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Re: 360 Magnum vs 383... What would make more power?
[Re: Pale_Roader]
#1393783
03/10/13 03:53 PM
03/10/13 03:53 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,936
Holly/MI
Dean_Kuzluzski
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,936
Holly/MI
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Just like learning how to save up money..............
it takes discipline............
to stick to a totally matched system for best results/happiness.
A single-plane Holley SD intake, 800cfm DP car and a the lumpy cam of the month isn't going to be real good on gas. And when a punk in his 302 2 barrel Ford runs away from you at a light it will just add insult to injury. More like 600-625 Holley or AFB, Eddy Performer and the cam mentioned here.............
The factory 335hp RR repro cam, or something similar, would be a better compromise that would still have a little rumble. Narrow lobe center cams typically, by nature, hurt mpg.
I know you've already made up your mind on the cam and everyone including the experts have tried to talk sense here but it just had to be said.
And I won't even get into the time wasted polishing the proverbial turd when it comes to used, but marginally, good shortblocks with recon'd heads. Done tried it, motor ran great for a year and then when to mud after that quickly. A good test for worn rings. Have fun.
R.I.P.- Gary "Coop" Davis 02/09/68-05/13/04
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Re: 360 Magnum vs 383... What would make more power?
[Re: gdonovan]
#1393784
03/10/13 08:05 PM
03/10/13 08:05 PM
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Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 1,087
st.cloud fl
d-150
Smarter than a 5th grader?
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Smarter than a 5th grader?
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 1,087
st.cloud fl
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Re: 360 Magnum vs 383... What would make more power?
[Re: Dean_Kuzluzski]
#1393785
03/11/13 06:13 AM
03/11/13 06:13 AM
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Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 4,862
the frozen wastes...
Pale_Roader
OP
Swears too much
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OP
Swears too much
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 4,862
the frozen wastes...
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Quote:
Just like learning how to save up money..............
it takes discipline............
to stick to a totally matched system for best results/happiness.
A single-plane Holley SD intake, 800cfm DP car and a the lumpy cam of the month isn't going to be real good on gas. And when a punk in his 302 2 barrel Ford runs away from you at a light it will just add insult to injury. More like 600-625 Holley or AFB, Eddy Performer and the cam mentioned here.............
The combo i laid out here IS nicely matched... you gotta give it that. In fact, not having a bit more compression and any quench aside, i'd say its near-perfect for a thrown together plant. Maybe not for mileage... but like i said, i have no illusions there. As far as i'm concerned anything involving a 383 will be bad on gas already, as compared to the options.
How exactly will a 302 2bbl run away from me at the light? I dont race from the light... its not a drag car. I'll find that 302 punk in the canyon...
Quote:
The factory 335HP RR repro cam, or something similar, would be a better compromise that would still have a little rumble. Narrow lobe center cams typically, by nature, hurt mpg.
And this point is always going to be personal preference, but i find nothing mean sounding or 'rumbly' about a factory 383 Magnum cam. If i was going to go as far as a 'mileage' or compromise cam, i'd get one specifically made for that and have NO coolness coming out ov the pipes. I dont believe in half-measures... its gotta be one extreme or the other. Compromise never ever seems to make me happy... i ALWAYS wish i'd either gone with the tiny, or the biggest engine... the 2.76 or the 4.10 gears, etc. At least its good at something.
Quote:
I know you've already made up your mind on the cam and everyone including the experts have tried to talk sense here but it just had to be said.
Hey man, i'm always listening. I take it all in... and love the fact that theres 6 pages ov opinions on this. I'm open-minded. I just have a certain vision and purpose for this car... they DONT mesh... (they could if i was rich, but i'm not), so i'm just trying to get a bit ov everything.
Quote:
And I won't even get into the time wasted polishing the proverbial turd when it comes to used, but marginally, good shortblocks with recon'd heads. Done tried it, motor ran great for a year and then when to mud after that quickly. A good test for worn rings. Have fun.
Again you have to understand my point... and that i've NEVER had a rebuilt engine... so i have nothing to compare used engines to. I've had MANY runners... just pulled out and dropped in... and most have been fine. The ones that weren't usually had some glaring warning signs. Nothing wrong with a used engine. Half the hotrods on this forum are technically running hard on used engines... not everything here has less than 50K on it.
