Re: Ridge Reamers
[Re: Commando1]
#1374200
01/22/13 11:47 AM
01/22/13 11:47 AM
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,040 Lincoln Nebraska
RapidRobert
Circle Track
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Circle Track
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,040
Lincoln Nebraska
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You should be able to rent one for cheap at one of your parts houses & ask them if they will but new blades in it before you walk out the door. Put a box end wrench on the center nut & pull the cutters toward you rather than pushing the blades into the cyl wall which means you need to change positions OFTEN as you go around the bore. Stop & check your work OFTEN, use WD40 & it will not cut evenly around the bore so stop when any section has ALMOST all of the ridge down flush, Just use your own judgement/patience/be conservative
live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
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Re: Ridge Reamers
[Re: MLR426]
#1374202
01/22/13 03:41 PM
01/22/13 03:41 PM
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Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 2,495 God's Country Maryland
GODSCOUNTRY340
top fuel
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top fuel
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 2,495
God's Country Maryland
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It's a good idea to remove the ridge before knocking the pistons from the cylinders. If you don't you can damage the ring lands in your pistons. Plus, if you leave the ridge there and install new rings, the new rings could impact the ridge when it starts, damaging the ring lands or even breaking the new rings. One thing to make sure when using a ridge reamer is to stop at the top as soon as the old ridge is gone. If you keep going you will taper the top of the cylinder and cause a head gasket leak. Make sure you follow the directions for your reamer and they'll work as intended.
I love the smell of Deer guts in the morning, it smells like... VICTORY!
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Re: Ridge Reamers
[Re: Challenger 1]
#1374205
01/22/13 10:26 PM
01/22/13 10:26 PM
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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Ridge Reamer should be called "block screwing up machine" I have never ever seen a ring broke from "running into the ridge" just hone the thing, add some cheap rings and away you go--never a problem--do not use a ridge reamer--they are a stone age tool--just get a shop to hone the block , Wash the heck out of it and go--it will be just fine. Run the reamer, Bell out the top of the bore and you have a junker until you bore it and then many can't be saved from the massive attack done by the well meaning back yard builder ( I admire All back yard builders and have great respect for their efforts, as they usually do just fine) as long as they do not borrow a ridge reamer
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Re: Ridge Reamers
[Re: ]
#1374206
01/22/13 11:17 PM
01/22/13 11:17 PM
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Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 2,495 God's Country Maryland
GODSCOUNTRY340
top fuel
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top fuel
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 2,495
God's Country Maryland
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I just fixed a 360 engine that had three pistons with the top rings of each broken because he didn't remove the ridge, did a quick hone job and threw it together. The aftermarket 12.5 pistons he used had a higher ring height and on each stroke those top rings were over-riding the ridge causing them to break. Just because you haven't seen it doesn't mean it doesn't happen. It can and does happen.
I love the smell of Deer guts in the morning, it smells like... VICTORY!
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Re: Ridge Reamers
[Re: NachoRT74]
#1374209
01/23/13 09:27 AM
01/23/13 09:27 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 10,694 North Dakota
6PakBee
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 10,694
North Dakota
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I have the same ridge reamer that Challenger 1 has. On a re-ring job, I've always used it. In my cases typically I am re-using the pistons so the upper ring position is the same. I'll cut until I just reach the end of the ridge, then stop. Where I have seen people get into trouble is they start cutting the ridge out, get in a hurry, don't watch where they are going, and end up cutting into the upper ring travel area. Then you are screwed. As to 'belling' the bore with a ridge reamer, IMHO as long as it's above the top ring travel area and you didn't get carried away (looks like a funnel), who cares?
Now something that's other than a simple re-ring, well that's another matter entirely.
"We live in a time when intelligent people are being silenced so that stupid people won't be offended".
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Re: Ridge Reamers
[Re: Commando1]
#1374210
01/23/13 10:47 AM
01/23/13 10:47 AM
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Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 9,336 South-Central (Sebring), FL
Commando1
OP
master
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OP
master
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 9,336
South-Central (Sebring), FL
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Quote:
Use a flap wheel in a die grinder
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You can do more harm than good
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You should be able to rent one...Just use your own judgement/patience/be conservative
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Do not use a ridge reamer
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Make sure you follow the directions for your reamer and they'll work as intended.
