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X Frame in 1930's Mopars #1292255
08/27/12 01:22 PM
08/27/12 01:22 PM
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 323
Endicott, NY, USA
crazyjjk Offline OP
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crazyjjk  Offline OP
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Endicott, NY, USA
Any of you mopar rodders out there who have or had a 30's Mopar with the X-Frame I need help. It is such a pain in the butt to run an exhaust system with it. How did you overcome it? If I can find a good chassis builder in upstate NY I think I will have the X removed and a tube replacement put in. Any help especially pictures would be greatly appreciated.

Re: X Frame in 1930's Mopars [Re: crazyjjk] #1292256
08/27/12 05:42 PM
08/27/12 05:42 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
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dogdays Offline
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So you have outside rails, right, and then a big X to stiffen the frame in torsion? Early fords had that.

Something to note is that the outer edges of the C section do most of the work, you are safe in cutting out the web or making existing holes bigger.

Some have built tubular replacements for the entire X, while others have cut out the center of the X and built a box that connects both sides. Without the center of the X, the car loses its torsional stiffness. So you have to have something...

It's a lot easier to do this and fit an exhaust system in, when the body is off the frame.

R.

Re: X Frame in 1930's Mopars [Re: dogdays] #1292257
08/27/12 05:54 PM
08/27/12 05:54 PM
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 12,481
Chino Valley
RodStRace Offline
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Chino Valley
Run the pipe under (ugly and hurts clearance) or through.
You can open one hole in each leg to get more room, but under the driver's side front has lots of stuff taking up all the room.
On my 40, I had them do a single and run it under the pass front leg and through the rear leg. This is like stock.
I've got a 5.2L magnum, and figure that it won't be seeing 4000+RPM much, so a single was easier to do.

Last edited by RodStRace; 08/31/12 12:46 PM.
Re: X Frame in 1930's Mopars [Re: ] #1292259
08/28/12 08:54 AM
08/28/12 08:54 AM
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 323
Endicott, NY, USA
crazyjjk Offline OP
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crazyjjk  Offline OP
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Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 323
Endicott, NY, USA
Thanks guys for the help. The pictures were great for me to visualize what I am going to do. Right now I also am running a single exhaust and have elongated the holes to run it through. Think I will end up pulling the body this winter and strengthening the top and bottom rails of the X-Member and open up the holes to run the exhaust. Hopefully while the body is off I can come up with enough funds to have it painted.

Re: X Frame in 1930's Mopars [Re: ] #1292261
08/28/12 11:12 AM
08/28/12 11:12 AM
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 323
Endicott, NY, USA
crazyjjk Offline OP
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crazyjjk  Offline OP
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Endicott, NY, USA
Checked KBS out at the Syracuse Nationals. Have used POR and really did not like it. KBS looked to be alot more user friendly and much more durable.

Re: X Frame in 1930's Mopars [Re: crazyjjk] #1292262
08/28/12 01:06 PM
08/28/12 01:06 PM
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 14,889
up yours
Supercuda Offline
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up yours
If you can awing it, powder coat. We have a shop around here that build's trailers and will powder coat large stuff like a frame if you want it done.


They say there are no such thing as a stupid question.
They say there is always the exception that proves the rule.
Don't be the exception.
Re: X Frame in 1930's Mopars [Re: Supercuda] #1292263
08/28/12 05:56 PM
08/28/12 05:56 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 16,376
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dogdays Offline
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Powder coat is great but not as abrasion resistant as I had thought, at least not on some security doors I had done!

R.

Re: X Frame in 1930's Mopars [Re: dogdays] #1292264
08/28/12 06:01 PM
08/28/12 06:01 PM
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 14,889
up yours
Supercuda Offline
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up yours
I imagine powdercoat is better than paint on a frame. I ain't to worried about cosmetics there, as long as it holds up enough to not chip, crack or let water in to cause rust I am happy.


They say there are no such thing as a stupid question.
They say there is always the exception that proves the rule.
Don't be the exception.
Re: X Frame in 1930's Mopars [Re: ] #1292265
08/28/12 08:38 PM
08/28/12 08:38 PM
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 251
Lithonia, Ga
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36PLYM Offline
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Posts: 251
Lithonia, Ga
Pics of the exhaust on the 36 Coupe. The pipes hug the bottom of the rails up front to avoid the brakes and the trans cooler, once past goes up thru the rear portion of the X then mufflers and on over the rear axle. Mufflers are nice up inside the frame rails.

7354899-IMG_0918.JPG (115 downloads)

36 Plymouth Coupe
318 w/360 heads
518 trans
8 3/4 rear
Ga. Tech BCE'78
Re: X Frame in 1930's Mopars [Re: 36PLYM] #1292266
08/31/12 08:53 PM
08/31/12 08:53 PM
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 21
North East
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BobPer Offline
member
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Posts: 21
North East
Here's my 36 frame with dual 2 1/2" S.S. exhaust through the frame. The front openings were elongated so the tubing can come straight back, and the rear comes through perpendicular to the hole so there's no problem. Through the mufflers, over the rear axle, under the tank and out. I didn't want anything hanging down under the frame, especially in the middle because I have a hump (sort of like a speed bump) at the end of my driveway to get into the street.

Re: X Frame in 1930's Mopars [Re: BobPer] #1292267
09/04/12 01:27 PM
09/04/12 01:27 PM
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 323
Endicott, NY, USA
crazyjjk Offline OP
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crazyjjk  Offline OP
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Joined: Jul 2012
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Endicott, NY, USA
Like the frame work you have done. Does that one bolted on crossmember you have bolted onto the frame that the mufflers hang on fit under the body or did you cut your floor pan? Also are those actual connecting rods holding your exhaust to that crossmember?

Re: X Frame in 1930's Mopars [Re: crazyjjk] #1292268
09/05/12 09:42 AM
09/05/12 09:42 AM
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 21
North East
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BobPer Offline
member
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Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 21
North East
The bolted in crosmember fits up just as the trunk floor steps up. The crossmember is mostly there to hold my master cylinder up as high as possible under the floor step-up. The master is accessed through an access door I made in the trunk floor. There is also another access door on the passenger side, because my battery fits on that side. And yes those are actual aluminum connecting rods with rubber bushings in the upper holes. If you'd like to see my complete build so far, I can send you a link to my Flickr picture album, just send me your regular email address to send it to. Bob

7365649-36floorcombo.JPG (70 downloads)
Re: X Frame in 1930's Mopars [Re: BobPer] #1292269
09/05/12 11:49 AM
09/05/12 11:49 AM
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 323
Endicott, NY, USA
crazyjjk Offline OP
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crazyjjk  Offline OP
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Endicott, NY, USA
Bob sent you a PM with my email for the flicker photo's of the build up.John

Re: X Frame in 1930's Mopars [Re: crazyjjk] #1292270
09/17/12 11:27 PM
09/17/12 11:27 PM
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 1,757
levittown pa
fstfish66 Offline
top fuel
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Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 1,757
levittown pa
I dont have any pics currently,,i have a 40 dodge coupe with X member,,and the round drive shaft tube in the center stock,, i have 2 1/2 pipes currently too large for this small hemi motor,,,but they go thru the round drive shaft tube along with the drive shaft,,with no issues of rubbing they are supported with a pice of flat stock welded across the 2 pipes to keep them from moving around in the center drive shaft tube,,,no tubes under any part of the frame,,,then up and over the rear axel,,,and dump out at the rear of the fenders,


1966 barracuda prostreeter super charged 340(SOLD)
1940 dodge coupe 241 hemi street rod
2014 ram express hemi 4x4 dailey driver
2015 cherokee
2013 R/T classic






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