And hopefully within a year i'll be finding something better to drop in it. This 383 is and was always (for me) a temporary fix. If the MPG does turn out to rival my Chargers... well then that will really kickstart my quest for a better alternative. Been looking up ways to squeeze power out ov a 5.2L Magnum the last couple days...
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Re: 360 Magnum vs 383... What would make more power?
[Re: HYPER8oSoNic]
#1393786
03/11/13 01:17 PM
03/11/13 01:17 PM
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Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 12,675
Columbia, CT
moper
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 12,675
Columbia, CT
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It all depends on what you can spend on each. IMO - the longest stroke will always get the nod from me. The two engines are very close. The 383 will add more value to an E body and most people like looking at one more than a small block. The 5.9L will get better milage and is easier to work on because it's smaller. It will also IMO be more responsive in a street driving arena due to the 3.58 stroke. So if the money's there for the transmission, driveshaft, and mounts/kickdown then the 383 might be a better payback. The 5.9L will drop where a similar small block was and feel quicker - all other things being equal.
And yes - either engine can be built for better performance...lol
Well, art is art, isn't it? Still, on the other hand, water is water! And east is east and west is west and if you take cranberries and stew them like applesauce they taste much more like prunes than rhubarb does. Now, uh... Now you tell me what you know.
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Re: 360 Magnum vs 383... What would make more power?
[Re: moper]
#1393787
03/12/13 12:21 AM
03/12/13 12:21 AM
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Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 2,275
Desert Tracker
HYPER8oSoNic
top fuel
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top fuel
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 2,275
Desert Tracker
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Well, you can always follow Steve's lead... Engine Masters, Spring 2009, the article titled "383 Power Play", using it ONLY as a GUIDE for YOUR APPLICATION). Not all mods in the article would suit your purpose, BUT the text is well defined in hands-on tech!!  As far as those big-valves in the 516's, be cautious! Do your HOMEWORK on those heads FIRST! I'd use the tech archives and other tech article as a learning tool before the trial and error on those heads. Might find that a comp. valve job and backcut 2.08 intakes and larger 1.74 exhaust valves may work, maybe not (depends again on cam selection). Or maybe a set of 906's may fit the bill. Simple, BUT effective mods are good - exotic and expensive mods are WASTE of TIME and PERFORMANCE!! The K.I.S.S. principle.  
Last edited by HYPER8oSoNic; 03/12/13 12:53 AM.
"Stupidity is Ignorance on Steroids"
"Yeah, it's hopped to over 160" (quote by Kowalski in the movie Vanishing Point 1970 - Cupid Productions)
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Re: 360 Magnum vs 383... What would make more power?
[Re: Pale_Roader]
#1393788
03/12/13 01:11 AM
03/12/13 01:11 AM
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Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 2,275
Desert Tracker
HYPER8oSoNic
top fuel
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top fuel
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 2,275
Desert Tracker
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Details huh? well, how about my proposed combo... -67 383 2-bbl engine (low comp, i probably dont wanna know... JohnRR depresses me every time he brings it up) unrebuilt and staying that way -Holley SD intake, basic mild plenum mods that worked VERY well on my 440, no heat crossover -Many different spacers to play with -Holley 800DP or Street Avenger 670 to choose from. K&N stub stack -alum water pump and housing, single groove stock pulleys (car has no accessories) -MSD Pro-Billet dist. Will be getting the MSD box too. -Chrome oil pan (deeper, stiffer than stock, gonna paint it engine color, i dont like chrome) -Alum valve covers -Mini starter (Dakota) -Hedman shorty headers with modified collectors (because the stock ones suck) OR -Long tubes (whatever i can afford) -3" mandrel X-pipe duals w Spintechs and T/A style exit Not yet acquired... -Whiplash cam (like the sound, the modern Chrysler lobes, seems to make good power, REALLY like the cylinder pressure building effect) -Machining on another pair o' 516 heads i have. Was gonna install some new Ferrea 1.81's (that i have already), port 'em as far as i dare, cut the guides, shave 'em as far as i dare. I may or may not do the head swap before dumping the plant in the car. If the guides NEED to be cut for a .518" cam (they dont for the Mopar .509"...???) then i guess i'll have to, but i'd really like to avoid it for now. That machining is gonna add up i'm sure... There is no money for a rebuild, so no quench unfortunately. I looked far and wide for a 68-9 383 Magnum runner, hoping i could get closer to quench and better compression... but never found one. The 67 came out ov a very nice 300, and i knew the owner. Rest ov the car: -Lakewood scattershield (have block saver too) -McLeod PP (have to buy a different clutch disc though) -Hurst Super Shifter 3 with Pistol grip -833 out ov 70 340 Cuda -8 3/4" rear (not in car, have yet to put it together or find a pumpkin... the sure grip i had turned out to be junk) -Might get tricky and mickey-mouse an aluminum driveshaft from something at the wrecker (dont have a shaft yet) -Aluminum rad (junkyard) -Electric fuel pump The car is a 70 Challenger 6 cyl/3speed car. The final first-phase curb weight with the big block (and now that i just sold my FG hood, dammit) should be around 3150lbs. And yes... it WILL be that light. I'm a weight-reduction master (and dont even own a hole-saw).