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There are just too many ways to screw up a block with a ridge reamer
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Ridge Reamer should be called "block screwing up machine"
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Any ridge that too deep to cleanup with a hone job, likely needs an overbore anyhow
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SAME ONE I USED AND RUINED MY BLOCK
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I've always used it
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Re: Ridge Reamers
[Re: ]
#1374212
01/23/13 11:00 AM
01/23/13 11:00 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 74,937 U.S.S.A.
JohnRR
I Win
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I Win
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 74,937
U.S.S.A.
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Quote:
Ridge Reamer should be called "block screwing up machine" I have never ever seen a ring broke from "running into the ridge" just hone the thing, add some cheap rings and away you go--never a problem--do not use a ridge reamer--they are a stone age tool--just get a shop to hone the block , Wash the heck out of it and go--it will be just fine. Run the reamer, Bell out the top of the bore and you have a junker until you bore it and then many can't be saved from the massive attack done by the well meaning back yard builder ( I admire All back yard builders and have great respect for their efforts, as they usually do just fine) as long as they do not borrow a ridge reamer
I bought a 70 440 HP block that was standard bore , some donkey went at it with a ridge reamer. I didn't find out how bad it was till time to bore it , started with .030 , one cylinder the cutter didn't even touch the cylinder in one area til about 2" down the bore , next was about 3/4" , he got better as he went along... ended having to bore it .040 , except the one cylinder that didn't clean up till .075 ... that one got a sleeve
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Re: Ridge Reamers
[Re: buildanother]
#1374214
01/23/13 11:56 AM
01/23/13 11:56 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 74,937 U.S.S.A.
JohnRR
I Win
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I Win
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 74,937
U.S.S.A.
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Quote:
Wow, the big problem I've seen in all these responses, is the use of pistons with higher ring location than the pistons that came out. That can't fly at all. that case NEEDED a bore job.
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Re: Ridge Reamers
[Re: 6PakBee]
#1374216
01/24/13 02:08 PM
01/24/13 02:08 PM
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Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 6,095 Valencia, España
NachoRT74
master
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master
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 6,095
Valencia, España
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Quote:
I have the same ridge reamer that Challenger 1 has. On a re-ring job, I've always used it. In my cases typically I am re-using the pistons so the upper ring position is the same. I'll cut until I just reach the end of the ridge, then stop. Where I have seen people get into trouble is they start cutting the ridge out, get in a hurry, don't watch where they are going, and end up cutting into the upper ring travel area. Then you are screwed. As to 'belling' the bore with a ridge reamer, IMHO as long as it's above the top ring travel area and you didn't get carried away (looks like a funnel), who cares?
Now something that's other than a simple re-ring, well that's another matter entirely.
well, that was not my case... I cut until the ridge area, but I was to change pistons for stroke, so diff piston ring run ( here is where I need the brickwall icon LOL )
With a Charger born in Chrysler assembly plant in Valencia, Venezuela
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Re: Ridge Reamers
[Re: Commando1]
#1374217
01/24/13 02:12 PM
01/24/13 02:12 PM
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Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 6,095 Valencia, España
NachoRT74
master
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master
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 6,095
Valencia, España
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Quote:
I, ummm... appreciate the responses, guys. Thanks.
I'm talking about the reamer posted by Challenger1, which has a rubber shoe on bottom of the cutter what sets it to be angled like this / ... MAYBE ANOTHER KIND OF REAMER, able to make the cut totally vertical won't get you in troubles, and will need just to hone after the cut.
IMHO my mistake was on buy and use THAT reamer, at least without take care of the shoe. Maybe if I was removed the shoe, story was to be diff.
With a Charger born in Chrysler assembly plant in Valencia, Venezuela
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Re: Ridge Reamers
[Re: NachoRT74]
#1374218
01/24/13 03:18 PM
01/24/13 03:18 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 74,937 U.S.S.A.
JohnRR
I Win
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I Win
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 74,937
U.S.S.A.
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Quote:
Quote:
I, ummm... appreciate the responses, guys. Thanks.
I'm talking about the reamer posted by Challenger1, which has a rubber shoe on bottom of the cutter what sets it to be angled like this / ... MAYBE ANOTHER KIND OF REAMER, able to make the cut totally vertical won't get you in troubles, and will need just to hone after the cut.
