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Re: 4-Speed Install, Muscle or Jack [Re: Crazy68Dart] #1182259
02/23/12 09:14 PM
02/23/12 09:14 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,788
Greer, SC
TooMany62s Offline
top fuel
TooMany62s  Offline
top fuel

Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,788
Greer, SC
Quote:

Quote:

And after you get the jack from Harbor freight you can get one of their $9.99 furniture dollies, add a a 2 x 4 and a 4 x 4 and use it to install the k-frame, engine and trans from the bottom. I have done my challenger and my brother's 67 dart this way and it worked really slick...




The way the factory intended.

I have thought about doing it this way, what is your process? You have most of the suspension removed? I thought I would have issues getting the body back down at the correct height to get the K frame bolts started.

What did you use as a lift point on the body?




The way the factory intended? Why doesn't the factory shop manual say to pull it out the bottom?

Re: 4-Speed Install, Muscle or Jack [Re: Crazy68Dart] #1182260
02/24/12 01:11 PM
02/24/12 01:11 PM
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 828
KS
M
MoparKansas Offline
super stock
MoparKansas  Offline
super stock
M

Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 828
KS
The 4 x 4 and the 2 x 4 got the K frame and engine to nearly the exact proper height. I also wanted an edge to jack on with the 2 x 4 in case I needed adjustment (dolly is too low to get a jack under, but neither car I did needed it. Of course the trans jack makes it easy to adjust height in the back. On my challenger I ran a 3 x 3 wood piece under the frame rails and hooked a tow strap to it and in my brothers dart there were holes in the frame rail that we put the straps hooks to.

I didnt get a good pic down low on that shot, but it has all of the suspension on with the exception of torsion bars which are sitting in the car. I did my challenger all by myself just starting the engine hoist down very very slowly and moving things as needed. Main thing to watch was upper a-arms, steering box on drivers side and valve cover clearance on the blower motor on passengers side of the dart. Also if you run some type of bar across the engine bay under the frame rails to hook the hoist to make sure the k frame will clear it in the front. I had no room on my Challenger, but on the dart with the holes in the rails it was a piece of cake. 71 T/A had some brackets made to bolt into the bumper bracket holes that he used when he did his car if I remember right.

My bother had some larger sheet metal valve covers on the dart which made that pretty tight putting the 383 in. When dropping from the top it is pretty easy to get the motor swinging and dinging something, and it seemed much less likely with the hoist letting the body down slowly. I don't have the dolly at my house right now or I'd take a pic. I actually welded up a big t thing like others have shown, but it was too big to store and I gave it away when I moved and lost my 40 x 84 shop. It will work with either manual (Challenger) or auto (Dart) and the added benefit is that you don't try and line up the trans input shaft or tighten torque converter bolts or trans to engine bolts under the car asthe trans and engine are already bolted together.

The combo of the trans jack and the furniture dolly made it easier to split and store (also lighter) and I can use the furniture dolly for other stuff if I want to. Sorry for so few pics, but I get to working and forget to take them. It was really easy by myself, but I would suggest a helper if you have one.

Last edited by MoparKansas; 02/28/12 01:45 PM.
Re: 4-Speed Install, Muscle or Jack [Re: Crazy68Dart] #1182261
02/25/12 05:32 PM
02/25/12 05:32 PM
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,688
Marlboro, NY, USA
R
Rick_Ehrenberg Offline
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Rick_Ehrenberg  Offline
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R

Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,688
Marlboro, NY, USA
Quote:

Quote:

And after you get the jack from Harbor freight you can get one of their $9.99 furniture dollies, add a a 2 x 4 and a 4 x 4 and use it to install the k-frame, engine and trans from the bottom. I have done my challenger and my brother's 67 dart this way and it worked really slick...




The way the factory intended.

I have thought about doing it this way, what is your process? You have most of the suspension removed? I thought I would have issues getting the body back down at the correct height to get the K frame bolts started.

What did you use as a lift point on the body?



Last few times I was lucky enough to have a lift. But in the past, I have done it many times with an engine crane and chain to the 2 center bumper bolts!

Check the video - no scratches, no cursing, no hassles. Pie! (2 long studs, ground to a bull nose, in 2 diag.-opp K-member bolt holes in rails).

Body Drop

Steering, headers, tranny, engine harness, etc. all preassembled. I'll never drop an engine in from the top again. Never. Later projects, I had all the suspension on, too - UCA's dangling, as at the ass'y plant.

Rick

Re: 4-Speed Install, Muscle or Jack [Re: Crazy68Dart] #1182262
02/25/12 11:44 PM
02/25/12 11:44 PM
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 10,551
Rittman Ohio
fourgearsavoy Offline
I Live Here
fourgearsavoy  Offline
I Live Here

Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 10,551
Rittman Ohio
Here is a pic from Gorski's thread about installing a four speed in a weekend.
I was guiding the input through the T.O. bearing while a few other members provided the muscle
Gus


64 Plymouth Savoy
493 Indy EZ's by Nick at Compu-Flow
5-Speed Richmond faceplate Liberty box
Dana 60
Re: 4-Speed Install, Muscle or Jack [Re: Rick_Ehrenberg] #1182263
02/25/12 11:54 PM
02/25/12 11:54 PM
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 18,493
Granite Bay CA
Kern Dog Offline
Striving for excellence
Kern Dog  Offline
Striving for excellence

Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 18,493
Granite Bay CA
Quote:



Check the video - no scratches, no cursing, no hassles. Pie! (2 long studs, ground to a bull nose, in 2 diag.-opp K-member bolt holes in rails).

Body Drop

Rick




I've read this guys articles for years, but this is the first time that I have heard him SPEAK! He sounds different than I thought he would. I forgot that he is from New York!

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