The 670 cfm would be a better choice with your Whiplash cam. Ever take a look at the Lunati Factory performance cam for the 383/440 Magnums
pn 10305LUN, if you have concerns with valve guide
machining (higher-rate double springs). Food for thought and the numbers don't look bad at all! Just an observation.
"Stupidity is Ignorance on Steroids"
"Yeah, it's hopped to over 160" (quote by Kowalski in the movie Vanishing Point 1970 - Cupid Productions)
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Re: 360 Magnum vs 383... What would make more power?
[Re: HYPER8oSoNic]
#1393789
03/12/13 04:18 AM
03/12/13 04:18 AM
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Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 4,862
the frozen wastes...
Pale_Roader
OP
Swears too much
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OP
Swears too much
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 4,862
the frozen wastes...
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Quote:
Well, you can always follow Steve's lead...
Engine Masters, Spring 2009, the article titled "383 Power Play", using it ONLY as a GUIDE for YOUR APPLICATION). Not all mods in the article would suit your purpose, BUT the text is well defined in
hands-on tech!! As far as those big-valves
in the 516's, be cautious! Do your HOMEWORK on those heads FIRST! I'd use the tech archives and other tech article as a learning tool before the trial and error on those heads. Might find that a comp. valve job and backcut 2.08 intakes and larger 1.74 exhaust valves may work, maybe not (depends again on cam selection). Or maybe a set of 906's may fit the bill. Simple, BUT effective mods are good - exotic and expensive mods are WASTE of TIME and PERFORMANCE!! The K.I.S.S. principle.
Got a link? I dont have the mag.
Keep in mind i am NOT rebuilding these heads... only doing the exhaust side (and only cause i have to to go bigger valves). I dont care how mickey-mouse that sounds... its all i can afford. I just wanna get those SBC exhaust valves outta there. Question is, do i go used 1.74's (and pay for the back cut), or new 1.81's. No one can agree, so far its about 50/50 on that one.
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Re: 360 Magnum vs 383... What would make more power?
[Re: HYPER8oSoNic]
#1393790
03/12/13 04:30 AM
03/12/13 04:30 AM
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Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 4,862
the frozen wastes...
Pale_Roader
OP
Swears too much
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OP
Swears too much
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 4,862
the frozen wastes...
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Quote:
Details huh? well, how about my proposed combo...
-67 383 2-bbl engine (low comp, i probably dont wanna know... JohnRR depresses me every time he brings it up) unrebuilt and staying that way
-Holley SD intake, basic mild plenum mods that worked VERY well on my 440, no heat crossover
-Many different spacers to play with
-Holley 800DP or Street Avenger 670 to choose from. K&N stub stack
-alum water pump and housing, single groove stock pulleys (car has no accessories)
-MSD Pro-Billet dist. Will be getting the MSD box too.
-Chrome oil pan (deeper, stiffer than stock, gonna paint it engine color, i dont like chrome)
-Alum valve covers
-Mini starter (Dakota)
-Hedman shorty headers with modified collectors (because the stock ones suck)
OR
-Long tubes (whatever i can afford)
-3" mandrel X-pipe duals w Spintechs and T/A style exit
Not yet acquired...
