Time for some more weight loss!Cast master being replaced by a Strange aluminum.Clutch pedal being removed,,,,but how do I get that huge spring off ?? Was under there with a prybar with no luck

When it's too cold to take the gloves off

Two ways to remove the over center spring. Pound washers, alignment shims, etc between the coils when the spring is extended. Then move the pedal the other way to shorten the pivot centers and pop it off. Or loosen the pedal assy bracket (brake/clutch) from the fire wall. This will allow the clutch pedal to move far enough to easily remove it. I'd go this route and install the auto trans stuff. Then sell the clutch stuff.
Doug

Thanks Doug!

Itis, you mean one of these?
Problem is and no pun intended, there is actually only one of these as I had no intention nor the time to make a few extras thinking that most if not all people would think I went to the Cookoo's nest.
I do say though, that your clutch set up brake bar is slightly lighter compared to an automatic brake bar being that the foot pad is smaller on the stick versions of the brake bar family.
Moparjohn here probably knows this as well.

That 63'-65' triptych of pedals is a good hot item on the swap market.

Holy cow itis, you d@rn went off the deep end with a hole in one. That door just doesn't hold water anymore. LOL.
Don't try that on the frame ala Pontiac swiss cheese doodles. LOL

On my '80 Aspen the factory was looking to save some weight when they were required to put side impact corrugated steel in the doors. The factory took it upon itself to punch out circles and squares of the inner door frame. A bit spaced out than the '65, but the factory did realize the savings.

Before I even go looking,Lee & Doug say to remove the 2 pedal set up and install a single pedal set up.I'm more concerned with saving weight than money.What are these pedals worth,than what will a single set up cost?

Correct me guys, but I've seen quite a few of the automatic set-ups at swaps and for reasonable numbers.
The stick versions are the more sought after items, especially for the early B's.

Don't forget to count the shavings and dust from the cuts. It adds up. LOL.

Serious, I weigh that stuff also.

LOL no one doubts you do

Aluminum keys, no spare change in the pockets, total hair cut and shave, no underwear, fast for four days, trim the finger and toe nails and last but not least, go to the bathroom. LOL.

You forgot the Brazilian waxing too.

LOL. I wanted to go there, but it was a bit extreme. Glad you mentioned it. LOL.
This weight thing is contagious.
We gain more knowledge and lose more weight.

On my Volare doors I drilled the holes removed the crash bar's and removed sound deadner/undercoat with paint stripper. I saved 23 pounds per door.

I think I see where I went wrong, plain old steel keys and my door and ignition are keyed different. I need to leave the door key in the pit! New Best coming up! lol

I bet that undercoating and sound deadener was just as heavy as any metal crash bar material that was cut off. Usually undercoating is not applied heavy on the interior surface if at all, but I've seen some in some cases and it's usually light, but some have been heavy. I guess it depends what kind of work day the sprayer was having and what day of the week it was.

FMJ, do you by chance remember the type of aluminum bolts you are using? I have seen 2024 but wonder if there is something better to use. I have to order mine regardless as apparently I’m the only one in my small town to request aluminum bolts and it causes some funny looks, I look at them the same way when they tell me they don’t have aluminum bolts but the do have aluminum sheet metal screws.

T-2024 is for the most part the grades of aluminum bolts that I have used over the years. You can also try getting T-6061 bolts, but they will be a little pricier and a tad hair heavier because of their different alloys in the mix.
Mcmasters usually has all grades in stock ready to ship.