FIXED it for ya lee !

LOL.

It's been a long minute since I've been able to have a second or two to get some work done at Area51. Here's "The Palm Reader" himself airing out the light alloy door prior to the first coat of Epoxy primer. His attention to detail is second to none.

Very delicate surfaces on these things. Even a spot putty knife can cut into its skin.

Here's the front side with a hair thin coat of icing (Epoxy polyester) to get it razor straight. Block sand #100, apply, block sand #180, apply, block sand #220, Block sand #320. Do it all over again. LOL.
It is for a black car, so y'all know the ropes on the fundamentals.

I shot the Sheriff, but I didn't shoot the door. Front row seats to a haze of spray mist and vapors.
Be light on that Epoxy, it's starts to add up in weight man.
I would suspect the factory gave 'em all a light mist of primer and one coat of White as a standard assembly line send off hue.

I finally made some progress on my new exhaust.

pulled the old system down, 3" TTI H-pipe system, 2 chamber flows, modified tailpipes to go around the fuel cell all the way to the bumper, weighed in at ~60lbs total, lighter than I anticipated.

I have one of the aluminum mufflers buttoned up, modeled after the now defunct Vibrant aluminum bullets, 3.5" ID, ~5" OD, 14" long case, rolled the perf tubing for the center, and roller the outer case, integrated a 45 degree dump into the outlet. The perf tube is wrapped with fiberglass cloth, then the case was packed with fireproof mineral wool meant for 3" pipe.

Finished welding up the first one today, and threw it on the scale, 4 lb 4 oz.
These will be connected to Stainless collector extensions via an aluminum x-pipe.

Most systems are in the 60-85 pound range depending on mufflers and tube size.
That there is one sweet looking muffler.
Very nice work.
I for the life of me could not find any perforated tube like that to make my own Ultra-Flo mufflers, so I field it out to the cat in Canada to make 'em.
Where did you get that stuff?

The kick back is the weight difference and most probably the sound that you will get. It could be strange sounding with an aluminum system, but it will get used to it and it will be much lighter.
Are you making the system out of stainless only with the exception of an aluminum X you say?

Thanks, I have made a few motorcycle mufflers, just scaled it up in size.

I was going to drill out an aluminum tube, then wised up when I happened across some perforated aluminum sheet in the scrap bin. I used a slip roll to roll it to 3.5" ID, fused the ends of the sheet together and tacked it to the tubing for inlet and outlet. Unfortunately I did not take too many "in-progress" pics. I thought about making a box style case, but rolling the round case was easier. Do you have any insulation in your cases?

I am just running a stainless collector extensions as a means to adapt the 3 bolt flange at the collector to the aluminum tubing. I will also house my crankcase evac and O2 sensors in the extensions. I am leaning towards a slip fit to join the alum with the SS, then will go into aluminum tube, aluminum x-pipe, and the aluminum mufflers in the factory muffler recess area with dumps before the axle. Mocking this stuff laying on my back has been enjoyable...


Found some inspiration here as well:
http://forums.corral.net/forums/general-...aust-build.html

I was in the process of drilling out all the holes on an aluminum tube, but gave up when my day job work took too much time from me to keep a steady pace. You know that kind of job where you say; "This is crazy, why am I continuing to push forward" before you know it, you're knee deep in it with no compass.

Yes. I have full insulation just like the steel ultra-flo's.
Muffled the car down a bit much. "Something the boys in Detroit should have thought of when they built the "Silver Bullet" but the types of aluminum that we have today were not available to the general public back then.
My aluminum system is a slip on and well attached and clamped to a few points along the chassis. Dumps just before the axle.
I laid on my back for the mock ups as well. Not for the LIGHT hearted. LOL.

Good luck and try to document the progress with flicks.

Wow. Just looked at that Mustang exhaust system build. And I thought that I was the only Coo-koo kid on the block.
It's a movement.LOL.

