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Do I just need to ground the casing? Or is there something inside that needs to be grounded? [/quote

I would be willing to bet its just a case ground. The way to check? SIMPLE! Just put a continuity or ohmmeter on the stud and case and check for continuity!

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The stud is simply a stud screwed into the casing. Normally, the bolt that holds the alternator to the brackets would be sufficient to ground but running a jumper wire from that ground stud to a bolt on the engine block wouldn't hurt.

Don't overthink it. It's just an additional point where you can ground from. That's it.

Not a bad idea to use it to make sure your grounds are 110% but not absolutely needed.

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Thanks for the replies. So then, I should be able to check for continuity between the case and the engine block and if it's there, I'm good?

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Thanks for the replies. So then, I should be able to check for continuity between the case and the engine block and if it's there, I'm good?

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Thanks for the replies. So then, I should be able to check for continuity between the case and the engine block and if it's there, I'm good?

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No.. You want to use a heavy guage wire from that stud to the engine. All the factory cars and trucks had a ground wire. You alternator is mounted with rubber isolators thats why there was a HD wire on the car. I would ask for another correct alternator.

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That stud" represents nothing more that an electrical connection to the case. As long as the the alternator is NOT isolated (electrically) he's fine. I did not read they the posts carefully, but I thought he is using this alt in a non stock application. I could be wrong.

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Now I see. The alts mounting bosses are isolated. All that would be required would be to reliably defeat this isolation. That could be by using the ground stud as designed, or by defeating the isolation itself.

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Now I see. The alts mounting bosses are isolated. All that would be required would be to reliably defeat this isolation. That could be by using the ground stud as designed, or by defeating the isolation itself.

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You don't want to eliminate the mounts. They help make the alternator last longer, run cooler and from what I remember cut down on RFI as they were mainly used in police and taxi.

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So the millions of alternators that are solidly and electrically mounted are doomed? Not saying you're wrong, just saying you're being extreme. I. The typically moparts fashion. Lighten up.

If the OP doesn't want to do add any wiring, fine....if he doesn't care then do it!

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I run the "big Chrysler" alternator also. As posted, the alternator mounts are rubber isolated - unlike the typical round back or square back. The big alternator needs a heavy ground from the case to to engine head or block to function correctly. Good sized block to chassis grounds are needed also. The OE ground on my donor vehicle looked like 6 gauge so that's what I used. Same size for the power wire (+).

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Finally someone else that can tell it like it should be.

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So the millions of alternators that are solidly and electrically mounted are doomed? Not saying you're wrong, just saying you're being extreme. I. The typically moparts fashion. Lighten up.

If the OP doesn't want to do add any wiring, fine....if he doesn't care then do it!

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No they are not doomed. The problem here is you gave incorrect advice on a designed system that you clearly know nothing about. You should admit the incorrect advice and take a back seat and learn something.



He needs to correctly ground that alternator. If not what that unit gets full fielded it will look for a ground and burn up what ever it can trying to find it. The op even states it was grounded by that stud to the head by a wire. Do it right and he wont have issues.

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Please show me where I advised that it does not need to be reliably grounded? Clearly the ground stud is to facilitate isolation.
Again...lighten up. Stay grounded.

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OK - This is in a relatively stock car, used for daily driving. Rubber mounts are intact, and using a multimeter, found continuity between the alt. case and engine in several points without the ground wire hooked up. That said, I did upgrade the ground wire years ago to about an 8 gauge wire... would like to keep it that way, if for no other reason than vibration may cause issues down the line ( i drive the thing like a a maniac...). Main point of my original question was to find out exactly WHAT needs to be grounded here, and from all posts to now, it's the case. Simple fix IMHO. Tap and screw into the original ground hole in the case and hook up my HD ground wire going right into the pass. side cyl. head. Am I wrong?

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You're correct. There is nothing wrong in your fix!

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OK - This is in a relatively stock car, used for daily driving. Rubber mounts are intact, and using a multimeter, found continuity between the alt. case and engine in several points without the ground wire hooked up. That said, I did upgrade the ground wire years ago to about an 8 gauge wire... would like to keep it that way, if for no other reason than vibration may cause issues down the line ( i drive the thing like a a maniac...). Main point of my original question was to find out exactly WHAT needs to be grounded here, and from all posts to now, it's the case. Simple fix IMHO. Tap and screw into the original ground hole in the case and hook up my HD ground wire going right into the pass. side cyl. head. Am I wrong?

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What I am reading from these posts is this: ground the alternator case to the engine and the engine to the frame via direct heavy connections (metal-metal heavy gauge wires).

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Thanks for the replies. So then, I should be able to check for continuity between the case and the engine block and if it's there, I'm good?

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No.. You want to use a heavy guage wire from that stud to the engine. All the factory cars and trucks had a ground wire. You alternator is mounted with rubber isolators thats why there was a HD wire on the car. I would ask for another correct alternator.

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