I detailed the engine bay in my car and in the process took the TQ off. I didn't touch anything on the carb and when I run the car now the fast idle stays on for almost 10 min. I use to be able to blip the throttle and it would go down. I'm not sure what happened or how exactly to adjust it. Any ideas as to what I need to check? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks

Sounds like the linkage is binding somewhere.
Give it another good look over

Iron intake ? .... flapper working in the exh man?

Loosen the bolts, jiggle it around and re tighten.
Good for a quick first shot

Choke out of adjustment considering that is what sets the fast idle.

What size eng and is it the stock intake ? Could be the crossover clogged but depending on the year and temp it can also have a problem with the electric assist choke. Over about 60 degrees the electric assist choke would open the choke fully in about 1 minute. Under that it needed the heat from the crossover and some electric help down to a certain temp. I cleaned many intake exh crossovers over the years. Ron

It's a stock '77 440 HP motor with the factory intake. I cleaned the intake in a blasting cabinet, repainted it, etc and didn't touch anything else as far as tinkering goes. Just a good cleaning/repaint of several things under the hood. I'm going to take a look at it in the morning and see what you guys are recommending. Thanks

Here's what I did...

How far I went...

How it is now. I did replace the valley pan as well from the previous picture.

check the manifold choke system... spring and rod could get stuck inside assemby.

BTW it can take very long! thats why on laters models got the electric assistant control ( this si for BB, SBs got the same without ballast ):

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-1974-76-most...44e&vxp=mtr

on a side note.... by the way you run the spark plug wires on driver side I guess you got the MP repro spark plug wire set. That's based on pre 72s setup... those are incorrect for 73 and lates B blocks

this is the correct set:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/360171097502?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649

driver side wires are longer to reach the valve cover route. I got a set with that PN and prooved ( 3838000 is the PN on my 74 catalog ). Then from that, requested that lenght to customwires set ( firecore )

it looks you have a missed bracket thought, which bolts to the top front valve cover bolt.

I can give you measures if need, ALTHOUGH now, firecore set should have the measures to make them under request. I emailed directy with Lindsay and Rick about that

Is the crossover area getting hot ?

Well you didn't mention in your first post that you replaced the valley pan gasket

Did you install one with the blocked heat crossover?

If that's open I still guess something is binding up somewhere

I can't remember if the valley pan had it or not, I thought it did. I forget all about that. You're talking about the port between the front and rear intake ports on both sides of the pan, right? Thanks for the heads up.

It has the electronic choke assist, I remember putting that back on and it's hooked up right.

As for the wires, I got them off of a member on here. I bought a set of NOS wires off Ebay, but once I got them I decided to just keep them as kind of an interesting item in my garage.

Thanks

Not to be smart but you did clean out the exh crossover passage in the intake right ? I only ask as I have seen guys replace intake gaskets and not even pay attention to the clogged crossover. If you did make sure the intake gets hot at the choke well after it runs a few minutes. Also you can use a test lite to see if the electric choke has power at the resister unit and then see if it is getting to the choke coil. But on the electric assist choke it depends alot on outside temps as when it kicks in. Usually above about 60 or 65 degrees it will send full power to the choke coil and open the choke fully in a minute or two. Under 60 it may get partial power to the coil thru the resister and under about 32 I think it will have no electric assist and just use the crossover heat to open the choke. Many of the specs for the electric assist are different over the years. But on any eng after running about 5 minutes the choke should be fully open unless its super cold like below zero. Ron

Just an idea... I think should be enough to check the valley pan opening, remove the EGR valve and check through the passages for that, instead remove the full intake just for checking.

and I know this is off topic, but preffer post in public just in case I'm wrong about your car wire brackets setup, but this is mine ( post 73 Big Block, in this case 74 Charger ):

After the engine is running, feel the crossover near the choke well to see if it's warm or for the 5 minutes it takes pull the intake and check the crossover. 440's and 383's just have to be the easiest engine to work on ever.
Oh, did this year 440 have an electric assist choke that you may not have plugged in?

Sheldon

I spent all of about 2 min looking into this issue. I checked the choke linkage and it seems to be working freely. Nothing was binding and the choke plate was opening and closing easily as I manipulated the linkage arm.

I didn't see an EGR valve, I did see a plate held on by 2 bolts on the intake below the throttle linkage. Is that where it would normally mount?

I didn't have time to pull the intake, however I did buy a factory replacement valley pan, if I can't figure it out by messing with the choke assist or the EGR I'll pull the intake and take a look.

I did blast the intake in a cabinet so I could paint it and I did clean out the crossover as well as the port in the heads with compressed air.

Thanks for the pics Nacho, I don't have the valve cover bracket, there might be one laying around here somewhere that would work. I bought the wires you mentioned so when they come in I'll see if they make it over the valve cover.

Thanks again

Nice job on the engine detail! What kind of car is it in? Looks like a late B-Body cop car!

I have also had problems with the electric assist on chokes. My old '73 Fury I couldnt get that one to heat up and I have had lots more with that problem.

You might take it out and check to see if its heating up with just the element and not manifold heat.