I would like to update everyone on my 5 3/4" plastic headlight project. I have scanned the internet for plastic headlights and I finally found one that said the lens was composite. So I had to order a pair. When I got them the lens was thick flat glass and the housing was composite !@#$%^&*()_!
So today I finally had a chance to go to my local salvage yard that has at least 1,000 cars and trucks in it. I took my tools and a 5 3/4 headlight ring with me. The first headlight that looked promising was a BMW. After I got it apart the lens was cut off at the top like the new Challengers. So then I decided to look for a plastic cover that I could cut what I needed out of. I finally found a 1996 Chevy Blazer with a wide plastic headlight cover. I show it in my first picture. Then I cut out what I needed and put it in my headlight retainer ring. It looks pretty good and even has the wide flute pattern like the original headlights! I show it in my second picture. This piece of plastic weighs 2.5 ounces compared to a 12.5 ounce headlight. I am going and try to attach it to the grill and remove the headlight buckets and bracket.
MJ

So by cutting and jimmy riggin' it into your bucket area will you still have functioning lights somehow?
Great adaption idea.
I love how you are approaching this and inventing as you go, though I suspect that you will hear an ear full from the guys that will say: Why not decals, unless you are going to rig it up to be functional. Removing those buckets on both sides should net you at least 3-4 Lbs when all is said and done.

Way back when my two bucket removals down from four on stock steel fenders net me 3 Lbs. Now with the A-990 aprons in which all four headlights buckets are still there, I left them alone being that they are somewhat thinly rare. LOL.

I can solve the problem but availability might be slim. Head lights mounted on an older snow plow frame fit. Many are now square. Might find them at a privately owned auto supply.

I think this headlight thing is ill fated since perhaps the plastic/composite lamps came out after the old standard size bulbs were phased out?
Perhaps motorcycle lights are the same size and amperage to be able to work out?
The plastic bulbs that were given to me as a birthday present two years or so ago turned out to be just as heavy as the glass because of their glass lens and plastic filament housing.

Soon, I'll post flicks of the lightweight doors hung on the car that is, if I get a moment in my hectic schedule.
And then I'll roll the thing onto the scales because I'm just as curious as some of y'all.

Wow, with all that is going on my side of the fence, I'm floored at the traffic jam here. Great reading guys and gals.
Hope it's got some folks smartly rethinking some steps towards a lighter package.
I'm re-installing all my stuff back to stock on a "Real world weight gain program and it's cost" LOL.
Trust me, some of my friends have cost us our friendship with how they've gone back and forth so often. LOL.
Man, if you have removed that vinyl top material to shave 6 Lbs off the top of the car, don't come asking me if a audio system should be installed for entertainment.
At the end or beginning of the game, one should know what their car's purpose is.
Carry on.

So Moparjohn what did you use to cut the lens? Anymore progress? I have a friend that works for a movie prop house. They use a vacuum machine to make a lot of stuff. I was thinking the headlight housing could be vacuformed and glued to the lens with an LED bulb installed.

I would gather that 3D printing could result in some nice lenses.

I used a small jigsaw with a fine blade to make the rough cut. Then I used my bench grinder to cut it down to a snug fit. Just yesterday I went back to the salvage yard and bought 4 nice clear lenses. I already have them cut and ground to fit! On my next trip to town I will get some type of clear adhesive for a nice small bead around the edge. My next step is to see if I can use the mounting tabs to fasten the retainer/lens to the grille and eliminate some real weight of the buckets and brackets. This is for a drag car and they do not need to light up or function just look good.
MJ

Taking into account that some one should find the lightest carcass one can find to start a featherweight project, I presume that one of these babies is the ticket right off the bat and at least 50-80 Lbs lighter than a fastback fish.
I could be wrong, but the slippery fastback rear window with all the metal quarter and roof surrounding it compared to this Notchback's lean rear probably amounts for a few porky pounds.