-Whiplash cam (like the sound, the modern Chrysler lobes, seems to make good power, REALLY like the cylinder pressure building effect)
-Machining on another pair o' 516 heads i have. Was gonna install some new Ferrea 1.81's (that i have already), port 'em as far as i dare, cut the guides, shave 'em as far as i dare.
I may or may not do the head swap before dumping the plant in the car. If the guides NEED to be cut for a .518" cam (they dont for the Mopar .509"...???) then i guess i'll have to, but i'd really like to avoid it for now. That machining is gonna add up i'm sure...
There is no money for a rebuild, so no quench unfortunately. I looked far and wide for a 68-9 383 Magnum runner, hoping i could get closer to quench and better compression... but never found one. The 67 came out ov a very nice 300, and i knew the owner.
Rest ov the car:
-Lakewood scattershield (have block saver too)
-McLeod PP (have to buy a different clutch disc though)
-Hurst Super Shifter 3 with Pistol grip
-833 out ov 70 340 Cuda
-8 3/4" rear (not in car, have yet to put it together or find a pumpkin... the sure grip i had turned out to be junk)
-Might get tricky and mickey-mouse an aluminum driveshaft from something at the wrecker (dont have a shaft yet)
-Aluminum rad (junkyard)
-Electric fuel pump
The car is a 70 Challenger 6 cyl/3speed car. The final first-phase curb weight with the big block (and now that i just sold my FG hood, dammit) should be around 3150lbs. And yes... it WILL be that light. I'm a weight-reduction master (and dont even own a hole-saw).
The 670 cfm would be a better choice with your Whiplash cam. Ever take a look at the Lunati Factory performance cam for the 383/440 Magnums
pn 10305LUN, if you have concerns with valve guide
machining (higher-rate double springs). Food for thought and the numbers don't look bad at all! Just an observation.
Yeah, the 800DP would not be my first, or even second choice, unless this was going to be the all-out engine i originally had in mind. I wish i still had the 750 vac secondary i sold with the Charger.
I was thinking 670 too. The 670 i have came off a friend's 440 Satellite, and worked pretty well for that car (HEAVY, stock 440, mild or stock everything). I'm thinking it might do a lot better on 60 less cubes... plus, its almost new and has some neat features. Down the road i could probably do a few trick mods and get it a bit over 700cfm too. That car actually got some pretty stupid mpg for the 440 and how bloody heavy it was.
I'll check out the Lunati cam, but last i checked they make Chevy lobe cams... and it just seems silly to use a Chevy cam when there are good brands making real Mopar cams.
Edit: Yeah... just checked, thats a Chevy cam, and no bigger than a stock one. Not gonna run hard or sound good. Pass.
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Re: 360 Magnum vs 383... What would make more power?
[Re: Pale_Roader]
#1393792
03/13/13 06:42 PM
03/13/13 06:42 PM
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Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 2,507
Royersford, PA
bschargerse
master
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master
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 2,507
Royersford, PA
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Quote:
I'll check out the Lunati cam, but last i checked they make Chevy lobe cams... and it just seems silly to use a Chevy cam when there are good brands making real Mopar cams.
Edit: Yeah... just checked, thats a Chevy cam, and no bigger than a stock one. Not gonna run hard or sound good. Pass.
The Lunati 10305LUN cam is not based on a Chevy lobe. It is Lunati's replacement for the factory Magnum cam. I called their tech department last fall about this cam, they told me this cam and their Voodoo series are designed specifically for Mopars utilizing their lifter size. The part number has been changed, it is now 10211005. Here is a link to the specs http://www.lunatipower.com/Product.aspx?id=1560&gid=255
Brian - 1971 Dodge Challenger
"The Dodge, which was practically stock, just left the Mustang like you wouldn't believe."
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Re: 360 Magnum vs 383... What would make more power?
[Re: Pale_Roader]
#1393793
03/14/13 05:20 AM
03/14/13 05:20 AM
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Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 22,695
Bitopia
jcc
If you can't dazzle em with diamonds..
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If you can't dazzle em with diamonds..
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 22,695
Bitopia
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Somebody mentioned the 383 can made "gobs' of torque, I assume that the poster implies that is more then a 360, so does 23 ci more from a short stroke motor make that much more torque then a longer stroke motor? Since no one has questioned the "gobs" comment, it's a correct comparsion?
