To all, I am wondering how hard or how much of a paint in the *** it is to service drum brakes? Any good tips other than taking pictures and do one side at a time. This would be for a 68 Coronet with a 8.75 rear end and I think 10x2-1/2 brakes. I was thinking of getting this kit even it is a little pricey? http://www.musclecarbrakes.com/bib6572charger.html
Was thinking of getting stuff from NAPA potentially.

Also, on the Emergency Brake I havde problem where the release is not fully releasing the brake so I'm not sure again how hard it is to replace at the minimum an emergency brake cable? Thank you again.

Drum brakes are easy if you have the 2 special tools. A brake spring tool and the tool to turn the hold downs. 1 side at a time is a great way to learn how to do them.

If cost is of no concern, buy from the link shown. To save, order online from a place like Rock Auto or just buy the parts at your local parts store. You'll also need to invest the tools posted above along with a brake cylinder hone and a set of line wrenchs. I only buy new wheels cylinders if mine a badly pitted, normally they are fine after a few strokes with a hone.

The insure reliabilty, when I buy a a new project car with drum brakes, I always renew the complete hydraulic system and only change or turn drums if they need it, I also inspect and repack front wheel bearings while it's apart.

Parts I always buy;
4 return spring kits
all 3 flex brake hoses
1 master cyl renew kit
4 wheel cyl renew kit
2 front wheel seals
F&R shoes

Parts I buy if required;
turn drums or buy new
reman wheel cyl
reman master cyl

And the cause of the emergency brake not returning is normally bad brake cables. The return spring is in the cable. If it gets internally corroded, the spring can not overcome the resistance caused by corrosion. You can get under the car and pull the cables back out of the sleeves to free the brakes till the next time the E brake is applied.

What Rick said get the 2 tools. I'd just get some shoes and wheel cyls from NAPA or anywhere. Clean/dry/lube the star wheel assy. Check for deep grooves in the 6 contact pads on each backing plate and smooth them out some if need be & hit each one with a LIGHT smear of grease. cover the shoe linings with masking tape before installing them then remove it when the shoes are on. When the drums are back on spoon the linings up tight then back them off till just free. I put the rear up on stands & a helper idling it in gear & he hits the brake to stop it & I spoon it up tighter then he releases the brakes till you reach the point on each side where you can hear a light "tick" of contact at ONE point in the revolution of the wheel. Ahead of time in the beginning undo the E brake cable on each end & if the inner cable is bound up inside the sheath take it out and soak it in your solvent tank. Use a hose clamp on the inside end to compress the tangs so it will slip free of the drum