I figured a few people on here would like to see one of the current projects that I'm helping out on.

The sway bar arms need to be bent and shortened.

Andy, is that a Speedway Eng sway bar setup. Very cool and gives you tons of choices for sway bar rates.

Why the big rectangle box instead of just a tube that the bar fits in? Will definitely be effective no matter how you configure it.

Nice setup. Probably overkill for my street car, but...........I wonder what an original big block sway bar (I've already got that) is worth compared to the price of those pieces..........

Glad you're making it work. This is what I was referring to in the "sway bar" thread that is going. I also wonder why the square/rectangle tube instead of just the round tube going through the K? You could weld a round tube in the K, and then your actual anti-roll bar would be a precise fit through the welded tube...allowing rotational movement, but limiting any distortion. Just a thought...keep posting pictures.

Andy, any pictures of the other side of the K frame.

Are the triangulated pieces added to the K frame permanent or are they there to act like a jig to keep it square during construction?

I always like reading about your projects keep the info and pictures coming.

Do you cover K frame mods like this in the B body book and by the way is it available for purchase now?

I did this to my early a k frame but I did not use rectanguler tubing if you look up firm feels road race k frame you will see what I am talking about

Yes, those are a bunch of Speedway Engr parts. The spring rate on the bar is adjusted by changing the wall thickness of the bar.

A square tube would've worked just as well but the project got started based on some rectangular tubing so that is the way it is going together. Round tube could also work but the fabrication is a little more work that way.

Very interesting! MORE pictures when you can, Thanks!!

Looking good! I was going to pick up another k-frame and do something similiar. Here is another source for sway bars . FYI
http://www.schroedersteering.com/HomePage.html

Andy, you might look at how the teraflex kit works. Very similar to what you are doing. Tim
http://www.teraflex.biz/tj-dual-rate-s-t-swaybar-forged-0-3-lift.html

I don't mean to hijack but how is it to drive a car with a really big swaybar? I have street cars with 1 1/8 bar front 3/4 rear but what's it like to run a huge front bar like that? With a much larger front bar do you go with a much larger rear bar?

If you significantly step up the front rate, you would need to step up the rear rate an equal percentage, assuming your car was balanced to begin with.

However, with tubular bars the rates are slightly different as it is contigent upon wall thickness. A 1.25 or 1.38 tube bar will have a similar rate to a 1.125 solid bar. The advantage in going with the tubular style is you can reduce weight considerably without giving up rates.

The size of the bar is just one factor. The arm length also plays a major role in determining the actual wheel rate. A big bar with long arms isn't any stiffer than a smaller bar with short arms. Another factor is where the bar hits the LCA.

On some cars you need a huge bar just to get a little bit of a wheel rate because the bar has long arms that hit the LCA in the middle rather than the end.

If you do the design correctly you can have a lightweight system that provides plenty of roll control. Some of the factory designs are better than others, but none of them were designed to be lightweight and adjustable.

Andy,

If I understand it correctly a 70 sway bar is effectively stiffer than a 69 bar with the same diameter? The 70 runs through the K-member and has shorter arms than the 69 which runs in front of the K-member..

Could be, but the mounting points on the LCA are different so I'd say the answer isn't obvious. A little bit of time with a tape measure and a calculator would provide the answer.