IMHO my mistake was on buy and use THAT reamer, at least without take care of the shoe. Maybe if I was removed the shoe, story was to be diff.
If I am looking at it right that piece at the bottom has to be like that to make the part expand out to the size of the bore .
This is why only a trained professional should be using one ...
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Re: Ridge Reamers
[Re: JohnRR]
#1374219
01/24/13 03:25 PM
01/24/13 03:25 PM
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Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 6,095 Valencia, España
NachoRT74
master
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master
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 6,095
Valencia, España
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Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
I, ummm... appreciate the responses, guys. Thanks.
I'm talking about the reamer posted by Challenger1, which has a rubber shoe on bottom of the cutter what sets it to be angled like this / ... MAYBE ANOTHER KIND OF REAMER, able to make the cut totally vertical won't get you in troubles, and will need just to hone after the cut.
IMHO my mistake was on buy and use THAT reamer, at least without take care of the shoe. Maybe if I was removed the shoe, story was to be diff.
If I am looking at it right that piece at the bottom has to be like that to make the part expand out to the size of the bore .
This is why only a trained professional should be using one ...
TOTALLY TRUE! LOL
With a Charger born in Chrysler assembly plant in Valencia, Venezuela
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Re: Ridge Reamers
[Re: NachoRT74]
#1374220
01/24/13 03:50 PM
01/24/13 03:50 PM
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Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 2,495 God's Country Maryland
GODSCOUNTRY340
top fuel
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top fuel
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 2,495
God's Country Maryland
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Here's a pic of the one I've used since 1977. I actually bought it from JC Whitney, mail order. It's a KH 209 model.
I love the smell of Deer guts in the morning, it smells like... VICTORY!
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Re: Ridge Reamers
[Re: 360view]
#1374223
01/26/13 12:13 AM
01/26/13 12:13 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 10,694 North Dakota
6PakBee
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 10,694
North Dakota
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I'd be scared to try to remove a ridge with a rotary stone/bit/abrasive wheel, whatever. To maintain the tolerance you need for eight bores? Without botching one up? I'd go back to the reamer. The mistake I see people make with a ridge reamer is they turn it with a ratchet or a breaker bar. This imposes a side load on the tool and just makes it harder to maintain alignment with the bore. I get above the block (use a small step stool) and use a T-handle for the reamer so everything stays aligned. Just my
"We live in a time when intelligent people are being silenced so that stupid people won't be offended".
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Re: Ridge Reamers
[Re: 360view]
#1374224
01/26/13 01:13 AM
01/26/13 01:13 AM
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Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 6,257 gulfport, ms, west mi
rowin4
master
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master
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 6,257
gulfport, ms, west mi
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Quote:
Step by step, how would be the best way to use a rotary tool to remove a ridge, and what would be the ideal flap or grinding wheel to use in the tool?
Should one try to totally remove the ridge, or just remove emough material to allow the piston rings to compress and pass over a reduced ridge?
Should one strive to keep the centerline of the rotary tool parallel to the line of the bore, or should the rotary tool be held at an angle to grind the original ridge into a shallow ramp shape?
Since saving the block from damage that forces an overbore is much desired, At what level of material removal should one stop for safety's sake?
Perhaps a shim of a few thousandths thickness could be held just below the ridge to keep the rotary tool wheel from accidently cutting too deep or too far down?
Your joking right ? The ridge reamer tool is the only way to do it, other than taking the block to the machine shop. The questions you have asked and if your block needs work done to it you had better have someone else do it. JMO
it's ok to butt heads, just don't do it with a butthead
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Re: Ridge Reamers
[Re: GODSCOUNTRY340]
#1374225
01/31/13 07:42 AM
01/31/13 07:42 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,139 Canada -- Posts: 4034 -Registe...
5thAve
Doesn't care what this says anyway
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Doesn't care what this says anyway
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,139
Canada -- Posts: 4034 -Registe...
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Quote:
Here's a pic of the one I've used since 1977. I actually bought it from JC Whitney, mail order. It's a KH 209 model.
That's the kind I'm familiar with. If you screwed up an engine with a ridge reamer either it already had issues or you didn't do it right. Either way it's not the tools fault.
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