Reality check, that half the population is smarter then 50% of the people and it's a constantly contested fact.
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Re: 360 Magnum vs 383... What would make more power?
[Re: Dean_Kuzluzski]
#1393795
03/14/13 07:51 AM
03/14/13 07:51 AM
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Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 4,862
the frozen wastes...
Pale_Roader
OP
Swears too much
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OP
Swears too much
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 4,862
the frozen wastes...
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Quote:
Quote:
Somebody mentioned the 383 can made "gobs' of torque, I assume that the poster implies that is more then a 360, so does 23 ci more from a short stroke motor make that much more torque then a longer stroke motor? Since no one has questioned the "gobs" comment, it's a correct comparsion?
Don't forget the lighter reciprocating weight of a smallblock would be a freebie inherent to the "gobs" that the 360 would have.
BUT, the experts have spoken and it's all moot anyways..............
the OP has the combo already tweaked in his mind and is going to build it to his liking no matter what is said. Which is fine but you'd think we could all walk away sharing ideas regardless.
A cam'd up car with tall gearing will be a fast car but not a quick one. Been there dun dat.
Yeah... this has been a good thread, cant believe it went 6 pages.
The whole big cam tall gears thing IS going to suck, but it will definitely fast-track any better idea i can come up with... 5 speed, 6 speed, ANY kind ov OD (well, anything but that factory 4-speed OD anyways). Funny... i remember watching Vanishing Point, in a few scenes where he peels away from a stop, and how odd it sounded... Well, thats exactly what that car had going apparently... done-up engine, 4-speed and 2.76 gears. Thinking back... i can live with that for the time being. This is a highway car first and foremost.
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Re: 360 Magnum vs 383... What would make more power?
[Re: Pale_Roader]
#1393797
03/14/13 10:13 AM
03/14/13 10:13 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 16,123
Grand Haven, MI
patrick
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 16,123
Grand Haven, MI
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definitely go with the 670, I'd probably look at hedman elites for headers, and for a cam, I'd look at these 2 lunati cams, I'd choose the smaller one http://www.lunatipower.com/Product.aspx?id=1578&gid=287http://www.lunatipower.com/Product.aspx?id=1579&gid=287comp #911 springs should work with either cam http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-911-16/overview/
1976 Spinnaker White Plymouth Duster, /6 A833OD
1986 Silver/Twilight Blue Chrysler 5th Ave HotRod **SOLD!***
2011 Toxic Orange Dodge Charger R/T
2017 Grand Cherokee Overland
2014 Jeep Cherokee Latitude (holy crap, my daughter is driving)
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Re: 360 Magnum vs 383... What would make more power?
[Re: bschargerse]
#1393798
03/14/13 11:09 AM
03/14/13 11:09 AM
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Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 2,275
Desert Tracker
HYPER8oSoNic
top fuel
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top fuel
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 2,275
Desert Tracker
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 The Factory blueprint cam would be better with your 516 heads. I doubt that you have to cut the tops of the valve guides or machine the spring seats. This cam takes a single spring with a damper insert. The 516 should be okay with this cam, depending on gearing, size of carburetor, intake manifold type/exhaust setup and intended use of motor. With the other two Lunati grinds suggested, (due to the HIGHER LIFTS ) you may have to do the machine work on those earlier 516 heads, since the pocket areas and exhaust valves are smaller (1.60 vs.1.74 later head). The remedy may be to pick up a set of later 906's or 452's (responds best to the bigger valves and template porting - thank you Steve D. and dogdays, I AM a student!  ) and rework them to the way you want them! I do not have the link for the 383 article, but you can buy a back issue from Engine Masters. Great tech and cost/performance comparisions! A good ignition tune and timing setup, will NET great response and good power in you 383. Again, DO the research and USE the tech archives wisely. The trial and error tuning should be done in the car once the motor is up and running. Then you will see what the motor likes and dislikes under load and real-time driving. Suggestion: ALWAYS keep a baseline (starting or reference point) figure BEFORE you make changes, it would definitely make life (yours and the engines') much easier!
Last edited by HYPER8oSoNic; 03/14/13 11:45 AM.
