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Are you planning on doing it your self or having a
shop do it... if your doing it just get the spec sheet
for the cert... money well spent

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I'm ordering it in the AM with my first cup of coffee

While I have very limited experience with a TIG, being a body guy by trade, it's obviously something I want to learn and I learn quick. I can plastic weld with my eyes closed, weld with a torch and filler rod so I just have to add the pedal. Maybe ill take up sewing too! Ill obviously practice with scrap first (been watching a guy on YB have a tough go with his moly welding skills) before I start welding bars in but yes ill do it all myself.

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Are you planning on doing it your self or having a
shop do it... if your doing it just get the spec sheet
for the cert... money well spent

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I'm ordering it in the AM with my first cup of coffee

While I have very limited experience with a TIG, being a body guy by trade, it's obviously something I want to learn and I learn quick. I can plastic weld with my eyes closed, weld with a torch and filler rod so I just have to add the pedal. Maybe ill take up sewing too! Ill obviously practice with scrap first (been watching a guy on YB have a tough go with his moly welding skills) before I start welding bars in but yes ill do it all myself.

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Its just practice... and watching your temp... if you
can do the other stuff you can tig... I done a fair
amount of chassis's(all moly) and its nothing trick
but a good machine sure helps

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25.3 has a lot a bars for cars under 3600, which is not always easy with a B-Body!

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I know!

I helped install a 25.3 cage in an 81 Camaro a few years back. Basically fitting and cutting while the owner welded. Then I did the body and paint. Now that I'm thinking of doing this myself, I remember all the new words I learned that winter. Those 81 camaros tho, the junk they are, have partial unibody, partial subframe construction which made certain aspects around the firewall, knee bar and D/S loop a total pain in the ass. I also recall the lower floor portion of the cage was installed inside the car rather than underneath. How clear does the spec sheet get regarding variables between body styles? I can see why now a certain specific vehicle like a mustang is so widely used.

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Another word of advice...
Be careful of posting (SFI)copyrighted materials. You could have attorneys on your azz. I got busted(cease order) by a certain magazine even though I meant no harm... like you.

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Moparpoor, are you making a sheet metal interior? Looks great BTW! Ill be keeping all of my factory Interior which I know will make my life that much more difficult bit I think adds alot more personality to the car. Thanks for the pics! Gives me a good idea of what I'm up against.

Now who else sells 25.x moly chassis kits? I've always worked with s&W but their 25.3 chassis kit only works for chargers and correct me if I'm wrong but coronets/satellites have a shorter wheelbase do they not? That's alot of bars needing work before they can be fitted. Any suggestions? The above pics of the 71 B body must've had issues too. I know the kit for the Camaro I did needed alot if modifying but I thought that was more because of the stupid stock subframe up front. [/quote
Its only going to be tin on the back half.We used the factory floors and firewall.This allows you to eliminate the use for all #4 and #8 bars.As for using prebent cages on anything than a A-body isn't going to happen!!I wouldn't use any prebent cage over 8 points period.Way to many variables to cause issues!.

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Now who else sells 25.x moly chassis kits? I've always worked with s&W but their 25.3 chassis kit only works for chargers and correct me if I'm wrong but coronets/satellites have a shorter wheelbase do they not? That's alot of bars needing work before they can be fitted. Any suggestions? The above pics of the 71 B body must've had issues too. I know the kit for the Camaro I did needed alot if modifying but I thought that was more because of the stupid stock subframe up front.

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I doubt you could utilize the cert with stock back half in a b-body.

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The actual "certification" is only for the drivers compartment area and main hoop supports. The type, style, or location of the suspension is not part of the certification process. So, yes you could use stock front and rear suspension. But then it kinda makes the need for 25.3 chassis a moot point, as I think it would be quite difficult to run faster than 7.50 on stock suspension!

And Moparpoor - I would really like to see some more of your 71! (I miss mine!)

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Prostreetdodge, do you have other angles of that CAD drawing?

Been thinking a little more about my possible rear suspension choices. I'd like to go the 4 link route but I also want to retain as much of the original car as possible including the floors and rails. In theory I could use this weld in Martz kit and still do the 25.3 cage, independent of one another correct? Or I could also go the Calvert route too. John is a super nice guy and with his record holding parts (7.24@200) I think a strong argument could be had between Calvert parts and a 4 link made my whoever.

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That was an image I found on a Google search. I think it was from one of the chassis kit companies (Jerry Bickel I think).

Since there is no spec on suspension, yes you can run stock front and rear frame rails. I kept my front frame rails (cut off the pinch weld flange and re-welded for a cleaner look) and installed an Alter-K-ation front end.

The SFI spec is for safety, so it pertains to the portion of the car which protects the driver in case of an incident. The faster and heavier the car, the more bars needed.

I plan on using mine as a street/strip toy, so I am basically doing a 25.5 cage. But, I am leaving out the funny car portion at the moment. The car will still pass to 8.50. And if someone else wants to buy it and make it faster, it will take very little to cert to 7.50. (basically the forward portion of the funny car cage). I have been 8.50 in a door car. I don't need to go faster.

What motor are you planning on using to need a chassis that fast?

And I hate to be the one to break it to you, but there is no way you are going to keep or reinstall a "stock" floor pan in the car once you have a 25.3 cage in it.

Scott

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Why can't you keep the stock floor?Their is no added bars between 25.5 and 25.3 in the floor area.Actually by keeping the stock floor you eliminate the use of #4 and #8 bars.Three major differences between 25.5 and 25.3.First 25.3 is all chromoly round tube or recently updated docol r8.25.5 can be eaither mild or 4130.Second 25.3 requires roof x brace #37 bars.25.5 requires only one diagnol #37.Third 25.3 requires multiple 1"diameter gussets at multiple given points.25.5 does not require.
Now will you have to drill some holes in the floor,yes!You will drill holes in the floor for the pillar bars and main hoop to intersect your #6 an #1 bars.Retaining the stock floor does require more effort usually.

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