Re: quick question on timing
[Re: pjc360]
#1197066
03/14/12 05:14 PM
03/14/12 05:14 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,602 westerly, ri. usa
440lebaron
top fuel
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top fuel
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,602
westerly, ri. usa
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if you have 35 degress at 3000 rpm that is your total timing
all parts are sold as is, all parts are considered used no warranties or returns paypal/check/money order, shipping is from zip 02891, buyer pays paypal fees 24% IRS 1099A plus 3% of part price, check/money order preferred site is not monitored 24/7 there might be a delay in response
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Re: quick question on timing
[Re: pjc360]
#1197071
03/14/12 05:32 PM
03/14/12 05:32 PM
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Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 21,318 Manitoba, Canada
DaytonaTurbo
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Posts: 21,318
Manitoba, Canada
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Quote:
Yes sorry the whole while having the vaccume advance plugged off. And yes i have been told its time for a re-curve how do i do that? and where can i buy the parts for the mopar electronic distributer with vaccume advance? And i wish somone whould answer my original question, with 8 degrees initial timing and 35 degrees mechanical that is a total of 43 degrees total timing, is this too much timing while running 91 octane? i have not heard any pinging under load so i'm guessing i am not hurting anything running the toal timing that high because i am running 91 octane fuel.
SLOWLY re-read my post until it makes sense. I did answer your original question. 35 is you total timing, not 43.
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Re: quick question on timing
[Re: pjc360]
#1197072
03/14/12 05:34 PM
03/14/12 05:34 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,602 westerly, ri. usa
440lebaron
top fuel
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top fuel
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,602
westerly, ri. usa
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43 is on the high side with todays gas even if you dont hear it ping. but 35 at 3000 is your TOTAL timing
all parts are sold as is, all parts are considered used no warranties or returns paypal/check/money order, shipping is from zip 02891, buyer pays paypal fees 24% IRS 1099A plus 3% of part price, check/money order preferred site is not monitored 24/7 there might be a delay in response
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Re: quick question on timing
[Re: pjc360]
#1197075
03/14/12 08:17 PM
03/14/12 08:17 PM
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,040 Lincoln Nebraska
RapidRobert
Circle Track
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Circle Track
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,040
Lincoln Nebraska
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you subtract initial (8) from the total (35) to get the mechanical amt (vac adv capped as you said). I'd want more than 8 initial which means the slots will need to be shortened to maintain the correct total which MAY be 31 instead of 35 on a magnum. With that finalized then lighter springs staying just under the pinging point at WOT then plug in your vac adv & staying just under the pinging point at minimum part throttle (high vacuum) at an RPM where the slots are maxed out as in out on the highway at a light throttle cruise. EDIT the light spring kit will change how fast the mechanical adv comes in & shortening the slots will reduce the amount of mechanical adv
Last edited by RapidRobert; 03/14/12 08:29 PM.
live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
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Re: quick question on timing
[Re: RobX4406]
#1197081
03/15/12 02:28 AM
03/15/12 02:28 AM
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Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 21,318 Manitoba, Canada
DaytonaTurbo
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Manitoba, Canada
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Lazy or uneducated. There have been a TON of guys come on here who've built solid 350-500hp engines. And so many of them have that deer in the headlights response when you ask them what they've done to the ignition curve. Seems nobody wants to touch the distributor but will gladly chase the problem around by playing with jets and squirters. Stock distributors had lousy curves for stock engines, never mind modded ones. If that was my engine, I would do the following: Warm the engine up good and hot to normal operating temp. Pull out the timing gun and set the timing at 10*. Shut off and see how it restarts. Repeat this procedure while bumping the timing up by 2* at a time until the engine starts fighting against the starter. You will know by sound/feel. Then back the timing off 2 degrees and see how it restarts hot. When you get it to start fine again with as much initial timing as possible, THIS is your initial timing. Then shorten the advance slots to get 34-36* or so total timing. I think that's what magnums like. Too much timing can actually make less power, even though you don't hear it pinging. Typical small blocks with open chambered heads will take more timing, like 36-38. Different springs will adjust the rate at which the advance comes in and the rpm total advance is all in at. You can have total all in at 3000rpm or at 2000rpm depending on how you set it up. In a 4x4, you probably don't need all the timing in overly early if you're going to be putting a load on it while 4x4ing. But get your initial set to where it should be, probably in the 12-15 range and enjoy increased throttle response, cleaner burn and better low rpm power.
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Re: quick question on timing
[Re: pjc360]
#1197083
03/15/12 12:43 PM
03/15/12 12:43 PM
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Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 632 MD-USA
Dodgeguy101
mopar
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mopar
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 632
MD-USA
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Quote:
Ok, so i advanced the distributer to 12 degrees and it still started so i went to advance it a little more and the distributer would not advance any further then 12 degrees, whats going on here? the distributer is not hitting anything ether? i dont get it? is it possible my old man put it in there to where it could not be advanced any further then 12 degrees? do i need to pull it out and put it back in at a different position?
I believe you can rotate the distributor back the other way and move your wires one position would be the easiest, than start over with the timing to get to where you want it. but others know more than I do. Probably didn't explain that very well.
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Re: quick question on timing
[Re: pjc360]
#1197087
03/15/12 10:29 PM
03/15/12 10:29 PM
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Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 12,271 Overpriced Housing Central
RobX4406
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 12,271
Overpriced Housing Central
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Quote:
Ether way i wll have to shorten the distributer slots in the distributer to be able to get a higher initial wihout affecting my total timing. I was talking to a fairly knowledgable mopar guy today in person at my house and he told me i dont want to shorten the slots because that will kill my top end? he said if you want better low end power the gear down lower but dont mess with them distributer slots, he said you have a 360 magnum correct? i said ya he said set your total timing 32 degrees and let the initial land where ever it lands he said dont worry about the initial timing the totalm timing is way more important.