"Stupidity is Ignorance on Steroids"
"Yeah, it's hopped to over 160" (quote by Kowalski in the movie Vanishing Point 1970 - Cupid Productions)
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Re: 360 Magnum vs 383... What would make more power?
[Re: Pale_Roader]
#1393799
03/14/13 02:06 PM
03/14/13 02:06 PM
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Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 167
maryland
74yellowduster
member
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member
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 167
maryland
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Quote:
Curious. Care to share WHY you dont like the Magnum idea? simplicity? money? or just the fact i already have all the 383 stuff handy? You dont think the Magnum's are better, more efficient technology? My 383's heads were designed in the 50's... thats gotta count for something...
in case you are still convinced that the "newer" technology is "always" better... here is a photo of a magnum head. both of the heads from that engine were cracked between the valve seats.
(it's a very common occurrance, by the way)
here is a thread about those heads:
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=223959&highlight=magnum
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Re: 360 Magnum vs 383... What would make more power?
[Re: 74yellowduster]
#1393800
03/14/13 02:29 PM
03/14/13 02:29 PM
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Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 3,533
Indiana
Fury Fan
master
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master
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 3,533
Indiana
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Quote:
in case you are still convinced that the "newer" technology is "always" better... here is a photo of a magnum head. both of the heads from that engine were cracked between the valve seats.
(it's a very common occurrance, by the way)
I've heard the head-cracking story for years, and for a long time I thought "OMG, gotta watch that if I ever get a Maggie, everyone says those heads are junk and too much $$ to fix". Lots of guys say *every* head they got from a JY was cracked.
Newer perspective, though, is that it is probably not a big deal. I've seen lots of wrecked trucks/vans in junkyards, and presumably they were driving down the road when they got hit. I've never heard of a crack hitting teh water jacket, and the crack is most likely due to residual stresses due to the induction hardening of the seats - so it cracks once, and then is done.
EDIT - only the exh seat is hardened, I believe, and it's awfully close to teh intake seat (the intake seat surely has some spill-over localized hardening), and the space between them comes up to a point that you can see in that picture. If that point/edge were dressed down ever so slightly at the factory, I'd bet cracks would not occur. 
IMHO, lots of Maggies are driving around with cracked heads, driven by blissfully-ignorant drivers. 
Aside from that, teh Maggie head benefits from 30 years of design improvements relating to efficiency, HP (stock vs stock, per CID of engine), reduced emissions, and detonation resistance. Not a fair comparison at all.
Last edited by Fury Fan; 03/14/13 02:35 PM.
Parts I seek:
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69-73 C-body caliper brackets and/or splashields
Send a PM.
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Re: 360 Magnum vs 383... What would make more power?
[Re: Fury Fan]
#1393801
03/14/13 02:40 PM
03/14/13 02:40 PM
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Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 167
maryland
74yellowduster
member
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member
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 167
maryland
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Quote:
Aside from that, teh Maggie head benefits from 30 years of design improvements relating to efficiency, HP (stock vs stock, per CID of engine), reduced emissions, and detonation resistance. Not a fair comparison at all.
technologically speaking, i'll stick with my aluminum eddy performer rpm's on my 400. higher compression, perfect quench, flow better and are even more detonation resistant than the magnum heads. 
higher compression ratios burn the gas more completely (thus more power for the same amount of gas).
p.s. the magnums came out around 1992. i think the eddy's came out around 2000.
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Re: 360 Magnum vs 383... What would make more power?
[Re: 74yellowduster]
#1393802
03/14/13 03:20 PM
03/14/13 03:20 PM
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Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 3,533
Indiana
Fury Fan
master
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master
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 3,533
Indiana
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Well, you hafta have higher CR with alum due to higher heat loss, so depending on where you're at, that aspect might be a wash vs a stock Mag. The higher turbulence due to CR should still give benefit, though, but I wonder if the Mag ports compensate for that better than Eddy???
I'm not sure we could automatically say the Eddy is superior to a Maggie simply because it's 8 years newer, though. I'd bet Mopar had lots more resources to develop/refine that head vs Eddy (heads are crucial to emissions compliance), plus the heads are both for vastly different purposes. Both are better than an OEM bigblock head, without doubt.
Either way, Eddy is beyond the scope of what Pale is looking for.
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