31 PM
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Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 754
Pennsylvania
67DeLuxe
OP
super stock
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OP
super stock
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 754
Pennsylvania
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Have not checked the pushrod length either. Will check that too. Good tip
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Re: Drum brake problem driving me nuts!
[Re: 67DeLuxe]
#1430871
05/06/13 12:00 AM
05/06/13 12:00 AM
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Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 27,347
Today? Who Knows?
1_WILD_RT
Management Trainee
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Management Trainee
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 27,347
Today? Who Knows?
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Easy way to check it is to drive it ill the brakes start dragging the loosen the nuts holding the M/C a couple turns, if the brakes release you know whats happening....
"The Armies of our ancestors were lucky, in that they were not trailed by a second army of pencil pushers."
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Re: Drum brake problem driving me nuts!
[Re: 67DeLuxe]
#1430877
05/07/13 11:36 AM
05/07/13 11:36 AM
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Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,179
Canada
demon
super stock
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super stock
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,179
Canada
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Quote:
I have been chasing this problem now for 2 weeks. 1961 Dodge Phoenix with manual drums all around (yes, I know I should just do a disc conversion.) New single reservoir master cylinder, new wheels cylinders front and back, soft lines all look brand new. When you first start out driving the car you have nice pedal feel and car is rolling along great. After driving for 30 minutes or so around town the pedal becomes harder and harder. Eventually you can feel the brakes starting to grab ( rears, not fronts). Today when this happened I hurried up and jacked the back end up when i got home. Wheels were practically locked up. I could barely turn them and wheels were HOT. Cracked the bleeders open and fluid shot out like a firehose. Wheel cylinders released, wheels spun freely. This pressure will release on it's own eventually too because once the I stop driving the car for a few hours the wheels free up on their own. I have replaced the obvious, checked the obvious, bled properly, etc etc. Front wheels no problem, back wheels driving me nuts. What would cause pressure to build in the rear wheel cylinders while driving enough to cause the shoes to grab. And why does the pressure dissipate after it sits for a few hours? What am I missing here. I am no drum brake genius but there are only so many things it could be. I have even considered that the fluid may be getting heated up somehow but I don't see anything obvious with the routing of the brake lines. Any ideas, guys?
Here's a suggestion, should you decide to upgrade the brakes. I drIve a 61 Plymouth. I wasn't a fan of the original total contact brakes And single master cylinder so I swapped all the brakes off a 64 New Yorker ( I also used the spindles and front sway bar from the 64). Now I have 11x3 Bendix brakes. I have a newer 8 3/4 so no tapered axles either. I also used a new dual master cylinder and a brake divider block from a 67 New Yorker. Total bolt on and stops fantastic.
Another option for upgrading is discs off a Volare/Aspen/5th Ave/Diplomat will bolt right on. Use the spindles, brake divider from the newer car too and it's easy
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Re: Drum brake problem driving me nuts!
[Re: demon]
#1430880
05/09/13 08:22 PM
05/09/13 08:22 PM
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Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 2,496
God's Country Maryland
GODSCOUNTRY340
top fuel
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top fuel
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 2,496
God's Country Maryland
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With a single pot master and only the rears are locking you most likely have a bad rear brake hose or bad proportioning valve. I'd say the rear hose is bad. Next time it does it disconnect the metal line before the rear hose to see if it relieves the pressure. If it doesn't your hose is bad. If it relieves the pressure the problem is before the hose.
I love the smell of Deer guts in the morning, it smells like... VICTORY!
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Re: Drum brake problem driving me nuts!
[Re: GODSCOUNTRY340]
#1430881
05/10/13 12:43 AM
05/10/13 12:43 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 21,063
Niles , Ohio
therocks
oh wait.but hey.lets see.oh yeah.
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oh wait.but hey.lets see.oh yeah.
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 21,063
Niles , Ohio
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There is no PP valve on drum brakes.That system just has a line to the back from the splitter.Its probably the hose if the cylinders are good.We used a 69 C body rear in my kids 62 300.Almost fit perfect.Then he scrounged my spare 65 B body rear and it did fit perfect.Rocky
Chrysler Firepower
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