Yeah stick with those smart people you appear to get advice from.
How exactly if the total number, which is fully in anywhere above where it stops advancing is going to hurt top end... that's genius right there!
Total is a fine method if all you do is run at the strip with no concern for idle quality.
You got good advice here and at FABO about how to do it on your street driven car. My suggestion, pick a method and go with it. One way is better than the other and it's like a brick wall sometimes because some are still stuck in the 80's with a mopar performance chassis or engine book.
Mopar SB distributors will spin 360* if there is no interference. Something is inhibiting your ability to advance it further. If it has a vacuum can on it, could be that, usually. The wires from the pickup... could be that too.
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Re: quick question on timing
[Re: RobX4406]
#1197090
03/16/12 03:26 AM
03/16/12 03:26 AM
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Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 21,318 Manitoba, Canada
DaytonaTurbo
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Too Many Posts
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Posts: 21,318
Manitoba, Canada
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So after talking to this "knowledgeable" mopar guy I hope you now know why we questioned whether or not your dad knew how to setup the distributor when he built the engine. For reference, here's a chart with slot lengths. You have to multiply the distributor degrees x2 to get mechanical advance. Quote:
dist. degrees X 2 + initial= total
dist. degrees / slot size 6.............. .340 7............... .355 8............... .375 9............... .390 10.............. .405 11.5 ........... .420 12.............. .435 13.............. .445 14.............. .460 15.............. .475 16.............. .490 17.............. .505 18.............. .520
So if you wanted 20* of mechanical advance you'd need about a .400 slot. Add 15 initial to that and you get 35 total.
Also, when you start revving up the engine, what rpm is your total advance all in by? Total advance and the rate at which it comes in are both things you dial in when you setup a distributor.
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Re: quick question on timing
[Re: pjc360]
#1197096
03/16/12 09:59 PM
03/16/12 09:59 PM
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Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 12,271 Overpriced Housing Central
RobX4406
I Live Here
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I Live Here
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Posts: 12,271
Overpriced Housing Central
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You need to identify which mopar distributor you have. Some have the mallory advance mechanism, easy to adjust, doesn't require disassmbly. The old style mopar ones require the distributor to be torn down. Look below the top plate and turn distributor shaft looking for a pair of T-15 torks head screws and a pair of small windows with a tab sticking up through it. If it has that style, it's a mallory set up. Loosen the torks heads and close the window up. You can easily whip up some keys for desired advance. There is some info here https://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/show...amp;Search=trueOld style, weld the plates. http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/techa...em/viewall.htmlI tend to weld the slot area closest to the shaft center. Mr gasket makes a light spring kit #927 IIRC if you want to change the curve.
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Re: quick question on timing
[Re: pjc360]
#1197099
03/17/12 04:17 AM
03/17/12 04:17 AM
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Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 21,318 Manitoba, Canada
DaytonaTurbo
Too Many Posts
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Too Many Posts
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 21,318
Manitoba, Canada
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Check out the links rob posted, and the description he gave, they will show you how to figure out which distributor you have. Quote:
so with a higher compression engine you want the mechanical advance to come in sooner or later?
Depends on a combination of cam and compression. If you have low compression ratio, you generally want the timing in earlier. If you have a higher compression engine with a big cam, you generally want the timing in earlier. If you have decent compression and a stock or mild cam, you may want it in a bit later if you're having detonation problems. If you're running crappy gas, you may want the timing in a little later.
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Re: quick question on timing
[Re: pjc360]
#1197102
03/19/12 02:30 AM
03/19/12 02:30 AM
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Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 685 Bismarck, ND USA
cageman
mopar
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mopar
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 685
Bismarck, ND USA
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I set all my distributors up around 20- 25 degrees initial, any more and they start hard when warm. My old power wagon has 25 degrees intial, and 36 total. Thats 11 degrees of mechanical advance. Runs good, idles great. Plugs look great. I also dont use vacuum advance on any of my trucks, just my valiant. Make sure you mark where the rotor is facing when you take out the dist, that way you can line her up. I have a center punch mark on the block and the dist base that is where 36 is total is about, makes it easier to get it timed right, as I have had to put the dist in and out a few times till I got the slots welded right. If you really want bang for your buck, advance the cam 3 or 4 degrees on the timing chain, will lower the torque curve to a more useable rpm. If you have a timing chain with more than one key way slot it is easy, otherwise you will need the offset key ways.
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Re: quick question on timing
[Re: pjc360]
#1197104
03/19/12 09:11 PM
03/19/12 09:11 PM
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,040 Lincoln Nebraska
RapidRobert
Circle Track
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Circle Track
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,040
Lincoln Nebraska
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it would simplify things for you. get your initial amt finalized then adj the torx screws to set the total then play with springs to adj how fast the curve comes in then hookup vac adv (if you are using it) & adj (A) when it's curve starts w a 3/32" allen wrench & more advanced can (B) alter how much advance is in it by (re)working the arms' travel
live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
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Re: quick question on timing
[Re: DaytonaTurbo]
#1197107
03/20/12 12:28 PM
03/20/12 12:28 PM
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,040 Lincoln Nebraska
RapidRobert
Circle Track
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Circle Track
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,040
Lincoln Nebraska
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I agree w what DaytonaTurbo said but if you're not comfortable undoing the clip & going inside the dist several times to get the slots/springs right then the newer Mallory built one may be the way to go but that is alot of $$$. anybody local that can help you w this?
live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
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