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which is more consistent for bracket raceing #1195326
03/11/12 11:33 PM
03/11/12 11:33 PM
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california,usa
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slowpoke68 Offline OP
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i'm in a possition to run either a big block or a small block.my big question is which would be wore consistent to run bracket races small block or big block?i want to run low 10s but do not run the motor to hard or have something very costly to run.what's the best

Re: which is more consistent for bracket raceing [Re: slowpoke68] #1195327
03/11/12 11:38 PM
03/11/12 11:38 PM
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bean town ....Ca
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WHITEDART Offline
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i would put the big block in the trunk so it will hook and the small block under the hood for power


In the 8s N/A.with Brett miller W8's
5.07 at 133 at 2700lb
Re: which is more consistent for bracket raceing [Re: WHITEDART] #1195328
03/11/12 11:42 PM
03/11/12 11:42 PM
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St. Paul , Mn.
tubtar Offline
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I'd say big block but there are only a thousand other factors in what makes a consistent car.
Having a motor that isn't stretched out every lap will yield more consistent performance , and that will be easier with a big block for the E.T.'s you are looking for.

Re: which is more consistent for bracket raceing [Re: slowpoke68] #1195329
03/11/12 11:47 PM
03/11/12 11:47 PM
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Romeo MI
MR_P_BODY Offline
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Romeo MI
Any engine can run consistent if its tuned right...
to make a car consistent I would make it LIGHT which
is easier on parts

Re: which is more consistent for bracket raceing [Re: tubtar] #1195330
03/11/12 11:48 PM
03/11/12 11:48 PM
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moparacer Offline
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Either way... Make it big inch.

Small engines seem to be more susceptible to changes in the air.


67 Barracuda street/bracket car 11.27-119
68 Dart 502 BB 8.70s-152
414 cid SB Dragster 7.65-174
Re: which is more consistent for bracket raceing [Re: slowpoke68] #1195331
03/11/12 11:48 PM
03/11/12 11:48 PM
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Glendora Ca.
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Just-a-dart Offline
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I'd build a alum. headed low deck big block like a 451. or steal all the parts you can from "whitedart" and go smallblock.



"Just a Bracket car dressed up like a streetcar"
Re: which is more consistent for bracket raceing [Re: tubtar] #1195332
03/11/12 11:49 PM
03/11/12 11:49 PM
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Kalispell Mt.
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HotRodDave Offline
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With a SB you can get a lot of weight off the front and that can help you hook more consistantly


I am not causing global warming, I am just trying to hold off a impending Ice Age!



Re: which is more consistent for bracket raceing [Re: HotRodDave] #1195333
03/12/12 01:37 AM
03/12/12 01:37 AM
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Frostbitefalls MN (Rocky&Bullw...
gregsdart Offline
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You want to run low tens? At what weight? Lets say you budget to get down to 3200 lbs. You will need 625/650 hp on the dyno to run 10.0s consistently in average midwest air. My choice would be a 512 bb based on a 400 block. A set of massaged small port heads, run E85, and a glide. A 590 or similar flat tappet cam ought to do the trick. A set of 14/32 slicks on 14 inch rims and you should be absolutely deadly once dialed in.
About a 5000 converter (no less), shift at 6000 rpm and it will last a LONG time. You probably will want to run a 4.10 gear also. I had a 475 with 440-c heads, a juice cam with .540 lift and a small 750 methanol carb and went 10 teens at 3180 lbs as an example of what can be done with out breaking the bank.


8..603 156 mph best, 2905 lbs 549, indy 572-13, alky
Re: which is more consistent for bracket raceing [Re: gregsdart] #1195334
03/12/12 03:13 AM
03/12/12 03:13 AM
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St. Paul , Mn.
tubtar Offline
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Quote:

You want to run low tens? At what weight? Lets say you budget to get down to 3200 lbs. You will need 625/650 hp on the dyno to run 10.0s consistently in average midwest air. My choice would be a 512 bb based on a 400 block. A set of massaged small port heads, run E85, and a glide. A 590 or similar flat tappet cam ought to do the trick. A set of 14/32 slicks on 14 inch rims and you should be absolutely deadly once dialed in.
About a 5000 converter (no less), shift at 6000 rpm and it will last a LONG time. You probably will want to run a 4.10 gear also. I had a 475 with 440-c heads, a juice cam with .540 lift and a small 750 methanol carb and went 10 teens at 3180 lbs as an example of what can be done with out breaking the bank.




S'what I'm talkin about.
Losing weight makes a ton of sense too , but a big motor that isn't maxed out will be the most cost effective and reliable route to my way of thinking.

