I have a 68 cuda small block with 6 cyl. torsion bars and 90-10 shocks that I race. It runs 7.1" in the 1/8th. I have the bars set so the car is level and it gives no weight transfer at all. It has super stock springs with 80-20 shocks in the back. It just stays flat when it leaves. If I take a hold of the bumper and lift it will raise but it is heavy and is not "loose" by any means. Do you guys have any ideas on getting a stock front end on an a body to work the weight transfer? Thanks

Take the front shocks out and see how much resistance you have.You should be able to move it fairly easily. If the front suspension is bound up some where, fixing that should get the front to work. The rear springs may need some attention also. What is the shackle angle at the back? Is there enough travel in the back shackles to allow them to work? Are the springs too high of a spring rate? With the shocks loose at the rear, the rear should move easily also.
For a real education on leaf springs, go to an AFCO catalog and read the page on leaf springs. Very enlightening, with much information a lot of folks do not know about what can give you trouble.

Your control arm bushings may be binding. Take the bolts out and grease them. The lighter the front spring, 6 cyl torsion bars, the more stored energy you have with the car level. You may want to try the race torsion bar.

Your rear tire pressure could have a lot to do with this. My car would leave flat as a pancake with stock suspension. I was told by freinds the car was not spinning. Mounted a set of 28X10.5 slicks on the car with about 11 psi and she picked them up about a foot.

Leon

Agree with Leon.
And;
The best thing you can do to a frontend on a Mopar
is strutrods with heim ends. It frees up the front end a ton. And put a good set of upper control arms on it.
RMS has top shelf products! my

http://www.dillingerchassis.com/store/

get a set of adjustable upper control arms with heim joints...and a set of adjustable strut rods...

changed them out on our 71 dart along with new strange front brakes...car knocked off 2 tenths a couple two weeks ago in Vegas.

The heim joint uppers and strut rods made a huge difference for me. Remember both ends of the car have to work without binding (as Greg said)

You did not say what 90/10s are on the front, they are not all the same. Some take way to much force to extend (like summit brand)

Not all 90/10 shocks are created equal.LOLI'm sure MOST know this. Get rid of any Comp eng front shocks 1st. Without more info its difficult to predict but a set of stock rears or to tighten up the rears may be needed. For class racing there are secrets that are not freely passed around.

What shocks on the rear?
Are they 80 or 20 compression?

7.10s in the 1/8th is not too shabby. Are you spinning off the line to cause you to want to lift the front? What are you 60ing and what are you trying to get to?

What stops the front end moving around, if the strut rods aren't solid ?
Mick

6.50s in the 1/8th with old CE front shocks..

The biggest thing that helped me in my nose heavy truck was front end suspension travel coupled with some stored energy via drag springs. I do run cal tracs however.
Tom

My 60 ft times are 1.59 to 1.61 depending on the track.I have 28-10.5 M/T slicks and I have been running about 13- 14lbs. I am trying to get rid of the tenth in the 7.1 that I always seem to run. I would like to run in the high 6's consistantly. Thanks for the great input that gives me lots of things to check out.Its amazing only drag racers know how big a tenth of a second really is.

Your 60 ft seems a little high, If it's spinning try a little less air pressure. I run 10-11 in mine.

both of these cars have adjustable upper control arms with heim joints...adjustable strut rods..and CE 90/10 shocks..and they both have light weight strange brakes...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mwmkrGoVYg0

Wait a minute back the truck up.

Take a marker and mark your wheel and slick to make sure the tire is not slipping on the wheel. If they are you have two choices. Either glue the beads or install MOROSO or comparable screws. I used sheetmetal one time and broke all eight of them. Beleive it or not this can make a huge difference. I also ran without tubes seemed to help my car back in the day,

Leon

Are you sure you are spinning at the line? I struggled a few years ago right where you are at. I was running 7.10s and really, really wanted a 6 second pass.

Turned out, I wasn't spinning. I was hooking okay, I just needed more hit at the line.

Called PTC and upped the converter to about 4,000 and BOOM, I knocked a full .10 off the 60 and the E.T. I went from low 1.6s and 7.10s to 1.5 flat and 6.9s.

Now I have a lot more trouble hooking up than before.

90/10 CE shocks up front, ladderbars pointing down, 5600 stall, launch 4400, this happens with 1.29 60"s.

Bolt 2 sewer lids in the back of the trunk, you'll get lots of weight transfer!