Greg,(Superformance) make .030 and.060 gaskets.

I use FLATOUT gaskets they come in all port sizes and thickness and will make you custom gaskets if they don't have what you need.

With our bailout tax dollars.

still leaking....when i take the carbs out I can feel "oily gasoline" on the intake to heads joint, and puddling on the intake valves that remain closed....its not just gasoline.

Dom
What heads are you using?
Is it possible to use a valley tray that would seperate the intake and lifter galley.

I am using a set of the older MP aluminum head castings (not the edelbrocks) with a stage V intake. I have a stock style heat shield under the intake.

Thats it.

I installed it with silicone on both sides and I still can find oily gasoline in there.

I am starting to think it might be sucking oil through the intake port brass sleeves??? These heads got the full porting treatment and blueprinting and the pushrod holes are bushed with bronze sleeves.

Funny thing is I could see oily gasoline on the head to intake joint and also puddling on the intaka valve on one of the ports that has NO PUSHROD SLEEVE showing!...so I dont know if that would be the problem....doesnt seem like it.

Man, now I wish I would have had this engine run on the Dyno before importing it.

I think Im just pullling of the heads to see if the valve guides have the rihgt clearance, check out the valve seals, take a closer look at the heads, reinstall them with new gaskets and check out if the inner valley studs are torqued to 45 lbs. I will but one of those extensions to be able to torque em with my torque wrench to the exact spec, etc.

Did you put thread sealer on the inner row of head studs that thread into the bottom of the intake ports?

Run it through a couple of heat/cool cycles and re torque or tighten the intake bolts again. then run it again and se if it is still doing it. When you pull the intake and look at the gaskets, do they look oily anywhere on the gaskets? Problem may not be the gaskets if you have tried all of this.

I had the same problem and symptoms on a Hemi with those same MP heads. I finally pulled the valve spring off an intake valve and was able to move the valve side ways .004" .005". The guides were way too loose. These were a new set of heads too.
I would think that Modern would catch this on your engine though as that is who fixed mine.
Once the guides were repaired all was good. I have been told the factory guides are oversize and soft.

These heads wereblueprinted , inluding replacing guides if it was needed.

However seeing IM having all these issues IM gonna pull those heads and recheck everything.

Oh BTW, Im thinking....would it be that overtorquing the valley head bolts it would cause the intake port surface that mates the intake manifold to warp and cause sealing issues???

I know that torquing those bolts on alum heads to the cast iron head specs that Mopar reccomends will cause the intake seats to distort and screw up the intake valve sealing.....but could it also distort the intake port surface to the point that it would cause intake to head sealing issues???

I did not torque those heads down, Im clueless about that torque is on those bolts now.....

If you're pulling the heads anyway , get Tim to machine the intake side for O-rings. He's just done my heads I'll post pictures later.

would be nice, but Im probably as far away from Tim as you are....I dont see myself shipping any parts of this engine back to the states to perform any work on them. I will have to figure it out myself down here....

yep I understand Dom. here's some pictures anyway I figured it would be worthwhile as some of the members on here indicated similar problems to what you're having.
hope it works on my build

2

those look great.

I suspect it might be sucking some from the threads on the inner valley bolts. Like Chip suggested Im gonna use some thread sealer in there....

Im also gonna use some penetrating locktite sealer on the pushrod sleeves.

and when the heads are out check vave guide clearance and valve seals...