Re: which is more consistent for bracket raceing [Re: gregsdart] #1195335
03/12/12 11:59 AM
03/12/12 11:59 AM
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Dandridge TN
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Dabee Offline
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Quote:

You want to run low tens? At what weight? Lets say you budget to get down to 3200 lbs. You will need 625/650 hp on the dyno to run 10.0s consistently in average midwest air. My choice would be a 512 bb based on a 400 block. A set of massaged small port heads, run E85, and a glide. A 590 or similar flat tappet cam ought to do the trick. A set of 14/32 slicks on 14 inch rims and you should be absolutely deadly once dialed in.
About a 5000 converter (no less), shift at 6000 rpm and it will last a LONG time. You probably will want to run a 4.10 gear also. I had a 475 with 440-c heads, a juice cam with .540 lift and a small 750 methanol carb and went 10 teens at 3180 lbs as an example of what can be done with out breaking the bank.




Hay you just described my combo with some minor differences. I have an RB block, 4.15 stroke, 496 ci, OTB Eddy heads, 5.60 lift, PG, 5400 stall converter, 4.67 gears and 14-31-15 slicks on a 12 in rim. The car weighs 2900 lbs and it is deadly consistent. It runs 6.56 1/8 mile in 2000 to 3000ft DA.

Re: which is more consistent for bracket raceing [Re: Dabee] #1195336
03/12/12 12:11 PM
03/12/12 12:11 PM
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Las Vegas
Al_Alguire Offline
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I agree that with work any combo can be dealdy consistent. Just takes hard work and persaverance.

To the posters question in my mind a BB would be the best choice. The reason being it will be a much more mild engine build. I also think you can build a 650ish HP BB for less money than a SB of similar power levels.

But either can be made consistent. Being a consistent money winning bracket racer is about the total package not just the power plant. Every part of the car needs to be built, tweaked with an eye toward repeatability.


"I am not ashamed to confess I am ignorant of what I do not know."

"It's never wrong to do the right thing"
Re: which is more consistent for bracket raceing [Re: gregsdart] #1195337
03/13/12 11:54 PM
03/13/12 11:54 PM
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california,usa
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slowpoke68 Offline OP
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good ideal about the big block but its all about combinations right? i just pick up a 68 dart that i plan on haveing some fiberglass,10.5 slicks,3 spd trans and try to keep the weight down to 2900 or so i guess a diet program is in the works also

Re: which is more consistent for bracket raceing [Re: slowpoke68] #1195338
03/14/12 02:13 AM
03/14/12 02:13 AM
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Las Vegas
Al_Alguire Offline
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If it is about consistency then ditch the three speed and go with a glide..One less shift, one less area for inconsistency to occur. Just saying


"I am not ashamed to confess I am ignorant of what I do not know."

"It's never wrong to do the right thing"
Re: which is more consistent for bracket raceing [Re: Al_Alguire] #1195339
03/14/12 01:52 PM
03/14/12 01:52 PM
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New York
polyspheric Offline
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X2 - less violent launch due to taller 1st gear ratio, plus half as many shifts.


Boffin Emeritus
Re: which is more consistent for bracket raceing [Re: polyspheric] #1195340
03/14/12 02:11 PM
03/14/12 02:11 PM
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PA
moparacer Offline
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Yep if you wanna look cool and do a big wheelie put a bunch of gear in it and a 727/904.

If you want to go rounds bracket racing take some gear out, put a glide in it and run a looooose converter...

Probably 2-3 tenths slower that way but you will turn more win lights on. Especially if you are running in the 9s on questionable tracks.


67 Barracuda street/bracket car 11.27-119
68 Dart 502 BB 8.70s-152
414 cid SB Dragster 7.65-174
Re: which is more consistent for bracket raceing [Re: moparacer] #1195341
03/14/12 02:48 PM
03/14/12 02:48 PM
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Chino Valley
RodStRace Offline
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Chino Valley
Big tires=no traction issues
Solid, simple chassis=consistant hook
Light weight=less strain and wear
Build toward more torque, less HP=less RPM, less wear and maintainence
solid, strong trans and converter=same performance
Gas is cheaper, but alky is more forgiving of A/F ratios and doesn't require as big a cooling system.
There are lots of 15-18 second cars that are deadly, but you say 10s.
Either a BB a-body with a good chassis and suspension and a solid big inch low RPM combo 2800-3200# or a tube car with an alky small block that weighs under 2400#. I've seen SB A bodys run 10s all day long. They require more money up front and more parts/maintenance.

Re: which is more consistent for bracket raceing [Re: RodStRace] #1195342
03/14/12 11:13 PM
03/14/12 11:13 PM
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Frostbitefalls MN (Rocky&Bullw...
gregsdart Offline
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I have found that the torqueflite isn't a consistency problem as long as you have good weight distribution and a proper setup, plus the recommended big tires. Rear gears should be a little on the tall side for two reasons. Cut launch torque some, and for consistency on the shifts. If I can make a three speed deadly at 8.90s, I can't see why it can't be done in the tens. The one area you might have a problem with is on a pro tree. I have a Griner brake, one of the best. I am on the bubble as far as car reaction time goes. So if you plan on 9.90 (.400 light)or quicker pro tree racing in the future then the glide will be a good choice.


8..603 156 mph best, 2905 lbs 549, indy 572-13, alky






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