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These are the goals I have for the project.

Now: Fix, Maintain, Drive, and Enjoy. There are little things that need to be fixed on the car to make it better. For instance the driver door is not original to the car and wasn't aligned when bought.

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I need to clean the rust in the trunk.

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I obviously need to replace the power steering hose after it blew up Tuesday turning into my garage.

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I need to fix the locks and

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probably add a kill switch.

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These are the goals I have for the project.

Now: Fix, Maintain, Drive, and Enjoy. There are little things that need to be fixed on the car to make it better. For instance the driver door is not original to the car and wasn't aligned when bought.

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I need to clean the rust in the trunk.

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I obviously need to replace the power steering hose after it blew up Tuesday turning into my garage.

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I need to fix the locks and

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probably add a kill switch.

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Why do you need a kill switch? Should be last on the list. I wouldn't mess with the electrical until you get the other stuff sorted out and put some miles on it making sure it's realible.

1) The driver's door doesn't shut right unless I really force it and the window overlaps the rear windows a decent amount. When you close the door you can here something is interfering with one another in the door latches.

2) Ok! Easy rust repair for the trunk. Thank you!

3) It was the pressure hose. Rockauto doesn't sell them so I was wondering what other places I should go to order them.

4) The lock in the passenger door doesn't work at all. Key won't go in completely and the locking mechanism (or tab inside) will not lock the door at all. You push the tab down and it doesn't go down. Almost as if it is just floating in its spot. The driver's side and ignition work fine.

5) I just thought the kill switch would be a nice idea to slow someone down if they were trying to steal the car.

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Its really cool that you got that Dart. Should be a good runner, while you do your upgrades. A body parts are plentiful and usually cheap if you're patient. Post what parts you need, when you need them I'm sure we'll help you out. Keep your eyes out for a 73+ 4dr (w disc brakes) to part out and you might be able to get your big bolt conversion pretty cheap once you sell of the leftover parts. Congrats again!

PS, whatever upgrades you do for now be sure to keep the Dart running and driving, and make sure you have the $ for them before you tear into it.

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Thanks! I definitely want to keep the car running and driving as long as possible. That's why a drivetrain swap isn't due till long term goals.

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3) It was the pressure hose. Rockauto doesn't sell them so I was wondering what other places I should go to order them.

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Nice find!! I love the look of a 68 Dart. I imagine you have big plans for it...

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O yeah! Big time! I always enjoy your build thread and the attention to detail you have.

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How do the body lines on the door line up before closing, low I'd guess? Is the striker post cracked, in other words can it be moving around. A bodies are notorious for the striker cracking out. How does the door to fender gap look, even or not? The door is fairly easy to adjust, but you'll need a floor jack or two people to it.

Also on the pic of the key in the lock, the key is upside down, on Chryslers the long part goes on the bottom, keyed (grooved) part goes up.

I HIGHLY recommend getting a 1968 Dodge service manual, as it will show and explain how to make everything function as new. Buy the book not the CD, unless you can take your laptop with you.

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Whoever reinstalled the locks on the newer door installed it upside down. Anyways either way I put the key into the passenger door it won't go in (actually it goes in less when put in correctly).

I have the 1969 Dodge Dart manual on a pdf and I do plan on getting the 68 manual soon.

As far as the door fitness goes, it doesn't look too bad but it does seem that the door is a little lower, barely. I don't have a floor jack but I can see if my brother can help me, maybe. I honestly don't know what a striker post is. Here are some pictures.

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The striker is the peg attached to the body that the door latches to. Examine the latch in the door to see if its rubbing on the striker. As the door closes it latches twice, the first leaves the door sticking out an inch, the second pulls it tight to the body. Its the second one that will make u slam it to close it. If the pass door works good, then close it slowly and see how the drivers door should be latching correctly and when it latches. But check for a crack around the striker first because if the striker is moving adjusting the door won't do you any good.

The 69 manual is basically the same, so save the $50 for something else. It should tell you how to adjust the glass & door.

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The passenger door closes effortlessly. I barely have to push it and it goes in easily. If I put the same amount of effort in the driver door, the striker stops it immediately. And you can tell the striker is feeling it big time.

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First off, the car looks like a good score. From your pics of the rear of the door and the striker, I'd say your hinge pins are worn. You can usually tell for sure by opening the door slightly, then grab the door edge and see if you can lift it up like there is a little up and down play in it. If you can feel it clunk a bit up and down, it'd basically be more worth it to change the hinge pins and/or bushings before you mess with adjusting the hinges. They can be a pain, but they shouldn't be very expensive. I'll also add to the earlier advice about cleaning the rust in the trunk. Once you are done, make sure you dry up all the water you clean it with. You can back it up in the sun with the trunk open to help with that, too. Obviously, now you will have wire-brushed through the rust and some paint, so you will have some bare metal. You will want to put some paint over that (not just primer--primer is usually porous). Otherwise, as temps and humidity change (especially if your car is outside all the time) the rust will show back up fairly quickly. Unless you are going for some perfect resto, I'd also throw those rubber trunk mats far away. If your trunk leaks or gets condensation in it, they will trap the moisture to the floor and rust it all over again. I got the cheap, thin carpet from the parts store and trimmed it to fit my Challenger. That stuff is breathable enough to not hold water under it, plus your stuff doesn't slide all over as bad back there. That reminds me of another thing...(this is becoming a book, but I hope it helps) Unlike new cars, the trunk walls are your actual outer quarter panels, so you don't want to go driving like Bo Duke with a big toolbox or a floor jack or something back there, or you will acquire some custom outward dents! If you have to carry that stuff, try to stow it so it can't fly around. That will hopefully save you some frustration down the road.

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