What do you guys prefer? Engine is out of the car so I am going to do a mock-up, but when you are under the car, what do you prefer?

Thanks.

I've done auto trans on my back way back.. muuuuuchhhh easier w/ a jack. I'd use a jack.

... and in my case safer. I'm not that big of a guy. This is a cast iron 4-speed.

I was looking at the jack adapters that you remove the pad off a standard jack and replace with a transmission adapter. There is one that seems adjustable which might work. Need to look around some more.

I know a former racer that lost one eye putiing a trans in on his back , One slip was all it took

I bought one of these cheapies from Harbor Freight. I've used it for 833's five or six times. Much easier than muscle especially if your old, like me.

I've always rassled them in and out by hand, but I sure would like one of them jacks.

A jack for sure. I have never muscled one in on back, and never will. I have a old floor trans jack that has a large flat pad, but as stated, the way the case is, it just wants to flop around. I would build a simple adapter just for the 833'2 because of this. I have done them on a regular floor jack too, but its a little unnerving when it get some height and I have had them fall off before---thus me reasoning for building a simple and specific adapter. I bet it would cost less than $20 in materials to make.

Gus, you've always got my back, I appreciate it. I'll let you know.

I was going to go over to HF and see what they have. I hate supporting that place... but all this stuff is imported, so I guess I'll avoid the mark-up.

For, you guys that made the custom adapters? I was thinking about fabbing a small cradle of some sort that followed the contours of the case. Is this how you did yours, or you have brackets, etc. that use some existing holes in the case?

Thanks!

I've used the Harbor Freight one posted above for years - I also have used it to lift heavier things than a trans - no issue's.

I'll take any excuse to pull the welder out!
I made a jig for the 833 trans, one each for a 727 and 904, another for the 8 3/4 chunk.....
The A/T jigs have a flat plate with 4 steel tubes. I put long bolts through the tubes into the trans case so the jack clears ANY trans pan. I also made a jig for the transfer case in my Trail Duster.
Finally, I made one countoured to the A body k member since I was concerned that the puny original jack pad often seems close to slipping off.

Made a "holder" out of wood. Pretty easy to do.

Once it's made and holds the trans well enough.

I put it all together and balance the trans on the jack. Draw a circle around the pad area, take it off and create a low spot in the wood platform that keeps the thing from sliding off the jack.

Couple of straps if you desire and your done.

While doing a clutch job on my former 70 Challenger R/T,I had an 833 fall off the floor jack and crush my right arm. I got so damn mad,I picked up the tranny and threw it in!

When I was younger I used to always use my muscles, then after having one of those heavy bastards fall and bend an input shaft, I started using a jack, I also made a fixture to cradle the 833. works very well.

Kasey

833, I've never worked with, but hear they are heavy!! I'd use a jack.

727, I used a jack.

T-56, I slid under the truck, tipped the gearbox up and slid myself under it, then pulled it up onto my chest, then I benchpressed the gearbox up into the bell housing and into position. it was very easy, but that gearbox even though it's big, only weighs about 70-75 lbs. I probably push more weight than that when I'm doing a pushup, and for my annual fitness test I have to knock out about 60 in a minute


I did my NV3500 the same way, it's about the same as the T-56 as far as weight, but has that big ole bell housing cast into the case...actually made it easier. gave a nice solid "handle" to grab it and secure the trans with a good grip to angle and wiggle it into position through the clutch.


never thought about losing an eye doing it, but ouch, and yea, I could see that happening. I never pushed up though, unless I had a very firm grip on the gearbox first, and felt like I could maneuver it around as needed.

as I get older though, and not as strong...I may find myself suing hydraulics more and more

It's not lifting it that's hard, it's lining it all up and sliding it home. I always use the plastic alignment tool but it isn't always so easy to get the box to slide home. Sometimes an assistant spinning a driveshaft in there seems to help the splines mesh.

The last time I did one was in my /6 '87 D150. I ended up using allthread dowels in the top two holes of the bell, got it started and put nuts on so it couldnt fall, then carefully slid it into place. I had planned to replace them with bolts after it went in, but the allthread is still in there with nuts on it. Should hold up to the massive torque and horsepower of my 1987 225cid! I did use the right bolts for the bottom two bolts.

I put threaded studs in the bellhousing studs to mount the transmission in all cars I work on. Its not for the increased clamping force, but instead for the ability to line up the trans to slide into place. It really helps!